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Full-Text Articles in Art Practice
The Transformation Of Men Into Masquerades And Indian Madras Into Masquerade Cloth In Buguma, Nigeria, Elisha P. Renne, Joanne B. Eicher
The Transformation Of Men Into Masquerades And Indian Madras Into Masquerade Cloth In Buguma, Nigeria, Elisha P. Renne, Joanne B. Eicher
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The Kalahari Ijo people of the Niger Delta area of southeastern Nigeria use a group of dark indigo-blue cloths with white patterning to cover the faces of masquerade performers. Subsumed under the name of alubite (masquerade cloth) are at least three distinct types: (1) ukara cloth, an indigo-resist of imported muslin, stitched and dyed by Igbo craftsmen, (2) alubite cloth, a gauze-weave, also an indigo-resist, but of unknown provenance, and (3) pelete bite, an Indian madras from which threads are cut and pulled by Kalahari women to form a new pattern.
The first two types of cloth apparently come …
Continuity Of Culture: A Reenactor’S Goal, Elizabeth Mcclure
Continuity Of Culture: A Reenactor’S Goal, Elizabeth Mcclure
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
This paper examines the maintenance of cultural continuity through historical reenactment. It is the reenactor's goal, in this case, to portray and maintain the culture of Ireland and Scotland. They are holding on to this culture and presenting it to others by maintaining the dress, crafts, and lifestyles of sixteenth-century Scotland and Ireland.
The methods of data collection for this study were ethnographic in nature. Interviews with key informants were conducted. In addition, there was a questionnaire distributed to members of the group This method of data collection provided the insight to see how a member of this group achieved …
The Pomegranate Pattern In Italian Renaissance Textiles: Origins And Influence, Rosalia Bonito Fanelli
The Pomegranate Pattern In Italian Renaissance Textiles: Origins And Influence, Rosalia Bonito Fanelli
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The term "pomegranate motif" includes a series of vegetal patterns—the pine cone, the artichoke, the thistle, variants of the tree-of-life motif, and, in particular, the lotus and the palmette. These last two patterns were closely studied by Alois Riegl in his 1893 work Stilfragen (Problems of Style). The term itself came into use during the period of historic revivalism in the latter half of the nineteenth century. At that time important design theorists and practitioners such as Owen Jones, William Morris, and Walter Crane dedicated space in their writings with accompanying plates to the reconstruction of Renaissance pomegranate patterns. The …
Cloth As Marriage Gifts: Change In Exchange Among The Lio Of Flores, Willemijn De Jong
Cloth As Marriage Gifts: Change In Exchange Among The Lio Of Flores, Willemijn De Jong
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The exchange of gifts at life cycle ceremonies is one of the most important institutions in Lio society, as in many other societies in Oceania. The life cycle event of marriage and its exchange of gifts is often significant, because important sociopolitical alliances between kin groups are initiated or renewed. In these exchanges, cloth wealth may play a crucial role, especially in ranked societies. Weiner contends that in Samoa "each distribution [of fine mats] is an example of the negotiation and validation of rank and power." Gittinger has pointed out the economic and symbolic value of cloth gifts at marriage …
Ottoman Silks And Their Legacy, Diane Mott
Ottoman Silks And Their Legacy, Diane Mott
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
During the late Middle Ages and the early Renaissance, luxury silks of Asia that had for centuries trickled into Europe began to enter in large numbers, fueling an appetite for the rich and exotic that was to have a lasting effect on Western textile design. In turn, expanded trade with the Levant carried Western designs and advances in weaving eastward. The Ottoman Empire, standing at the thresholds of Europe and Asia, was perfectly poised to transmit these East-West currents. Weavers in manufactories in the successive Ottoman capitals of Bursa and Istanbul, the western outposts of the Asiatic silk routes, absorbed …
Paj Ntaub: Textile Techniques Of The Hmong, Joyce Smith
Paj Ntaub: Textile Techniques Of The Hmong, Joyce Smith
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Narration of the video:
Who Are the Hmong?
What Is Paj Ntaub?
Why Providence?
Zoua V. Lor
Seng Yang Vang
Lee Khang
Chia Vue Moua
What Next?
Ancient Andean Headgear: Medium And Measure Of Cultural Identity, Niki R. Clark, Amy Oakland Rodman
Ancient Andean Headgear: Medium And Measure Of Cultural Identity, Niki R. Clark, Amy Oakland Rodman
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
From the earliest recorded periods of southern Andean history, distinctive clothing styles have served to identity specific socio-cultural groups and provide clues about cultural origins. Unique environmental conditions, especially present along the arid Pacific coast of South America, have allowed the preservation of a vast archive of usually perishable material. From the far south coast of Peru to the northern desert regions of Chile, textiles, and especially headgear forms were worn to distinguish between the diverse populations who established permanent settlements along the narrow river valleys linking highland regions and the coast.
The south central Andes region has always known …
Ethnic Artists And The Appropriation Of Fashion: Embroidery And Identity In The Colca Valley, Peru, Blenda Femenías
Ethnic Artists And The Appropriation Of Fashion: Embroidery And Identity In The Colca Valley, Peru, Blenda Femenías
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
"When I'm in Arequipa and I see a lady in embroidered clothes, I always greet her; she's from my land, she's my compatriot. . . . [When I teach embroidery] no matter how much one teaches, the motifs don't come out the same. If there are twenty embroiderers, twenty different motifs come out although they have the same name. It's like, even if you're my brother, we're not the same."
These comments by embroidery artist Leonardo Mejfa neatly express the character of Colca Valley ethnic clothes: simultaneously shared and individual. Similar appearance is important in recognizing a compatriot, but an …
Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings Of The Fourth Biennial Symposium Of The Textile Society Of America (1994) [Entire]
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Preface 7
Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Fiber and Garment
Featured Paper: Ancient Near Eastern Fibers and the Reshaping of European Clothing Elizabeth J. W. Barber 9
Wreath and Cap to Veil and Apron: American Modification of a Slavic Ritual Patricia Williams 19
Panel: Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa
Akwete-Igbo Weavers as Entrepreneurs and Innovators at the Turn of the Century Lisa Aronson 31
What’s in a Name: The Domestication of Factory Produced Wax Textiles in Cote d’Ivoire Kathleen E. Bickford 39
Technology and Change: The Incorporation of Synthetic Dye Techniques in Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria Judith Byfield 45
The …
Rugs And Textiles Of Late Imperial China, Carol Bier
Rugs And Textiles Of Late Imperial China, Carol Bier
Textile Research Works
With successive conquests of the highlands beyond the Great Wall, the Manchu rulers of the Qing dynasty (1644 - 1911) formed what was to become China's last empire. Their political expansion encompassed Han Chinese, Mongolians, Turks, Tibetans, and other peoples with diverse ethnic origins, languages and religious beliefs, whose regional economies often relied upon physical features of the land.
Within the Great Wall, to the east and south, silk and sericulture had a long history. Silkworms and mulberry trees thrived in the low-lying agricultural regions populated by Han Chinese. From inland regions rivers flowed to the sea, where coastal cities …
Ornament And Islamic Art, Carol Bier
Ornament And Islamic Art, Carol Bier
Textile Research Works
Review of: The Mediation of Ornament, by OLEG GRABAR & Problems of Style: Foundations for a History of Ornament, by ALOIS RIEGL.
TWO MAJOR WORKS addressing the nature of art, published in the same year but written a century apart, are each based, in part, upon analyses of Islamic monuments. Both derive from series of lectures on the history of ornament, and each offers a perspective explicitly countering the author's own intellectual milieu in the study of art focused on Western tradition.
Problems of Style is an impressive translation of Stilfragen, a broadly-based and wide-ranging inquiry by Alois …
Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 15 (1994), Virginia Gunn, Fawn Valentine, Merikay Waldvogel, Jennifer F. Goldsborough, Sunny Falling-Rain, American Quilt Society, Beverly Dunivent, Kathleen Curtis Wilson
Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 15 (1994), Virginia Gunn, Fawn Valentine, Merikay Waldvogel, Jennifer F. Goldsborough, Sunny Falling-Rain, American Quilt Society, Beverly Dunivent, Kathleen Curtis Wilson
Uncoverings Journal
Preface by Virginia Gunn
Research Papers
Aesthetics. and Ethnicity: Scotch-Irish Quilts in West Virginia by Fawn Valentine
Mildred Dickerson: A Quilt Pattern Collector of the 1960s and 1970s by Merikay Waldvogel
An Album of Baltimore Album Quilt Studies by Jennifer F. Goldsborough
A Literary Patchwork Crazy Quilt: Toni Morrison's Beloved by Sunny Falling-rain
Kit Quilts .in Perspective by Anne Copeland and Beverly Dunivent
Weaving Cloth and Marketing Nostalgia: Clinch Valley Blanket Mills, 1890-1950, Cedar Bluff, Virginia by Kathleen Curtis Wilson
Authors and Editor
Index