Arts and Humanities Commons^™

Caput Mass, Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

One of the most popular masses of the 15th century, surviving complete or in part in seven known English and continental sources, the Missa Caput is now thought to be the work of an unnamed English composer writing in the later 1430s or early 1440s. It is a cyclic mass whose five movements are unified both by a motto beginning and by the use of the same melody as structural cantus firmus in the tenor voice. Its name is taken from that cantus firmus, which is derived from a lengthy melisma on the word "caput" at the end of the …

Faburden, Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

A distinctive English musical technique in which a simple form of three-voice polyphony is created by the addition of two extemporized voices to a preexistent plainsong. The term may also refer to the whole complex of voices, or simply to the faburden proper, the lowest voice, from which the technique takes its name. In this technique the plainsong voice, or mean (because musically it is in the middle), is doubled at the fourth above by the treble. The bass part, or faburden, proceeds mainly at the third below the chant, singing a fifth beneath at the beginning and end, and …

Music For Holy Week And Easter, Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

The later medieval church celebrated Holy Week and Easter with many unique liturgical forms and ceremonies, often of an intrinsically dramatic character. These included major processions on Palm Sunday, Maundy Thursday, Holy Saturday, and Easter Sunday; the singing of the passions during mass as the New Testament Gospel on Palm Sunday (St. Matthew Passion), Wednesday (St. Luke Passion), and Good Friday (St. John Passion); and in many locales in northern France and England, the performance of two Latin liturgical dramas—the Visitatio sepulchre performed at the end of Matins on Easter Sunday morning, and the Officium peregrinorum, performed at Vespers that …

Godric's Songs, Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

Three monophonic religious songs of the mid-12th century ("Sainte marie viergene," "Kirieleison: Crist and sainte marie," and "Sainte Nicholas Godes druth") that are the earliest English-language lyrics to survive with their melodies; found in a number of manuscript sources, including three with music, they are also known as Godric's Hymns. Their composer, St. Godric (ca. 1070/80–1170), wrote them some time after he retired to a hermitage at Finchale, north of Durham, following a career as a merchant trader and ship's captain. Godric's life as a hermit was one of ascetic hardship, punctuated by visions in which the songs were taught …

Dunstable, John (Ca. 1395–1453), Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

Composer, mathematician, and astronomer. He is the author of over 70 surviving works, including music for masses, offices, Marian devotions, isorhythmic motets, and secular songs. Dunstable (or Dunstaple) stands at the head of an influential group of English composers whose music, beginning in the later 1420s and 1430s, circulated on the Continent, where it had an immense stylistic impact. Fifteenth-century musical commentators recognized Dunstable's importance, and he held a high posthumous reputation for many subsequent generations.

Of Dunstable's biography we know little. The paucity of documentation seems to be due to a career that kept him out of the records …

"The Principle Of Punishment Is A Categorical Imperative", Nelson T. Potter Jr.

Department of Philosophy: Faculty Publications

There has been a considerable renaissance in retributivism as a theory of the justification of punishment in the second half of this century. Retributivism is often defended as if it were a particularly hardy moral intuition, a basic free-standing moral principle that is underivable from any broader theory or set of principles. In this vein it is often "supported" through the presentation of outrageous and horribly cruel crimes, especially against persons, particularly murder, in order to elicit what may be thought to be the natural and appropriate emotional response, a response of anger, indignation, and desire for retribution. Under such …

Review Of Eschatology, Messianism, And The Dead Sea Scrolls, Edited By Craig A. Evans And Peter W. Flint, Sidnie White Crawford

Department of Classics and Religious Studies: Faculty Publications

Eschatology, Messianism, and the Dead Sea Scrolls is the first volume of a new series, Studies in the Dead Sea Scrolls and Related Literature, being published under the auspices of the Dead Sea Scrolls Institute at Trinity Western University in British Columbia. The volume is a collection of eight essays presented at the first public Symposium of the Dead Sea Scrolls Institute on September 30, 1995; it also contains an introduction by the editors Evans and Flint, the transcript of a panel discussion and a select bibliography. The essays are aimed at a public, nonspecialist audience, and thus provide …

Review Of Yolanda Plumley, The Grammar Of 14th Century Melody: Tonal Organization And Compositional Process In The Chansons Of Guillaume De Machaut And The Ars Subtilior., Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

This book is a revised and retitled version of a doctoral thesis presented to Exeter University in 1991. It appears in the Garland series, Outstanding Dissertations in Music from British Universities. In reviewing it I must acknowledge that I am not a disinterested party. Work of my own from the mid-1980s, which Dr Plumley first encountered in the form of a conference paper read at Southampton University in 1987, and which in modified guise was only just recently published ('Signature-systems and tonal types in the fourteenth-century French chanson', Plainsong and Medieval Music 4/2 (1995), pp. 117-47), forms a central point …

Lady Chapel, Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

A distinctive formal feature of English Gothic church architecture; provision of a Lady Chapel was a central objective of the campaigns of choir remodeling and eastern extension that altered the floorplans of most English cathedrals and abbey churches from the later 12th through the 14th century. The Lady Chapel, a large hall church of roughly the same dimensions as the choir itself, was most frequently located in a rectangular space thrusting eastward from the east end of the choir. In churches laid out like Salisbury this was a low, projecting space emerging from the main mass of the building by …

Granton: A Parable Of Change, Quentin Faulkner

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

The mass media abound with tales of fundamental change in the world of classical music. A New York Times article on the crisis in the classical compact disc (CD) industry reports that, after a transient rise in sales during the 1980s, classical CDs' market share dropped to an all-time low of 2.9 percent. There are also frequent reports of funding woes that have reduced and, in some instances, put an end to entire orchestras. A string of articles in the Wall Street Journal and other newspapers has chronicled the seismic shift from classical to mass-media-oriented music in churches, where a …

Harley 978, Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

A well-known manuscript from Reading Abbey (BL Harley 978), compiled sometime in the period 1245–65, probably at the behest of a single individual. Its contents are eclectic and reflective of wide intellectual interests and sources, suggesting a university connection. Famous principally because it contains the canon "Sumer is icumen in," Harley 978 also possesses the unique text of the "Song of Lewes" (Calamo velociter), the best English collection of goliardic verse, the largest surviving collection of the fables and lais of Marie de France, an index to the extensive contents of an otherwise lost book of polyphony, and …

Into The Landscape, Gegory S. Walter

School of Art, Art History, and Design: Theses and Student Creative Work

"I walked into the landscape as with a Bible in my hand." -John Constable

This thesis project is, in its simplest terms, a study of the landscape. More specifically, it is a study of the spring and summer landscape of certain parts of the Northern Central United States. I have long held a personal fondness for this region, and this study has allowed me to delve deeper into the visual aspects of these places. The vivid, brilliant colors of the Northern landscape which come alive in the weeks following the long and often harsh winter are the constant reminder of …

Painting And Being: A Meditation On Perception, Myron N. Moore

School of Art, Art History, and Design: Theses and Student Creative Work

The art of painting, as I practice it, is analogous to reevaluating tradition: the purpose being not to determine what is new but to determine anew what is truly relevant. The history of art affects my perception and that which I see celebrates what I find relevant to the present. I have always worked from direct observation. In an art climate that has moved toward conceptual concerns, my response is to explore the perceptual paradigm of western art, without invalidating its tradition. My paintings are a direct response to my environment. In making such work I communicate the significance of …

Angelas Ad Virginem, Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

A devotional Latin strophic song of the first half of the 13th century in five stanzas on the Annunciation of Mary. There is memorable testimony to its widespread popularity and longevity in England in a passage from the Miller's Tale introducing Chaucer’s poor Oxford scholar “hende Nicholas,” who sings Angelus in his lodging to the accompaniment of his psaltery:

And al above ther lay a gay sautrie,
On which he made a-nyghtes melodie
So swetely that all the chambre rong;
And Angelas ad virginem he song. (MilT 3213-16)

Most sources and references to Angelus ad virginem are insular (complete report …

Exceptional Textiles For Today's Interiors Weaving Our Way Through The Design Community's Exclusive Showrooms, Mia Backman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This site seminar will begin with an introduction to the role of designer showrooms and their significance to the interior design community. Following this brief introduction, we will visit two textile showrooms: Donghia and Old World Weavers. These innovative showrooms were chosen for their diversity, leadership, and distinctive market positions. Donghia is known internationally for their creative weave structures that interpret classic forms into fresh modern designs. These light catching textiles are truly the antiques of the future. Old World Weavers industry expertise in the area of recreating historic textile documents has opened the doors to such restoration projects as …

Analyzing Patterns In Oriental Carpets: Through Symmetry To The Mind Of The Maker, Carol Bier

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Typically in Oriental carpets, many patterns combine to make the whole. Within an oblong field there is often an overall repeat pattern arbitrarily cut off by borders. Field patterns cover the plane, while border patterns are linear. Patterning -- and color -- in Oriental carpets is carried by the pile (supplementary weft-wrapping) that projects from the surface of a plain weave foundation.

If we take as our definition of pattern the systematic repetition of a unit, distinctions become clear between designs and patterns. While the possibilities for designs are limitless (within the constraints of a medium), the possibilities for repeating …

Marion Dorn: The American Years, Whitney Blausen

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Marion Dom, (1896-1964) was an American-born designer of both printed and woven furnishing fabrics and of rugs and carpets. Dorothy Todd, writing about Dom in 1932 for the Architectural Review, called her the "architect of floors".

Like many of her contemporaries, Dom's earliest textiles were batiks. She learned to design for industry by participating in the textile contests and classes championed by M.D.C. Crawford and sponsored, in part, by the trade paper Women's Wear.

In 1923 Dom emigrated to England, where she designed on a regular basis for such firms as Warner & Sons and the Wilton Royal Carpet …

The Weft-Twined Structures Of Cloaks Of The New Zealand Maori, Margery Blackman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Maori cloak

After the settlement of New Zealand in about 1200 AD, Maori women adapted wefttwining techniques for constructing wann clothing suited to the cooler climate of their new habitat. The principal garment was the cloak made with yarns prepared by working and twisting the long fibres extracted from the sword-like leaves of the indigenous plant Phormium tenax, commonly known as New Zealand flax.

The historical evolution of the Maori cloak is largely unknown as only a few fragments and one cloak found in a burial cave are known to be earlier than the cloaks collected by Captain …

Brokers Of Textile Traditions: The Case Of The Shopkeepers In Turkey, Marlene Breu, Ronald Marchese

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Over the course of the past twenty-five years a cultural transformation has taken place in the Turkish Republic. Overshadowed in more recent years by the political confrontations between secularists and Islamists, an unchecked inflationary spiral that has devalued the national currency, and the social upheavals associated with economic disparity, this cultural transformation has garnished little attention from the more traditionally defined scholarship on the modern Middle East. Revolutionary in nature, it is the result of several factors, among them socio-economic changes brought about by a shift in world markets and the liberalization of the Turkish economy. It is responsible for …

Ilonka Karasz: Making Modern, Ashley Brown

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Born in Hungary and "discovered" in New York's Greenwich Village, Ilonka Karasz (1896-1981) brought a unique and remarkable talent to early American modem textile design. Though little known today, her contemporaries described her as "one of the best designers of modem textiles," and noted the "widespread influence among textile manufacturers" of her modem textile designs. Her exploration of textile design from 1915 to 1935 contributed to an exciting time in the history of American textiles when American manufacturers used American designs, experimented with new uses for textiles, and developed new textile materials. Karasz's textile designs from the 1910s reveal her …

A Look Inside And Behind Central Asian Ikats, Annie Carlano

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The recent publications and exhibitions about Central Asian ikats have been highJy acclaimed projects in both their scholarly and their interpretive excellence. Extensive information about the ikats is now available. But while much of the history of these silk luxury items is known, much less has been written about the "flip side" of the story, the original or indigenous linings of the robes and backings of the wall hangings. There are two types of such textiles. The earliest extant fabrics are the woodblock printed chit type which have been well researched. This presentation will focus on the other, more esoteric, …

Between Tradition And Modernity: Textile Design Education In Lyons At The Beginning Of The 20th Century, Florence Charpigny

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

With regard to textile design in general, and Lyonnais designers in particular, there is still no global synthesis and very little detailed research available. Yet, some studies were published in Lyon, at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, by local historians with family, professional and cultural links with the silk manufactures. It is not coincidence that their work occurred at this period: at the end of the 19th century, the Lyonnais silk industry went through a series of serious economic and structural crises. The change begun at the beginning of the 19th century with the …

The Mystery Of The Eisenhower Toile, Cindy Cook

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Eisenhower toile is a twentieth-century textile with a story to tell-through its motifs and its creators. The motifs in this toile represent the story of Dwight D. Eisenhower's life. The creation of the Eisenhower toile is a story of mystery and intrigue involving a famous American couple, Dwight and Mamie Eisenhower; a prominent interior designer, Elisabeth Draper; a prestigious textile company, F. Schumacher & Co.; and a mystery designer.

The Eisenhower toile is a printed cotton produced by F. Schumacher & Co. of New York from 1956 to 1960. Schumacher produced the 36" wide fabric with a 36" repeat …

An Early Seventeenth-Century Japanese Textile In The Metropolitan Museum Of Art, Joyce Denney

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

As a site seminar at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a rare early seventeenth-century Japanese robe (kosode) in the Museum's collection (see ill.) was examined in depth. The sumptuous complexity of the textile from which the robe was made was analyzed, with emphasis on the textile's makers and their methods as well as the markets of the period.

The ground fabric, a white float-patterned plain-weave silk, was probably produced in China. During this period Chinese silk was highly prized in Japan; nevertheless, this imported cloth was then highly embellished. The textile was resist-dyed in irregularly bordered bands that …

The "New Deal" Child Artist: Textiles From The Educational Alliance Art School, Joanne Dolan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

Progressive educational theories, many which had their roots in the late nineteenth century, were put to the test as a result of the Federal Art Project initiative. A small collection of printed textiles at the Museum at FIT produced during the second half of the nineteen-thirties at the Educational Alliance Art School in New York City reflect philosophies relevant to the period of the New Deal. The textiles represent and illustrate major social forces in America: the late nineteenth century settlement house providing services such as language, citizenship, and skills training; Roosevelt's New Deal and the federal relief efforts …

Transitions And Expansion: The Haskell Silk Company's· Switch From Thread Manufacture To The Production Of Yard Goods, 1880-1882, Jacqueline Field

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Haskell Silk Company of Westbrook, Maine, operated from 1874-1930. At its peak it was above average in size and counted among major U.S. silk manufacturers. The most northerly situated silk mill, Haskell began as one of New England's numerous post-bellum machine thread makers, but within eight years shifted to weaving broadsilks. During this period many New England thread producers made a similar change and at the same time opted to relocate with new plants in the vicinity of New York and northern New Jersey, where a variety of social and economic factors provided an attractive business climate. The Haskell …

Making The Bed: Printed Sheets For Children Since 1960, Sarah Hayne Fitzsimmons

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Before the 1960s, bed sheets were usually white. Any decoration, whether applied by hand through applique, embroidery or crochet, or machine-printed, maintained the monochrome. As screen printing technology and more color-fast dyes were developed, multicolored printed bed sheets began to enter the American market. In 1960, two of the sheet patterns available in the Sears, Roebuck catalog; "Cowboys" and "Kittens," were intended specifically for children. Over the next thirty years, printed sheets for children became an increasingly booming American industry. This paper traces the evolution of these "kid sheets" from a social history point of view; focusing on the developing …

The Calligrammatic Pattern: An Aspect Of Modernism In French Textile Design, Lourdes M. Font

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper is less concerned with Twentieth Century French textiles as such than with what may have inspired their designers, with the possibilities suggested to textile artists in places where art, literature and design meet. To an artist with an appetite for the new, few places offered more possibilities than Paris in the decades before and after World War I. Between 1910 and 1940, textile designers working in Paris were part of a dose-knit community of the avant-garde that included writers, musicians, architects, painters, illustrators, interior and theatrical set designers, costumers and couturiers -- who not only mingled and took …

Textiles - An Art Form For The 90'S: Advancing Fiber With New Concepts & Marketing Strategies, Elizabeth Gaston, Laura Hill

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This panel discussion provided a forum for an exploration of the place and meaning of contemporary textile art. It was one of several concurrent panels held on the final afternoon of the Sixth Biennial Textile Society of America Symposium. Textiles An Art Form For the 90's brought together artists and enthusiasts from many backgrounds and with different perspectives. Four participants presented formal papers accompanied by slides. This was followed by a panel discussion.

The chairperson was Patricia Malarcher, editor of Surface Design Journal. She shared the viewpoint of the media. Malarcher also presented Susan Lordi Marker's paper. Marker …

Photographic Evidence For 19th Century Central Asian (Kat Production, Kate Fitz Gibbon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Rare. early photographs can provide both factual information about the various technical processes used to produce Central Asian ikat fabrics and an evocative vision of the cities of Samarkand and Bukhara in the 19th century. These photographs demonstrate the physical structure and equipment of the various craft workshops necessary for ikat production, the preparation of the ikat warp. the application of the pattern, the dye process, and the weaving and finishing of the cloth. Other photographs show the production of the most common 19th century lining materials, and the marketing of ikat in the bazaars.

Ikat fabric received wide distribution …