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Geology

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Geology Faculty Publications

Sediments

Publication Year

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Full-Text Articles in Physical Sciences and Mathematics

First Year Morphological Evolution Of An Artificial Berm At Fort Myers Beach, Florida, Katherine Brutsche, Ping Wang Jan 2012

First Year Morphological Evolution Of An Artificial Berm At Fort Myers Beach, Florida, Katherine Brutsche, Ping Wang

Geology Faculty Publications

This Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) documents the sediment characteristics and first year morphological evolution of an artificial berm placed just offshore in Fort Myers Beach, Florida, based on a series of field data collection periods during the first year after the berm construction.


Beach Profile Evolution Under Plunging And Spilling Breakers, Ping Wang, Bruce A. Ebersole, Ernest R. Smith Jan 2003

Beach Profile Evolution Under Plunging And Spilling Breakers, Ping Wang, Bruce A. Ebersole, Ernest R. Smith

Geology Faculty Publications

Beach-profile evolution, along with measurements of waves, currents, and sediment concentration, under spilling and plunging breakers of similar height were studied in the three-dimensional Large-Scale Sediment Transport Facility at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Unidirectional irregular waves were generated over a fine-sand beach. Beach-profile shape reached equilibrium after 1,330 and 280 min of spilling and plunging wave actions, respectively. Near the main breaker line, the profile evolved differently under plunging and spilling breakers. Across most of the midsurf zone dominated by surf bores, the equilibrium profile shapes were similar. Uniform energy dissipation per unit volume at equilibrium, …


Longshore Sediment Transport As A Function Of Energy Dissipation, Ernest R. Smith, Ping Wang Jan 2001

Longshore Sediment Transport As A Function Of Energy Dissipation, Ernest R. Smith, Ping Wang

Geology Faculty Publications

Experiments to measure waves, currents, and sediment transport rate for two breaker types, plunging and spilling, were conducted in a large-scale three-dimensional physical model. It was found that there was a large difference in cross-shore distribution and total sediment transport rate between the two breaker types. Total transport rates compared to existing predictive equations. The equations generally did not predict the data well. With the exception of the Kamphuis (1991) equation, which included a dependence on wave period, the predictive equations did not differentiate between breaker types.