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Acoustic Backscattering From A Wind-Driven Water Surface, R. A. Pruitt, S. W. Marshall, R. R. Goodman Jan 1969

Acoustic Backscattering From A Wind-Driven Water Surface, R. A. Pruitt, S. W. Marshall, R. R. Goodman

Journal of Marine Research

This paper reports an attempt to measure the asymmetry of wind-generated water waves by using acoustical methods. A 40-foot wind-tunnel water flume provided a controlled water surface that was insonified from above at 162 kHz with pulses 30 µsec in duration (5 cycles). The scattered-pressure amplitude pulses were analyzed statistically as a function of the shear stress produced at the water surface by the wind....

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The Ekman Vertical Velocity In An Enclosed Β-Plane Ocean, W. Lawrence Gates Jan 1969

The Ekman Vertical Velocity In An Enclosed Β-Plane Ocean, W. Lawrence Gates

Journal of Marine Research

The vertical flux beneath the surface boundary layer is determined by balancing the divergence induced in this layer by the prescribed wind stress and surface temperature with the divergence of an assumed geostrophic interior ftow. In this manner the equilibrium surface height over an enclosed basin is formulated as a boundary-value problem, the solution of which leads directly to the Ekman vertical velocity....

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Internal Wave Propagation Normal To A Geostrophic Current, David Healey, Paul H. Leblond Jan 1969

Internal Wave Propagation Normal To A Geostrophic Current, David Healey, Paul H. Leblond

Journal of Marine Research

It is shown that (i) internal gravity waves propagating along a horizontal density gradient in a uniformly rotating ocean can exist for a range of slightly smaller frequencies than is possible in the absence of such a gradient, (ii) such waves exhibit a phase difference from top to bottom, and (iii) they exchange energy with the geostrophic current, which balances the density-induced pressure gradient....

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On The Dynamics Of The Florida Current, William J. Schmitz Jr. Jan 1969

On The Dynamics Of The Florida Current, William J. Schmitz Jr.

Journal of Marine Research

This paper contains selected results from the first in a series of new efforts directed toward establishing an observational basis for testing hypotheses on the dynamics of the Florida Current. These efforts are based on the application of a recently developed free-instrument method for the collection of density and velocity field data at several sections across the Current....

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The Generation Of Longshore Currents On A Plane Beach, Anthony J. Bowen Jan 1969

The Generation Of Longshore Currents On A Plane Beach, Anthony J. Bowen

Journal of Marine Research

The generation of longshore currents on a beach is investigated theoretically, using the concept of radiation stress to describe the flux of momentum associated with the incoming waves. Outside the surf zone, the longshore gradient of the radiation stress is always zero, and the flow is therefore driven only inside the surf zone....

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Some New Observations On The Equilibrium Region Of The Wind-Wave Spectrum, John Garrett Jan 1969

Some New Observations On The Equilibrium Region Of The Wind-Wave Spectrum, John Garrett

Journal of Marine Research

Observations made with an array of wave sensors reveal significant differences between the high-frequency regions of spectra measured on different days. These differences suggest that the idea of a universal equilibrium range may not be strictly true.

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Oceanic Flow Over Varying Bottom Topography, R. A. Clarke, N. P. Fofonoff Jan 1969

Oceanic Flow Over Varying Bottom Topography, R. A. Clarke, N. P. Fofonoff

Journal of Marine Research

A study has been made of steady barotropic flows on the β plane over a bottom topography that varies in a direction inclined to the circles of latitude. The solutions obtained, starting with both the Eulerian and the Lagrangian systems of equations, are shown to be identical in the case of flow over a single-depth discontinuity....

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Effects Of Friction And Surface Tide Angle Of Incidence On The Coastal Generation Of Internal Tides, J. G. Weigand, H. G. Farmer, S. J. Prinsenberg, Maurice Rattray Jr. Jan 1969

Effects Of Friction And Surface Tide Angle Of Incidence On The Coastal Generation Of Internal Tides, J. G. Weigand, H. G. Farmer, S. J. Prinsenberg, Maurice Rattray Jr.

Journal of Marine Research

For the generation of internal waves by long surface waves, the normal-mode equations and solutions that satisfy the boundary conditions in a two-layer system are found analytically. Frictional effects decrease the amplitude of an internal wave over the shelf, changing it from a standing wave to a wave that progresses coastward and decreases the interference on the amplitude of the offshore progressive wave traveling seaward. Model studies, using a two-layer system of fresh water and saline water in a 9.9-m-long channel, gave favorable results relative to the theoretical results.

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Average Velocities Of Some Ocean Currents As Deduced From The Recovery Of Plastic Drift Cards, G. H. Stander, L. V. Shannon, J. A. Campbell Jan 1969

Average Velocities Of Some Ocean Currents As Deduced From The Recovery Of Plastic Drift Cards, G. H. Stander, L. V. Shannon, J. A. Campbell

Journal of Marine Research

Twenty-four drift cards, released in 1964 through 1966 in the vicinity of Cape Town and at various locations in the Atlantic Ocean, have been recovered on the coasts of: North and South America, three islands in the South Atlantic, England, France, Nigeria, and Australia. The travel times indicated by 19 of these cards have been used to estimate the mean velocities of the presumed current systems involved. The rate of card recovery and the long distances traveled by the cards have proved conclusively that the solid polythene drift card is durable.

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An Underwater Spectral Irradiance Collector, Raymond C. Smith Jan 1969

An Underwater Spectral Irradiance Collector, Raymond C. Smith

Journal of Marine Research

The design, testing, and evaluation of the accuracy of a collector for measuring underwater spectral irradiance is the subject of this paper. A successful underwater irradiance collector is described. Emphasis is placed on the experimental techniques employed in testing its collecting properties and in measuring the immersion effect so that its accuracy can be estimated....

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Naviface, Oxyty, And Epichthon: Words Versus Terms, John Lyman Jan 1969

Naviface, Oxyty, And Epichthon: Words Versus Terms, John Lyman

Journal of Marine Research

The suggestions by R. B. Mongomery (1969) concerning the need for new words in marine research raise in my mind the question of whether in fact it is new words or new terms that are necessary. By coining new words, are we not in danger of surrounding our discipline with a jargon that, while it may facilitate slightly communication among insiders, restricts to a greater extent communication with those in other fields?....

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Redefinition Of Salinity, Warren S. Wooster, Arthur J. Lee, Gunter Dietrich Jan 1969

Redefinition Of Salinity, Warren S. Wooster, Arthur J. Lee, Gunter Dietrich

Journal of Marine Research

Two definitions of salinity have been in use since the early part of the present century (Knudsen 1901, Forch et al. 1902). According to the procedural definition, salinity is the amount (in grams) of dissolved solid material in a kilogram of seawater after all the bromine has been replaced by an equivalent quantity of chlorine, after all the carbonate has been converted to oxide, and after all of the organic matter has been destroyed....

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The Use Of Moire Fringes In Laboratory Oceanography, D. James Baker Jr. Jan 1969

The Use Of Moire Fringes In Laboratory Oceanography, D. James Baker Jr.

Journal of Marine Research

The purpose of this note is to present a sketch of the inexpensive Moire fringe technique, which provides a quick and easy visualization of concentration gradients and which can be used for quantitative measurements….

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Influence Of The Amazon River Outflow On The Ecology Of The Western Tropical Atlantic. Iii. The Planktonic Flora Between The Amazon River And The Windward Island, E. M. Hulburt, Nathaniel Corwin Jan 1969

Influence Of The Amazon River Outflow On The Ecology Of The Western Tropical Atlantic. Iii. The Planktonic Flora Between The Amazon River And The Windward Island, E. M. Hulburt, Nathaniel Corwin

Journal of Marine Research

An abundant diatomaceous flora was observed in shallow waters along the coasts of French Guiana and Dutch Guiana during the fall of 1964 and the spring of 1965. In the fall, these diatoms were apparently carried far beyond the continental shelf by the Amazon effluent, which crossed the northwestward Guiana Current and became entrained in a southeastward countercurrent....

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Description Of A Freely Dropped Instrument For Measuring Current Velocity, William S. Richardson, Allan R. Carr, Henry J. White Jan 1969

Description Of A Freely Dropped Instrument For Measuring Current Velocity, William S. Richardson, Allan R. Carr, Henry J. White

Journal of Marine Research

A new form of freely dropped instrument for current-velocity measurements is described. Operational procedures for using the instrument and its auxiliary equipment are given.

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Comparison Between Wind Waves At Sea And In The Laboratory, G. D. Hess, G. M. Hidy, E. J. Plate Jan 1969

Comparison Between Wind Waves At Sea And In The Laboratory, G. D. Hess, G. M. Hidy, E. J. Plate

Journal of Marine Research

Correlations between laboratory and geophysical data are presented for certain statistical properties of wind waves. The parameters chosen include: (i) relationships between wave height and the height of the highest one-third or one-tenth waves, as given by a Rayleigh probability distribution, and (ii) amplitude spectra for waves, as given by Phillips' equilibrium theory. The correlation between laboratory results and geophysical data is satisfactory over a wide range of wave size.

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Geostrophy And Direct Measurements In The Straits Of Florida, Saul Broida Jan 1969

Geostrophy And Direct Measurements In The Straits Of Florida, Saul Broida

Journal of Marine Research

Quantitative agreement between geostrophic computations and direct measurements of current and transport in the Straits of Florida, and elsewhere as well, is found only when observations are made under synoptic conditions. Under other conditions, geostrophic computations often show a multiaxial structure (i.e., bands of current) not found with direct measurements; this apparent multiaxial structure could be caused largely by periodic disturbances related to the tides....

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Deep Water Properties And Flow In The Central North Pacific, R. K. Reed Jan 1969

Deep Water Properties And Flow In The Central North Pacific, R. K. Reed

Journal of Marine Research

Values of potential temperature, salinity, and dissolved oxygen at deep levels in the central North Pacific are presented and discussed, and the direction of flow is inferred. Deep water from the south appears to spread into the northern region by way of a western route rather than directly through the central region.

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Analyses Of Coccolith Ooze From The Deep Tropical Atlantic, Geoffrey Thompson, Vaughan T. Bowen Jan 1969

Analyses Of Coccolith Ooze From The Deep Tropical Atlantic, Geoffrey Thompson, Vaughan T. Bowen

Journal of Marine Research

Analyses of samples from a 200-cm core of coccolith ooze from the deep tropical Atlantic (00° 07'S, 17° 34'W) show it to be uniformly composed of low-magnesium calcite. The levels of most trace elements were found to be low for pelagic marine carbonate sediments.

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The Words Naviface And Oxyty, R. B. Montgomery Jan 1969

The Words Naviface And Oxyty, R. B. Montgomery

Journal of Marine Research

It is amazing that English-speaking scientists and seamen have muddled along without a noun for the all-important interface between atmosphere and ocean, sometimes designated with the phrase "air-sea interface," more often with the vague phrase "sea surface." For clarity and economy of expression, a single word is needed for this floor of the atmosphere and ceiling of the ocean....

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On The Roles Of Vertical Velocity And Eddy Conductivity In Maintaining A Thermocline, Roy Overstreet, Maurice Rattray Jr. Jan 1969

On The Roles Of Vertical Velocity And Eddy Conductivity In Maintaining A Thermocline, Roy Overstreet, Maurice Rattray Jr.

Journal of Marine Research

Steady-state solutions of the vertical heat-balance equation have been obtained for various assumed vertical profiles of the vertical component of velocity and eddy conductivity. Relationships have been found for the depth and the thickness of the thermocline in terms of parameters that characterize the vertical velocity and eddy conductivity. Two of the solutions agree with observations in regions having respectively divergent and convergent Ekman mass transport.

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Comparison Of The Hydrographic Structure Of Equatorial Waters North Of New Guinea And At 170°E, Philippe Hisard, Yves Magnier, Bruno Wauthy Jan 1969

Comparison Of The Hydrographic Structure Of Equatorial Waters North Of New Guinea And At 170°E, Philippe Hisard, Yves Magnier, Bruno Wauthy

Journal of Marine Research

The Equatorial Undercurrent was observed from March through August 1967 on a transect along 170°E during five cruises of the R. V. CORIOLIS. The velocity structure changed markedly from cruise to cruise….

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Concentrations Of Mn, Co, Cu, Fe, And Zn In The Northern Indian Ocean And Arabian Sea, Graham Topping Jan 1969

Concentrations Of Mn, Co, Cu, Fe, And Zn In The Northern Indian Ocean And Arabian Sea, Graham Topping

Journal of Marine Research

Samples of seawater from the Indian Ocean (RRS DISCOVERY Sts. 5102-5206) and the Arabian Sea (Sts. 5077-5094), obtained in 1962 through 1964 with N.I.O. sampling bottles, have been analyzed for Mn, Co, Cu, Fe, and Zn. This investigation has indicated that, in the northwestern Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea, higher values of these trace elements are found in the surface layers compared with the bottom layer and that there is a tendency for these trace elements to decrease in concentration with depth....

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Evaporation In The Laboratory And At Sea, Allen H. Schooley Jan 1969

Evaporation In The Laboratory And At Sea, Allen H. Schooley

Journal of Marine Research

A short-fetch water-wind tunnel has been used to measure the evaporation rate for wind velocities between 200 and 800 cm/sec and for three water-air temperature differences. Sverdrup's assumption of a molecular diffusion sublayer at the naviface bas been used to compare laboratory evaporation measurements with existing measurements at sea....

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Wave Directions From A Large Spar Buoy, Philip Rudnick Jan 1969

Wave Directions From A Large Spar Buoy, Philip Rudnick

Journal of Marine Research

A set of 50 directional spectra of surface waves in the North Pacific Ocean, covering a 26-day period in September 1963, has been derived from pressure and acceleration sensors attached to the manned spar buoy, FLIP, located near 39° 20'N, 148° 30'W. Results are given as ampiitudes and directions associated with the first two harmonics of the directional distribution. New analyses enabling full interpretation of these parameters are also presented.

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Some Measurements Of The Directional Wave Spectrum, J. A. Ewing Jan 1969

Some Measurements Of The Directional Wave Spectrum, J. A. Ewing

Journal of Marine Research

A sequence of ten records of the directional wave spectrum has been obtained from the motions of a floating buoy located at 56° 45'N, 18° 57'W. The records were taken to check the results derived from a numerical scheme for forecasting ocean waves in the North Atlantic....

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Two Temperature-Compensated Thermistor Current Meters For Use In Marine Ecology, Helmut Forstner, Klaus Rützler Jan 1969

Two Temperature-Compensated Thermistor Current Meters For Use In Marine Ecology, Helmut Forstner, Klaus Rützler

Journal of Marine Research

Small bead thermistors of the type commonly used for temperature measurement can be adapted for use as current probes in liquid or gaseous media. The small size, the rapid response, and the sensitivity of such probes make them well suited for the study of water movement as a microclimatic factor in marine and limnic habitats....

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Low Sea-Surface Salinity Off Northeastern South America In Summer 1964, John D. Cochrane Jan 1969

Low Sea-Surface Salinity Off Northeastern South America In Summer 1964, John D. Cochrane

Journal of Marine Research

Between 24 July and 10 September 1964, low sea-surface salinity was present off South America between 5°N and 100°N in the form of two partly merged tongues extending more than 600 n. mi. east of 50°W. Near 9°N, 50°W, a marked eastward flow was found and identified as the Equatorial Counter Current; it apparently brought in much of the freshened water encountered east of 50°W....

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Anomalous Temperature Of Bottom Water In The Panama Basin, Norman P. Laird Jan 1969

Anomalous Temperature Of Bottom Water In The Panama Basin, Norman P. Laird

Journal of Marine Research

In studies of basins along the western rim of the Pacific, Wyrtki (1961 a, b) found no significant differences in bottom potential temperature within individual basins….

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An Examination Of Marine Animals For The Presence Of Carbon-Bound Phosphorus, Louis D. Quin, Frank A. Shelburne Jan 1969

An Examination Of Marine Animals For The Presence Of Carbon-Bound Phosphorus, Louis D. Quin, Frank A. Shelburne

Journal of Marine Research

Thirty-one marine animals from nine different phyla were analyzed for the presence of carbon-bound phosphorus….

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