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Articles 61 - 90 of 107
Full-Text Articles in Arts and Humanities
Dedication- 1988, Milton Sonday
Dedication- 1988, Milton Sonday
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
This published proceeding is a milestone in the development of the Textile Society of America, a professional organization for people involved with the study and care of textiles. Without the strong and consistent guiding hand of its founding president, Peggy Gilfoy, the first steps of this fledgling organization would have been so painless, nor its accomplishments so impressive.
Peg's untimely death in November, 1988, has come as a shock to us all. For the Textile Society of America there can be no more fitting memorial to this generous colleague and scholar than the dedication of this volume to Peggy Stolz …
Creating A Protocol For Reconstructing Weaving Technologies: Early Compound Non-Silk Fabrics Found In Egypt, M. M. El-Homossani
Creating A Protocol For Reconstructing Weaving Technologies: Early Compound Non-Silk Fabrics Found In Egypt, M. M. El-Homossani
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Introduction
The examination of weft-faced compound non-silk fabrics found in Egypt (ca. 3rd - 7th century A.D.), in the Royal Ontario Museum collections, revealed many structural differences and similarities. Single, double and ply yarns with apparent variation in size and set density were observed. Some have their twist in "S" direction, others in "Z" direction, with diverse amount of twist. Wool yarns make up the majority of the constructions, but in many cases wool yarns alternate with cotton and sometimes linen yarns. Tabby and 1/2 twill weaves are employed as binding weaves, while the compound weave structures comprise 1:1 and …
Crepe, Lillian Elliott
Crepe, Lillian Elliott
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
This report is on Crepe, which I have been weaving for eighteen years. I've chosen to achieve crepe effects not by weave structure or finishing techniques, but by the amount, direction, and combination of spin in the yarn. In my work I have used available commercial yarns almost exclusively, although I am interested in handspun yarn effects as well. I've chosen to use plain weave or tabby, so as to eliminate other elements, and focus on the effects of the spin of the yarn.
The area on which I concentrated was intentionally limited; using plain wave I first combined different …
Manila Galleon Trade Textiles: Cross-Cultural Influences On New World Dress, Abby Sue Fisher
Manila Galleon Trade Textiles: Cross-Cultural Influences On New World Dress, Abby Sue Fisher
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Spanning a 250 year period from 1565-1815, the Manila Galleon Trade is a fascinating period in history which is addressed far too infrequently by textile scholars. The cross-cultural contact resulting from the Spanish conquest of America expanded to include Asia with the start of the trans-Pacific trade in 1565. Spanish trade ships sailed between Manila in the Philippines and Acapulco in New Spain, becoming the most enduring trade route in history. Three continents were involved: Asia, the Americas, and Europe, and consequently three entirely different cultures with their corresponding customs, belief systems and art styles. The steady contact between these …
Theme And Variations: Creative Improvisation In African Textiles, Peggy S. Gilfoy
Theme And Variations: Creative Improvisation In African Textiles, Peggy S. Gilfoy
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The Euro-American textile patterning vocabulary focusses on compartmentalization and symmetry. We describe textile design schemes as "repeats;" and as with many aspects of our lives, we divide our expressions into neat cubicles. The art historian, Meyer Shapiro, who wrestled with this cultural trait expressed it this way:
"Hardening of the categories causes art disease."
Yet, for many art-producing cultures there is scant division between the working world and the spiritual, the procurement of food and maintenance of order; relating history and group entertainment. Art is life. The function of artistic structure and the tenets of life are often interwoven.
Theme …
"Little Trifles": Understanding Victorian Fancywork, Beverly Gordon
"Little Trifles": Understanding Victorian Fancywork, Beverly Gordon
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
As professionals working in museum and academic settings, many of you have probably found yourselves feeling at times like "poor cousins" -- textiles simply do not garner the same prestige as other types of artifacts and art forms. I now find myself in a situation where I feel like an even poorer cousin: although I am involved with textiles of all kinds, I find myself particularly fascinated or compelled by a type of textile-related artifact that is rarely considered seriously, even by textile historians. I am speaking of fancywork, specifically of small items such as tidies, wallpockets, sewing cases, flowerpot …
Designing Among The Navajo: Ethno Aesthetics In Weaving, Ann Lane Hedlund
Designing Among The Navajo: Ethno Aesthetics In Weaving, Ann Lane Hedlund
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Navajo weaving from northeastern Arizona and contiguous areas if the American Southwest is widely recognized for colors and patterns that range from subtle shades to dynamic brilliance, from soft stripes to bold geometries to fanciful pictorials. The apparent diversity in this native textile art, developed over the past three centuries, has defied any unified description of The Navajo Style. While Navajo blankets and rugs may be superficially categorized and classified, put into chronological sequences and evolutionary schemes, when the textiles are viewed synoptically, the delineation of Navajo aesthetics remains a formidable task.
The search for a Navajo style and sense …
Index To Authors- 1988
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
INDEX TO AUTHORS
A-Z pp.165-69 (6 pages)
Anderson, Clarita
Baizerman, Suzanne
Barber, Elizabeth
Beardsley, Grace
Cooper, Arlene
Davis, Virginia
El-Homossani, M. M
Elliott, Lillian
Felsher, Lynn
Femenias, Blenda
Fisher, Abby Sue
Frame, Mary
...
Washbum, Dorothy K
Westfall, Carol D.
Wilson, Laurel Elizabeth
The Kings As Gods: Textiles In The Thai State, H. Leedom Lefferts Jr,
The Kings As Gods: Textiles In The Thai State, H. Leedom Lefferts Jr,
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
If one observes the principles of Theravada Buddhist art, Thai textiles appear to pose a paradox. On the one hand, Buddhist art is defined as progressing hierarchically from representational to aniconic motifs, replicating movement from worlds of lesser merit to worlds of greater merit. On the other hand, we have the gloriously figurative and expensive garments worn by Thai royalty and adorning gods as depicted in temple murals. How is this seeming discrepancy to be explained?
A recent translation of a section of a larger work by the noted French scholar on Southeast Asia and Buddhism, Paul Mus, titled "The …
The Validity Of Studies Of Pattern And Structure: Case Histories, Milton Sonday
The Validity Of Studies Of Pattern And Structure: Case Histories, Milton Sonday
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The importance of the analysis of continuous pattern and detailed recordings of the structures of lampas and velvet was driven home to me during my work on the Textile Museum's Safavid project. This resulted in "Pattern and Weaves, Safavid Lampas and Velvet" pp. 57-83 in the catalogue Woven from the Soul, Spun from the Heart published by The Textile Museum, Bier (1987). Practically anyone with a minimum knowledge of Iranian Safavid art and design of the 16th and 17th centuries can recognize a standard Safavid-style lampas and velvet because of motif. Therefore, why go any farther? Perhaps you don't, but …
Analysis Of Pattern Structure By Geometric Symmetries, Dorothy K. Washburn
Analysis Of Pattern Structure By Geometric Symmetries, Dorothy K. Washburn
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
INTRODUCTION
While a large literature exists on the technologies different peoples use to manufacture woven fabrics (cf. Emery 1966), little attention has been given to developing equally systematic ways to study the patterns produced. This paper outlines one approach to pattern analysis which utilizes mathematical symmetries to describe the way design parts are arranged in a pattern. The advantages of this method are discussed and examples of a number of problems that such an analysis of pattern structure can address are described.
SYMMETRY ANALYSIS:
Symmetry analysis is a mathematically based description of the structure of a pattern. It specifies the …
The Cornett Family Quilts, Laurel Elizabeth Wilson
The Cornett Family Quilts, Laurel Elizabeth Wilson
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
ABSTRACT
The Cornett farm was settled in 1844 when northwestern Missouri was still frontier. The farm, its buildings and contents were donated to the University of Missouri in 1981. The house, built in 1884, contained three generations' of belongings. Among them were 41 quilts made by various members of Cornett family between 1855 and 1940.
This collection gives researchers valuable insights into the way people lived and how resources were utilized. Among the oldest quilts is one made entirely from handwoven homespun which was also home dyed. The fabrics were previously articles of clothing. A transitional quilt utilizes homespun fabrics …
Say, See, Bone : Lessons From French, Susan Elizabeth King, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Say, See, Bone : Lessons From French, Susan Elizabeth King, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Artists' Books
[37] leaves . Title on 3 succesive leaves. Text consists of prose pieces by King, poems in French by Adloff and King's translation of Adloff's poems; letterpress translations, and corrections and comments printed as handwriting, appear on Japanese paper as overlays. "Designed and letterpress printed in an edition of 125 copies by Susan E. King at Paradise Press."--Prospectus. "The coptic binding was done by hand by Shelley Hoyt."--Colophon. Blue and white paste paper cover boards made by Susan King. Prospectus laid in.
About Change, About Change, About Change, Change About!, Ruth Laxson, Special Collections, Fleet Library
About Change, About Change, About Change, Change About!, Ruth Laxson, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Ruth Laxson Artist Book Archive
[20] leaves : color ill. "About change (about) explores the possibilities of combining the etching press and letter press."--Colophon. Issued in a plastic binder. The library has copy number 14 of an edition of 25, signed by the artist.
American Splendor, No. 13, Harvey Pekar, Special Collections, Fleet Library
American Splendor, No. 13, Harvey Pekar, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Underground Comix
volumes : illustrations. Began in 1976 with #1; ceased in 1993 with #17. American Splendor is a series of autobiographical comic books written by Harvey Pekar and drawn by a variety of artists. The first issue was published in 1976 and the last one in September 2008, with publication occurring at irregular intervals (Pekar died in 2010). Publishers were, at various times, Harvey Pekar himself, Dark Horse Comics, and DC Comics. In addition to R. Crumb, Pekar's most well-known and longest-running collaborators included Gary Dumm, Greg Budgett, Spain Rodriguez, Joe Zabel, Gerry Shamray, Frank Stack, Mark Zingarelli, and Joe Sacco. …
Changing Facades, Jose C. Orozco, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker
Changing Facades, Jose C. Orozco, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker
Culture
This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class.
You See This Book, Jose C. Orozco, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker
You See This Book, Jose C. Orozco, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker
Senses
This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class, Printed Books.
This Is A Book Of A Family And Of A Place Of The Heart, Sarah Malcolm Self, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker
This Is A Book Of A Family And Of A Place Of The Heart, Sarah Malcolm Self, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker
Stories
This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class, Printed Books.
The Old-Time Printer, Mark Twain, Francis Xavier Harrigan, Don Brady, Special Collections, Fleet Library
The Old-Time Printer, Mark Twain, Francis Xavier Harrigan, Don Brady, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Miniature Books
vi, 18 pages : illustrations ; 65 mm (6.4 x 5 cm). "This book was handset in 6 pt. Bulmer with "Notes" set in 6 pt. Baskerville. Printed by F.X. Harrigan at the Xavier Press in a limited edition of 175 copies. Bound by Don Brady."--colophon. Foreword by the printer. Text is copy of an address Twain delivered in New York City to commemorate Benjamin Franklin's birthday in 1886. Frontispiece is a mounted reproduction of a US postage stamp which included a portrait of Mark Twain. Ten cent stamp originally issued 1940. Title page printed in black and red. Bound …
The Valley Series: Recent Paintings By Keith Jacobshagen, Daphne A. Deeds
The Valley Series: Recent Paintings By Keith Jacobshagen, Daphne A. Deeds
Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications
Keith Jacobshagen has been a member of the Art Department at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln since 1968. During the past ten years, he has established a national. reputation as a painter of the mid-western landscape. His studies of the plains are thoughtful assessments of familiar views. But, while Jacobshagen's paintings document the particular conditions of weather, light, topography, and their effect on the land, they also transcend the specific to function as metaphors for the human condition: a solitary viewer surveying an expanse of farm land; a transitory, cloudy sky meeting the cultivated fields; the sky as mystery touching the …
Seas Of The Moon, Katharine Meynell, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Seas Of The Moon, Katharine Meynell, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Artists' Books
hand sewn signatures with metallic paper hand stitched to the cover pages, book enclosed in a denim cloth slipcase; cover; title page; interior spreads. Images of the poetically named "seas" of the moon's surface are conveyed with images of parts of baby clothes, implying the relationship between the full moon and childbirth.
Design Research: The Newsletter Of The Design Research Society No.32, Maggie Gordon
Design Research: The Newsletter Of The Design Research Society No.32, Maggie Gordon
Design Research Newsletters (1977-1999)
No abstract provided.
The Effect Of Man On The Landscape And The Effect Of Land On The Manscape: Or Contingent Plans For Knowing A Mountain, Taylor Scott Baldwin
The Effect Of Man On The Landscape And The Effect Of Land On The Manscape: Or Contingent Plans For Knowing A Mountain, Taylor Scott Baldwin
Theses and Dissertations
In my artistic practice, I emphasize personal and pan-cultural anxieties regarding civilization and the environment as an impetus for work in sculpture, video, and drawing. By locating marginal microcosmic subject matter that tellingly exhibits macrocosmic global dread, I seek to capture and distill our overwhelming eco-socio-political anxiety into a portrait of a society at a point in its history when the specter of nameless impending disaster weighs pressingly on the collective psyche. This thesis is supplementary to my work of sculpture in the Graduate School of the Arts Thesis Exhibition at the Anderson Gallery opening on April 27th, 2007. The …
A Structural And Functional Analysis Of Eighteenth Century Buttons, Stephen Hinks
A Structural And Functional Analysis Of Eighteenth Century Buttons, Stephen Hinks
Dissertations, Theses, and Masters Projects
No abstract provided.
The University Of Maryland Historic Textile Data Base, Clarita Anderson
The University Of Maryland Historic Textile Data Base, Clarita Anderson
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
INTRODUCTION
Our charge today is to discuss strategies and methodologies for gathering and extracting data from textiles. My specific task is to discuss the University of Maryland Historic Textile Data Base. This Data Base was officially established in September 1986 with a grant from the College of Human Ecology. Its purpose was to establish a sophisticated data management program on personal computers to handle the massive amounts of data necessary for research in this area. The long range goal of this project is to include all flat textiles. The immediate goal is to establish a data base on coverlets.
Before …
A French "Kashmir" Shawl In The Collection Of The Metropolitan Museum, Arlene Cooper
A French "Kashmir" Shawl In The Collection Of The Metropolitan Museum, Arlene Cooper
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
This paper proposes a French provenance for a rare and superb long white shawl1 in the collection of the Textile Study Room (TSR) of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This shawl has generally been thought to have been woven in Kashmir from a French design because of its weave structure, double weft-interlocked 2/2 twill, a characteristically Indian technique. The quality of the shawl is comparable to the finer Kashmir and French shawls of the earlier 19th c.; there are between 43 and 53 wefts per centimeter of goat hair in 12 colors used so effectively there appear to be …
Piecing In Twill Tapestry Shawls Of Persia And Kashmir, Grace C. Beardsley
Piecing In Twill Tapestry Shawls Of Persia And Kashmir, Grace C. Beardsley
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The 19th century witnessed the development of considerable piecework in the manufacture of twill tapestry shawls in both Kashmir and Persia. Modes of construction parallel so closely as to be indistinguishable. This is not surprising considering the centuries-long lively cultural intercourse between the two areas and especially their exchange of designs, weavers and textile technology. In both regions piecework was a response to pressure for faster production, the culmination of a gradual shift from atelier weaving toward a mass market.
Among construction modes, the weaving and subsequent assembly of many rectilinear shapes is to be found especially among long shawls. …
Work-In-Progress, Lynn Felsher
Work-In-Progress, Lynn Felsher
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
INTRODUCTION
This slide presentation and brief introduction represent work-in-progress, originally undertaken for an exhibition that was to have been held at the Fashion Institute of Technology.1
The textiles in question were either designed for the textile firm of F. Schumacher & Company or imported and sold under the company's name. The slides, reproduced from a number of periodicals and company manuals, were shown in the hope that they would be recognized by the other conferees.
HISTORY2
The company was founded by Frederick Schumacher, who came to the United States from France in 1883 to establish an office for …
Colonial Ecuadorian Yndias And Their Textiles, Blenda Femenias
Colonial Ecuadorian Yndias And Their Textiles, Blenda Femenias
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Quito, Ecuador was a well established colonial urban center by the late sixteenth century. Although dominated by the Spanish ruling elite, indigenous people (male yndios, female yndias} and those of both Spanish and Andean ancestry (mestizos, mestizas} were socially and economically active in Quito. Cloth was a major trade item and prestige good, which circulated widely in Quito society and throughout the Andes. In pre-Hispanic times, Quito was not a major cloth-production center, and most fabric was imported from elsewhere in the Andes. During the colonial period, in addition to Andean textiles, European fabrics, as …
A World Of Costume And Textiles, Susan Anderson Hay
A World Of Costume And Textiles, Susan Anderson Hay
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Susan Anderson Hay announced the publication of A World of Costume and Textiles: A Handbook of the Collection at the Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design. Written by 13 authors, the book illustrates and describes 113 of the most important textiles and costumes in this superb collection. Begun in the 1870s with the founding of the Museum of Art, the textile and costume collection contains about 14,000 textiles and 6,000 examples of costume. It ranges from ancient Egyptian linen to contemporary Japanese artists' textiles and includes everything from colorful African Rente cloths to the early sixteenth century Flemish …