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2012

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“Without Being Obliged To Send 3000 Miles For The Cloth”: The American Wool Industry, 1789-1815, Deb Fuller, Ann Buermann Wass Sep 2012

“Without Being Obliged To Send 3000 Miles For The Cloth”: The American Wool Industry, 1789-1815, Deb Fuller, Ann Buermann Wass

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Great Britain discouraged her American colonies from manufacturing textiles as she wanted that market for her own goods. Even after the United States won independence, Americans bought British products, including fine wool fabrics for men's wear, as home production could not meet demand. George Washington, however, made a political statement by wearing a suit of domestically-manufactured wool broadcloth for his 1789 inauguration. His Secretary of the Treasury, Alexander Hamilton, saw the need to wean Americans from foreign manufactures. He therefore encouraged Congress to enact tariffs on imported fabrics to stimulate domestic manufacturing and raise revenue. (Hamilton's policies sowed the seeds …

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Locally Grown & Sustainable Textiles: Exploring Current Possibilities, Faith Hagenhofer Sep 2012

Locally Grown & Sustainable Textiles: Exploring Current Possibilities, Faith Hagenhofer

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Whether one speaks of food, energy, or - as here - textiles, conversations on "sustainability", a term that has been used to describe a conflicting array of methods and materials, have been expanding. The food activist movement has coined the term, "local", equating high quality foodstuffs with small carbon footprint. This borrowed term in the textile world often refers to locally assembly from imported materials. Together, "local and sustainable" must refer to specific places. I use my farm as an example. 20 Years ago I began working with hand felted wool as an art medium. For six years farming and …

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A Silent Textile Trade War: Batik Revival As Economic And Political Weapon In 17th Century Java, Ruurdje Laarhoven Sep 2012

A Silent Textile Trade War: Batik Revival As Economic And Political Weapon In 17th Century Java, Ruurdje Laarhoven

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Sultan Agung of the highly respected Javanese inland agrarian state of Mataram, first had sought the assistance of the Dutch in an attempt to expand his commercial interests. The Dutch declined. This was a major offense to the Indonesian ruler and made the Sultan very angry. It was made even worse when the sultan twice failed to seize Batavia in the late 1620s to dislodge the hated Dutch. From that time onwards a silent war began which lasted throughout the 17th century. Since local rulers and their men could not fight Dutch might, retaliation was instigated by the wife of …

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My Journey Of Knitting Wildlife, Ruth Marshall Sep 2012

My Journey Of Knitting Wildlife, Ruth Marshall

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This artist hand knits interpretations of exotic animals endangered by the illegal pelt trade. Each of her one-of-a-kind textiles represents an individual animal she spends months researching. This work brings attention to illegal wildlife trade and species loss in a way that unites a new, widened audience of scientists, art enthusiasts and the general public. Her textile pelts exemplify how artisan goods have the potential to have higher commercial value than a poached skin on the black market. The result would be a paradigm shift of the incentive in wildlife trade, which is the third largest illegal trade in the …

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The Shoso-In Textiles Of The Era Of Emperor Shomu, Atsuhiko Ogata Sep 2012

The Shoso-In Textiles Of The Era Of Emperor Shomu, Atsuhiko Ogata

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The textile collection of the Shoso-in, the treasure house in Nara, Japan represents the history of the textiles of the Nara Period (8th century A.D.) It has been stored under the auspices of the Imperial Household Agency in the special facility since the 8th century, when the collection was first organized. The textiles in the collection provide a full picture of Japanese textiles of the period, and come from several sources. These include the textiles from the daily life of Emperor Shomu (reigned 724-749) donated by the Empress Komyo after his death, the textiles used for the ceremony of the …

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The Mamluk Kaaba Curtain In The Bursa Grand Mosque, Sumiyo Okumura Sep 2012

The Mamluk Kaaba Curtain In The Bursa Grand Mosque, Sumiyo Okumura

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A Kaaba curtain is a door curtain which covers the door of the holy Kaaba, the most sacred site of Islam in Mecca. Upon the occasion of the conquest of Egypt and Hejaz by Sultan Selim I in 1517, Selim I donated a Kaaba door curtain to the Bursa Grand Mosque, one of the five most important mosques in the Islamic World. This Mamluk curtain is very different from Ottoman Kaaba curtains in both its shape and design motifs. It is noticeable that five fragments, including a piece of inscription, hang down from the upper border. We see a similar …

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An Andean Colonial Woman’S Mantle: The New World And Its Global Networks., Elena Phipps Sep 2012

An Andean Colonial Woman’S Mantle: The New World And Its Global Networks., Elena Phipps

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A Colonial Andean tapestry in The Metropolitan Museum of Art, with its central field filled with European-style scrolling designs, a central motif attributed to a misunderstood Asian phoenix or dragons, border imagery that combines Old Testament biblical references and Andean women wearing their traditional llicllas (shoulder mantles) and acsus (wrapped dresses) and Renaissance grotesque creatures exuding from the corners, has it all. The intersecting meanings between the religious, cultural, social and political elements of a global world that is linked through trade and exchange in the 16th- 18th centuries is manifest in the design and technique of this unique and …

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Anticipating The Silk Road; Some Thoughts On The Wool-Murex Connection In Tyre, Jane Schneider Sep 2012

Anticipating The Silk Road; Some Thoughts On The Wool-Murex Connection In Tyre, Jane Schneider

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Taking a lead from John Murra's well-known 1950s argument for the importance of textiles to Inka rulers' power, wealth, and capacity for expansion, this essay considers the possible role of "textile rivalries" among the urban centers of the Bronze Age Eastern Mediterranean as they maneuvered for position in a "world system" of communication and exchange. A brief comparative overview suggests several variables that elevate a cloth tradition to exceptional reputation and prestige -- the kind and quality of fiber, labor-intensive refinements in spinning and weaving, the range and saturation of colors, the iconography and aesthetics of pre- and postloom decoration. …

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Marie Watt's Forget-Me-Not: Stitched In Wool, A More Human War Memorial, Rebecca Head Trautmann Sep 2012

Marie Watt's Forget-Me-Not: Stitched In Wool, A More Human War Memorial, Rebecca Head Trautmann

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In large wall tapestries, towering blanket stacks, small stitched samplers, and complex installations, Marie Watt explores the personal and collective memories embodied in wool blankets. The artist employs old blankets that are worn with use, faded in color, and stretched out of shape to evoke memories of the many ways blankets comfort and protect us from birth until death. Forget-Me-Not: Mothers and Sons (2008) is an installation piece conceived in response to Watt's dissatisfaction with media coverage of the Iraq and Afghanistan wars, and the young lives lost in combat. Desiring to personalize and humanize the stories of soldiers killed …

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The Twenty-First Century Voices Of The Ashanti Adinkra And Kente Cloths Of Ghana, Carol Ventura Sep 2012

The Twenty-First Century Voices Of The Ashanti Adinkra And Kente Cloths Of Ghana, Carol Ventura

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Craft production and use are continually adapting to meet the needs of consumers and the market in order to survive. The Adinkra and Kente cloths of Ghana are no exception, having maintained their visibility and viability by addressing changing and challenging economic and political realities. Fabric strips are sewn together to produce rectangular Adinkra and Kente cloths that are wrapped around human bodies in styles determined by gender and rank. These cloths are not only beautiful, but communicate as well. Old and new symbols representing proverbs, beliefs, and politics are woven into Kente and printed onto Adinkra cloths. Commemorative fabrics …

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Art And Politics: Contemporary Arpilleras, Flora Zárate Sep 2012

Art And Politics: Contemporary Arpilleras, Flora Zárate

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In explaining connections between art and politics in my arpilleras (appliquÈ pictures), I discuss themes drawn from my life, my relatives' and other Peruvians' lives, and the experiences of fellow immigrants in the United States. In Alcamenca (Ayacucho, Peru), where I was born, we inherit from our ancestors the arts of spinning, weaving and sewing. In our isolated town, we lived from raising animals, agriculture, and textile production, and by barter except at the weekly market. As a child I wanted to leave, when people returned from the city for fiestas, with new clothes and jewelry. Later we did follow …

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The Changing Politics Of Textiles As Portrayed On Somali Postage Stamps, Heather Marie Akou Sep 2012

The Changing Politics Of Textiles As Portrayed On Somali Postage Stamps, Heather Marie Akou

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

When Somalia became an independent nation in 1960, the change in power was celebrated with new postage stamps. Departing from the royal portraits and vague images of "natives" favored by their colonizers, Somalis chose to circulate detailed images of local plants, animals, artisanal products, and beautiful young women in wrapped fabrics. In the early 1960s, these images were fairly accurate representations of contemporary fashions. Over the next twenty years, with a few notable exceptions, these images became more romanticized focusing on the folk dress worn by nomads in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. Confronting drought, corruption, and economic …

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Iberian Carpets, Wool, And The Making Of Modern Spain, Carol Bier Sep 2012

Iberian Carpets, Wool, And The Making Of Modern Spain, Carol Bier

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Carpets of the Iberian Peninsula, woven in the 15th and 16th centuries, represent diverse cultural traditions at a time of great political transformation. With the fall of Granada in 1492, Christian dominion was firmly reestablished. Despite radical shifts in patronage from Muslim to Christian in previous centuries, the weaving of carpets with wool pile seems to have flourished in established production centers. Following the Arab and Berber conquests of Andalusia in the early 8th century, there is scant evidence for rug-weaving but a significant group of carpets survives from the 15th century, which stylistically reflects earlier traditions of carpet-weaving from …

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The Abduction Of Helen: A Western Theme In A Chinese Embroidery Of The First Half Of The Seventeenth Century, Joyce Denney Sep 2012

The Abduction Of Helen: A Western Theme In A Chinese Embroidery Of The First Half Of The Seventeenth Century, Joyce Denney

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The theme of the Trojan War has a long history in works of European tapestry, with examples surviving from the fourteenth century onward. With the rise of European powers in the global trade of the sixteenth century, the Trojan War went global, too. A large embroidered and painted hanging on this theme from the late sixteenth century is in the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. In this paper, The Abduction of Helen, part of a series on the theme of the Trojan War, will be discussed in detail; comparative works, both Chinese and European, will also be shown. …

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Thangchhuah Puan: The Highest Status Mantle Among The Mizo People Of Northeastern India, Barbara G. Fraser, David W. Fraser Sep 2012

Thangchhuah Puan: The Highest Status Mantle Among The Mizo People Of Northeastern India, Barbara G. Fraser, David W. Fraser

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Mizo are a large sub-group of the Chin (also known as the Zo, Lai or Kuki), a loosely related group of two million people living in the hills of western Myanmar (Burma), northeastern India, and southeastern Bangladesh. The Mizo strive to attain merit through success in hunting, war, accumulation of wealth, and communal feast giving involving a series of five separate feasts. A Mizo man who has either hosted two complete series of five communal feasts or killed an entire series of wild animals attains the greatest merit and is known as Thangchhuahpa. Such men were held in high …

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The Politics Of Pastoralism: Navajos, Churras And The Challenges Of Sustainability In A Globalizing World, Kathy A. M'Closkey Sep 2012

The Politics Of Pastoralism: Navajos, Churras And The Challenges Of Sustainability In A Globalizing World, Kathy A. M'Closkey

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Navajos, or Dine', were dramatically affected by rapid changes in two of the three largest post- Civil War domestic industries: agriculture and textiles. In my 2010 TSA paper, I revealed how changes in the wool tariff triggered an escalation in textile production by thousands of Navajo weavers, as traders sought ways to market the unstandardized wool clip. Another under researched aspect of Navajo history concerns how the federal government's haphazard attempts in up-breeding Navajo flocks to national market standards triggered a failed development policy, resulting in the reduction of one-half their livestock during the Depression. For sixty years the government …

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History Under Foot: Politics, Patriotism, And The “Liberty Rug”, Amy Poff Sep 2012

History Under Foot: Politics, Patriotism, And The “Liberty Rug”, Amy Poff

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In January 1918 President Woodrow Wilson was given a Karnak Wilton carpet woven by the Shuttleworth Brothers Company of Amsterdam, New York, and inspired in part by the Statue of Liberty lighting ceremony he officiated in 1916. Featuring at its center the Statue of Liberty, surrounded by symbols of America's past and present, the rug remained at the White House throughout Wilson's presidency. Presented shortly after America's entrance into World War I and just weeks after Wilson's now-famous "Fourteen Points" speech, this "Liberty Rug" provided a symbolic narrative of the triumph of American progress while serving as physical proof of …

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A Wari Tapestry Textile In A Tiwanaku Tomb From The Osmore Valley, Moquegua, Peru, Amy Oakland Sep 2012

A Wari Tapestry Textile In A Tiwanaku Tomb From The Osmore Valley, Moquegua, Peru, Amy Oakland

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the Andes, ancient textiles have been discovered in abundance in the elite tombs of royal personages. The arid climate particular to the coast of Peru and northern Chile has preserved outstanding collections of these textiles. Exquisite textiles at the site of Chimu Capac in the Supe Valley on Peru's central coast were discovered in the beginning of the twentieth century by German archaeologist Max Uhle sponsored by Californian Phoebe Hearst. Many of the artifacts from Chimu Capac attest to elite status and the site may have been a burial ground for Wari administrators or even perhaps Wari royals in …

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Challenging The Politics Of Creating Art In The 21st Century: An Artist/Educator's Perspective, Claire Campbell Park Sep 2012

Challenging The Politics Of Creating Art In The 21st Century: An Artist/Educator's Perspective, Claire Campbell Park

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The politics of creating art pertains to assumptions relating to a given cultural sphere or theory that are concerned with power and status in society. From the perspective of an artist and educator, I will question prevalent assumptions in the contemporary culture of making and teaching art, and present alternative approaches inspired by textile artists from diverse cultures. What makes art "strong" - must we assume attitudes and mediums traditionally in the male domain? Are art students encouraged to "fit in" to the current scene, as opposed to developing their own creative integrity? Does "pushing the envelope" necessarily mean "beyond …

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Textiles' Treasure From Jericho Cave 38 In The Qarantal Cliff Compared To Other Early Medieval Sites In Israel, Orit Shamir, Alisa Baginski Sep 2012

Textiles' Treasure From Jericho Cave 38 In The Qarantal Cliff Compared To Other Early Medieval Sites In Israel, Orit Shamir, Alisa Baginski

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

768 textile fragments were discovered at a cave near Jericho, Israel. They display a remarkable variety of materials (silk, cotton, linen, wool and goat-hair) and techniques suggesting their diverse geographical origins. Most significant are the silk fragments made in various techniques, some of them requiring sophisticated looms, and a large group of textiles with S-spun linen warps and Z-spun cotton wefts which is unique to the site. Most of these fragments were parts of clothing (e.g. trousers, tunics, coifs). Others could be recognized as bags, wrappers and strips for tying. Why was such a large quantity of used textiles stored …

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Textiles And Politics – Dishtowels And Diatribes, Carol D. Westfall Sep 2012

Textiles And Politics – Dishtowels And Diatribes, Carol D. Westfall

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

When a Dutch curator invited my students and me to join an international group of felt makers to create felt balls for peace, I sent mine to them encased in barbed wire. My life has been marked by war. My Dad fought in the Second World War, my high school colleagues in the Korean War and those who returned joined me as freshmen in college. My husband served in Vietnam and various acquaintances in my hometown of Jersey City, New Jersey served in the first Gulf War and now serve in Afghanistan and Iraq. At age 4, I was so …

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Textile Society Of America- Abstracts And Biographies Sep 2012

Textile Society Of America- Abstracts And Biographies

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

TSA Abstracts and Biographies, September 2012.

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Book Review, Ray Zimmerman Sep 2012

Book Review, Ray Zimmerman

The Migrant - Tennessee Ornithological Society

No abstract provided.

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Parkinson's Disease In The Mouse: Valid And Invalid Models For Future Use, Jennifer Aeling, Matthew Weber, Richard Deyo Sep 2012

Parkinson's Disease In The Mouse: Valid And Invalid Models For Future Use, Jennifer Aeling, Matthew Weber, Richard Deyo

Student Research and Creative Projects 2012-2013

“Parkinson’s Disease (PD) is a neurodegenerative disorder affecting approximately 1% of elderly Americans that results from progressive loss of dopaminergic neurons. Common motor symptoms of PD include resting tremor, rigidity, bradykinesia or akinesia and postural instability” (Zesiewicz et al., 2009). “Almost all patients with PD have non-motor and neuropsychiatric features, including sleep disturbances, compulsive and impulsive behaviors, autonomic dysfunction and psychosis” (Fernandez, 2012). In the years to come, as the average age increases the amount of PD patients will also increase due to the late onset of most PD cases. As the amount of PD cases caused by environmental factors …

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Determining The Correlation Between Helminth Parasite Prevalence In Wisconsin Felis Rufus Populations, Heather Gakev, Sara Eberhardt, Shalin Ranjitkar, Amber Schultze Sep 2012

Determining The Correlation Between Helminth Parasite Prevalence In Wisconsin Felis Rufus Populations, Heather Gakev, Sara Eberhardt, Shalin Ranjitkar, Amber Schultze

Student Research and Creative Projects 2012-2013

Felis rufus (bobcat) populations are declining throughout some of their range in Wisconsin, while expanding in others (Personal Communication, WI DNR)1. Many theories exist as to why this is happening, including the possibility of disease. Our lab wanted to determine the helminth parasite population prevalence and intensity in Wisconsin bobcat and determine if there was a correlation with sex, age or geographic location of these animals. One hundred and fifteen bobcat intestines were collected March 5, 2012 at a Department of Natural Resources (DNR) Facility, Madison, WI. These animals were legally harvested by trapping/hunting and the carcasses were made available …

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A Ketamine Model Of Schizophrenia, Gareth Harman, Richard Deyo Sep 2012

A Ketamine Model Of Schizophrenia, Gareth Harman, Richard Deyo

Student Research and Creative Projects 2012-2013

Schizophrenia is a pervasive mental disorder than greatly reduces the quality of life of the sufferers. Ketamine is an anesthetic and a NMDA receptor antagonist. The “high” from abusing ketamine results in a dissociative state that closely resembles many of the symptoms of schizophrenia. Many researchers are using ketamine to “induce” the behavioral symptoms of schizophrenia in order to better study the disease. Through this research I am attempting to validate whether the ketamine model of schizophrenia also models the neurochemistry of the disorder that is critical for use in the development of new drug interventions. Recently scientists have discovered …

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The Legality Of Drilling Sideways: Horizontal Drilling And Its Future In West Virginia, Jason A. Proctor Sep 2012

The Legality Of Drilling Sideways: Horizontal Drilling And Its Future In West Virginia, Jason A. Proctor

West Virginia Law Review

No abstract provided.

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The Texas Caver, Volume 58, No. 3, September 2012, Jill Orr Sep 2012

The Texas Caver, Volume 58, No. 3, September 2012, Jill Orr

The Texas Caver

Contents: From the Editor - Remembering Nick - First Time Into Fern - Trip Report - Years of TCR Tees - Texas Caver Reunion 2012 - Fischer’s Fissure - Caver in the Headlamp - The Big Blow - Longhorn Cavern

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Utah Science Vol. 66 Sep 2012

Utah Science Vol. 66

Utah Science

Utah Science, a publication of the Utah Agricultural Experiment Station at Utah State University

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Juliet Christian-Smith & Peter H. Gleick, A Twenty-First Century U.S. Water Policy, Davis Wert Sep 2012

Juliet Christian-Smith & Peter H. Gleick, A Twenty-First Century U.S. Water Policy, Davis Wert

Water Law Review

No abstract provided.

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