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Full-Text Articles in Physical Sciences and Mathematics
Nearshore And Surf-Zone Morphodynamics : A Global Environmental Model For Predicting Hazards And Changes, L. D. Wright, N. C. Shi, John D. Boon
Nearshore And Surf-Zone Morphodynamics : A Global Environmental Model For Predicting Hazards And Changes, L. D. Wright, N. C. Shi, John D. Boon
Reports
The long-term goal of the project has been to develop improved, accurate predictability of nearshore, surf zone, and beach hydrodynamic and morphologic assemblages, based on lucidation of the universal principles governing nearshore and surf zone morphodynamic behavior.
Nearshore And Surf-Zone Morphodynamics: A Global Environmental Model For Predicting Hazards And Changes. Appendix 6. Standing Waves On A Pronounced Bar Trough Beach, Nungjane C. Shi, L. D. Wright
Nearshore And Surf-Zone Morphodynamics: A Global Environmental Model For Predicting Hazards And Changes. Appendix 6. Standing Waves On A Pronounced Bar Trough Beach, Nungjane C. Shi, L. D. Wright
Reports
The hypothesis that a pronounced bar-trough surf zone topography favors resonance of standing waves with antinodes located over the bar is examined. Numerical and field investigations of standing waves in a bar-trough surf zone suggest a selective trapping of wave energy at specific resonant frequencies in the subharmonic and the high frequency infragravity bands and a possible suppression of lower frequencies. The resonant frequencies predicted by the numerical model remain fairly constant throughtout the tidal cycle due to the small tidal range typically associated with a bar-trough beach. Cross-shore bar migration changes the resonant frequencies. Numerical simulations show that an …