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Harding Magazine Winter 2008 (Vol. 16, No. 1), Harding University

Harding Magazines

Publication distributed to alumni and friends of the university.

Life Before Legal Status: The Experiences Of Undocumented Immigrants, Latoya Staine Carriker

Undergraduate Review

No abstract provided.

A Marketplace In Miniature: Norwich Pattern Books As Cultural Agency, Victoria Mitchell

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

An eighteenth-century book of woven samples can be considered as a seminal link between the production of raw materials in one cultural context and clothing or furnishing in another. In bringing images of such samples from Norwich to Hawaii for a twenty-first century conference on Textiles as Cultural Expressions I am also conscious of mapping an openended dialogue which engages the historical and the contemporary. This perspective is recognized by anthropologist Arjun Appadurai when he says that ‘from a methodological point of view it is the things-in-motion that illuminate their human and social context.

Thus, although consideration of books and …

The String Or Grass Skirt; An Ancient Garment In The Southern Andes, Amy Oakland

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction to Session and South America

The regions of South America specific to our session concerning extraordinary textiles from the Southern Andes include the dry Pacific coast of southern Peru and northern Chile. Among the earliest inhabited sites of South America are those from the coast near Arica, Chile and the interior desert of the Pampa de Tamarugal. It is here that Chinchorro (9000-3000 B.P.) burials and later Formative (3000-1,500 B.P.) cemeteries of closely related coastal people known as Quiani and Fladas del Morro have been excavated (Fig. 1).

Although humans inhabited the coast and highlands of South America for …

Woven To Shape: A Pre-Columbian Trapezoidal Tunic From The South Central Andes In The Metropolitan Museum Of Art, Elena Phipps

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Garments used throughout the Southern Andes from the early Pre-Columbian era to at least the time of the Spanish arrival in the sixteenth century, traditionally were constructed of single or multiple webs of rectangular four-selvaged cloth sometimes folded and seamed, but rarely cut to shape. As a result, the drape and style of most garments retained the rigid outlines of their originally constructed rectangular format.

Sometime after the eighth century A.D., along the far south coast of Peru and northern Chile, a different garment style developed. This featured a tunic with wide, curving shoulder, tapered sides, and sometimes bulging …

The Use Of Trapezoidal Tunics With Curved Warp Borders As A Means To Define The Pica Tarapacá Cultural Group Of Northern Chile (900-1200 Ad), Carolina Agüero

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

When the circulation networks implemented by Tiwanaku in the South Central Andes broke down, there began a process of political disintegration that materialized into a series of villagelevel territorial and political units competing for resources – a process with significant social and economic consequences (Schiappacasse et al. 1989).

It has been suggested for the Late Intermediate Period (1000-1450 AD), that the Tarapacá region was united and controlled by a socio-political unit that reformulated the social and geographic landscape. The reformulation incorporated resources from different ecological zones by means of a dispersed settlement pattern and llama caravanning practices, all of …

Sea Snail Purple In Contemporary Japanese Embroidery, Takako Terada

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Purple dye

Sea snail purple, also known as Shellfish purple, Tyrian purple, Royal purple, Ancient purple or Murex purple, abbreviated to purple in this text, is a pigment obtained from the secretion of the hypobranchial glands of certain species marine mollusks (Fig. 1). The milky secretion from the glands includes a purple precursor which can be applied directly onto textiles (Fig. 2), where the final pigments are formed in the presence of oxygen and sunlight (Fig. 3). The main chemical constituent of the purple pigment was discovered by Paul Friedländer in 1909 to be 6,6′- dibromoindigo.

Purple dye in …

Catching The Light, Catching The Waves: The Suzani Collection Of Doris Duke At Shangri La In Honolulu, Hawai‛I, Carol Bier

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction: Doris Duke’s Shangri La and Her Suzani Collection

In 1935 tobacco heiress Doris Duke married James H. R. Cromwell and together they embarked on a year-long voyage around the world for their honeymoon. Returning home eastwards, their last port of call was Honolulu before they were to establish themselves in West Palm Beach, Florida. They found they enjoyed Honolulu, so they stayed much longer than planned. They bought a spot of land on Black Point, east of Diamond Head, and ultimately never settled in Florida.

Here, in the next couple of years, they built a house they soon dubbed …

The Quilt Index: Communicating Stories In The Stitches, Mary Worrall, Marsha Macdowell, Justine Richardson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During the last third of the twentieth century, a revival of quiltmaking occurred throughout the world along with a concurrent emergence of quilts as a focus of documentation and study. The rise of the feminist art movement in the 1960s and a heightened national interest in American history spawned by the nation’s bicentennial celebration in 1976 paved the way for a burst of interest in historical and contemporary American traditions, women’s artistic contributions, crafts in general and quiltmaking in particular. Millions of individuals began making quilts, an art form that had languished after World War II. By 2006, there were …

Embellishments Of The Alaska Native Gut Parka, Fran Reed

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Dealing with the various and extreme weather conditions in Alaska is a serious matter. Coastal Native Alaskans have been surviving in these severe environments for millennia. Without a local general store in which to buy a nice rain slicker, one must be resourceful with what is available. Between the hot summers and frigid winters are the transition seasons when it rains. Bird skins and fish skins were used extensively to make raincoats but it is the gut skin parka that proved so universal along the coast of Alaska (Fig. 1). From village to village different preparations, stitching methods and artistic …

Author Biographies

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Author Biographies A-Z

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 20:1 — Winter 2008, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Hawaii's Textile Resources Featured at Site Seminars, 11th TSA Biennial Symposium, Honolulu, Hawaii, September 24–27
President's Letter
TSA News
TSA Member News
Visual Language of Cloth: Commemorative Handkerchiefs
Pre-Symposium Colloquium, Post-Symposium Tour
Publications News
Featured Collection: Hidden Textile Treasures at the Armenian Museum and Library, Watertown, Massachusetts
Collections News
Exhibition Reviews
Calendar-Exhibitions
Calendar-Virtual, Lectures, Workshops, Tours
Conferences & Symposia
Employment

Methods For Improving Cancer Surveillance Data In American Indian And Alaska Native Populations, David K. Espey, Charles Wiggins, Melissa A. Jim, Barry A. Miller, Christopher J. Johnson, Tom M. Becker

United States Public Health Resources

BACKGROUND. The misclassification of race decreases the accuracy of cancer incidence data for American Indians and Alaska Natives (AI/ANs) in some central cancer registries. This article describes the data sources and methods that were used to address this misclassification and to produce the cancer statistics used by most of the articles in this supplement.

METHODS. Records from United States cancer registries were linked with Indian Health Service (IHS) records to identify AI/AN cases that were misclassified as non-AI/AN. Data were available from 47 registries that linked their data with IHS, met quality criteria, and agreed to participate. Analyses …

Black Silk, Brown Silk: China And Beyond—Traditional Practice Meets Fashion, Abby Lillethun

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This one-hour discussion panel will examine bi-colored black and brown silk textiles called chiao-chou and shiang-yin-sa, (a.k.a. black gummed silk, Canton silk, cloud perfumed silk, gambiered silk, and by other names). Little known in the West, these textiles express cultural identities associated with a specific geographic locals where the required mud treatment can take place. Thus, the textiles have primarily been made in southern China in Guangdong province and in Southeast Asia in Thailand and Vietnam where Chinese immigration occurred. Since their heyday during the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911), they faded from use. The panel first contextualizes the textiles and the …

The String Or Grass Skirt; An Ancient Garment In The Southern Andes, Amy Oakland

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The string or grass skirt appears among the earliest known garments in the Southern Andes. Archaeologists discovered the skirts wrapped around Chinchorro ancestor figures in burials near the Pacific coast of North Chile dating to 8000 B.C. The Chinchorro people’s mummified ancestors included specific gender traits so it is clear that they wanted to identify the skirts as a female garment. Chinchorro men were equipped with leather loincloths and both apparently used twinned grass mantles, blankets, or mats.

Through time, these coastal Andeans developed an elaborate dress with enormous string turbans and pelican-skin capes, however the string skirt remained the …

Black Silk, Brown Silk: China And Beyond—Fabric Analysis, Margaret T. Ordoñez

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This one-hour discussion panel will examine bi-colored black and brown silk textiles called chiao-chou and shiang-yin-sa, (a.k.a. black gummed silk, Canton silk, cloud perfumed silk, gambiered silk, and by other names). Little known in the West, these textiles express cultural identities associated with a specific geographic locals

Suffolk Alumni Magazine, Vol. 3, No. 2, 2008, Suffolk University

Suffolk University Magazine

No abstract provided.

Leaves From An Autumn Of Emergencies: Selections From The Wartime Diaries Of Ordinary Japanese, John E. Van Sant

Vulcan Historical Review

pp. 109-112

Washington University Magazine, Spring 2008

Washington University Magazine

No abstract provided.

Black Silk, Brown Silk: China And Beyond—Traditional Practice Meets Fashion, Abby Lillethun

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This report discusses black-colored silks from southeastern Asia that are often referred to as “gummed” silks. These silks are treated with iron-rich mud that coats the silk filaments and creates a deep black color (often in conjunction with a previous coloration). The report covers three areas. Firstly, I review various names used for black mud-treated silks and begin to contextualize the production and use region. Two mud-treated silk samples from early-1930s Southeast Asia are introduced in this discussion. Secondly, I initiate investigation into the role of mud-treated black silks in Chinese fashion history during the transition from the late-imperial era …

Asian And European American Cultural Values, Bicultural Competence, And Attitudes Toward Seeking Professional Psychological Help Among Asian American Adolescents, Michael M. Omizo, Bryan S.K. Kim, Nick R. Abel

Scholarship and Professional Work – Education

The authors examined the extent to which Asian American adolescents who were living in Hawaii adhered to Asian and European American cultural values in relation to mental health variables including collective self-esteem (membership, private, public, importance to identity), cognitive flexibility, general self-efficacy, and attitudes toward seeking professional psychological help. Results and implications for counselors are discussed.

Undergraduate And Graduate Course Descriptions, 2008 Winter, Wright State University

Course Descriptions

Wright State University undergraduate and graduate course descriptions from Winter 2008.

Act And Amendments (Tjrc) - Tjrc Act 2008 (As Amended), Truth, Justice, And Reconciliation Commission

I. Core TJRC Related Documents

No abstract provided.

Description And Analysis Of Bilingual Programs Implemented In Kalamazoo Public Schools, Jessica Glover

Honors Theses

The purpose of this study is to answer the question "How does Kalamazoo's bilingual education program align with the standards established by Intercultural Development Research Association?" In this study I list and researched the current bilingual programs implemented in Kalamazoo Public Schools, and then I analyze Kalamazoo Public Schools' overall bilingual program using a rubric designed by Montecel, Cortez, Cortez, and Villarreal (2002).

Paleontology, Geography, And Biochemistry Of The Pratum Mammoth, Western Oregon, Stacie J. Cearley

Undergraduate Honors Theses

In August of 1967 remains of a mammoth were discovered in a peat bog in Pratum, a small farming community near Salem, Oregon. Two molars were found in conjunction with a tusk, femur, and partial pelvis. While mammoths finds are fairly common in the area, detailed paleontological analysis has rarely been attempted on such finds. The goals of this project are to analyze the Pratum mammoth in terms of the geographic and geologic context of the find, conduct stable isotope biochemical analyses of the bones and tusk, and morphometric analysis of the remains. Morphometric analysis of the find has determined …

Self-Directed Behaviors In Tibetan Macaques (Maca Thibetana) As A Function Of Tourist Density And Proximity At The Valley Of The Wild Monkeys, Terrence A. Yenter

Undergraduate Honors Theses

Prior work has shown a relationship between tourist density and self-directed behaviors (SDBs) in Tibetan macaques (Macaca thibetana) at the Valley of the Wild Monkeys. In this study, focal animal sampling was used to collect data on two groups, one with eight adults and the other with 20, during August 2007. Consistent with past research, we found that the quadrat of the study site where monkeys are at eye-level with humans was both least visited by the monkeys and had the highest SDB rates. Of the remaining tourist adjacent quadrats, monkeys spent significantly less time in these areas, …

Give Me That Old Time Religion: Nostalgia, Memory And The Rhetoric Of Loss In Bede's Historical Ecclesiastica Gentus Anglorum, John T.R. Terry

Inquiry: The University of Arkansas Undergraduate Research Journal

Bede 's Ecclesiastical History of the English People was composed by a monk of northeastern England around AD 731. It is a tome of nearly unparalleled prominence to this day in English church history. Many Bedan scholars have hitherto been concerned with common themes in Bede's works: biblical typology and exegesis, influences, sources, politics and even the nature of Bede's own mysterious life. This paper, however, seeks to add a definite human component to Bede and the times in which he lived where most studies have not, simply by using modern studies of nostalgia in a universal sense.

2008-09 Granite State College - Undergraduate Catalog, Granite State College

Granite State College Catalogs

No abstract provided.

Book Review: Game Of Shadows, Jeremy J. Geisel

Marquette Sports Law Review

No abstract provided.

Human Rights Commissions And Public Policy: The Role Of The Canadian Human Rights Commission In Advancing Sexual Orientation Equality Rights In Canada, Annette Nierobisz, Mark Searl, Charles Theroux

Sociology and Anthropology Faculty Work

No abstract provided.