Arts and Humanities Commons^™

Exploring Patttern In "Kashmir" And "Paisley" Shawls, Arlene C. Cooper

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Using six extraordinary shawls from the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, this presentation will explore the relationship bwtween how a shawl is made and the symmetry system used in its patterning, and briefly consider the terminology which might best express these relationships. Certain symmetry systems and styles of shawl patterning may evolve from the capabilities of particular looms. For instance, weaving on a basic Indian hand loom with the characteristic Indian shawl weave, 2/2 double-interlocked twill, is a very slow process, which encourages simple symmetry: a motif repeating exactly across the width of a textile, or straight repeat. …

Contents And Introduction

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

CREATING TEXTILES: Makers, Methods and Markets

Proceedings of the

Sixth Biennial Symposium

of the Textile Society of America, Inc.

New York, New York

1998

The papers are unedited and reproduced as submitted. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the author. Students and researchers wishing to cite specific authors are encouraged to contact those individuals, as many of these papers represent work in progress, or work which has been committed for publication elsewhere.

The Textile Society of America, Inc. provides a forum for the exchange and dissemination of …

The American Coach Lace Industry, Nancy Britton

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Coach lace is a trim used almost exclusively in the upholstery of carriages and coaches. The names "coach lace" or "livery lace" were used consistently throughout its manufacture. The robust looped wool pile created by a supplementary warp, was a variation of velvet similar to Brussels carpeting and makes this trim easily identifiable.

This paper examines the manufacturing of American coach lace from the mid- 18th century until its demise in the 1930's. Coach lace is a textile little recognized today. The prevalence and context within which it existed and how coach lace adapted to new forms of transportation, …

Tibeb, Art Of The Weaver In Addis Ababa Today, Jannes Waples Gibson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Tibeb in this presentation refers to the decoration or pattern which is handwoven with supplementary weft into the border of the shamma (or shemma) worn by women and men in Ethiopia and Eritrea. The shamma traditionally was worn by the Christian populations of the northern and central highlands. Today one can find cloth with the woven tibeb in most markets. There is no imported textile sold in Ethiopia today that takes the place of these valued textiles. Ethiopian artist Maitre Afewerk Tekle has captured the special feeling among Ethiopians for the fine cotton shamma in his painting "Mother Ethiopia" …

Recuperating A Wealth Of Women's Weavings In The Valleys Of Chuquisaca, Bolivia, Kevin Healy, Veronica Cereceda

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textile arts in the Andean region have long been experiencing a decline. The success of the Jalq'a textiles program, growing over the last ten years in southern Bolivia, however, demonstrates a possible alternative path for Andean textile arts.

For various reasons, in the 1970s, the beautiful and complex textiles that were the emblem of the Jalq'a communities were disappearing. The fleece spun by hand was replaced by acrylic thread, much of the arts of spinning and dyeing were lost, and with those, went the chromatic harmonies as well. The beautiful animals that had defined the Jalq'a style (often called Potolo) …

Technological Development In Late Saxon Textile Production: Its Relationship To An Emerging Market Economy And Changes In Society, Philippa A. Henry

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

The process of change from domestic textile production in early Anglo-Saxon England (5th - mid-7th century) to the more commercially based, organised industry of the late Saxon period (late 9th - 11th century) is a long and complex one. These changes form a vital part of the continuum which reached its zenith in the late Medieval period when the wool and textile industry created much of the wealth of England.

The importance of this industry in late Medieval England is well documented. In contrast, its genesis in the late Saxon period has received little attention. Although documentary sources are …

Textile Traditions Of Ausangate. Peru And Indigenous Strategies For Dealing With Tourism And The Cuzco Market, Andrea M. Heckman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Contemporary Andean weavers are the descendants of a textile heritage dating from the earliest known plant fiver baskets found in the dry Gitarrero Cave in the Central Cordillera Blanca of Peru. carbon-dated 8.600 B.C. Luis Lumvreras. a well-known Peruvian scholar. said about Andean textiles. "Without a doubt. the art and manufacture of textiles constitute one of the most significant achievements of the ancient peoples of Peru."

In this paper. I will present briefly how Quechua cosmology or world view is taught. reinforced and retained through the continued use of traditional Andean textiles. Next. I will show through ethnographic data how …

Meeting The Needs Of Manufacturers: The Education Of Silk Designers In Eighteenth Century Lyons, Lesley Ellis Miller

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Theories about the best education for craftsmen and designers preoccupied a number of French thinkers during the Enlightenment: they included several notable inhabitants of Lyons, a city which depended for its reputation on the manufacturing of patterned silks. After several years of debate, the initiatives of these individuals led, in 1756, to the founding of a school of drawing (ecole gratuite de dessin), which received Royal approval the following year, and direct central government funding from 1780. The founders and administrators of the school claimed that they were targeting future silk designers to whom they offered tuition in …

Electronic Textiles: Hacking The Museum, Barbara Layne

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The subject of my presentation, Electronic Textiles: Hacking the Museum, is a project I orchestrated between the Marsil Museum of Textiles in St. Lambert, Quebec and the Glass Box Gallery at Salford University near Manchester, England. The purpose was to manipulate images of textile objects as a way to reconsider the practice of collecting, question the system of classification (and thereby the authority of the museum), and open up new possibilities for the collected object. The Marsil is the only museum in Quebec whose mandate is exclusively dedicated to textiles. Its catalogue system catagorizes the collection according to function …

Hogushi And Heiyo: Methods Of Creating Painterly Images In Woven Textiles, Kazuo Mutoh

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Proto-Meisen

The term meisen generally refers to plain-weave silk cloth patterned with woven (not printed) stripes or kasuri and made into kimono, haori, and nen'neko (literally 'jacket sleeper, " a padded coat worn during the autumn and winter months for carrying babies on the back). In the first half ofthe twentieth century, almost all Japanese women were familiar with meisen- as ordinary, everyday wear for the upper and middle classes and as dress-up kimono for working- class and country women. In the twenty four years between 1913 and 1937, according to the census, 200 million bolts …

"Scutulis Dividere Gallia": Weaving On Tablets In Western Europe, Carolyn Priest-Dorman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Tablet weaving is a structurally intricate, flexible art indigenous to pre-industrial Europe and northwest Asia. It has been used to reinforce the borders of woven textiles as well as to create sturdy, often decorative bands used as strapping, belts, a variety of garment trimmings, and ecclesiastical vestments. To some extent the history of tablet weaving can be correlated with the history of costume.

There are no known early written sources describing how to tablet weave, although a few sources make reference to an art which may be tablet weaving. Historical depictions of tablet weaving are few, and most are fraught …

Between The Field And The Museum: The Benedict Collection Of Bagobo Abaca Ikat Textiles, Cherubim A. Quizon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Any researcher working on vintage textiles and clothing from the Philippines collected during the early years of the American colonial period is likely to encounter the following informative catalogue entries: "From headhunters," or "From chiefs attire." Since the Bagobo people of southern Mindanao were also once famous for the practice of human sacrifice, the cloth, weaponry and ornament of these people were of high anecdotal value for collectors.

By contrast, a typical entry in the Bagobo textile collection of Laura Watson Benedict in this museum, the American Museum of Natural History (AMNH), circa 1910 reads: "Woven by Antap [who specializes …

Starlets And Masters: Meisen Posters Published By The Textile Makers, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A group of more than a dozen original paintings of "kimono beauties" or bijinga, literally "picture of a beauty," is in the collection of the Ashikaga Museum of Modem Art, Ashikaga, Tochigi Prefecture. They were painted by well-respected master painters between 1920s and 1930s, commissioned by the Ashikaga Meisen Weavers Association to be reproduced in postcards and posters to promote their products, Ashikaga meisen.

Another group of large posters of movie actress "beauties" wearing meisen kimonos is in the collection of Shimojo Koichiro, a former meisen dealer/producer, now a drapery manufacturer in lsesaki, Gunma Prefecture. These posters were …

Exploring Pattern In Woven Design: A Comparison Of Two Seventeenth Century Italian Textiles, Melinda Watt

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores the differences in both pattern and technical features between two similar woven silk textiles from the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The two textiles are seventeenth century Italian woven silks. They have in common an identical brocaded pattern consisting of four floral motifs, two are large and two are small. It is the differences between the two textiles that provoke comparison, more than do their similarities. First, the ground colors are different, as are the ground weaves. Second, the individual brocaded motifs, while identical in detail, are a mirror reflection from one textile to the …

The Grape And The Vine: A Motif In Contemporary Jewish Textiles, Reba Wulkan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Grapes and grapevines are prominent motifs in the vast range of Jewish art dating back to Antiquity. In recent decades, there has been growing interest in creating contemporary Jewish ceremonial textiles for the home and synagogue, as well as textile art on Jewish themes. The grape and vine motif have often been included in these new works.

A brief survey of Jewish sources:

Grapes and wine are highly important symbols in Jewish tradition and ritual and date back to the 1st century. A magnificent golden vine that hung over the inner portal of the Second Temple was described by Josephus …

The Rewritten Bible At Qumran, Sidnie White Crawford

Department of Classics and Religious Studies: Faculty Publications

Since the discovery of the scrolls from the Qumran caves in the late 1940s and early-to-mid 50s, the process of sorting, identifying, and editing the fragmentary manuscripts has occupied the attention of scholars. Now, as that period in the history of scrolls scholarship draws to a close, more and more attention has turned to the contents of the texts from the eleven caves in the vicinity of Khirbet Qumran as a collection. Several things may be said about this collection. First, the majority of the texts are written in Hebrew, thus pointing to Hebrew as a living language (at least …

William Ockham And Trope Nominalism, Stephen E. Lahey

Department of Classics and Religious Studies: Faculty Publications

Can we take a medieval metaphysician out of his scholastic robes and force him into a metaphysical apparatus as seemingly foreign to him as a tuxedo might be? I believe that the terminological and conceptual differences that appear to prevent this can be overcome in many cases, and that one case most amenable to this project is the medieval problem of universals. After all, the problem for the medieval is, at base, the same as it is for contemporary philosophers, as for Plato: How do we account, ontologically, for many tokens of the same type? If one object has the …

The Kingdom, The Power, & The Glory: The Millennial Impulse In Early American Literature: General Introduction, Reiner Smolinski , Editor

Electronic Texts in American Studies

This anthology, The Kingdom, The Power, & The Glory: The Millennial Impulse in Early American Literature, seeks to redress some of the problems of access to texts of early American literature by providing a thematic approach to one of colonial America’s most trenchant ideologies: the rising glory of America. The selections included represent a wide spread of authors and texts that discuss America’s place in the millenarian cosmologies from the colonial to the Federalist period (c. 1600-1800). The texts address such issues as the great migration, the transformation of the howling wilderness into an agricultural Eden, the jeremiad, King Philip’s …

The Kingdom, The Power, & The Glory: The Millennial Impulse In Early American Literature -- Questions For Discussions, Research, And Writing, Reiner Smolinski , Editor

Electronic Texts in American Studies

The following questions are designed to help each student focus on crucial issues in each text during the initial reading process, stimulate class discussion, and suggest essay topics for term papers. For the most part, the answers to these questions require no other reading than the General Introduction and close analysis of the selections themselves. Nevertheless, each set of question is followed by a brief list of secondary sources taken from the Selected Bibliography to accommodate the documentation of research papers. The blank spaces below each question allow for brief written responses and brainstorming exercises to outline research papers.

Obituary- Ezell

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

We are sad to report the death on February 23rd. of Dr. Ezell at his home in Vermont. He had been one of our most supportive and active members. In the early 1970's a literary lady wrote a somewhat patronising letter to the Times Literary Supplement about the Fellowship's efforts to raise funds for a memorial stone to George Eliot in Westminster Abbey. It was read in the United States by Dr. Ezell. He felt so strongly about the dismissive tone of the letter that he immediately became a life member of the Fellowship, enrolled some of his patients, appealed …

The Idea Of An English Gentleman: Mr. Knightley And Arthur Donnithorne, David Ball

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

My modest purpose in this essay is to develop the interesting suggestion of Ellen Moers in Literary Women that George Eliot's inspiration to write Adam Bede may well have lain in her attentive reading of Emma: that Adam Bede himself is the heroic and detailed portrait of Robert Martin that Emma has no place for. George Eliot's father, Robert Evans, was a mari similar to Robert Martin and Adam Bede, in both status and ability, and the creation of Adam is Eliot's first fictional tribute to him. Ellen Moers also briefly compares Harriet Smith and Hetty Sorrel as sharing 'the …

The George Eliot Review: Journal Of The George Eliot Fellowship 1998 No. 29, Beryl Gray, John Rignall

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

CONTENTS

Notes on Contributors ...................................................................................... 5

REPORTS Kathleen Adams: Annual Report 1997 ........................................... 7

Shoshana Milgram Knapp: American Branch Report.................................... 14

ADDRESSES Ruth Harris: Address at the wreath-laying in the George Eliot Memorial Garden, 15 June 1997 ................................................. 15

Carol A. Martin: Address at the wreath-laying in Westminster Abbey, 21 June 1997 .......................................................................... 18

Gillian Beer: The Twenty-Sixth George Eliot Memorial Lecture, 11 October 1997................................................ 24

Geoffrey Beevers: The Toast to the Immortal Memory: George Eliot Birthday Luncheon, 23 November 1997........................................ .30

ARTICLES David Malcolm: 'Grand and Vague': Why is Daniel Deronda about the Jews? (Prize-winning Essay)................................................................................ .33

David Bell: …

Wordsworth And The Victorians, Stephen Gill

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

Words worth belongs to a generation that re-invented posterity as the true judge of artistic worth, a truth beyond fashion and faction, the eternal justification of a misunderstood life. His exact contemporary Holderlin asked 'Wozu Dichter in diirftiger Zeit, meaning, among other things, why be a poet in an age that does not know how to value poetry? Romantic poets invested very heavily in the future, and for that reason, leaving aside others, their reception makes a fascinating study, full of veneration, misprision, irony, bathos, creative imitation and unconscious symbiosis.

Stephen Gill's book IS about both the Victorianization of Words …

Baraba Leigh-Smith Bodichon: Feminist, Artist And Rebel, Pam Hirsch

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

It is impossible not to be impressed by Barbara Leigh-Smith Bodichon. Her life is interesting for its diversity, rather than for any single accomplishment, and therefore she has posed a challenge for biographers. Most accounts of Bodichon, such as Sheila Hemstein's A Mid- Victorian Feminist: Barbara Leigh Smith Bodichon (1985) and Candida Ann Lacey's collection, Barbara Bodichon and the Langham Place Group (1987), have focused on her activities as a social reformer. The first complete biography since Hester Burton's Barbara Bodichon, 1827- 1891 (1949), is Pam Hirsch's Barbara Leigh Smith Bodichon: Feminist, Artist and Rebel. Hirsch recognizes the relative neglect …

A Note Of Daniel Deronda's Circumcision, Derek Miller

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

For the last twenty years or so critics have wondered if Daniel Deronda, the eponymous hero of George Eliot's last novel, was circumcised or not. If he was, he would scarcely have to wait for his mother's revelations to know he was a Jew. Some commentators, however, say that, for medical reasons, circumcision was not uncommon among middle class people at the time of Deronda's infancy, and he might therefore not have given much attention to the matter.

Professor John Sutherland, recently entering this lively discussion! points to the rebellion by Deronda's mother against her father's Judaism as a prime …

Gwendolen's Story From Daniel Deronda, Gabriel Woolf, Rosalind Shanks

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

In 1902, the essayist, Leslie Stephen, wrote that Daniel Deronda was 'two stories put side by side' and the 'Gwendolen Story' taken by itself was a 'masterly piece of social satire'. In his biography of George Eliot, Gordon Haight makes a general reference to 'Gwendolen's story' as part of the whole narrative of Daniel Deronda including the Jewish portion. He showed some disdain towards 'careless readers' who thought the Jewish elements could be separated from the story of Gwendolen.

George Eliot herself, writing to Barbara Bodichon, seemed displeased with readers who 'cut the book up into scraps and talk of …

American Branch Report 1997, Shoshanan Milgram Knapp

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

The eighth annual MLA dinner, a typically informal and festive occasion, was held at the Ristorante Amalfi in Toronto on Sunday, 28 December 1997. Present were Michael Ballin, Margaret Barfield, Nancy Cervetti, Connie Fulmer, Bonnie Gerard, Gabe Gerard, Shoshana Milgram Knapp, and Richard Maxwell. Shoshana conveyed greetings from Linda Robertson, the new coordinator of the American branch, and from Kathleen Adams.

Review Of Sisters In Literature: Female Sexuality In 'Antigone', 'Middlemarch', 'Howard's End' And 'Women In Love', Masako Hirai

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

While the main theme of this book is clear and easily grasped, there is an unevenness about the treatment which at times is disconcerting. Biography and critical argument sit uneasily together, some of the statements are outside the frame of current criticism, and there are some subjective and questionable assertions. Take this about the relationship between George Henry Lewes and George Eliot: 'Yet even Lewes, I think, was more superficial (sometimes even disloyal) than her nature demanded, having a journalistic rather than an academic mind, and taking a broad interest in everything. Understandably, he could not share her deepest struggle, …

The Stereotyped Edition's Title-Page Vignettes, Beryle Gray

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

On 2 November 1866, George Eliot wrote to John Blackwood approving of his proposal to publish an illustrated edition of her books. The project, she saw, was

a wise one, as likely to assist in [the books'] circulation. In the abstract I object to illustrated literature, but abstract theories of publishing can no more be carried out than abstract theories of politics.'

B1ackwood's idea developed into a plan 'to try the cheap illustrated edition of your Novels in six penny numbers of which Adam, The Mill, Scenes, Silas, and Felix would make 30, ultimately to form four volumes selling at …

'Hardy And Eliot': A Response, Toru Sasaki

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

In the last issue of the Review, Nicola Harris, in her Fellowship Prize Essay, discussed the different attitudes of Hardy and George Eliot to 'moral perception'.' In the course of her argument she refers to an article of mine, published several years ago, where I dealt with the same passages that she considers. Having read her piece with great interest, I should like to make the following observations.

The reference to what I said occurs where Harris is comparing the description of Boldwood looking fixedly at the Valentine that Bathsheba has sent him (,Here the bachelor's gaze was continually fastening …