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Textile Society Of America Newsletter 20:1 — Winter 2008, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Hawaii's Textile Resources Featured at Site Seminars, 11th TSA Biennial Symposium, Honolulu, Hawaii, September 24–27
President's Letter
TSA News
TSA Member News
Visual Language of Cloth: Commemorative Handkerchiefs
Pre-Symposium Colloquium, Post-Symposium Tour
Publications News
Featured Collection: Hidden Textile Treasures at the Armenian Museum and Library, Watertown, Massachusetts
Collections News
Exhibition Reviews
Calendar-Exhibitions
Calendar-Virtual, Lectures, Workshops, Tours
Conferences & Symposia
Employment

Chinchorro Twined Shrouds, Vicki Cassman, Nancy Odegaard, Bernardo Arriaza

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The first inhabitants of the South Central Andes arrived to the Pacific coast of what is now Northern Chile and Southern Peru about 8000 BC. The early Chinchorro were fisher-hunter-gatherers that made use of two media for their artistic expressions, their own bodies and large canvases made from twined reeds and sedges. Mats and textiles were used for a variety of domestic and personal uses, including shelter, packaging and shrouding the dead. It is likely they were used as blankets for the living as well. The textile shrouds and stylistic mummification techniques employed by the Chinchorro culture predate pottery, agriculture …

Meanings And Messages: Quilts To Comfort The Families Of America’S Fallen In The Afghanistan And Iraq Wars, Jonathan Gregory

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Beginning in 2003, grassroots quiltmaking projects were founded in the United States in response to the deaths of American soldiers in the Afghanistan and Iraq Wars. The author conducted an oral history project involving the founders of three of these quiltmaking projects and other quiltmakers who were active within them in order to understand the meanings of making and giving quilts and the meanings of the quilts themselves.

Two primary sites of meaning were identified in the study: 1) the internal motivations that inspired quiltmakers to begin and continue participation in a project; and 2) the textual, symbolic, and personal …

Dress Of The Lolo, Pathen, Hmong And Yao Of Northern Vietnam In 2005-2006: Reflections Of Cultural Continuity And Change, Serena Lee Harrigan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Many of the approximately 30 ethnic minority groups living in northern Vietnam continue to wear daily a traditional dress that communicates their cultural identity and links them to generations of history. Based on field studies conducted in villages in 1999, 2005, and 2006, this paper discusses the dress of the Lolo, Pathen, Hmong, and Yao who live in the northernmost areas of Vietnam where travel remains restricted. Connecting textiles with ancient beliefs and practices, these studies document the continued use of: a memorial display of clothing along with ancestral drums during Black Lolo funeral rites; the celestial crown of the …

Crochet Lace As Expression Of Digital Culture, Gail Kenning

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Human designed, physical textile patterns such as lace are familiar in our everyday lives and the historical, geographic and cultural significance of these patterns, and their aesthetic and/or mathematical characteristics, have been extensively investigated and documented. However, their evolutionary potential remains under-theorized. While the digital environment is increasingly used as a design aid in the production of textiles, its potential for exploring the evolutionary possibilities for lace has not been fully investigated. This paper discusses an experimental research art project that explored the evolutionary potential for lace patterns within the digital environment.

Human designed, hand-made domestically produced physical textile patterns …

The Centre For Advanced Textiles: A Case Study In Uk Digital Textile Culture, Eulanda A. Sanders

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

If textiles serve as records of a culture’s history and values, how should we approach and evaluate the integration of digitally-created and digitally-produced textiles? How do the application of digital technologies encourage or inhibit cultural expressions?

Government and academic institutions in the United Kingdom (UK) are actively trying to support and invigorate what is being called the ‘research culture’ in the UK, yet the ability to create and maintain sustainable research centres in the creative textile fields have proven to be difficult. Through reflectively analysing the creation, re-evaluation and re-focusing of the Centre for Advanced Textiles (CAT) at Glasgow School …

Meanings And Messages: Quilts To Comfort The Families, Jonathan Gregory

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction During the American Civil War, 1861-1865, women from the northern states made at least 250,000 quilts to supply bedding to the Union Army in the field and in military hospitals through the aegis of the U. S. Sanitary Commission. Southern women carried on similar types of relief work for the Confederate Army, though with far fewer resources to draw upon. Hundreds of red and white quilts were made as fundraisers for the American Red Cross during the First World War. And Mennonite and Mormon women from Canada and the U.S. made and shipped thousands of quilts in a massive …

Crochet Lace As Expression Of Digital Culture, Gail Kenning

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Human designed physical patterns, while having been investigated extensively in terms of their historical, geographic and cultural significance and their aesthetic and/or mathematical characteristics, have not been fully investigated in terms of their evolutionary potential. This paper discusses an experimental art research project which focuses on human designed, physical textile patterns to explore pattern as process and investigate the potential for these patterns to evolve and become emergent.

The experimental art projects focused on lace and in particular, crochet lace pattern forms commonly referred to as doilies.1 Crochet lace patterns are widely recognized, domestically produced hand-made physical patterns …

The Centre For Advanced Textiles: A Case Study In Uk Digital Textile Culture, Eulanda A. Sanders

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

The faculty and graduate students at the Centre for Advanced Textiles (CAT), located in the Glasgow School of Arts in Scotland, have created a unique academic environment that not only employs culture in design inspiration, but also creates a dynamic academic culture. The team consists of the following five, individuals who are all practicing designers and researchers: Alan Shaw, Industry Coordinator; Vicky Begg, Bureau Coordinator; Helena Britt, a Practitioner/Educator/Graduate Student; and Andrew McDonald, a Research Assistant/Graduate Student and J.R. Campbell, the Research Fellow/Coordinator. Each faculty member and graduate student on this team interacts with each other on various activities …

Translation Of Medium: Kesi Meets Painting, Jean Kares

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

My current project places kesi, or pictorial silk tapestry, in closer proximity to the discourse of Chinese art history, and raises questions about the hierarchical categorization of creative production. Kesi was produced in China beginning in the Northern Song dynasty (960-1127 CE) as a method of weaving that allowed for designs that were independent of loom controlled patterning. When the weavers employed in imperial workshops adopted the medium, they expanded its design repertoire from overall patterning to a means of creating pictures. Indeed, a kesi artwork functioned as a painting, both visually and in its role as an art …

Abstracts

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Abstracts A-Z

Still Life With Chair, Shirt, Jacket, Shoes And Umbrella, Anukul Gurung

The Mercury

No abstract provided.

Discreetly Depicting "An Outrage": Graphic Illustration And "Daisy Miller"'S Reputation, Adam Sonstegard

English Faculty Publications

Rendering the first illustrated edition of "Daisy Miller" in 1892, Harry Whitney McVickar had to reconcile the novella's scandalous reputation with the polite medium of graphic illustration. McVickar highlights insignificant scenery, shows solitary figures instead of social interaction or playful flirtation, and nearly omits the heroine. His depictions and omissions contain the characters' indiscretions, and ensure that aspiring flirts and would-be Winterbournes who view his images do not "get the wrong idea." Cinematic adaptations amplify Daisy's public displays and encourage Winterbourne's voyeurism, but "Daisy Miller"'s first graphic illustrations strove instead to redeem the reputation of James's "outrage on American girlhood."

Sae Magazin : Das Magazin Von Sae Institute Und Sae Alumni Association 2008|1, Sae Institute

SAE Magazine (2007-2011)

No abstract provided.

Sae Magazin : Das Magazin Von Sae Institute Und Sae Alumni Association 2008|2, Sae Institute

SAE Magazine (2007-2011)

No abstract provided.

Design Concept: My Amalgamation Of Eastern And Western Cultures, Yuting Dong

Electronic Theses and Dissertations

While exploring various subjects in multiple techniques in multiple mediums, I create abstract images that illustrate high technology, urban life, and personal feelings. My work is influenced by Eastern and Western culture. Media, publication, and fashion are derived from Western culture, and design elements are derived from Eastern culture. In doing this, my goal is to achieve more opportunities, greater depth, and a wider audience for my work by cross-utilizing these diverse culture aspects.

2008-2009 Risd Course Announcement, Risd Registrar's Office, Risd Archives

RISD Course Catalogs / Announcements

No abstract provided.

Documented Struggles And Triumph: African American Art, Holbrook Lauren

The Journal of Undergraduate Research

The emergence of African Americans as artists began in the Colonial Era with simple portraits. The first African American artist to gain recognition as a portraitist was Joshua Johnston who worked in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century. The majority of his portraits were of wealthy European American families, who were slave owners (Fig. 1). Johnston was formerly a slave, and as rumors suggests, his former owner was also a portraitist from which Johnston acquired his skills. Interestingly, Johnston did not sign or date any of his works (Lewis 15). It seems as though a suggestion to his name …

George D. Green: Influences Behind His Work, Dustin Klein

The Journal of Undergraduate Research

NOTE: This paper is part of a collective project that is published online in the Michigan based Undergraduate Research Journal for the Human Sciences, 2008 Special Edition: “Eye Deceptions: The Evolution of George Green’s Painting from the Late 1970’s to the Present” (http://www.kon.org/urc/v7/v7a/george-d-green-painting-evolution.html). Our sincere gratitude to Dr. Dorothy I. Mitstifer, Executive Director of the Undergraduate Research Journal for the Human Sciences, the Honors Society Kappa Omicron Nu and the Association of College Honor Societies, for authorizing the separate publication of this paper, as individual contribution, in the 2008 SDSU Journal of Undergraduate Research. All the reproduced images of paintings …

Floating World Projects : Two Views, Delicacies, Inside Out = 浮世, Klaus Peter Knoll, Cella

Artists-in-Residence Programme : Exhibition Catalogues

Floating World Projects photographs and exhibition were realized through the Visual Studies Artist-in-Residence Programm and the generous support of the Department of Philosophy.

Ua1c1 Views - Wku Archives Photograph Collection, Wku Archives, James Galore

WKU Archives Collection Inventories

Views of Western Kentucky University and its founding institutions showing multiple buildings. Includes aerial photographs and maps.

Review: Georgia Quilts: Piecing Together A History, Tamika Maddox Strong

Georgia Library Quarterly

Review of the non-fiction book "Georgia Quilts: Piecing Together a History," edited by Anita Zaleski Weinraub.

Visual Identity, Ariston Sedrak Jacks

Theses and Dissertations

My artwork addresses issues of identity. As an artist, I feel it is my responsibility to delineate the human condition while encouraging the viewers to recall their own experiences. My paintings attempt to serve as a catalyst to evoke emotional, social, and cultural responses by documenting my idea of significant people or events. To accomplish this visually, I explore the human figure through a formal approach addressing the elements of art. I am influenced by various philosophies that impact my artwork. I experiment with a variety of media adding unique details not defined by skilled rendering or complex abstraction, but …

Fuse News, Kuniko Vroman

SWITCH

This article describes the FUSE initiative, a collaborative residency program bringing together artists, students, academic institutions, and Silicon Valley industries. Housed at San José State University and partnered with Montalvo Arts Center, ZERO1, and the city of San José, FUSE explores how interdisciplinary partnerships can shape new forms of media art and public engagement.

Intellectual Property In The Age Of Digital Reproduction, David Sandoval

SWITCH

This article explores the challenges of intellectual property in a digital world. Focusing on the work of Graffiti Research Lab (GRL), the article discusses how artists use open-source tools to resist corporate control of public space, but also how these same tools are often co-opted by the very systems they oppose. Through examples like LED throwies, Laser Tag, and Creative Commons licenses, the article examines the limits of current copyright models and the blurred lines between commercial and non-commercial use.

Zero1sj/Fuse, Kuniko Vroman

SWITCH

This article introduces the FUSE research residency program, a collaboration between San Jose State University's CADRE Lab and the Montalvo Arts Center. It describes how FUSE supports partnerships between artists and students to explore new media and social issues through creative projects.

The Bridge, Volume 5, 2008, Bridgewater State College

the bridge

Volume 5 Staff

Maria Alonso, Editor-in-Chief
Whitney White, Editor-in-Chief
Theressa Barnes
David Bevans, Jr.
Laura Bowen
Jason R. Gregory
Victoria Large
Mandy Lyons
Kurt M. Schleehauf
Tara M. Sullivan
Cheryl Tullis
Shaylin Walsh

Mary Dondero, Faculty Advisor
Jerald Walker, Faculty Advisor
Linda Hall, Alumni Consultant
Rosann Kozlowski, Alumni Consultant

A Poem Is A Robe And A Castle: Inscribing Verses On Textiles And Architecture In The Alhambra, Olga Bush

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper studies the interrelationship between textiles, architecture and poetry in the Alhambra, the palatial complex of the Nasrids, the last Muslim dynasty in the Iberian Peninsula.  Poetic figures likening architecture to textiles in parietal inscriptions, which I will call “textile metaphors,” are the crux of this interrelationship.  I limit discussion to a single example from the epigraphy of the Alhambra: a poem inscribed in the interior of the Qalahurra al-jadıda, a tower-palace in the palatial complex.  The focal point is the term muwashsha, common to the vocabulary of textile design and literary form, which is further employed here to …

“Revisiting The Ocucaje Opened Tunic From The Textile Museum; Washington, D.C.: Textile Models And The Process Of Imitation”, Sophie Desrosiers

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Features of the Ocucaje textile (accession number 1959.11.1) belonging to the Textile Museum Washington, D.C. have previously been analyzed by Mary Frame as representing designs derived from thread and sprang imagery.  A new look at the textile reveals a textile model. The origin of this model will be traced as well as the innovation of new procedures used in the process of imitation.

Textiles, Masculinities And Spontaneous Communities In The Burning Man Project, Susan Kaiser, Denise Nicole Green

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

For one week of the year nearly 50,000 individuals make the pilgrimage to the desolate Black Rock Desert in Northwestern Nevada to participate in the creation of culture. As an experiment in ephemeral Bohemia, the Burning Man Project (BMP) provides a space for unbridled creative expression. This festal gathering seeks to replace commodified with communified material culture. The latter works to move beyond the capitalist “disconnect” between production and consumption, toward a model that bridges the two.

The BMP is a work in progress, with a reflexive awareness of the challenges involved in integrating collective participation and a gift economy …