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Nearshore And Surf-Zone Morphodynamics: A Global Environmental Model For Predicting Hazards And Changes. Appendix 6. Standing Waves On A Pronounced Bar Trough Beach, Nungjane C. Shi, L. D. Wright

Reports

The hypothesis that a pronounced bar-trough surf zone topography favors resonance of standing waves with antinodes located over the bar is examined. Numerical and field investigations of standing waves in a bar-trough surf zone suggest a selective trapping of wave energy at specific resonant frequencies in the subharmonic and the high frequency infragravity bands and a possible suppression of lower frequencies. The resonant frequencies predicted by the numerical model remain fairly constant throughtout the tidal cycle due to the small tidal range typically associated with a bar-trough beach. Cross-shore bar migration changes the resonant frequencies. Numerical simulations show that an …