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Sedimented For The Future: Can Technology Sustain Tradition?, Nihal Bursa May 2024

Sedimented For The Future: Can Technology Sustain Tradition?, Nihal Bursa

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Turkish coffee is unique in its brewing technique and deeply rooted in the culture developed throughout the Ottoman geography since the sixteenth century. The knowledge, skills and rituals of Turkish coffee are transmitted to new generations through observation, participation and practicing. Be it an elaborate ritual at the Ottoman court or a modest peasant pleasure, Turkish coffee requires dedicated time, manual skills and decorum. The pace of industrialization and urbanization in the twenty-first century forced people to acquire new lifestyles. This has put Turkish coffee service in jeopardy especially in public spaces. Owing to the Turkish coffee machine designed by …


Savouring The Veiled Narratives Of Banquet Menus, Adriana Sohodoleanu May 2024

Savouring The Veiled Narratives Of Banquet Menus, Adriana Sohodoleanu

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The study explores the semiotic significance of late nineteenth to early twentieth-century Romanian banquet menus, transcending culinary functions to convey broader societal messages. Examining 30 menus from Romania and Austro-Hungarian Romanian-speaking Transylvania, predominantly sourced from newspapers, it reveals banquets as platforms for political and social expression. Written in Romanian or French, these menus serve as conduits for political opinions, declarations of friendship or enmity, and expressions of pride or despair. Intentionally published in newspapers, they reflect a society valuing freedom of speech and exhibit a discernible discursive character, treating food as intellectual nourishment. The coverage of banquets in newspapers offers …


Creating A Gastrolinguistic Space: Food In Language Learning Materials Of Jesuit Missionaries During The Sixteenth To The Eighteenth Centuries, Zhongyuan Hu May 2024

Creating A Gastrolinguistic Space: Food In Language Learning Materials Of Jesuit Missionaries During The Sixteenth To The Eighteenth Centuries, Zhongyuan Hu

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This article investigates the intersection of language and gastronomy in European Jesuit missionaries’ language learning materials in China during the late sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries. Through the analysis of three key texts, the article emphasizes the significance of food-related content in fostering linguistic and cultural understanding. It provides a thorough examination of how these texts facilitated cultural exchange, highlighting the role of food in creating a space for dialogue between European and Chinese cultures. This article introduces gastrolinguistics, the combination and interaction of food and language, to explore how missionaries adapted to and learned about Chinese culture and introduced …


The Little Black Book: When Recipes Tell Stories, Cordula C. Peters May 2024

The Little Black Book: When Recipes Tell Stories, Cordula C. Peters

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

In post-war Germany in the 1950s my grandmother used to collect recipes from magazines, newspapers, and the backs of food packaging that she neatly cut out and saved. Other recipes were carefully copied with pen and ink. At some point, when my mother was still a child and my grandmother still alive, she and her sister compiled all these recipes and tidily pasted them into a black notebook for safekeeping. Growing up many of the recipes from this book became much-loved dishes prepared by my mother and expected by my siblings and I almost religiously for important holidays such as …


Catering And Hospitality Trade Press Periodicals: Their Emergence, Their Memories, Their Preservation, Carina J. Mansey May 2024

Catering And Hospitality Trade Press Periodicals: Their Emergence, Their Memories, Their Preservation, Carina J. Mansey

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

In Victorian England, cultural, industrial, technological, and financial flows led to two industries being subject to processes of professionalisation: catering and hospitality, and the independent press. As such, a new form of media emerged, the trade press, which catered for those working in the catering and hospitality industry. This press content documents not only the industry’s operations, but also the aspirations and attitudes of employees, their employers, and other key stakeholders. This allows for us to glimpse into past lifeworlds and extract forgotten memories. We are able to witness how ethnoscapes characterised the trade, but also led to integration conflicts. …


No Time For Tea: Hidden Figures Of The Dutch Tea Industry, Annette Kappert, Lysbeth Vink May 2024

No Time For Tea: Hidden Figures Of The Dutch Tea Industry, Annette Kappert, Lysbeth Vink

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This paper explores the historical role women played in promoting, distributing, and establishing tea consumption in The Netherlands. Despite being the first nation to introduce tea to the Western world, and the abundance of literature and images documenting women as sapless tea drinkers, languishing their afternoons away, entertaining and sipping the amber brew in their tea houses, the latter is far from reality. Preliminary research indicates Dutch women were instrumental in establishing an elite tea industry in The Netherlands and beyond. Aptly the authors utilized the archives to explore visual and narrative data dating from 1610 to present, to find …


Obedient Bellies And The Coming Of Urbanization In Fourth Millennium Mesopotamia, Saikat Mukherjee May 2024

Obedient Bellies And The Coming Of Urbanization In Fourth Millennium Mesopotamia, Saikat Mukherjee

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Hunger has always been a persistent trauma of mankind in every age. As a matter of fact, “hunger” which according to Seth Richardson can be defined as the "routine and everyday sub-nutrition, less than a famine and more than a temporary inconvenience" is “one of the most powerful, pervasive and (arguably) emotive words in our historical vocabulary” (Richardson, 2016; Murton, 1988). Food has been the only way to satiate the mass cry and is overlooked by social and economic historians and/or archaeologists as a potent medium to understand an interdependent mass psychology. We seldom try to study food at the …


The Influence Of Trauma And Tradition In Culinary Conformity And Chef Retention: Is Institutional Isomorphism Forcing Culinary Homogeneity Impacting Chef Retention?, Kevin Ward May 2024

The Influence Of Trauma And Tradition In Culinary Conformity And Chef Retention: Is Institutional Isomorphism Forcing Culinary Homogeneity Impacting Chef Retention?, Kevin Ward

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

For chefs, the kitchen is not merely a workplace. It is a complex socio-cultural domain shaped by history, tradition, and societal expectations, where a separate world view is shared, along with the ritual customs, artefacts and practices that define them as a tribe. Indeed chefs have a distinctive transformative power as role models, with the capacity to bestow symbolic meaning to food, the fabric of our memories, societies, and daily practices. The culinary domain, like any other institution, is defined not solely by its creations, but also by its perpetuated lived experiences including traumas, memories or traces, created and preserved …


The Carbonara Case: Italian Food And The Race To Conquer Consumers’ Memories, Marco Ginanneschi May 2024

The Carbonara Case: Italian Food And The Race To Conquer Consumers’ Memories, Marco Ginanneschi

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Can a recipe divide historians, gastronomes, and chefs? The answer is yes if we are dealing with carbonara, an iconic Italian dish, famous throughout the world. However, so much animosity could have deeper roots than the recently renewed controversy over its authorship suggests. This article aims to study the case of carbonara as an example of the race to conquer consumers’ memories. Following a transdisciplinary methodology, the author identifies three main approaches to the making of carbonara: glocal, regional, and creative. These approaches reflect distinct schools of thought regarding food within the diverse spectrum of Italian society. Their supporters - …


Food, Memory, And Cuban Society: Unraveling Trauma, Traditions, And Future Imaginaries In Havana, Mallory Cerkleski May 2024

Food, Memory, And Cuban Society: Unraveling Trauma, Traditions, And Future Imaginaries In Havana, Mallory Cerkleski

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This paper delves into the intricate interplay of food scarcity and memory in contemporary Havana, Cuba, drawing on a period of immersive fieldwork conducted in the summer of 2022. Situating itself amidst the lived experiences of diverse Cubans, the study examines the enduring impact of historical challenges, particularly the Special Period, on present-day perceptions and experiences. Employing an oral history methodology rooted in collective memory theory, the research explores how food serves as a potent medium for encapsulating past experiences and shaping future imaginaries. Through oral narratives spanning from 1941 to 2022, the paper uncovers diverse memories and emotions associated …


Workplace Trauma In Professional Kitchens: Experiences Of Part-Time Undergraduate Culinary Arts Students In Ireland, Orla Mc Connell, Gillian Larkin May 2024

Workplace Trauma In Professional Kitchens: Experiences Of Part-Time Undergraduate Culinary Arts Students In Ireland, Orla Mc Connell, Gillian Larkin

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

As the hospitality industry continues to struggle with attracting and retaining employees, chefs in particular, research on culture in kitchens continues to grow. A recent report in Ireland exposed a culture of bullying and harassment of employees in the hospitality sector. Internationally, researchers have explored the complexity of navigating, belonging, and coping in professional kitchens and have subsequently identified how trauma is embedded in the practice of cooking and serving food. The research to date has largely focused on the perspectives of cooks, and chefs, particularly those who work in elite restaurants, so little is known about the student experience. …


Food And Memory In Literature: A Folkloric Approach, Pola Schiavone May 2024

Food And Memory In Literature: A Folkloric Approach, Pola Schiavone

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This paper analyzes food as a memory device in the novel Doña Flor y sus dos maridos by the Brazilian author Jorge Amado. Set in San Salvador du Bahía in northern Brazil, the novel follows Doña Flor after her husband Vadinho dies. Food and drink – considered here as folkloric forms – play a central role not only in her exploration of memories of her husband but also in the broader bahiana society with its mix of different ethnicities (African, indigenous, European). Drawing on Felix Coluccio’s and Dan Ben-Amos notions of folklore and literature and Arjun Appadurai’s exploration of the …


The Wild Arctic Char In Swedish Sápmi – From Staple Ingredient To Nostalgic Food, Julia C. Carrillo Ocampo May 2024

The Wild Arctic Char In Swedish Sápmi – From Staple Ingredient To Nostalgic Food, Julia C. Carrillo Ocampo

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The way food is preserved, prepared and consumed is embedded in cultural symbolism strongly connected to the geographical landscape. This article focuses on the memories of Sami actors within the wild Arctic char value chain to explore how changes in the foodscape influence the way this produce is prepared and consumed in contemporary Sápmi and the use and view of traditional preservation techniques. The empirical material was obtained through interviews and observations with Sami actors as they are the dominant agents related to this produce. Consequently, I traced different narratives attached to the char in the region called Swedish Sápmi …


The Subconscious Of Traditional Practices: Turkish Cuisine, Serife Umay Cicik May 2024

The Subconscious Of Traditional Practices: Turkish Cuisine, Serife Umay Cicik

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Turkey stands out among the leading countries, particularly in the consumption of meat, milk, and dairy products. In terms of climate and physical conditions, it has the capacity to produce these commodities domestically. Additionally, it is situated in a geographically advantageous position rich in seafood resources. Turkish cuisine is further enriched by dishes and desserts prepared with dough. However, food preparation and cooking methods, equipment, storage conditions, presentation styles, consumption habits, spices, and sauces bear traces of various culinary cultures. Wars, natural disasters, political events, trade routes, and religious structures are among the factors that most significantly influence these differences. …


The Appliance Of Science: Traditions And Change In Food Preparation Using Small Domestic Electrical Appliances, Susan Bailey May 2024

The Appliance Of Science: Traditions And Change In Food Preparation Using Small Domestic Electrical Appliances, Susan Bailey

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Food preparation in a domestic context has evolved through the application of technology. When electricity became available and motors to power appliances were developed from the late nineteenth century onwards, this made a significant change to the use of appliances for food preparation from post-Second World War onwards. This paper explores the history of and increasing use of small domestic electrical appliances used for food preparation and their development and transition from a commercial to a domestic context. Between the 1950s and 1980s in Britain, the development and promotion of a range of new small domestic electrical appliances were important …


Lost But Not Found: Southern Appalachia, Migration Patterns, And Culinary Tourism, Ashli Q. Stokes, Wendy Atkins-Sayre May 2024

Lost But Not Found: Southern Appalachia, Migration Patterns, And Culinary Tourism, Ashli Q. Stokes, Wendy Atkins-Sayre

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Despite growing acknowledgement of the variety of cultures that developed Southern Appalachia’s cuisine, some popular food writing continues to highlight the so-called insular nature of its food, drink, and culinary festivals. Regional tourists, especially those visiting its Blue Ridge or Smoky mountains, also remain likely to experience a delimited, often problematic Scots-Irish or white-European pioneer past, including when they eat and drink. Billboards advertise the outlaw Hatfield and McCoy Dinner Show, visitors choose from moonshine tastings in dilapidated looking but new distilleries, and diners enjoy gourmet biscuits alongside gravy “flights” at trendy restaurants in Asheville, North Carolina. Appalachian Studies and …


Pork Problems - Embodied Britishisms Onboard The First Fleet To Australia, Evelyn Lambeth May 2024

Pork Problems - Embodied Britishisms Onboard The First Fleet To Australia, Evelyn Lambeth

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Pigs arrived in Australia with British settlers onboard the First Fleet in 1788 and rapidly spread. As a product of British Imperialism, Australia has adopted many cultural consumption practices from its parent colony. Meat is on many tables, but not every table showcases the same animal, and these cultural differences illustrate that conditions of edibility are not equally defined. British values were attached to pigs, embedding them with transformative abilities to shape colonial ecosystems. Australian industries, jobs, and livelihoods are deeply connected to the past. The East India Company introduced Chinese pigs to Britain from 1685. The history of pigs …


The Women Eat Last: Traditions, Table Manners, And Gender Narratives At The Romanian Dining Table, Alexandra Constantinescu May 2024

The Women Eat Last: Traditions, Table Manners, And Gender Narratives At The Romanian Dining Table, Alexandra Constantinescu

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Rooted in a rich history, with decades of oppressive politics and patriarchal displays of power, Romanian culture is shaped by complex narratives of resistance, endurance, adaptation, and transformation. Gender discourses in traditional Romanian culture portray women as the ideal frontline worker, heroic mother, outstanding housewife and an active member of the community. Expected to sacrifice personal aspirations and lifestyle for the well-being of others, they would almost exclusively be tasked with sourcing, preparing, and serving food for the family. They would be the last to sit at the family dining table - and the last to eat. In contrast, the …


An Urban Vegetable Garden: A Blooming For The Food Memory Of The Future, Cynthia Luderer May 2024

An Urban Vegetable Garden: A Blooming For The Food Memory Of The Future, Cynthia Luderer

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This work concerns an urban vegetable garden beyond 200 plots in Famalicão (northern Portugal) and aims to check out mnemic narratives circulating there linked to gastronomy and technical agricultural resources that have been used in the past. This research has been developed since last December/2022 and will check this environment for four seasons of the year. Its methodology is based on an ethnographic exercise, using flanerie dynamics and the application of interviews with open-ended questions. This analysis is supported by the Anthropology of Food, the concept of Collective Memory, by Halbwachs, and the Semiotics of Culture, by Iuri Lotman, approaching …


Between Memory And History: Irish Pubs As Sites Of Memory And Invention, Perry Share, Moonyoung Hong May 2024

Between Memory And History: Irish Pubs As Sites Of Memory And Invention, Perry Share, Moonyoung Hong

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The pub has been at the centre of Irish culture and identity for at least two centuries, has become a pillar of the Irish tourism “product,” and an export commodity as thousands of themed “Irish pubs” have been established across the world in the last number of decades, supplementing existing establishments that have served the global Irish community. This paper draws on key themes from the diverse material in our upcoming academic volume on the Irish pub, to be published by Cork University Press, later in 2024. The book brings together contributions from scholars of history, sociology, design, literature, culinary …


Traditional Polish Roasted Duck From The "Dino" Supermarket: Politicizing And Negotiating Tradition Through Culinary Competitions For Rural Housewives' Clubs, Yuliia Andriichuk May 2024

Traditional Polish Roasted Duck From The "Dino" Supermarket: Politicizing And Negotiating Tradition Through Culinary Competitions For Rural Housewives' Clubs, Yuliia Andriichuk

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The article describes how food practices and narratives associated with tradition can function as a tool for political propaganda. By organizing culinary competitions and festivals, local government offices and state institutions strive to unite potential voters under the common idea of cultivating Polish traditions. A group perfectly suited to this task seems to be Rural Housewives' Clubs, a widespread form of women's association in Poland. Despite the variety of tasks they perform in their villages, they are mainly associated with cooking and broadly understood tradition. Participating in such competitions is not only a good way to mobilize members and promote …


Forbidden Fruit: Mary Cassatt’S Mural Of “Modern Woman” At The World’S Columbian Exposition, Chicago 1893, Tricia Cusack May 2024

Forbidden Fruit: Mary Cassatt’S Mural Of “Modern Woman” At The World’S Columbian Exposition, Chicago 1893, Tricia Cusack

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This paper considers a large mural of “The Modern Woman” painted in France by the American artist Mary Cassatt for the Woman’s Building at the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. It focuses in particular on the large central panel of the mural titled Young Women Plucking the Fruits of Knowledge or Science that depicts women and girls apple-picking. Cassatt’s mural drew on various traditions and myths. Apple harvesting was a common sight in America. Cassatt’s title though points to the story of Eve and forbidden fruit, in which Eve seeks knowledge, but is severely punished for it. Cassatt …


Bittersweet Spirits: Transnational Food Memory And The Persistent Production Of Non-Mainstream Alcohol In Trinidad, Shrinagar Indra Francis May 2024

Bittersweet Spirits: Transnational Food Memory And The Persistent Production Of Non-Mainstream Alcohol In Trinidad, Shrinagar Indra Francis

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Whether we perceive the process of food leaving its mark on our culture as a function of genetic or collective memory, or a combination, informs the ways we interrogate the continued existence of these foods and their practices across time and landscapes. Within the postcolonial context, the process of re-embodiment is an inherently bittersweet one in that it comes as a consequence of loss and rupture and is motivated by a desire to be remade. Prior to colonialism, the production of alcohol was a profound aspect of the lives of the many peoples of West and West-Central Africa. Descendants of …


Traces Of Tradition: Exploring The “Food In Olden Times” Theme Within The Irish Folklore Commission Schools’ Collection 1937–39, Caitríona Nic Philibín May 2024

Traces Of Tradition: Exploring The “Food In Olden Times” Theme Within The Irish Folklore Commission Schools’ Collection 1937–39, Caitríona Nic Philibín

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Ireland’s rich folklore archives provide a wealth of insight into the memories of her people. The importance of recording oral history across Ireland in the late 1930’s spurred the Folklore Commission to establish the Schools’ Collection (SC). Essentially, the commission enlisted national school children, within the Irish Free State, to collect the memories of the their relatives and older people within their communities. The culmination of these efforts resulted in over 700,000 documents illuminating Ireland’s traditions, customs and practices. Analysis of the children’s findings reveals exciting local and regional traditions through the words of curious pupils discovering the food memories …


The Revival Of Heritage Beers: The Case Of Farmhouse Beers From Northern Europe, Clark Danderson May 2024

The Revival Of Heritage Beers: The Case Of Farmhouse Beers From Northern Europe, Clark Danderson

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

As the craft beer revolution continues to grow, both commercial brewers and homebrewers have shown considerable interest in rediscovering the beer of the past. Many of these beer styles faced near extinction due to various factors. Some involve changes to brewing, such as the industrialization of the brewing process, the widespread availability of pure commercial yeast cultures, and the popularity of closed fermentation in cylindroconical fermentors. Other societal factors include changes in consumer preference, generational shifts, and urbanization. Lastly, environmental factors, such as climate change and pollution, present persistent challenges. The beer styles that were most endangered often held a …


Out Of The Frying Pan And Into The Fire: Food As Community Archives In Ireland, Ella Padden May 2024

Out Of The Frying Pan And Into The Fire: Food As Community Archives In Ireland, Ella Padden

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Food permeates every aspect of life; there is no class or culture that does not eat, no society that has not developed its own cuisine. Since 2010, twenty-nine entries related to food have been added to the UNESCO Representative list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, designating food as a complex marker of cultural heritage. This paper argues that as archives seek to preserve and steward culture, they must consider how that includes food records. Food records in Ireland are decentralized, and few in number, leaving a gap in cultural repositories. Through semi-structured interviews, this thesis analyses the interactions between archivists and …


Reclaiming Lost And Disregarded Voices: In The Vine Country, Memory, Female Independence And Wine Writing In The Victorian Age, Jane Sevastopulo May 2024

Reclaiming Lost And Disregarded Voices: In The Vine Country, Memory, Female Independence And Wine Writing In The Victorian Age, Jane Sevastopulo

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The historical role of Bordeaux and the consumption of claret throughout Georgian and Victorian Ireland has been explored. That fine red wines were drunk and enjoyed by the ascendancy in Ireland is not unusual. What is unusual, however, is the place of In the Vine Country,a Somerville-and-Ross travelogue commissioned and written for the Lady’s Pictorial: A Newspaper for the Home, an illustrated weekly paper founded in 1880, aimed at middle-class women in Victorian era Great Britain and Ireland. From Castletownshend, Co. Cork and Oughterard, Co. Galway, cousins Edith Œ. Somerville (1858-1949), and Violet Martin (1862-1915) were writing partners. …


Caesar’S Cervisia, Travis Rupp May 2024

Caesar’S Cervisia, Travis Rupp

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Examinations of Roman cuisine often downplay the role of beer in the ancient Roman diet seeing it as a symbol of barbarity. This essay examines the plausibility of beer as a standard component of the Roman soldier’s diet and seeks to highlight when it may have become necessary for military advancement. Julius Caesar’s reliance on auxiliary forces to campaign in the North from 58-51 BCE ensured that cultures known for producing beer influenced legionary forces reliant on local resources to survive. This essay also asserts the implausibility of wine consumption amongst Caesar’s men and concludes that the acceptance of beer …


Butter Woman, Farmer’S Wife And Housewife Of The Year: Tracing Women In Ireland’S Domestic Food History, Gemma M. Carney May 2024

Butter Woman, Farmer’S Wife And Housewife Of The Year: Tracing Women In Ireland’S Domestic Food History, Gemma M. Carney

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This article uses three distinct roles to sketch out the influence of women on Ireland’s domestic food history. Drawing on a range of primary and secondary sources including the Irish Butter Museum, the Irish Farmer’s Journal and qualitative interviews the article charts a course for tracing women’s integral role in the maintenance of food culture and traditions through a century of significant social and cultural change. As butter women, farmer’s wives, and housewives, women interacted with state and social structures in ways which demonstrate how patriarchal principles dominated Irish culture and society throughout the twentieth century. The paper concludes that …


Food As Hidden Resistance: Traumatic Memory And Food Criticism From A Revolutionary's Prison Diary In Colonial Taiwan, Yu-Yin Hsu, Fong-Ming Yang May 2024

Food As Hidden Resistance: Traumatic Memory And Food Criticism From A Revolutionary's Prison Diary In Colonial Taiwan, Yu-Yin Hsu, Fong-Ming Yang

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The aim of this study is to analyze the critical writings and traumatic memories recorded in a diary kept by Jian Ji (1903-1951) while in prison. As a first-generation leader of the peasant movement in colonial Taiwan in the 1920s, Jian Ji knew more about the types of grain and the fundamental interaction between food and the human body. However, he was imprisoned for his social activism and continued to write a journal, expressing his feelings and grievances. He showed his concern about the agricultural policy in Taiwan. Most notably, he commented on eating in prison. Through these food criticisms, …