Digital Commons Network^™

Textiles Recorded: Fashion Reconstructed Through Aztec Codices, Jennifer E. Siegler

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The historical documentation of the use of textiles during the Aztec empire as tribute offerings and sumptuary laws indicates the elevated role of textiles at the time. Yet, further research is warranted on the artistry of these textiles. This is difficult because the climate of central Mexico is not conducive to preserving fiber materials; fortunately, the rich manuscripts of this region preserve many images of textiles created during the Aztec empire. Early colonial manuscripts, many of which are copies of pre-conquest manuscripts no longer extant, preserve images of textiles from the pre-conquest period. These manuscripts provide invaluable information regarding the …

Kākahu As Cultural Identity, Christina Hurihia Wirihana

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Discussion will begin with my interpretation of this whakatauaki (proverb.) I liken the centre shoot of the flax bush to the kaitiaki (guardian of weaving knowledge) referencing the creation of Kākahu, the traditional cloak and customary dress of Maori people. Nurture this (the flaxbush) and it will flourish for many generations. The sustanibility of the flaxbush will ensure a constant supply of natural fibres required to create Kākahu.

The kaitiaki will inspire the singing birds and witness the weavers nimble fingers engaging the aho (weft thread) and whenu (warp thread), when forming the kaupapa or foundation of a Kākahu. …

Prosperity, Longevity, And “Happily Ever-After”: Symbolism And The Sophistication Of Implication In Japanese E-Gasuri (Picture Ikat) Textiles, Ann Marie Moeller

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores the elegant indirectness that certain e-gasuri patterns exhibit while using traditional symbols to express familiar Japanese sayings and concepts. E-gasuri is the Japanese word for fabrics patterned with pictures created with the ikat resist dying technique. Kasuri essentially means ikat. Kasuri becomes gasuri in the compound word e-gasuri. E means picture. The ikat technique of dying threads before they are woven produces images with blurred outlines. This blurred appearance is a treasured aspect of the e-gasuri aesthetic. E-gasuri is usually (but not exclusively) associated today with indigo resist dyed blue and white cotton and …

Iowa Or Dye! Natural Dyes As American Craft And Horticulture, Sara J. Kadolph

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Natural dyes are colorants derived from specific items found in the natural environment: plants, insects, animals, and minerals. A natural material that produces a dye is called a dyestuff. For example, the dye, madder, is extracted from madder dyestuff, the roots of a sprawling perennial, Rubia tinctorum. Many natural dyes require a mordant to permanently bond with a fiber. Mordants are usually chemical salts such as ferrous sulfate or aluminum potassium sulfate that form a bridge between the dye and the fiber. Natural dyes can be processed in several ways, including one or more water based extractions of the …

Documentary Film Presentation Local Colors: Natural Dyeing In A Milas Carpet Weaving Village, Ulara Tamura, John Wells

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This documentary, filmed in 2006, examines the process of naturally dyed carpet production in a village in the Milas region of Muğla Prefecture in southwest Turkey, a region well known as a traditional Turkish carpet production area. In large numbers of villages of this region, carpet weaving is the household based work of every woman who lives there.

In this paper, I aim to add more detailed information and discussion specifically on the colors and dyes of the carpets shown in this film. First I will introduce the varieties of the natural dye materials the villagers use one by one. …

Culture Brokers: Weavers, Photographers, Scientists, And Textile Experts, Kimberly L. Hart

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Preface

Today I will present the history of the founding of the Yuntdag cooperative in Orselli village in western Turkey. This cooperative is a member of the DOBAG Project, or the Natural Dye Research and Development Project (Dogal Boya Arastirma ve Gelistirme Projesi). DOBAG consists of two projects, one in Orselli and another in Ayvacik, both in western Turkey. By telling this story, I will show how “insiders” and “outsiders,” villagers, expatriates, textile experts, international dealers, and friends worked collaboratively to commodify a women’s heritage product and transform rural life in western Turkey.

Introduction

Harald Bohmer, who founded DOBAG in …

Embellishments Of The Alaska Native Gut Parka, Fran Reed

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Dealing with the various and extreme weather conditions in Alaska is a serious matter. Coastal Native Alaskans have been surviving in these severe environments for millennia. Without a local general store in which to buy a nice rain slicker, one must be resourceful with what is available. Between the hot summers and frigid winters are the transition seasons when it rains. Bird skins and fish skins were used extensively to make raincoats but it is the gut skin parka that proved so universal along the coast of Alaska (Fig. 1). From village to village different preparations, stitching methods and artistic …

Walking A Line: Gps And Satellite Technologies As Narratives, Ruth Scheuing

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Over the last year I have been using a GPS (Global Positioning System) device to track my trips as drawings and a personal narrative. These lines form patterns with many variations. My recent Jacquard weavings were records of satellite images of the earth, received through the process of ‘remote sensing’, performed by a machine, instructed in this task. This presentation will briefly describe GPS and satellite technologies and discuss how these different ideas link up with my earlier work as an artist.

Walking as a conceptual practice has an interesting history. It deals with a process rather than a …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 20:1 — Winter 2008, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Hawaii's Textile Resources Featured at Site Seminars, 11th TSA Biennial Symposium, Honolulu, Hawaii, September 24–27
President's Letter
TSA News
TSA Member News
Visual Language of Cloth: Commemorative Handkerchiefs
Pre-Symposium Colloquium, Post-Symposium Tour
Publications News
Featured Collection: Hidden Textile Treasures at the Armenian Museum and Library, Watertown, Massachusetts
Collections News
Exhibition Reviews
Calendar-Exhibitions
Calendar-Virtual, Lectures, Workshops, Tours
Conferences & Symposia
Employment

Flow, Sharon L. Kennedy

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

Symbolizing purity, sustenance, tranquility, power, movement, and continuity, water is a source of life as well as destruction and death. Its surface serves as a metaphor for self-reflection and contemplation. It flows over cultural and physical boundaries. Water is indispensable to human survival, yet many take it for granted. We pollute it, misuse it, and fight over it. It is easily accessible to some while nearly out of reach to others. Flow explores the theme of water as subject and symbol, natural wonder, recreational resource, and environmental concern.

Artists with an affinity toward nature, especially landscape painters, chose water as …

Review Of Animal Noroviruses, A. Scipioni, A. Mauroy, J. Vinje, E. Thiry

United States Public Health Resources

Among enteric caliciviruses, noroviruses belong to the genus Norovirus, one of the four accepted genera in the family Caliciviridae. These single-stranded, positive-sense RNA viruses are highly variable both genetically and antigenically. Several animal enteric caliciviruses that are morphologically indistinguishable and genetically closely related to human noroviruses have been identified. The first bovine enteric noroviruses were described in Great Britain and are known as Newbury Agent 2. At least three genetic clusters of porcine noroviruses join together within genogroup II noroviruses. Human noroviruses are the most important cause of acute gastroenteritis illness in people of all ages. In the …

Tick [Genome Mapping], Amy J. Ullmann, Jeffrey J. Stuart, Catherine A. Hill

United States Public Health Resources

Ticks (subphylum Chelicerata: class Arachnida: subclass Acari: superorder Parasitiformes: order Ixodidae) are obligate blood-feeding ectoparasites of global medical and veterinary importance. Ticks live on all continents of the world (Steen et al. 2006). There are approximately 899 species of ticks; the majority are ectoparasites of wildlife and approximately 10% of these are recognized as disease vectors or for their ability to cause direct damage through blood feeding (Jongejan and Uilenberg 2004). Ticks transmit a greater variety of viruses, bacteria, and protozoa than any other blood-feeding arthropod (Dennis and Piesman 2005) and are second only to mosquitoes in terms of their …

Prostaglandin F2Α Increases Endothelial Nitric Oxide Synthase In The Periphery Of The Bovine Corpus Luteum: The Possible Regulation Of Blood Flow At An Early Stage Of Luteolysis, Koumei Shirasuna, Sho Watanabe, Takayuki Asahi, Missaka P. B. Wijayagunawardane, Kiemi Sasahara, Chao Jiang, Motozumi Matsui, Motoki Sasaki, Takashi Shimizu, John S. Davis, Akio Miyamoto

United States Public Health Resources

Prostaglandin F_2α (PGF_2α) released from the uterus causes alterations in luteal blood flow, reduces progesterone secretion, and induces luteolysis in the bovine corpus luteum (CL).We have recently discovered that luteal blood flow in the periphery of the mature CL acutely increases coincidently with pulsatile increases in a metabolite of PGF_2α (PGFM). In this study, we characterized changes in regional luteal blood flow together with regional alterations in endothelial nitric oxide synthase (eNOS) expression during spontaneous luteolysis and in response to PGF_2α. Smooth muscle actin-positive blood vessels larger than 20 μm were observed mainly in …

Host And Vector Movement Affects Genetic Diversity And Spatial Structure Of Buggy Creek Virus (Togaviridae), Charles R. Brown, Mary Bomberger Brown, Abinash Padhi, Jerome E. Foster, Amy T. Moore, Martin Pfeffer, Nicholas Komar

United States Public Health Resources

Determining the degree of genetic variability and spatial structure of arthropod-borne viruses (arboviruses) may help in identifying where strains that potentially cause epidemics or epizootics occur. Genetic diversity in arboviruses is assumed to reflect relative mobility of their vertebrate hosts (and invertebrate vectors), with highly mobile hosts such as birds leading to genetic similarity of viruses over large areas. There are no empirical studies that have directly related host or vector movement to virus genetic diversity and spatial structure. Using the entire E2 glycoprotein-coding region of 377 Buggy Creek virus isolates taken from cimicid swallow bugs (Oeciacus vicarius), …

Regional Differences In Colorectal Cancer Incidence, Stage, And Subsite Among American Indians And Alaska Natives, 1999–2004, David G. Perdue, Carin Perkins, Jeannette Jackson-Thompson, Steven S. Coughlin, Faruque Ahmed, Donald S. Haverkamp, Melissa Jim

United States Public Health Resources

BACKGROUND. Colorectal cancer (CRC) is a leading cause of cancer morbidity and mortality for American Indians and Alaska Natives (AI/ANs), but misclassification of race causes underestimates of disease burden.

METHODS. The authors compared regional differences in CRC incidence, stage at diagnosis, and anatomic distribution between AI/ANs and non-Hispanic whites (NHWs). To reduce misclassification, data from the National Program of Cancer Registries; the Surveillance, Epidemiology, and End Results Program; and the Indian Health Service (IHS) were linked. The analysis was limited to the 56% of AI/ AN who live in IHS Contract Health Service Delivery Areas.

RESULTS. From …

Surveillance For Health Behaviors Of American Indians And Alaska Natives—Findings From The Behavioral Risk Factor Surveillance System, 2000–2006, C. Brooke Steele, Cheryll J. Cardinez, Lisa C. Richardson, Lillian Tom-Orme, Kate M. Shaw

United States Public Health Resources

BACKGROUND. The authors compared estimates for cancer risk factors, use of cancer screening tests, health status indicators, and access to care for American Indians and Alaska Natives (AI/ANs) and non-Hispanic whites (NHWs) in the US and for AI/ANs in 6 Indian Health Service regions.

METHODS. Behavioral Risk Factor Surveillance System data were aggregated from the years 2000 through 2006 and were used to calculate weighted prevalence estimates by gender for key variables except demographic variables.

RESULTS. Compared with NHWs, AI/ANs had lower prevalence estimates for income, educational attainment, insurance coverage, and access to personal healthcare providers. AI/ANs …

Management Of Asthma Exacerbations: School Treatment Steps To Follow For An Asthma Episode In The School Setting When A Nurse Is Not Available

United States Natonal Institutes of Health: Materials

The Steps to Follow for an Asthma Episode in the School Setting can be used by state or districts school health services directors or coordinators.

Your Choice For Change - Honoring The Gift Of Heart Health For American Indians

United States Natonal Institutes of Health: Materials

This easy-to-understand, culturally appropriate booklet for American Indians provides concise information about heart disease and its risk factors.

Claudy Jongstra: Transmitting Craft Heritage Through Contemporary Architecture, Susan Brown

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

“.. textiles, so often no more than an afterthought in planning, might take a place again as a contributing thought.”

When Anni Albers wrote “The Pliable Plane” in 1957, she expressed a vision for an integrated, rather than decorative, role for textiles in architecture. Dutch felt artist Claudy Jongstra has realized that goal. In the past five years, Jongstra has created works for some of Holland’s most important public buildings: The Hague, the Amsterdam Public Library, the Rotterdam Kunsthal, The Lloyd Hotel and Cultural Center, and the Nijverdal City Hall and Cultural Center all prominently feature her felts, not as …

The Colour Of Women’S Culture: Natural Dyeing As Self-Expression In America, Japan, Norway And Australia, Karen Diadick Casselman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Natural dyes are front and centre in academic and craft circles. The resurgence of attention is due to several factors. One is the popularity of natural dyes among European archaeologists and chemists who rely on dyes as an analytical tool for dating textiles. Scholars worldwide have developed a deeper cultural context for early textiles by studying dye origins, horticulture, early dye technology, and ancient trade in dyestuffs. Gender is now a prominent theme, as are ethical considerations, ecology, ethnicity, and aesthetics. Dyes have surmounted the art/craft debate because their postmodern applications encompass many disciplines. From agriculture to zoology, natural dyes …

Chinchorro Twined Shrouds, Vicki Cassman, Nancy Odegaard, Bernardo Arriaza

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The first inhabitants of the South Central Andes arrived to the Pacific coast of what is now Northern Chile and Southern Peru about 8000 BC. The early Chinchorro were fisher-hunter-gatherers that made use of two media for their artistic expressions, their own bodies and large canvases made from twined reeds and sedges. Mats and textiles were used for a variety of domestic and personal uses, including shelter, packaging and shrouding the dead. It is likely they were used as blankets for the living as well. The textile shrouds and stylistic mummification techniques employed by the Chinchorro culture predate pottery, agriculture …

Perfumed Textiles, Katia Johansen

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

As a museum professional, I work with memories. And nothing is more evocative than scent, which is both fragile and powerful. Perfumed textiles and costume are a standard part of every culture, yet few have been identified, and virtually none have been preserved. Perfuming was traditionally used to mask malodors from use or from production processes like tanning and dyeing, for ceremonial reasons, or simply to create a favorable impression of the wearer. Perfuming methods included using incense, laundry aids, sweet bags and fuming pans. Unintentional perfuming also occurred, of which we sometimes get a whiff in our museum collections. …

Iowa Or Dye! Natural Dyes As American Craft And Horticulture, Sara J. Kadolph

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Cultural expression reflects the multi-dimensional environment in which an individual lives and works. Art and craft function as technologies within that environment. The materials used say who we are, and how we think and feel. The use of natural dyes expresses philosophy and intent. In my case, renewable resources (natural dyes) used in my art work connect me to horticulture. I grow many of the natural dyes I use and sell both dye seeds and goods dyed with Iowa-grown and exotic natural dyes. Using natural dyes also connects a dyer to the past and future. The historical connection occurs as …

The String Or Grass Skirt; An Ancient Garment In The Southern Andes, Amy Oakland

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The string or grass skirt appears among the earliest known garments in the Southern Andes. Archaeologists discovered the skirts wrapped around Chinchorro ancestor figures in burials near the Pacific coast of North Chile dating to 8000 B.C. The Chinchorro people’s mummified ancestors included specific gender traits so it is clear that they wanted to identify the skirts as a female garment. Chinchorro men were equipped with leather loincloths and both apparently used twinned grass mantles, blankets, or mats.

Through time, these coastal Andeans developed an elaborate dress with enormous string turbans and pelican-skin capes, however the string skirt remained the …

Alcohol Research: A Lifespan Perspective, National Institute On Alcohol Abuse And Alcoholism

United States Public Health Resources

Contents:
The Embryo and Fetus: Focus on Fetal Alcohol Spectrum Disorder (FASD) and Fetal Alcohol Syndrome (FAS)
Midlife Focus on Detrimental Effects of Drinking and on Treatment Options
Senior Adults and Alcohol: A National Health Issue

Alcohol use and the risk for alcohol-related problems change over the lifespan. College students and young adults, who often drink large quantities of alcohol at one time, are more likely to experience problems such as alcohol poisoning, drunk-driving crashes, and assaults; whereas, older individuals who drink even moderately while taking certain medications run the risk of harmful drug interactions. Additionally, patterns of alcohol use …

First Administration To Humans Of A Monoclonal Antibody Cocktail Against Rabies Virus: Safety, Tolerability, And Neutralizing Activity, A.B.H. Bakker, C. Python, C.J. Kissling, P. Pandya, W.E. Marissen, M.F. Brink, F. Lagerwerf, S. Worst, E. Van Corven, S. Kostense, K. Hartmann, G.J. Weverling, F. Uytdehaag, C. Herzog, D.J. Briggs, C.E. Rupprecht, R. Grimaldi, J. Goudsmit

United States Public Health Resources

Immediate passive immune prophylaxis as part of rabies post-exposure prophylaxis (PEP) often cannot be provided due to limited availability of human or equine rabies immunoglobulin (HRIG and ERIG, respectively). We report first clinical data from two phase I studies evaluating a monoclonal antibody cocktail CL184 against rabies.
The studies included healthy adult subjects in the USA and India and involved two parts. First, subjects received a single intramuscular dose of CL184 or placebo in a double blind, randomized, dose-escalation trial. Second, open-label CL184 (20 IU/kg)was co-administered with rabies vaccine. Safety was the primary objective and rabies virus neutralizing activity (RVNA) …

An In Vitro Method Of Alcoholic Liver Injury Using Precision-Cut Liver Slices From Rats, Lynell W. Klassen, Geoffrey M. Thiele, Michael J. Duryee, Courtney S. Schaffert, Amy L. Deveney, Carlos D. Hunter, Peter Olinga, Dean J. Tuma

United States Public Health Resources

Alcohol abuse results in liver injury, but investigations into the mechanism(s) for this injury have been hampered by the lack of appropriate in vitro culture models in which to conduct in depth and specific studies. In order to overcome these shortcomings, we have developed the use of precision-cut liver slices (PCLS) as an in vitro culture model in which to investigate how ethanol causes alcohol-induced liver injury. In these studies, it was shown that the PCLS retained excellent viability as determined by lactate dehydrogenase and adenosine triphosphate (ATP) levels over a 96-h period of incubation. More importantly, the major enzymes …

A Schweitzer Approach To Higher Education: Utilizing Principles Drawn From The Life Of Albert Schweitzer To Develop A Holistic And Comprehensive Educational Model, John B. Miller

Theses and Graduate Projects

While quite young, Albert Schweitzer was already a well regarded philosopher, a gifted musician, and a groundbreaking theologian when he became a medical doctor and devoted his life to service in equatorial Africa where he received the inspiration for his central ethic of Reverence for Life. A Schweitzer-based higher educational approach draws upon Schweitzer's life example in interweaving elements of academics, arts, spirituality, service, and the direct experience of nature. The academic content is grounded in complexity theory, a post-moderm discipline which expands upon Schweitzer's recognition that, "l am life that wills to live in the midst of life that …

Washington University Magazine, Spring 2008

Washington University Magazine

No abstract provided.

Washington University Magazine, Fall 2008

Washington University Magazine

No abstract provided.