Arts and Humanities Commons^™

A Historical Overview And Description Of The University Of Kwazulu-Natal’S Ceremonial And Academic Attire, Andrew-John Bethke

Transactions of the Burgon Society

he University of KwaZulu-Natal was legally constituted in 2004 when the University of Natal was amalgamated with the University of Durban-Westville. In the early 2000s, the South African government sought to decrease the number of higher education institutions in the country from thirty-six to twenty-one through amalgamation. This article describes the process by which the current university developed its ceremonial and academic dress.

Peculiar And Proper Habits: The Use And Production Of Academic Dress In Colonial, Revolutionary, And Federal Philadelphia, Nicholas Heavens

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This is a study of the adoption and use of academic dress at the University of Pennsylvania and its predecessor institutions, the College of Philadelphia and University of the State of Pennsylvania from approximately 1750–1830. Despite early interest of the College’s founder, Benjamin Franklin, to use academic dress to monitor student activities outside college bounds, there was soon contentious debate between the institution’s founding senior academics about whether academic dress should be used at all. By sheer force of will of its leading proponent, academic dress came into use at public ceremonies. These public ceremonies became a model for public …

A Study Of The History And Use Of Lace On Academical Gowns In The United Kingdom And Ireland: Updates And Corrections, Charles Rupert Tsua

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This article is a supplement to my 2012 article in the Transactions. In the last few years research has answered some of the questions I raised in the original article, and has uncovered some ambiguities that may require further study. I shall follow a similar format to the original article, but list only the laces which need updating due to new information.

Coloured Velvet Is Too Gaudy: The 1861 Reforms To The Academical Costume Of The University Of London, Bruce Christianson

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The University of London’s original system of academic dress was adopted by the Senate in 1844, and made extensive use of velvet on both gowns and hoods. In 1861 London adopted a radically new system, which eliminated the use of velvet and which has (with various amendments and additions) remained recognizably in use to this day. This article tells the story of how the revision came about, by tracing its progress through the Minute Book of Convocation.

Bristol Blue: A Search For The Origins Of Academic Dress At The University Of Bristol, Paul Hayward

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This article gives the results of research into the origins of academic dress at the University of Bristol, and is principally concerned with the regulations surrounding that subject. As such, it does not look into the actual use of academic dress. For example, undergraduate gowns still form part of the official regulations, but they are not to be seen in the University today. This falls outside the scope of this research.

Erratum: The Lack Of A Theology Hood At The University Of The West Indies, Mitchell A. Nicholls

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In the printed edition of Volume 20, p. 162, Mitchell A. Nicholls’ article ‘The Lack of a Theology Hood at the University of the West Indies’ erred in spelling out the degree BCL. It is a Bachelor of Civil Law, not Canon Law. The error was corrected before the digital edition of Volume 20 was uploaded.

Editor’S Note, Stephen Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

No abstract provided.

The Curious Case Of A Women’S Academic Collar, Valentina S. Grub

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In mid-nineteenth century America, women’s seminaries were established as a counterpoint to men’s colleges. However, while their male counterparts immediately adopted various iterations of academic gowns, these seminaries struggled to formalize their own academic attire. One element of it was a ‘collar’ made of fine mesh and, most unusually, sectioned into panels by lengths of boning. The ends would have been drawn around the back of the neck and fastened by a row of tiny, cumbersome hooks and eyes. As an academic accessory, such a collar has hitherto been unknown to the academic dress academe. Moreover, it offers a scholarly …

Front Matter, Editorial Board

Transactions of the Burgon Society

No abstract provided.

Fossils In Silk: Historical Hoods Of Trinity College, Toronto, Colin Fleming

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The hoods used by Trinity College at the University of Toronto bear out to some extent what Groves and Christianson suggested, namely that ‘colonial universities initially borrowed their [academical dress] from the mother country, and particularly, in the case of British colonies, from the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge.’ The hoods we saw at the conference provide evidence that Trinity College may represent an archaeological record of Canadian interpretations (or adaptations) of historical UK usage. The robes of the College have been described in various catalogues and other publications from 1875 to the present, and these sources provided valuable clues …

The Invention Of Tradition: The Cambridge Benefactors’ Gowns, Simon Morris

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This article examines the emergence of a new phenomenon in academic dress that has developed over the past twenty years—the awarding of special gowns by some colleges of the University of Cambridge to recognize individual donors and reward their munificence. This appears to be predominantly—albeit not exclusively—a Cambridge phenomenon, and for reasons advanced below not replicated at Oxford University. This article considers in turn whether benefactors’ gowns qualify as academic dress, the reasons for their institution and the criteria for their design. It then looks at the two types of design that have been used, paying particular attention to the …

University Of Portsmouth Academic Dress, Philip Goff

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The University of Portsmouth has its origins in the Portsmouth and Gosport School of Science and Art (1870), the Portsmouth Municipal Technical Institute (1894) and Portsmouth Municipal College (1908), which replaced the earlier Institute. The College also took under its wing the College of Art, Portsmouth Day Training College for teachers and a public library.This article examines the development of academic dress at the University of Portsmouth.

History And Development Of University Doctoral Academical Dress In Aotearoa (New Zealand), Scott Pilkington

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In 2018 it was announced that Auckland University of Technology (AUT) would join the other seven universities in Aotearoa (New Zealand) in offering a higher doctorate qualification. As part of this process it became apparent that new academical dress would need to be designed and created. Working in the university’s Graduate Research School gave me an opportunity to provide input, and as a result, I designed a new set of academic dress for these qualifications in conjunction with the university’s official robemaker, Paul Fielder (FBS).

This provided a prompt to examine what academical dress exists for existing AUT doctorates – …

Lia Brozgal. Absent The Archive. Liverpool Up, 2020., Aubrey Gabel

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Lia Brozgal. Absent the Archive. Liverpool UP, 2020. 368 pp.

Jason Herbeck. Architextual Authenticity: Constructing Literature And Literary Identity In The French Caribbean. Liverpool Up, 2017; 2020., Nathan H. Dize

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Jason Herbeck. Architextual Authenticity: Constructing Literature and Literary Identity in the French Caribbean. Liverpool UP, 2017; 2020. x + 330 pp.

Candelas Gala. Clara Janés: La Poética Cuántica O La Física De La Poesía. Csic, 2021., Nicolás Fernández-Medina

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Candelas Gala. Clara Janés: La poética cuántica o la física de la poesía. CSIC, 2021. 203 pp.

Joel Scott, Translator. The Aesthetics Of Resistance, Volume Ii. By Peter Weiss. Duke Up, 2020., Mona Eikel-Pohen

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Joel Scott, translator. The Aesthetics of Resistance, Volume II. By Peter Weiss. Duke UP, 2020. x + 320pp.

Emily Johansen. Beyond Safety: Risk, Cosmopolitanism, And Contemporary Neoliberal Life. Bloomsbury, 2021., Irene Gammel, Jason Wang

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Emily Johansen. Beyond Safety: Risk, Cosmopolitanism, and Contemporary Neoliberal Life. Bloomsbury, 2021. xiii + 171 pp.

Melanie C. Hawthorne. Women, Citizenship, And Sexuality: The Transnational Lives Of Renée Vivien, Romaine Brooks, And Natalie Barney. Liverpool Up, 2021., Jennifer Carr

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Melanie C. Hawthorne. Women, Citizenship, and Sexuality: The Transnational Lives of Renée Vivien, Romaine Brooks, and Natalie Barney. Liverpool UP, 2021. 167 pp.

Violette Leduc's Feminist Flâneries, Kaliane Ung

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Popularized by Charles Baudelaire and Walter Benjamin, the modern figure of the flâneur disrupts the pace of the city as he strolls the streets, making his way into the world through wandering and daydreaming. Assimilated to an available body to seduce, a woman walking alone does not have the same experience. However, in spite of constant interruptions in her outward and inward exploration, the flâneuse reinvents the act of walking through a form of solidarity that enables her to transcend the limits of her own body. Focusing on Violette Leduc who wrote on female sexuality in a daring way, I …

Mette Leonard Høeg, Editor. Literary Theories Of Uncertainty. Bloomsbury, 2021., Samantha Lepak

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Mette Leonard Høeg, editor. Literary Theories of Uncertainty. Bloomsbury, 2021. xi + 295 pp.

Stephen Ross, Editor. Modernism, Theory, And Responsible Reading: A Critical Conversation. Bloomsbury Academic, 2022., Anne Cunningham

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Stephen Ross, editor. Modernism, Theory, and Responsible Reading: A Critical Conversation. Bloomsbury Academic, 2022. 239 pp

Jim T. Reed. Genesis: The Making Of Literary Works From Homer To Christa Wolf. Camden House, 2020., Chiedozie M. Uhuegbu

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Jim T. Reed. Genesis: The Making of Literary Works from Homer to Christa Wolf. Camden House, 2020. 301 pp.

Jacqueline Vansant. Austria Made In Hollywood. Camden House, 2019., Jason Doerre

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Jacqueline Vansant. Austria Made in Hollywood. Camden House, 2019. 196 pp.

Graham Bartram, Sarah Mcgaughey, And Galin Tihanov, Editors. A Companion To The Works Of Hermann Broch. Camden House, 2019., Orel Beilinson

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Graham Bartram, Sarah McGaughey, and Galin Tihanov, editors. A Companion to the Works of Hermann Broch. Camden House, 2019. xii + 278 pp.

Ari J. Blatt And Edward Welch, Editors. France In Flux: Space, Territory, And Contemporary Culture. Liverpool Up, 2019., Suzanne Black

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Ari J. Blatt and Edward Welch, editors. France in Flux: Space, Territory, and Contemporary Culture. Liverpool UP, 2019. xiii + 221 pp.

Joseba Gabilondo. Introduction To A Postnational History Of Contemporary Basque Literature (1978-2000): Remnants Of The Nation. Tamesis, 2019., Belén Rodríguez Mourelo

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Joseba Gabilondo. Introduction to A Postnational History of Contemporary Basque Literature (1978-2000): Remnants of the Nation. Tamesis, 2019. xii +338 pp.

Jonathan F. Krell. Ecocritics And Ecoskeptics: A Humanist Reading Of Recent French Ecofiction. Liverpool Up, 2020., Lisa Connell

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Jonathan F. Krell. Ecocritics and Ecoskeptics: A Humanist Reading of Recent French Ecofiction. Liverpool UP, 2020, 261 pp.

The Power To (Dis)Please: Supernatural Horror And History In Célanire Cou-Coupé, Livi Yoshioka-Maxwell

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

In this essay, I read Maryse Condé’s Célanire cou-coupé (Who Slashed Celanire’s Throat?) as a work of supernatural horror fiction in order to participate in Condé’s reflections on the complexities of interpreting histories of violence. In response to Chris Bongie’s call to re-evaluate Condé’s engagement with popular literature, I contend that popular literacies can be just as useful as more arcane cultural knowledge for interpreting this and other novels by Condé. Previous studies of Condé’s use of popular devices in Célanire cou-coupé approached the novel as an example of the Todorovian fantastique. In positing the eponymous Célanire …

Claire Launchbury And Megan C. Macdonald, Editors. Urban Bridges, Global Capital(S): Trans-Mediterranean Francosphères. Liverpool Up, 2021., Maria Vendetti

Studies in 20th & 21st Century Literature

Review of Claire Launchbury and Megan C. MacDonald, editors. Urban Bridges, Global Capital(s): Trans-Mediterranean Francosphères. Liverpool UP, 2021. 224 pp.