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A Textile Narrative Through The Eye Of A Camera/Through The Eye Of A Needle, Jennifer E. Salahub

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

When I began to research needlework in the early 1980s the Library of Congress Catalogue directed me not to needlework, or even embroidery, but to the letter “W” – Women’s Work – the first step in a long and tangled journey. When I recently came across an 1890s photograph of a Canadian woman and her embroidery by Hannah Maynard all I had to do was turn to Google to be directed to the BC Archives. My first reaction was glee – my second dismay – with 300+ hits how could I not know Mrs. Maynard?

To date, Hannah Maynard (1834-1918), …

Nationalism: Pubic Voices, Private Lives, Jerry Bleem

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

For millennia fabric banners have served as indicators of political affiliation and national allegiance. Flags are steeped in the foundational mythology of a country, region, or group. Flags sum up moments of glory (while ignoring ignominious history). Flags foster a pride in identity that can unite people. Flags are the stuff of swelled chests and Independence Day parades.

But countries are composed of individuals who have private histories, relationships, hopes and dreams. Some people (or their ancestors) know firsthand their country’s failure to offer equality and justice to all its citizens. Most people use this national symbol to shade patriotism …

Changing Face Of Ottoman Imperial Image: Carpets Of Dolmabahce Palace, Turkiye, Elvan Anmac, Filiz Adigüzel Toprak

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

As a result of Westernization act within the State, flourishing from the end of 18th century, essential alteration took place in the social and cultural life in the Ottoman Empire. Western influence asserted itself intensively as soon as Sultan Abdulmecid (1839-61) was enthroned; it was Western style which was immediately imitated in State Governance as well as in every aspect of life, in architecture, architectural decoration, in furnishings, in clothing and home textiles such as upholstery fabrics and carpets used in Sultan Palaces. One of the most striking references of this alteration is the Dolmabahce Palace which was built in …

A Collaboration Through Academia Into Industry, Vita Plume

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This presentation is about two collaborative projects, Lees Carpets Funded Studio and Ameleon, of which I have had the honour to be a part. My involvement in these projects is a result of being on faculty in the Department of Art and Design at North Carolina State University.

I joined this University for several reasons. An important one among them was research. When I was hired, I understood this to mean the continuation of work on my artistic textile production. While I have in fact continued on this research line as well, in this paper I will discuss two collaborative …

Sustainability Of Handwoven Carpets In Turkey: The Context Of The Weaver, Kimberly Berman, Charlotte Jirousek

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Forms of Production

Past research, conducted mainly in the 1970s and 1980s, has identified three forms of production in which carpets are woven as commodities. These are petty-commodity production, the putting-out system, and workshop production.

Petty-commodity production involves weaving in the home, with the male head of the household or other male relatives selling the finished product to a carpet dealer or at a local or regional market (fig. 1). The family owns the loom and other weaving supplies, and family members purchase or prepare the yarn themselves. Under the putting-out system, the yarn, rug patterns and perhaps the loom …

Reading Prisoner Uniforms: The Concentration Camp Prisoner Uniform As A Primary Source For Historical Research, Lizou Fenyvesi

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A uniform of any kind, whether worn by a fireman, a nurse or a soldier, is designed to inform us about the person who wears it; and the same thing holds true for a prisoner uniform. In this presentation I am examining textiles from recent history: the prisoner uniforms from Nazi concentration camps; I attempt to “read” the information they contain.

Most, but not all, of the prisoner uniforms were striped. Iconography, in this case the stripes, is the most readily interpreted aspect of a textile. But other aspects of the uniforms are also well worth exploring. Manufacturing details, such …

Colorful Messages: The Revival Of Natural Dyes In Traditional Cuzco Textiles, Andrea M. Heckman

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Many weavers living near Cuzco, Peru are reviving the use of natural dyes in their traditional textiles. Since the introduction of chemical dyes in the late 19th century, the knowledge and practice of natural dyeing has declined dramatically for numerous reasons, including convenience, color preference, and environmental problems that have reduced the availability of natural dyestuffs. However, in the long heritage of Andean textiles, this epoch of chemical dyes is relatively short.

I began studying Andean textiles in the Cuzco region over twenty-five years ago. In 1979, I was a weaver/fiber artist when I visited Peru for the first time. …

Contemporary Hemp Weaving In Korea, Min-Sun Hwang

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Until the 1900s, hemp was one of four traditional textile fibers in Korea, the others being cotton, ramie, and silk. The production of hemp fabrics had traditionally been for family use, but since the 1950s, that tradition has ceased to exist. The present status of hemp production is, therefore, extremely limited to the rural regions, and practiced by only a small number of the elderly (fig. 1). Of the approximately thirteen hemp cultivation regions (fig. 2), the city of Andong developed a different technique in hemp fiber-making from the rest of the regions and this paper will cover hemp fabric …

The Narrative Scheme Of A Bengal Colcha Dating From The Early 17th Century Commissioned By The Portuguese, Barbara Karl

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In this article I analyse the iconographic programme of a large size embroidered textile dating from the early 17th century from the Hugli region in Bengal. The textile is part of subgroup (c) of the Solomon group. India has an extremely rich textile tradition. Every region has its peculiarities and techniques. Quilts were made all over the Indian subcontinent throughout the ages. Worn out clothes were not thrown away but were instead reused: Several layers of cloth were laid upon each other and were sewn together to be used in Indian homes. Most of them were very simple but some …

Symbolic Embellishment Of Ritual Textiles Used In Native American Burial Mounds, Harriet J. Taylor, Stephen A. Taylor

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Honouring the dead is a universal principle that has been evidenced since the dawn of time. Although burial of the dead has not been experienced universally, ritual burial practices have been widespread throughout millennia and it is through examination of burial sites that insight is gained into the manner in which tribute was paid to the dead. When humans became self-aware, understanding that there was a transition between life and the known world, to death and the unknown, those cultures that practiced burial rituals ensured that the dead were well equipped for what may lay ahead.

This paper discusses textile …

Weaving Generations Together: Evolving Creativity In The Maya Of Chiapas - Some Next Steps, Patricia Marks Greenfield

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Weaving Generations Together: Evolving Creativity in the Maya of Chiapas (2004) examines the impact of the economic transition from subsistence and agriculture to money and commerce on the transmission of weaving know-how, textile design, pattern representation, and the creative process of Zinacantec Maya weavers, following a large group of families in Chiapas, Mexico over a period of two decades. With the development of commerce, a relaxation of traditional "textile rules" and increasing innovation took place. Part of this process involved a shift in the definition of creativity from a community concept - in which the goal of clothing design was …

Author Biographies

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Textile Society of America

10th Biennial Symposium 2006

October 11–14, 2006

Harbourfront Centre

Toronto, Ontario

A-Z pp. 1-26

Copyright And Disclaimer

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Copyright and Disclaimer

Proceedings of the 10th Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Inc.

© 2007, Textile Society of America, Inc.

ISBN 0-9645106-6-9

Copyright of individual papers remains with each author.

All rights reserved. Published 2007. Printed in the United States of America.

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief excerpts for the purpose

of review, without written permission from the Textile Society of America. Students and

researchers wishing to cite the work of specific authors are encouraged to communicate directly

with those individuals as many of these papers represent work in …