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The Hand Of The Maker: The Importance Of Understanding Textiles From The "Inside Out", Beverly Gordon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This is a position paper of sorts, arguing that the experience of making a textile is an important component of understanding it, and we should be encouraging textile researchers to include hands-on experiments as part of their investigation. Some TSA members will take this idea for granted because they have first-hand experience with textile making, and may find it overly obvious. The point is hardly new, and archeologist Elizabeth Barber made a strong case for the value of textile "reconstruction" in her 1994 book, Women's Work: The First 20,000 Years. Nevertheless, this is not a universally shared assumption, and …

Siguas 1: A Newly Identified Early Horizon Culture, Department Of Arequipa, Peru, Joerg Haeberli

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

My interest in the valleys of Arequipa began in 1994. A curious set of textiles labeled Nasca was attributed to the "Sihuas" Valley, Nazca region, Peru, south coast." The iconography of these textiles was not Nasca but belonged to unidentified traditions. They most likely came from the Sihuas Valley in the department of Arequipa. In 1997 and 2000 I went to Arequipa to establish if their provenance indeed was the Sihuas Valley and other valleys in the department of Arequipa. This was confirmed in the field for the valleys of Sihuas and Vitor at four heavily looted cemeteries. In addition, …

Appropriated Threads: The Unpicking And Reweaving Imported Textiles, Jessica Hemmings

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Silk Route has become synonymous with the movement of knowledge that accompanies the trade of objects. Many of the textiles discussed here were not traded along the Silk Route, but all are representative of the associations that are made with this artery of cultural exchange. The examples cited arrive from a range of cultures and geographies: Indonesia and Nigeria, the Southwest United States and New Zealand. From these vastly different regions, using a variety of materials, weavers painstakingly unpicked yams from woven fabrics for use in other weavings.

The term 'raveled yam' refers to threads that have been unpicked …

Clothing Styles From A Provincial Inca Outpost, Grace Katterman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

My recent study of Inca Period clothing has involved textile collections from three south coastal areas of Peru (Figure 1): Pachacamac, a large Inca center and temple complex just south of Lima (Uhle 1903/1991: Ch XXI: 89-96); Rodadero, a storage facility overlooking the Inca center of Tambo Viejo in the Acari Valley (Katterman and Riddell (1992:141-167); and Burial House #2, the western hillside cemetery affiliated with the Inca outpost of Quebrada de La Vaca in the Chala Drainage (Katterman 2003b). From the burial house (Figure 6), Dorothy Menzel and Francis Riddell collected and documented 120 burials plus an additional 140 …

Why Embroidery? An Answer From The Ancient Andes, Anne Paul

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In her meticulous classification of fabric structures, Irene Emery wrote that needlework "is basically one of the simplest crafts, a homely activity that can be practiced by almost anyone on almost any material. But, with fine and carefully chosen materials plus a high degree of skill and imagination in handling them, needlework can be raised almost to the rank of a fine art" (1966:246). I suspect that Emery would not object to my deletion of the word "almost" when discussing the examples of fine art embroidered by certain pre-Conquest Andeans.

Within the ancient Andean world, needlework is not exclusively identified …

Contributors

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Contributing Authors

A-W

Nettie Adams

Monisha Ahmed

Gloria Seaman Allen

Jeni Allenby

Elizabeth Wayland Barber

...

Bobbie Sumberg

Rebecca Trussell

Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Stephen Wagner

Marketplace Handwork Of India: Impacts On Artisan Capabilities, Mary A. Littrell, Marsha A. Dickson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

At the 1998 TSA Symposium in New York City, we presented a paper that documented the work of three textile artisan enterprises. All embraced a fair trade approach to their work. Known as Alternative Trade Organizations (ATOs), these enterprises are deeply committed to a mission of sustainable, people-centered development (Littrell and Dickson 1997). More specifically, this fair trade partnership between textile artisans and retailers involves joint commitment to:

• paying fair wages within a local context,

• providing healthy and safe working conditions,

• sustaining the environment,

• promoting capacity building through business and technical training, and

• honoring cultural …

Threads Of Resistance: Unraveling The Meanings Of!9ih Century Tlingit Beaded Regalia, Megan A. Smetzer

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although not the first to make the connection, Ensign Albert Niblack of the U.S. Navy wrote most succinctly in 1888: "There seems nothing unreasonable in tracing the origin of much of the dance and ceremonial paraphernalia to customs originating in war." Since that time, numerous scholars have suggested and disputed links between Tlingit carved and painted armor and ceremonial regalia. Beaded regalia, on the other hand has been almost entirely neglected in Northwest Coast ethnographic literature due to notions of authenticity and cultural degeneration. In 1945, anthropologist Erna Gunther for example, explained beaded dance collars as a mere disguise for …

Re-Inventing Cultural Heritage: Palestinian Traditional Costume And Embroidery Since 1948, Jeni Allenby

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Prior to 1948, when the State of Israel was declared, Arab society in Palestine consisted of three main groups - the townspeople, a small percentage of nomadic or semi-nomadic bedouin tribes, and the villagers or "people of the land" who made up three quarters of the population. Over eight hundred villages were scattered from the coastal plains to the Jordan River. While costume in the urban regions historically reflected the current occupiers of the country (for example, Turkish styles during the Ottoman period, and European fashions under the British Mandate) Palestine's many villages were economically and socially independent, and difficulties …

Marketplace Handwork Of India: Impacts On Artisan Capabilities, Mary A. Littrell, Marsha A. Dickson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

At the 1998 TSA Symposium in New York City, we presented a paper that documented the work of three textile artisan enterprises. All embraced a fair trade approach to their work. Known as Alternative Trade Organizations (ATOs), these enterprises are deeply committed to a mission of sustainable, people-centered development (Littrell and Dickson 1997). More specifically, this fair trade partnership between textile artisans and retailers involves joint commitment to:

• paying fair wages within a local context,

• providing healthy and safe working conditions,

• sustaining the environment,

• promoting capacity building through business and technical training, and

• honoring cultural …

Contemporary Embroideries Of Rabaris Of Kutch: Economic And Cultural Viability, Judy Frater

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Monghiben Rabari is attending an exhibition and sale in Mumbai. Her traditional embroidery has taken her from Vandh, her village of mud huts and camels on the seacoast of Kutch to India’s most cosmopolitan urban metropolis. She is thrilled by the glittering bustle, and by the customers’ enthusiastic response. She deals directly with them, as a professional artisan. And not only do the customers buy; one woman is so impressed that she wants to learn embroidery. She engages Monghi as a teacher during the afternoon lulls of the exhibition.

Surely, we have succeeded in the transition from tradition to profession. …

The Hand Of The Maker: The Importance Of Understanding Textiles From The “Inside Out”, Beverly Gordon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This is a position paper of sorts, arguing that the experience of making a textile is an important component of understanding it, and we should be encouraging textile researchers to include hands-on experiments as part of their investigation. Some TSA members will take this idea for granted because they have first-hand experience with textile making, and may find it overly obvious. The point is hardly new, and archeologist Elizabeth Barber made a strong case for the value of textile “reconstruction” in her 1994 book, Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years. Nevertheless, this is not a universally shared assumption, and …

Why Embroidery? An Answer From The Ancient Andes, Anne Paul

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In her meticulous classification of fabric structures, Irene Emery wrote that needlework "is basically one of the simplest crafts, a homely activity that can be practiced by almost anyone on almost any material. But, with fine and carefully chosen materials plus a high degree of skill and imagination in handling them, needlework can be raised almost to the rank of a fine art" (1966:246). I suspect that Emery would not object to my deletion of the word "almost" when discussing the examples of fine art embroidered by certain pre-Conquest Andeans.

Within the ancient Andean world, needlework is not exclusively identified …

The Evolution And Changes Of Moche Textile Style: What Does Style Tell Us About Northern Textile Production?, Maria Jesus Jimenez Diaz

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although Moche textiles form part of the legacy of one of the best known cultures of pre-Hispanic Peru, today they remain relatively unknown. Moche culture evolved in the northern valleys of the Peruvian coast (Fig. 1) during the first 800 years after Christ (Fig. 2). They were contemporary with other cultures such us Nazca or Lima and their textiles exhibited special features that are reflected in their textile production. Previous studies of Moche textiles have been carried out by authors such as Lila O'Neale (1946, 1947), O'Neale y Kroeber (1930), William Conklin (1978) or Heiko Pruemers (1995). However, in spite …

Measured Interpretation: Introducing The Method Of Correspondence Analysis To Legal Studies, Bernard E. Harcourt

Articles

Professor Harcourt develops and advocates a method to more rigorously measure and evaluate how qualitative "social meaning" variables relate to legal practices and public policies. The method integrates in-depth qualitative interviews with an experimental free associational component, map analysis of the interviews, and a methodology, correspondence analysis, that remains little known in the United States despite its acceptance in other parts of the world. Correspondence analysis, according to Professor Harcourt, is a tool that allows researchers to visually represent the relationship between structures of social meaning and the contexts and practices within which they are embedded. This method opens up …

2002-2003 Bulletin

Graduate Bulletins

Volume 112, Number 1

Scanned from the copy held in the Registrar's Office.

Complejidad Como Un Amortiguador: El Cubo Social Belga, Neal Alan Carter

ILSA Journal of International & Comparative Law

En toda su historia, B61gica ha sido una entidad compleja politicamente y socialmente.

Invitation For Proposals For 2002 Annual Meeting, Mary K. Bendixen-Noe, Kim Metcalf

Mid-Western Educational Researcher

Invitation for Proposals

Seeing Standards: Schools’ Built Environments And The Standards Movement, Kristien Marquez-Zenkov

Mid-Western Educational Researcher

This article describes the broad consideration of educational standards that occurred in a pre-service language arts methods course in a public, urban university context. This deliberation over standards was rooted in an urgent community concern about the school facilities in the university’s home city. It utilized photography and a focus on standards evidenced in the “built environment” of city schools to allow a cohort of teacher candidates to consider the nature and specifics of the current emphasis on standards that is increasingly a part of every educational context. These methods allowed these teacher candidates to “see” the ways that a …

Integrating Environmental Education With Family And Consumer Science Education, Trina Lin Stangland

All Graduate Projects

This project provides lessons and activities for the integration of environmental education throughout the family and consumer science curriculum. The project reflects the most current standards including the Washington State Environmental Education Guidelines and Essential Academic Learning Requirements, as well as the Family and Consumer Science National Standards. Many appropriate areas of implementation were discovered in the review of literature. The lessons and activities presented in this project are informed by the literature and are, subsequently, diverse and desirable for family and consumer science education. Each lesson or activity includes detailed information on which standards they reflect as well as …

Writing An Important Body Of Scholarship: A Proposal For An Embodied Rhetoric Of Professional Practice, Jane Hindman

Publications and Research

Identifies a set of professional discursive practices of rhetoric teachers that reveal gendered power relations. Proposes an "embodied rhetoric" characterized and authorized in part by specific sorts of personal author- and context-saturated gestures. Concludes that an embodied rhetoric regenders academic discourse, assures agency and power to feminist theory and praxis, and facilitates efforts to effect change in teachers and students' lives.

University Of New Hampshire 2001 Fact Book, University Of New Hampshire. Institutional Research And Assessment

UNH Factbooks

University of New Hampshire factbook data from the 2001-2002 academic year

Faculty Excellence, University Of New Hampshire

Faculty Excellence Awards

Each year, the University of New Hampshire selects a small number of its outstanding faculty for special recognition of their achievements in teaching, scholarship and service. Awards for Excellence in Teaching are given in each college and school, and university-wide awards recognize public service, research, teaching and engagement. This booklet details the year's award winners' accomplishments in short profiles with photographs and text.

Building The World Community: Challenges To Legal Education And The Wcl Experience, Claudio Grossman

American University International Law Review

No abstract provided.

Preliminary Data On The Mineralogy Of Limestone And Skarn-Hosted Caves From Băita (Bihor County, Romania), Bogdan P. Onac, Paul Damm

KIP Articles

No abstract provided.

Report, 2001-2002: New England Region, Matthew F. Morry

Marian Studies

No abstract provided.

Edra 33: Bibliography Of Books On Display, Kathleen Demsky

Bibliographies

EDRA 33 | Community: Revolution or Evolution | Philadelphia, PA

Meeting The Sexual Health Needs Of Men Who Have Sex With Men In Senegal, Cheikh Ibrahima Niang, Moustapha Diagne, Youssoupha Niang, Amadou Moreau, Dominique Gomis, Maye Diouf, Karim Seck, Abdoulaye Sidibe Wade, Placide Tapsoba, Christopher Castle

HIV and AIDS

A study conducted in Dakar, Senegal by researchers from the National AIDS Council, Cheikh Anta Diop University, and the Horizons program obtained information on the needs, behaviors, knowledge, and attitudes of men who have sex with men (MSM). This study offers important insights into the sexuality of MSM, their vulnerability to STI/HIV, and the role of violence and stigma in their lives. The results also highlight the lack of sexual health services and information available to cover the specific needs of MSM. The results of this study were summarized during a meeting held in April 2001 in Dakar and raised …

The Logician Versus The Linguist- An Empirical Tale Of Functional Discrimination In The Legal Academy, Andrea Kayne Kaufman

Michigan Journal of Gender & Law

This paper, focusing exclusively on gender, asks whether male and female law students express different preferences for logic-based learning models. A wide variety of educational theories and other theories have been used to conceptualize different learning preferences among law students but until now, none has focused on logical intelligence compared with the other intelligences. Using Harvard educational psychologist Howard Gardner's theory of Multiple Intelligences, this paper describes an empirical study establishing that male and female law students express differences in preferring logical intelligence over the other intelligences. This paper introduces the concept of "functional discrimination," addressing the ways in which …

Mb 750 Values And Ethics In Cross-Cultural Perspective, Michael A. Rynkiewich

Syllabi

Texts: 1. Strange Virtues by Bernard Adeney (1995) 2. Patterns of Culture by Ruth Benedict (1934) 3. Freedom and Culture by Dorothy Lee (1959) 4. Sick Societies by Robert Edgerton (1992) 5. Things Fall Apart by Chinua Achebe (1959) 6. Case Studies in Missions by Paul & Frances Hiebert (1987)