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Stephen Smalley Centerfold

Bridgewater Review

No abstract provided.

Blanket Statements, Issue 39, Winter 1994

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 39, Winter 1994

Rugs And Textiles Of Late Imperial China, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

With successive conquests of the highlands beyond the Great Wall, the Manchu rulers of the Qing dynasty (1644 - 1911) formed what was to become China's last empire. Their political expansion encompassed Han Chinese, Mongolians, Turks, Tibetans, and other peoples with diverse ethnic origins, languages and religious beliefs, whose regional economies often relied upon physical features of the land.

Within the Great Wall, to the east and south, silk and sericulture had a long history. Silkworms and mulberry trees thrived in the low-lying agricultural regions populated by Han Chinese. From inland regions rivers flowed to the sea, where coastal cities …

Ancient Near Eastern Fibers And The Reshaping Of European Clothing, Elizabeth J. W. Barber

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In April of 1994, an amazing story hit the news-stands. A group of naturally mummified corpses dated to 2000 BC and later had been found in Chinese Turkestan. Not only were their Caucasian features and blondish hair well preserved by the dry heat of the xinjiang desert, but also their clothes--brightly colored plaids and twills among them (Hadingham 1994). We know from later linguistic records that a group of Indo-European speakers we call the Tocharians had made their way to Xinjiang and the Tarim Basin in early times. We also know that the Indo-Europeans began to spread across Eurasia from …

Frontmatter - Contact, Crossover, Continuity - 1994

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Frontmatter: cover, title page, and copyright page.

Technology And Change: The Incorporation Of Synthetic Dye Techniques In Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria, Judith Byfield

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the oriki (appellations) of an 18th-century oba (king) in Okuku, references to cloth and indigo were included in the verses that attested to the oba's wealth and greatness,

Abioye, my father, Olugbola, one who takes the image and all its children to dance

The beauty of cloth dyed in indigo does not fade

Adewale, the indigo is what gives the cloth its worth

The references suggestively point to the aesthetic as well as commercial value of indigo in Yoruba society. Scholars and travelers have long noted the importance of indigo dyed cloth in Yoruba society, and Yoruba women, the …

Akwete-Igbo Weavers As Entrepreneurs And Innovators At The Turn Of The Century, Lisa Aronson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In his discourse on trade commodities, Igor Kopytoff argues that commodities assume what he calls a "cultural biography" through which one sees "the social system and the collective understanding on which it rests" (Kopytoff, 1986:89). What Kopytoff means by this is that commodities take on a life of their own based on the social and economic factors that have come to affect them. This paper will address the "cultural biography" of cloth in Southeastern Nigeria from its origins through trade to its various levels of assimilation both in use and production.

The biography discussed in this paper reaches an important …

The Conversion Of Chinese Court Robes Into Japanese Festival Hangings, Gloria Granz Gonick

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Decorated silken robes historically worn in China to garb the emperor and his family were disassembled and resewn in Japan into hangings for Kyoto's Gion Festival during the 16th to 18th centuries. The twenty robes, which were converted into coverings for festival carts called yama and hoko, include silk tapestry weaves (kesi), brocades, and embroidered examples. Eleven date from the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) and nine from the early to mid Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). This distribution contrasts with other world collections of Chinese imperial robes, in which Qing Dynasty examples are far more numerous. In addition to the …

Raphael’S Acts Of The Apostles Tapestries: The Birth Of The Tapestry Reproduction System, Marjorie Durko Puryear

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

As a younger fiber artist at the beginning of my teaching career, I rarely found European tapestries of the 16th through 18th centuries to be more than copies of paintings in a woven mask. The weaver's hand and spirit were only apparent in finite details which were resplendent with meticulous hatching, shading, and delicate slit work, unchanged from the Medieval past. But it was against my art school training to separate art concept from process. I wasn't ready to accept that the weavers were not the artists, and that tapestry was in fact an industry.

More recently, my point of …

Ottoman Silks And Their Legacy, Diane Mott

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During the late Middle Ages and the early Renaissance, luxury silks of Asia that had for centuries trickled into Europe began to enter in large numbers, fueling an appetite for the rich and exotic that was to have a lasting effect on Western textile design. In turn, expanded trade with the Levant carried Western designs and advances in weaving eastward. The Ottoman Empire, standing at the thresholds of Europe and Asia, was perfectly poised to transmit these East-West currents. Weavers in manufactories in the successive Ottoman capitals of Bursa and Istanbul, the western outposts of the Asiatic silk routes, absorbed …

Charmingly Quaint And Still Modern: The Paradox Of Colonial Revival Needlework In America, 1875–1940, Beverly Gordon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Despite the self-conscious modernism of the early 20th century, American needlework was filled with images of flower baskets, cozy cottages, spinning wheels, and women in hoopskirts. It was dominated by seemingly old-fashioned and "quaint" techniques, such as cross stitch, patchwork, crewel, and rug hooking. In an era with teeming cities, radio, and cars pouring off the assembly line, needlework came to stand for a romanticized, seemingly simpler and nobler American past. And in an era when women were winning the vote and re-entering the professional work force, needleworkers, in turn, became identified with the domestic homebody of the past. In …

Ancient Andean Headgear: Medium And Measure Of Cultural Identity, Niki R. Clark, Amy Oakland Rodman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

From the earliest recorded periods of southern Andean history, distinctive clothing styles have served to identity specific socio-cultural groups and provide clues about cultural origins. Unique environmental conditions, especially present along the arid Pacific coast of South America, have allowed the preservation of a vast archive of usually perishable material. From the far south coast of Peru to the northern desert regions of Chile, textiles, and especially headgear forms were worn to distinguish between the diverse populations who established permanent settlements along the narrow river valleys linking highland regions and the coast.

The south central Andes region has always known …

(Re-)Fashioning Identity: Late Twentieth-Century Transformations In Dress And Society In Boliva, Elayne Zorn

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The members of most of Bolivia's large indigenous ethnic groups, such as the nearly 22,000 people of ayllu Sakaka of northern Potosi, continue to wear a distinctive daily dress. Such dress nationally and internationally is emblematic of the Sakaka's separate, and to many inferior, identity as Indians. To the wearers also, or perhaps fundamentally, such dress marks a division between clothed indigenous humans (runa) and naked foreign outsiders (q'ara). This interpretation coincides with hegemonic non-Indian evaluations of Indian separateness, but reverses the hierarchy.

Yet most members of these large indigenous ethnic groups, whom I refer to …

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings Of The Fourth Biennial Symposium Of The Textile Society Of America (1994) [Entire]

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Preface 7

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Fiber and Garment

Featured Paper: Ancient Near Eastern Fibers and the Reshaping of European Clothing Elizabeth J. W. Barber 9

Wreath and Cap to Veil and Apron: American Modification of a Slavic Ritual Patricia Williams 19

Panel: Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa

Akwete-Igbo Weavers as Entrepreneurs and Innovators at the Turn of the Century Lisa Aronson 31

What’s in a Name: The Domestication of Factory Produced Wax Textiles in Cote d’Ivoire Kathleen E. Bickford 39

Technology and Change: The Incorporation of Synthetic Dye Techniques in Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria Judith Byfield 45

The …

Normal Editions Workshop Newsletter, 1994, Wonsook Kim School Of Art And Design

Normal Editions Workshop Newsletter

Annual Newsletter for the Normal Editions Workshop, School of Art, Illinois State University.

Design Education And The Quest For National Identity In Late Imperial Russia: The Case Of The Stroganov School, Wendy Salmond

Art Faculty Articles and Research

Traces the history of the Russian arts and crafts school in Moscow, from its prehistory (1825-1859) as a drawing school founded by Count Sergei Stroganov, through the directorships of Victor Butovsky and Nikolai Globa, to the years after 1917 when the school was subsumed into the VHUTEMAS. Explores the theories of design and craft taught at the school, and the art nouveau-like style developed there in the later years of the 19th c.

Daniel Serra-Badué: Dreamt Reality, University Of Richmond Museums

Exhibition Brochures

Daniel Serra-Badué: Dreamt Reality

1994

Marsh Art Gallery

Introduction

Daniel Serra-Badué is an artist of uncompromising vision who dwells upon memory as if it were tangible. "All that we see or seem - Is but a dream within a dream," wrote Edgar Allan Poe , and Serra-Badué seeks to place his audience within that dream. His evocative images compel us toward experiences that combine described reality with surreal impossibilities and dreamlike remembrances. Serra-Badué's world is a world of dreamt reality.

The lithographs in this exhibition, ranging in date from 1964 to 1992, demonstrate Serra-Badué's mastery of clarity of line, exactitude …

Camera Images: Preserving, Editing, And Mitigating The Past, Larry Beck

Dissertations and Theses @ UNI

'This thesis is a multiple unit photographic installation. The images presented are translighted display transparencies and projected transparencies. All of the images are photographs of video images (video stills). The video images and the resulting stills depict the destruction of a series of photographic images and art objects; therefore, all of the images refer to past works of art and are pictures of pictures. It is my intent in this thesis to examine and comment on our perception of camera images, the great credibility we give them, and the comfortable deception they provide. The images demonstrate that camera images offer …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 15 (1994), Virginia Gunn, Fawn Valentine, Merikay Waldvogel, Jennifer F. Goldsborough, Sunny Falling-Rain, American Quilt Society, Beverly Dunivent, Kathleen Curtis Wilson

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Virginia Gunn

Research Papers

Aesthetics. and Ethnicity: Scotch-Irish Quilts in West Virginia by Fawn Valentine

Mildred Dickerson: A Quilt Pattern Collector of the 1960s and 1970s by Merikay Waldvogel

An Album of Baltimore Album Quilt Studies by Jennifer F. Goldsborough

A Literary Patchwork Crazy Quilt: Toni Morrison's Beloved by Sunny Falling-rain

Kit Quilts .in Perspective by Anne Copeland and Beverly Dunivent

Weaving Cloth and Marketing Nostalgia: Clinch Valley Blanket Mills, 1890-1950, Cedar Bluff, Virginia by Kathleen Curtis Wilson

Authors and Editor

Index

Calliope, Armstrong State College

Calliope Magazine

Volume 11

Ephraim Rubenstein: The Rilke Series, University Of Richmond Museums

Exhibition Brochures

Ephraim Rubenstein: The Rilke Series

January 28 to February 27, 1994

Marsh Art Gallery

Introduction: Rilke and Rubenstein

The first time I met Ephraim Rubenstein, some eight years ago, and looked at his early paintings I immediately sensed a powerful poetic quality coming out of his paintbrush. This ambitious exhibition not only confirms my initial feeling, but surpasses anything I could have thought of at that time. It is rare these days to find a young artist inspired, not by pop culture or the mass media, but by a classic of literature. I find it interesting and refreshing to …

Lights And Shadows - 1994, University Of North Alabama

Lights and Shadows

Art and Literature Magazine

Bhakti, Joe Quackenbush, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker

Senses

This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class, Printed Books.

New York To Amsterdam, Selina Houwing, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker

Stories

This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class, Printed Books.

There Were Never, Steven Hoskins, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker

Stories

This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class, Printed Books.

Measure Up, Ruth Laxson, Special Collections, Fleet Library

Ruth Laxson Artist Book Archive

[26] pages : ill. (some color) Cover title. "This book is no. 6"--Colophon. Signed by the artist. "Intaglio, aquatint, and chine colle - with typography. Printed summer 1994."--Colophon.

Garden Journal, Ellen Dessloch, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker

Nature

This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class, Printed Books.

A Passage, Buzz Spector, Special Collections, Fleet Library

Artists' Books

case bound in hard cover with silk covered boards; cover; top view of text block; interior pages and spreads, detail; colophon. Book consists of 181 identical pages bound and torn vertically by the artist. The page stubs gradually increase and the resulting text block forms a triangular shape. Content of the text is blurry until the full pages can be completely read. Curated title for Fleet Library Special Collections exhibition Stacked & Altered, summer 2022.

Visionaire 11: White, Stephen Gan, Cecilia Dean, James Kaliardos, Greg Foley, Florentino J. Pamintuan

Visionaire

[68] pages, 5 unnumbered leaves of plates : illustrations ; 28 cm + 1 case (29 x 23 x 4 cm)., "White remains one of our personal favorites, if not the favorite, because it was the most focused and, some say, the most elegant issue. The challenge: How do we print a publication using little to no ink? The solution: Artwork was either embossed, printed with varnish (our interpretation of "invisible" ink), or, as in the case of Ruben Toledo's illustrations, hand cut from tissue paper in a small village in China. We used braille on the cover and on …

Visionaire 12: Desire, Stephen Gan, Cecilia Dean, James Kaliardos, Greg Foley, Design Industries Foundation Fighting Aids (Diffa)

Visionaire

76 unnumbered pages : illustrations (some color) ; 28 cm + 1 case (30 x 24 x 3 cm), Title from title sheet. "Fall 1994." Unbound photographs, prints, and prose, printed on papers of varying texture, laid in a red satin case with a red ribbon tie and peg closures. Includes a mounted, three-dimensional photograph and "Highlights from the fall-winter 1994 collections" by Bill Cunningham. Contributor list: Anders Edstrom, Andrew Gellatley, Barbara Kruger, Barry Ratoff, Bill Cuningham,- Bill Jacobson, Björk, Bruce Weber, David Armstrong, David Seidner, Deborah Kass, Ellen von Unwerth, Elliott Green, Enrique Basulescu, Francois Berthoud, Nan Goldin, Jack …