Arts and Humanities Commons^™

Tracing Cochineal Through The Collection Of The Metropolitan Museum, Elena Phipps, Nobuko Shibayama

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Cochineal, with its origin in the Americas, by the 16th century was exported throughout the world. From the time of the Spanish encounter with the Americas in the late 15th and early 16th century, a dyestuff for a strong, fast, red color was in high demand. While many archival documents and scholarly writing exist on the use and shipment of cochineal throughout the world, and on its impact on the textile industry, this paper traces the pathway of its use through an examination of artworks in the Metropolitan Museum. Scientific analysis aids the study in the identification of cochineal (and …

Development Of A Personal And Non-Pictorial Style In Contemporary Tapestry, Michael F. Rohde

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Some contemporary American tapestry weavers are working in a style that deliberately breaks the link with centuries of European tapestry weaving, which most often aims to be representational or pictorial in content. While a great number of remarkable works by contemporary tapestry artists are produced in this pictorial manner and are well worth consideration and commendation, a strong case can be made for more abstract imagery. The few American tapestry weavers who consciously break from the linkage to European style have developed styles that may be said to be more American, than from other influences. By examining my own work …

Woven Images: All Techniques Considered, Tommye Mcclure Scanlin

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

What motivates an artist to create images using textile media? What weaving techniques are suitable for image making? Weavers through the ages have taken colored weft threads in hand and inserted them into the warp, row-by-row, building shape upon shape in the powerful and nuanced, yet structurally simple, technique of weft-faced tapestry. With the invention of the jacquard loom, the kind of complex image making that was previously only common in tapestry weaving became mechanized, and available on a commercial level that involved faster production rates, lower costs and the creation of multiples. In recent years, the innovations in, and …

Chinese Blue And White Itajime (Jiaxie): Folk Tradition Of Carved Board Clamp Resist Dyeing In Zenjiang Province, Tomoko Torimaru, Ana Lisa Hedstrom

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This is a report on our field studies taken to identify and observe in China the process of itajime shibori, or carved board clamp resist dyeing known as Jiaxie in Chinese and Kyokechi in Japanese. There is very little known history of this craft as generally not much attention is paid in China to their folk traditions.

In 2003 and 2004, we visited Yishan, Cangnan, Zhejiang Province at a workshop which is now officially designated as Zhongnuo Minjian Gongyi Jiaxie Zuofang, or roughly ‘Chinese People’s Art Craft Jiaxie Studio’. As this designation suggests, we observed some interest by the local …

Locating Textile Arts Pedagogy: Do We Ever Settle?, Mary Lou Trinkwon

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Contemporary textile arts include a diverse continuum of practices ranging from DIY strategies rooted in grassroots culture often intentionally and intensely anti-intellectual, relational aesthetics based in social or collective practices and hyper technological electronically reliant practices often conceptual in nature. Contemporary educational practices also have a broad range of approaches and ideologies, which manifest in many forms, from applied situated social studio learning to e-learning platforms and distance learning, dependant upon social media and e-resources.

Given this complex range of diverse approaches and practices, how do we locate ourselves as educational practitioners? How do we settle into our educational spaces …

Coast Salish Textiles: From ‘Stilled Fingers’ To Spinning An Identity, Eileen Wheeler

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

When aboriginal women of south western British Columbia, Canada undertook to revisit their once prolific and esteemed ancient textile practices, the strand of cultural knowledge and expertise linking this heritage to contemporary life had become extremely tenuous. Through an engagement with cultural memory, painstakingly reclaimed, Coast Salish women began a revival in the 1980s that includes historically resonant weaving and basketry, as well as the more recent adaptive and expedient practice of knitting. This revitalization faces continuing cultural challenges as a new generation is presented with the opportunity to engage its heritage.

Through interviews with principals in this movement plus …

A A Rice Sacks Secrets: Once Hidden From Ourselves And Others, Flo Oy Wong

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In this paper I will discuss the intersections of art and history with a focus on family and community and will examine immigration, resettlement, loyalty, and mental health concepts in a traditional Chinese American perception.

During my 30 year career as an artist, I have used oral history as a foundation to explore the impact of the 1882 Chinese Exclusion Law on my family and community, including later immigrants; I have transformed these little-known chronicles into art that speaks to the universality of adjustment to space and place. The iconic materials that I have used to convey these narratives are …

Figured Velvets From Simple Looms: Velvet Pick-Up And Related Techniques For Handweavers, Wendy Landry

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Much historical velvet was designed to be figural, often in elaborate curvilinear floral motifs, and multiple colours. These complex patterns could be efficiently designed for and executed on the available drawlooms and their successors, the jacquard looms. Faced with such complexity, and the unavailability of jacquard looms and drawlooms, few handweavers have attempted to add velvet technique to their repertoire. However, the basic principles and weave structures of velvet are relatively simple and can be executed on simpler handlooms. Pick-up techniques and simple loom modifications make figured velvet accessible for weavers without access to complex jacquard velvet looms, allowing them …

Binary Fiction: Digital Weaving 2010, Concurrent Exhibitions, Eisentrager-Howard Gallery

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Eisentrager-Howard Gallery
www.unl.edu/art/facilities_eisentrager-howard.shtml
Richards Hall, 1st floor
Stadium Dr. & T St.
(402) 472-5025

Binary Fiction: Digital Weaving 2010
October 4 - 29, 2010

The artists in this exhibition, Laurie Addis, Catharine Ellis, Gail Kenning, Chia-Hui Lu, Christy Matson, Vita Plume, Michael Radyk, Ismini Samanidou, Ruth Scheuing, Pauline Verbeek-Cowart and Bhakti Ziek, use weaving combined with the generative capabilities of the computer to create planar
objects imbued with beauty and meaning. Drawing on various sources of inspiration mediated by digital technology, they transform virtual designs into material form using the matrix of threads on the loom. The binary language of …

Surrounded: Large And Small Work By Lillian Elliott Awardees, Concurrent Exhibitions, Tugboat Gallery

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Tugboat Gallery
www.tugboatgallery.com
(402) 477-6200

Surrounded: Large and Small Work by Lillian Elliott Awardees
October 1 - 29, 2010

Featuring Lillian Elliott Awardees Frances Dorsey (1995), Marcie Miller Gross (1996) and Soonran Youn, (2002)
Lillian Elliott tapestry, “Color it Twill” on exhibit, available for bidding in silent auction.

The Railroads Must Have Ties: A Legal History Of Forest Conservation And The Oregon & California Railroad Land Grant, 1887-1916, Sean M. Kammer

Department of History: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

Historians have! for the most part! left unchallenged a similar negative view of Edward H. Harriman, who headed both the Union Pacific and the Southern Pacific and was perhaps the most powerful of the railroad tycoons during the first decade of the twentieth century.4 Prior to Harriman's takeover of the Southern Pacific in 1901, that railroad's long-standing policy had been to subdivide and sell lands to farmers, miners, and loggers, the purpose being lito encourage long-term settlement, economic growth, and rail traffic," but Harriman questioned and ultimately rejected this policy.s In January 1903, he ordered the termination of sales of …

The Mother Tongues Of Modernity: Modernism, Transnationalism, Translation, Roland K. Végső

Department of English: Faculty Publications

The relation of modernism to immigrant literatures should not be conceived in terms of an opposition between universalistic and particularistic discourses. Rather, we should explore what can be called a modernist transnationalism based on a general universalist argument. Two examples of this transnationalism are explored side by side: Ezra Pound’s and Anzia Yezierska’s definitions of the aesthetic act in terms of translation. The readings show that the critical discourses of these two authors are structured by a belief in universalism while showing opposite possibilities, both generated by modernist transnationalism. The essay concludes that we now need to interpret the cultures …

American Poetry And The Daily Newspaper From The Rise Of The Penny Press To The New Journalism, Elizabeth M. Lorang

Department of English: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

This dissertation examines the relationship of poetry and the U.S. daily newspaper in the nineteenth century and begins the process of recovering and reevaluating nineteenth-century newspaper poetry. In doing so, it draws on and participates in current discussions about the role of poetry and poets in society, the importance of periodicals in the development and dissemination of American literature in the nineteenth century, and the value of studying non-canonical texts. The appearance and function of poems in daily newspapers changed over the course of the nineteenth century, and these changes were part of larger shifts in the newspaper and its …

Rethinking Repair, Monica Rentfrow

Department of English: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

Rethinking Repair is a semi-autobiographical collection of serious and humorous poetic works that explores effects a body with dwarfism has had on one individual. Through personal experience, Rethinking Repair is a collection of poems that explores the effects a body with dwarfism has had on one person. Most of the poems lean on a precise moment when dwarfism—a rare medical condition present at birth—directly has influenced the emotion or outcome of a situation. Conversely, I illuminate moments when dwarfism has had absolutely no direct influence on my experiences; I do this to counterbalance the possible perception or belief that all …

Structure And Properties Of Cocoons And Silk Fibers Produced By Hyalophora Cecropia, Narendra Reddy, Yiqi Yang

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

This paper shows that silk fibers produced by cecropia (Hyalophora cecropia) have similar tensile properties but different amino acid composition than that of mulberry (Bombyx mori) silk. The cecropia fibers are also much finer and have better strength and modulus than tasar silk, the most common non-mulberry silk. Cecropia is one of the largest silk producing moths and has similar lifecycle to that of mulberry silk but is easier to grow and produces larger cocoons than mulberry silk. In this study, we have characterized the composition, morphology, physical and tensile properties, and thermal behavior of the …

Structure And Properties Of Ultrafine Silk Fibers Produced By Theriodopteryx Ephemeraeformis, Narendra Reddy, Yiqi Yang

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

Theriodopteryx ephemeraeformis commonly known as bag worms produce ultrafine silk fibers that are remarkably different than the common domesticated (Bombyx mori) and wild (Saturniidae) silk fibers. Bag worms are considered as pests and commonly infect trees and shrubs. Although it has been known that the cocoons (bags) produced by bag worms are composed of silk, the structure and properties of the silk fibers in the bag worm cocoons have not been studied. In this research, the composition, morphology, physical structure, thermal stability, and tensile properties of silk fibers produced by bag worms were studied. Bag worm …

Forming Bodies And Reforming Healthcare: The Co-Construction Of Information Technologies And Bodies Through The Imperative For Self Care, Scout Calvert

UNL Libraries: Faculty Publications

Care work and technological work are markedly striated by sex; the sites where they overlap are few. What happens when the labor of care meets up with information technologies? It makes good methodological sense to look at largely feminized environments that are also increasingly technological. Gender, Health, and Information Technology in Context, edited and with contributions by Ellen Balka, Eileen Green, and Flis Henwood, is a welcome contribution to the body of evidence about the socio-technical co-construction of technology, health, and gender. The volume houses nine studies, bookended by an astute introduction and conclusion by the editors. Each study …