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A Note On The Averaged Momentum Balance In Two-Dimensional Water Waves, C. C. Mei Jan 1973

A Note On The Averaged Momentum Balance In Two-Dimensional Water Waves, C. C. Mei

Journal of Marine Research

For time-periodic two-dimensional water waves of small amplitude, it is shown that a static balance exists between the mean dynamic pressure force at the bottom, the gradient of the mean sea level, and the divergence of the radiation-stress tensor. The balance holds for quite arbitrary wave pattern and bottom variation so long as dissipation and steady currents are insignificant. This is the further generalization of a result obtained by Longuet-Higgins (1972) for the gradual refraction of a progressive wave where the bottom pressure is unimportant.


On The Determination Of Internal-Wave Directional Spectra From Moored Instruments, Friedrich Schott, Jürgen Willebrand Jan 1973

On The Determination Of Internal-Wave Directional Spectra From Moored Instruments, Friedrich Schott, Jürgen Willebrand

Journal of Marine Research

Presented here is a model for determining the characteristic parameters of an internalwave field using cross spectra of data obtained from vertically separated and/or horizontally separated moored instruments. The model is based on the assumption that the motion consists mainly of linear free internal waves having random phase relationships. The internalwave energy is supposed to be distributed among a finite number of modes having continuous directional distribution....


A Reply To Ben Yaakov And Kaplan's "Comments On 'Redox Potentials By Equilibration', By W. G. Breck", W. G. Breck Jan 1973

A Reply To Ben Yaakov And Kaplan's "Comments On 'Redox Potentials By Equilibration', By W. G. Breck", W. G. Breck

Journal of Marine Research

This note is a reply to Ben-Yaakov and Kaplan's (1973) comments on my paper (Breck 1972).


Comments On Johnson's Paper, "On The Wind-Driven Circulation Of A Stratified Ocean'', R. C. Alexander Jan 1973

Comments On Johnson's Paper, "On The Wind-Driven Circulation Of A Stratified Ocean'', R. C. Alexander

Journal of Marine Research

Johnson (1971) has made a useful contribution to ocean-circulation theory by establishing more definitely the role of the thermal structure in the larger context of the theory of wind-driven ocean circulations. However, serious objections should be raised to his treatment of the eastern-boundary region and to his results on coastal upwelling.


Wind-Swept Water Surface In Laboratory Cooled By Applying Heat, Allen H. Schooley Jan 1973

Wind-Swept Water Surface In Laboratory Cooled By Applying Heat, Allen H. Schooley

Journal of Marine Research

This experiment was performed in a 40-cm × 45-cm × 20-cm basin containing 16 cm of water. Wind was directed toward the water at one corner by means of a 16-cm-diameter blower 12 cm above the surface….


On The Eastern-Boundary Conditions For A Stratified Ocean, J. A. Johnson Jan 1973

On The Eastern-Boundary Conditions For A Stratified Ocean, J. A. Johnson

Journal of Marine Research

This note discusses the use of transport conditions at the eastern boundary in determining the interior flow in a stratified ocean.


Erratum And Errata, George Veronis, R. L. Snyder, Linda Smith Jan 1973

Erratum And Errata, George Veronis, R. L. Snyder, Linda Smith

Journal of Marine Research

ERRATUM in "On properties of seawater defined by temperature, salinity, and pressure," by George Veronis; Journal of Marine Research 30(2): 227–255. ERRATA in "On the estimation of surface gravity-wave fields in the vicinity of an array of wave recorders," by R. L. Snyder and Linda Smith; Journal of Marine Research 31(1): 51–60.


Covariance Equations For A Linear Sea, R. L. Snyder Jan 1973

Covariance Equations For A Linear Sea, R. L. Snyder

Journal of Marine Research

The equations governing the second-order covariances between surface gravity-wave field variables are derived for a linear sea. These equations are solved formally for two cases: the case of stationary homogeneous statistics and the case of quasistationary quasihomogeneous statistics....


On The Estimation Of Surface Gravity-Wave Fields In The Vicinity Of An Array Of Wave Recorders, R. L. Snyder, Linda Smith Jan 1973

On The Estimation Of Surface Gravity-Wave Fields In The Vicinity Of An Array Of Wave Recorders, R. L. Snyder, Linda Smith

Journal of Marine Research

The optimum estimator for a surface-wave field in the vicinity of an array of wave recorders is determined for a linear sea. Examples for a single-component and a four-component array are presented.


On Divergent Shelf Waves, V. T. Buchwald Jan 1973

On Divergent Shelf Waves, V. T. Buchwald

Journal of Marine Research

A dispersion relationship for divergent continental shelf waves on a shelf of exponential profile has been obtained. The dispersion curves calculated from this relationship are in good agreement with experimental results reported by Caldwell et al. (1972). In addition, a perturbation method has been used to obtain the first-order divergent correction to the dispersion curves of nondivergent shelf waves on a shelf of arbitrary profile....


Calcium Carbonate, Opal, And Quartz In Holocene Pelagic Sediments And The Calcite Compensation Level In The South Atlantic Ocean, David B. Ellis, T. C. Moore Jr. Jan 1973

Calcium Carbonate, Opal, And Quartz In Holocene Pelagic Sediments And The Calcite Compensation Level In The South Atlantic Ocean, David B. Ellis, T. C. Moore Jr.

Journal of Marine Research

Calcium carbonate is the dominant component in the pelagic sediments of the South Atlantic; its distribution pattern can be explained by use of bottom-water circulation. Biogenous opal concentrations occur in two bands, near the Equator and around 50°S; these concentrations are associated with zones of high biological productivity in surface waters....


A Numerical Tidal Model And Its Application To Cook Inlet, Alaska, J. Brian Matthews, J. Christian H. Mungall Jan 1972

A Numerical Tidal Model And Its Application To Cook Inlet, Alaska, J. Brian Matthews, J. Christian H. Mungall

Journal of Marine Research

A numerical scheme for predicting tides and tidal currents has been designed for rapid application to new situations with a minimum of effort. The model is two-dimensional and includes Coriolis and fric tional terms. An application to Cook Inlet, Alaska, is described for a tide having a period of 12.42 hours and an amplitude of one half the mean tidal range....


Radiation Stresses In Short-Crested Waves, J. A. Battjes Jan 1972

Radiation Stresses In Short-Crested Waves, J. A. Battjes

Journal of Marine Research

The radiation stresses in short-crested waves are expressed in terms of the two-dimensional energy spectrum of the wave elevation. It is shown that, for wind-driven waves, the short-crestedness has a considerable influence on the ratios of the radiation stresses to the average energy content of the waves per unit area.


Shallow-Water Strontium-90 Anomaly About The Antilles Arc----1970, Vaughan T. Bowen, W. G. Metcalf, John C. Burke Jan 1972

Shallow-Water Strontium-90 Anomaly About The Antilles Arc----1970, Vaughan T. Bowen, W. G. Metcalf, John C. Burke

Journal of Marine Research

Vertical profiles about the southeastern approaches to the Caribbean in early 1970 have shown a consistent Sr-90 inversion, with the maximum concentrations at depths of about room. It appears that four water masses may be involved, in this area, in a very complicated mixing and overlayering phenomenon.


On The Elliptic Generating Region Of A Tsunami, Pauline Van Den Driessche, R. D. Braddock Jan 1972

On The Elliptic Generating Region Of A Tsunami, Pauline Van Den Driessche, R. D. Braddock

Journal of Marine Research

The surface elevation is calculated for the three-dimensional motion of waves in a fluid of constant depth subject to a given bottom velocity. An example, modeling tsunami generation, with antisymmetric bottom velocity, is considered in detail. The amplitude of the wave front is found to decay much more rapidly than the main wave. The distribution of amplitude with wave number and with angular position is computed for some cases.


Johnston Atoll's Wake, Richard A. Barkley Jan 1972

Johnston Atoll's Wake, Richard A. Barkley

Journal of Marine Research

In February 1968, when the incident flow was 60 cm/sec toward the northwest, a wake resembling a von Kármán vortex street was present in the ocean downstream of Johnston Atoll (16°45'N, 169°31'W). In October 1968, when the incident flow was 15 to 20 cm/sec, no wake was detected....


Navifacial Temperature And Salinity Along The Track From Samoa To Hawaii, 1957–1965, Richard I. Hires, R. B. Montgomery Jan 1972

Navifacial Temperature And Salinity Along The Track From Samoa To Hawaii, 1957–1965, Richard I. Hires, R. B. Montgomery

Journal of Marine Research

The nine years of data used in the present study are the result of collaboration between the U.S. Bureau of Commercial Fisheries, Honolulu, and officers of MARIPOSA and MONTEREY of Matson Navigation Company….


Double Oxygen Minimum In The Southeastern Pacific Ocean, George C. Anderson Jan 1972

Double Oxygen Minimum In The Southeastern Pacific Ocean, George C. Anderson

Journal of Marine Research

Data from two cruises in the southeastern Pacific Ocean show a pronounced double minimum in the oxygen profiles. The patterns indicate that at these sections (110° to 130°W) there is an eastward flow at about 14°S, at depths greater than 500 m.


Whitecap Suppression By Cloud Shadows On The Potomac River, Allen H. Schooley Jan 1972

Whitecap Suppression By Cloud Shadows On The Potomac River, Allen H. Schooley

Journal of Marine Research

Whitecaps are often generated on the Potomac River near the Naval Research Laboratory by wind fields associated with the passage of cold fronts. When the fronts clear the air so that sunshine prevails during the morning hour, usually about midday scattered cumulus clouds begin to appear....


The Temporal Structure Of Oceanic Motion Off The Oregon Coast, Northeastern Pacific, 1969, Toshitsugu Sakou, Steve Neshyba Jan 1972

The Temporal Structure Of Oceanic Motion Off The Oregon Coast, Northeastern Pacific, 1969, Toshitsugu Sakou, Steve Neshyba

Journal of Marine Research

Current measurements collected from an array of moored buoy stations off the coast of Oregon from April through November 1969 have been used to study the spatial and temporal structure of oceanic currents over the continental slope in the northeastern part of the Pacific....


Comments On "Ocean Spectra For The High-Frequency Waves As Determined From Airborne Radar Measurements", A. E. Strong Jan 1972

Comments On "Ocean Spectra For The High-Frequency Waves As Determined From Airborne Radar Measurements", A. E. Strong

Journal of Marine Research

Valenzuela et al. (1971) have discussed some interesting results relating radar backscatter to the gravity-capillary region of the ocean-wave spectrum. While they have attempted to relate their observed backscatter power to the wind speed, they have neglected to report the height above the surface at which these winds were observed....


Diel Migration Of Sound Scatterers Into, And Out Of, The Cariaco Trench Anoxic Water, Donald F. Wilson Jan 1972

Diel Migration Of Sound Scatterers Into, And Out Of, The Cariaco Trench Anoxic Water, Donald F. Wilson

Journal of Marine Research

Acoustic measurements at 25 kHz show that a well-defined sound-scattering layer in the Cariaco Trench migrates down in the early morning to the oxic-anoxic interface and splits into two components: one remains in oxygen-deficient water above the interface; the other penetrates several hundred meters into the anoxic hydrogen sulfide- and methane-containing region of the water column....


A Technique For The Direct Measurements Of Ocean Currents From Aircraft, William S. Richardson, Henry J. White Jr., Laszlo Nemeth Jan 1972

A Technique For The Direct Measurements Of Ocean Currents From Aircraft, William S. Richardson, Henry J. White Jr., Laszlo Nemeth

Journal of Marine Research

A method for measuring surface and subsurface ocean currents from aircraft is described. Comparisons of measurements using this technique with those obtained from a ship are given and applications are discussed.


A Vertical Profile Of Deep Horizontal Current Near Cape Lookout, North Carolina, T. E. Pochapsky, F. D. Malone Jan 1972

A Vertical Profile Of Deep Horizontal Current Near Cape Lookout, North Carolina, T. E. Pochapsky, F. D. Malone

Journal of Marine Research

The acoustic transit times for a float to sink to a bottom-anchored triangular array of disposable transponders are used to construct a horizontal current profile in the anticyclonic shear region of the Gulf Stream, southeast of Cape Lookout, North Carolina....


A Device For Collecting In-Situ Samples Of Suspended Sediment For Microscopic Analysis, J. R. Schubel, E. W. Schiemer Jan 1972

A Device For Collecting In-Situ Samples Of Suspended Sediment For Microscopic Analysis, J. R. Schubel, E. W. Schiemer

Journal of Marine Research

An in-situ sampler for collecting small samples of suspended sediment for microscopic analysis bas been built and tested. The device rapidly freezes a thin layer of water entrapping all of the suspended particles in it; when the sampler is recovered, the disc of ice is placed on a suitable substrate and freeze-dried. The particles can then be examined in an undisturbed state with a light microscope or with an electron microscope.


Estuarine Circulation Induced By Diffusion, Donald V. Hansen, Maurice Rattray Jr. Jan 1972

Estuarine Circulation Induced By Diffusion, Donald V. Hansen, Maurice Rattray Jr.

Journal of Marine Research

Similarity solutions of the equations for estuarine circulation and salt balance are presented for a circulation generated by diffusive modification of stratification maintained at the entrance to an inlet by external dynamics rather than by fresh water discharged directly into the inlet....


A Second Approximation To Mass Transport By Water Waves, J. F.A. Sleath Jan 1972

A Second Approximation To Mass Transport By Water Waves, J. F.A. Sleath

Journal of Marine Research

A second approximation, involving terms up to the fourth order in wave steepness, is developed for the mass-transport velocity in the laminar boundary layer above a smooth bed under the action of progressive waves in water of constant depth. Discrepancies between the previous theory and experiment are shown to be due to neglect of these higher-order terms and not to the influence of turbulence, as has been supposed.


Determination Of Phosphate In Seawater By An Isobutyl-Acetate-Extraction Procedure, Paul Pakalns, Blanka R. Mcallister Jan 1972

Determination Of Phosphate In Seawater By An Isobutyl-Acetate-Extraction Procedure, Paul Pakalns, Blanka R. Mcallister

Journal of Marine Research

This paper describes methods for determining the quantity of inorganic phosphate and total phosphorus in seawater by extracting the molybdophosphoric acid with isobutyl acetate and by then reducing the solution to heteropoly blue. Arsenic and silicate in amounts ordinarily encountered in seawater do not interfere.


The Production Of Surface-Active Material By Marine Phytoplankton Cultures, W. B. Wilson, Albert Collier Jan 1972

The Production Of Surface-Active Material By Marine Phytoplankton Cultures, W. B. Wilson, Albert Collier

Journal of Marine Research

The production of surface-active materials (surfactants) by axenic cultures of five marine diatoms, a dinoflagellate, and a coccolithophorid (all grown in uniform culture conditions) was determined by measuring the volume and stability of the foam produced by shaking....


Some Model Experiments On Continental Shelf Waves, D. R. Caldwell, D. L. Cutchin, M. S. Longuet-Higgins Jan 1972

Some Model Experiments On Continental Shelf Waves, D. R. Caldwell, D. L. Cutchin, M. S. Longuet-Higgins

Journal of Marine Research

This paper describes some model experiments that verify the theoretical form of continental shelf waves. Both the dispersion relationship and the positions of the orbital gyres are confirmed. The existence of a maximum frequency for each mode, with a corresponding zero group velocity, may be of significance for field observations.