Digital Commons Network^™

Delineating Women’S Historical Lives Through Textiles: A Latvian Knitter’S Narrative Of Memory, Eileen Wheeler

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In presenting and analyzing the narrative of a woman who knitted for survival, I engage two continuing marginalizations in mainstream history; that the lives of ‘everyday’ women are poorly delineated and that the realm of textiles is undervalued as a source of knowledge.

Outside the visual art domain the status and potential of textile study, with its associations of domesticity and craft, is little valued. Yet textiles have a history of being associated with many other aspects of women’s lives, a relationship that is slowly being probed for the knowledge it may hold (Parker, 1984; Tickner, 1988; Ulrich, 2001). Through …

The Swedish Presence In 20th-Century American Weaving, Marion T. Marzolf

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Swedish weavers who arrived in the United States in the early 20th century before World War I found hand weaving a dying art in the United States, but their own skills were valued. American textile mills produced inexpensive and vast quantities of fabrics, but there was also growing interest in reviving the lost arts and crafts of the Colonial and pioneer eras. Influence from the European Arts and Crafts movement and the Bauhaus design philosophy was growing in modern America. These factors created new opportunities for a revival of hand weaving.

Sweden, by contrast, had retained its strong craft tradition …

Textiles And The Body: The Geometry Of Clothing, Madelyn Shaw

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Physics and mathematics are not usually perceived as being closely connected with textile and clothing design or construction, either by scientists or by artists. Those who make clothing from cloth, however, must always take into account two geometries: the plane geometry of the cloth and the solid geometry of the body. In order to clothe the body we begin with cloth. Woven, knitted, knotted, or otherwise constructed, the inherent structure of cloth reflects mathematical principles. Interlaced threads create square or triangular grids, techniques such as knitting or crocheting can make grids of any shape, from triangular to polyhedral.

Those who …

Changing Face Of Ottoman Imperial Image: Carpets Of Dolmabahce Palace, Turkiye, Elvan Anmac, Filiz Adigüzel Toprak

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

As a result of Westernization act within the State, flourishing from the end of 18th century, essential alteration took place in the social and cultural life in the Ottoman Empire. Western influence asserted itself intensively as soon as Sultan Abdulmecid (1839-61) was enthroned; it was Western style which was immediately imitated in State Governance as well as in every aspect of life, in architecture, architectural decoration, in furnishings, in clothing and home textiles such as upholstery fabrics and carpets used in Sultan Palaces. One of the most striking references of this alteration is the Dolmabahce Palace which was built in …

Designing For Future Textiles – Challenges Of Hybrid Practices, Zane Berzina

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The potential of the future for both science and design lies in a multidisciplinary approach. Disciplines are merging, boundaries are melting and “many […] technologies are not significant when looked at in isolation, but become of critical importance when coupled with other technologies.”

Introduction

This paper offers a condensed case study of a cross-disciplinary practice led Ph.D. research “Skin Stories :: Charting and Mapping the Skin” which dealt with issues across the fields of design, art, textiles technology, electronics, biology, material science and psychology in an attempt to bridge the gap between aesthetics and technology. The artistic investigation examines skin …

Sustainability Of Handwoven Carpets In Turkey: The Importance Of Technical Distinctions Between Regional Carpet Styles, Feryal Söylemezoğlu, Sema Taği

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

In Turkey, hand-made carpet-weaving is a widespread handicraft which many people are effectively busy with. It is also an important area in which unemployed labour can be put to use.

Carpet-making is a traditional craft that has been practised in Turkey since ancient times, and is still found in almost all regions today. Actually, in rural areas, many families still derive significant income from carpet-making.

The reasons why hand-woven carpet-making is crucial for Turkey can be listed as follows:

• Because of the socio economic conditions that currently exist in Turkey the rate of unemployment needs to be reduced, particularly …

Messages From The Past: An Unbroken Inca Weaving Tradition In Northern Peru, Lynn A. Meisch

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The only documented unbroken Inca weaving tradition thrives today in the Huamachuco region of northern Peru (La Libertad Department), where females in several Andean communities weave belts chronicled in A.D. 1590 by a Mercedarian Friar Martín de Murúa. Murúa was entrusted with collecting tribute from and Christianizing the indigenous population of Yanaca in the Province of Aymarays (in modern Apurimac Department in central Peru). His contemporary Guaman Poma accused Murúa of exploitation of the Indians and drew him beating an elderly male weaver (Guaman Poma 1980 [1615]: fig. 647). In his manuscript titled, “History of the Origin and Genealogy of …

Elemental Pathways In Fiber Structures: Approaching Andean Symmetry Patterns Through An Ancient Technology, Mary Frame

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Repetitive pattern is laden with meaning in many cultures. In Andean cultures, where no alphabetic writing system was developed during prehispanic times, patterns and graphic codes carried a large cultural load. It is crucial to have appropriate tools to investigate the integrated properties (symmetry, color, number, direction, etc.) in the graphic codes of the ancient Andes. In this paper, I will propose some modifications to the prevailing approach to symmetry classification that better fits the patterns in Andean textiles.

Approaches to Symmetry Patterns, Modern and Ancient

An approach to classifying symmetry patterns that is called “plane pattern analysis” has been …

Nasca Needlework And Paracas Procession, Lois Martin

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Among the treasures in the Brooklyn Museum is an ancient cloth from the South Coast of Peru: 38.121, sometimes known as “The Paracas Textile,” and now more often as “The Brooklyn Museum Textile” (BMT) (fig. 1.). First acquired by a Peruvian collector around 1912, the cloth shuttled between New York and Paris in the 1920’s and 30’s, inspiring great interest and numerous studies. One of these, Raoul d’Harcourt’s Textiles of Ancient Peru and their Techniques (1934), has been in reprint since 1962, and continues to intrigue fresh audiences.

The BMT was one of several spectacular fabrics that spurred archeological exploration …

The Narrative Scheme Of A Bengal Colcha Dating From The Early 17th Century Commissioned By The Portuguese, Barbara Karl

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In this article I analyse the iconographic programme of a large size embroidered textile dating from the early 17th century from the Hugli region in Bengal. The textile is part of subgroup (c) of the Solomon group. India has an extremely rich textile tradition. Every region has its peculiarities and techniques. Quilts were made all over the Indian subcontinent throughout the ages. Worn out clothes were not thrown away but were instead reused: Several layers of cloth were laid upon each other and were sewn together to be used in Indian homes. Most of them were very simple but some …

Investigation Of A Colonial Latin American Textile, Elena Phipps, Lucy Commoner

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Museum collections often contain works of art of uncertain provenance. Additionally, hybrid works attributed to Colonial cultures reflect the composite nature of a cross-cultural society integrating native and foreign traditions. An interdisciplinary technical study often is needed to identify such an object, including where it was made, when and by whom. The following paper presents the results to date, of a collaborative investigation from art historical, scientific, and conservation perspectives, of a textile belonging to the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum. (fig. 1).

Catalogued as Colonial Peruvian, the textile was considered for inclusion in the Metropolitan Museum’s Colonial Andes: Tapestries …

Abstracts

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textile Society of America

10th Biennial Symposium 2006

October 11–14, 2006

Harbourfront Centre

Toronto, Ontario

A-Z

Author Biographies

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textile Society of America

10th Biennial Symposium 2006

October 11–14, 2006

Harbourfront Centre

Toronto, Ontario

A-Z pp. 1-26

Survey Of Community Knowledge, Attitudes, And Practices During A Malaria Epidemic In Central Java, Indonesia, Parsa Sanjana, Mazie J. Barcus, Michael J. Bangs, Sahat Ompusunggu, Iqbal Elyazar, Harijani Marwoto, Sekar Tuti, Mohammed Sururi, Soesanto Tjokrosonto, J. Kevin Baird

United States Public Health Resources

We surveyed adults in a randomly selected sample of 1,000 households in 50 villages in nine malarial sub-districts in Purworejo, central Java, Indonesia from May to July 2001. The survey assessed malaria knowledge, attitudes, and practices in communities experiencing epidemic malaria to begin exploring broad strategies for controlling the disease in the region. A pre-tested survey instrument consisting of 93 questions addressed demographic characteristics, socioeconomic factors, knowledge and perceptions of malaria, burden and severity of disease, treatment-seeking behavior, malaria prevention practices, and perceptions of government malaria control efforts. The survey was taken by in-person interview of all subjects. Most (97%) …

Deficiency Of Tnf Receptors Suppresses Microglial Activation And Alters The Susceptibility Of Brain Regions To Mptp-Induced Neurotoxicity: Role Of Tnf-Α, Krishnan Sriram, Joanna M. Matheson, Stanley A. Benkovic, Diane B. Miller, Michael I. Luster, James P. O'Callaghan

United States Public Health Resources

Enhanced expression of tumor necrosis

factor (TNF) -α, is associated with the neuropathological

effects underlying disease-, trauma- and chemically

induced neurodegeneration. Previously, we have shown

that deficiency of TNF receptors protects against

MPTP-induced striatal dopaminergic neurotoxicity,

findings suggestive of a role for TNF-α in neurodegeneration.

Here, we demonstrate that deficiency of TNF

receptors suppresses microglial activation and alters

the susceptibility of brain regions to MPTP. MPTPinduced

expression of microglia-derived factors,

TNF-α, MCP-1, and IL-1α, preceded the degeneration

of striatal dopaminergic nerve terminals and astrogliosis,

as assessed by loss of striatal dopamine and TH, …

Implication Of A Retrovirus-Like Glycoprotein Peptide In The Immunopathogenesis Of Ebola And Marburg Viruses, Kavitha Yaddanapudi, Gustavo F. Palacios, Jonathan S. Towner, Ivy Chen, Carlos A. Sariol, Stuart T. Nichol, W. Ian Lipkin

United States Public Health Resources

Ebola and Marburg viruses can cause hemorrhagic fever (HF) outbreaks with high mortality in primates. Whereas Marburg (MARV), Ebola Zaire (ZEBOV), and Ebola Sudan (SEBOV) viruses are pathogenic in humans, apes, and monkeys, Ebola Reston (REBOV) is pathogenic only in monkeys (1–3). Early immunosuppression may contribute to pathogenesis by facilitating viral replication (4–6). Lymphocyte depletion, intravascular apoptosis, and cytokine dysregulation are prominent in fatal cases (7). Here we functionally characterize a 17 amino acid domain in filoviral glycoproteins that resembles an immunosuppressive motif in retroviral envelope proteins (8, 9). Activated human or rhesus peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMC) were exposed …

Norovirus Classification And Proposed Strain Nomenclature, Du-Ping Zheng, Tamie Ando, Rebecca L. Fankhauser, R. Suzanne Beard, Roger I. Glass, Stephan S. Monroe

United States Public Health Resources

Without a virus culture system, genetic analysis becomes the principal method to classify norovirus (NoV) strains. Currently, classification of NoV strains beneath the species level has been based on sequences from different regions of the viral genome. As a result, the phylogenetic insights of some virus were not appropriately interpreted, and no consensus has been reached to establish a uniform classification scheme. To provide a consistent and reliable scientific basis for classifying NoVs, we analyzed the amino acid sequences for the major capsid protein of 164 NoV strains by first using an alignment based on the predicted 3D structures. A …

Agroterrorism—Why We’Re Not Ready: A Look At The Role Of Law Enforcement, Alberto R. Gonzales, Regina B. Schofield, Glenn R. Schmitt

United States Public Health Resources

Terrorists seeking to strike a blow at the U.S. economy need look no further than the Nation’s heartland for a “soft” target. An agroterrorist attack could dramatically impact many aspects of American life, including local law enforcement, which— especially in rural areas—is financially and strategically unprepared to respond.
Agricultural experts say that today they are most concerned about the intentional introduction of foot-and-mouth disease (FMD) into the food supply. Twenty times more infectious than smallpox, FMD causes painful blisters on the tongues, hooves, and teats of cloven-hoofed animals (like cows, pigs, goats, and deer), rendering them unable to walk, be …

Presence And Regulation Of Messenger Ribonucleic Acids Encoding Components Of The Class Ii Major Histocompatibility Complex-Associated Antigen Processing Pathway In The Bovine Corpus Luteum, Matthew J. Cannon, John S. Davis, Joy L. Pate

United States Public Health Resources

Luteal cells express class II major histocompatibility complex (MHC) molecules and can stimulate T lymphocyte proliferation in vitro. However, it is unknown whether luteal cells express the intracellular components necessary to process the peptides presented by class II MHC molecules. The objective of the present study was to examine the expression and regulation of three major class II-associated antigen processing components – class II MHC-associated invariant chain (Ii), DMa and DMb – in luteal tissue. Corpora lutea were collected early in the estrous cycle, during midcycle and late in the estrous cycle, and at various times following administration of a …

Rit Dividends Winter 2006

RIT Digital Archives

No abstract provided.

To Duel Or Not To Duel: The Influence Of Anti-Dueling Tracts In Late Eighteenth-Century England, Marshall Digmon

Vulcan Historical Review

pp. 33-41

George Orwell And Winston Smith: The Status Inconsistency And Social Consciousness Of Two Down And Out Writers, Kathy Hakim

Vulcan Historical Review

pp. 62-73

Vol. 81, No. 3 | Winter 2006, Bridgewater College

Bridgewater Magazine

Bridgewater's theater minor undergoes some major changes

Swept Under The Carpet: Subtle Tales From The Back Room, Michele Hardy

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

According to Ruth Phillips, we are poised to enter the second museum age. For many years now museums has been the object of serious criticism. First Nations have critiqued museums’ authority to represent and possess culturally significant objects. There has also been a shift away from object-based research—undermining the very foundation of museums. They have been forced to re-evaluate who they are, whom they are for, and what to do with all that stuff in the storerooms. Since the mid-1980’s there has been growing responsiveness to indigenous peoples concerns, efforts to share authority, and a re-envisioning of museums as places …

Text & Textiles: New Writings From Spam Tales, Janis Jefferies

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Collaborations

In many essays and texts on the subject of art and science, the questions of collaboration and the points of discontinuity in disciplinary practice habitually surface. For example, C.P. Snow’s commentary on the ‘two cultures’ (as popularized in the Rede lectures in Cambridge in 1959) is frequently cited as a challenge to establishing a meeting place for artists and scientists where stereotypical expectations might be broken down. More weight, however, can be credited to Einstein’s acts of expansive thought, and the potential of what is yet to may come into existence through the open-ended processes of investigation, experimentation, and …

Nature Fancywork: Nineteenth Century Women Tell Stories About The Natural World, Andrea Kolasinski Marcinkus

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Idealized nature entered the homes of middle and upper class Americans in the mid nineteenth century in opposition to the harsh realities of growing industrialization, and as a celebration of humanity’s control over nature as both a recreation and commodity. This “man made nature” is evident in other ways during the same period: domestic architecture, with its bay windows extending into a cultured garden and yard; the growing popularity of pet keeping; and the science-mania that caused men and women alike to crowd into theaters to hear natural scientists espouse theories of glaciation or coral reef growth. This large-scale cultural …

An Ethnographic Interpretation Of The Smoke Rising And Smoke Descending Ceremonial Attire Of The Sa'dan Malimbong Toraja, Maria Christou

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The modern Toraja ceremonial attire worn for the smoke rising and the smoke descending rituals are woven in the Sa'dan Malimbong villages on back strap looms with a continuous warp using both continuous and discontinuous two-faced supplementary weft decorative elements (Christou, 1997; 2005). The smoke rising, or Rambu-Tuka', and smoke descending, or Rambu- Solo', ceremonies are a body of rituals associated with the traditional Toraja religion, or Aluk Todolo; therefore, they form the belief structure of pre-Islamic and Christian Tana Toraja (Mattulada, 1978, p. 135). The style and design elements associated with the traditional religion persist despite changes in materials …

Symbolic Embellishment Of Ritual Textiles Used In Native American Burial Mounds, Harriet J. Taylor, Stephen A. Taylor

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Honouring the dead is a universal principle that has been evidenced since the dawn of time. Although burial of the dead has not been experienced universally, ritual burial practices have been widespread throughout millennia and it is through examination of burial sites that insight is gained into the manner in which tribute was paid to the dead. When humans became self-aware, understanding that there was a transition between life and the known world, to death and the unknown, those cultures that practiced burial rituals ensured that the dead were well equipped for what may lay ahead.

This paper discusses textile …

Bt 750 Christian Theology And The Bible, Anthony Thiselton

Syllabi

Required Textbooks: 1. Daniel Migliore, Faith Seeking Understanding: An Introduction to Christian Theology (Grand Rapids & Cambridge: Eerdmans, 1991, paperback) ISBN 0-8028-0601-5, 312 pages. 2. Wolfhart Pannenberg, Systematic Theology (volume 2, Grand Rapids: Eerdmans, and Edinburgh: T&T Clark, 1994) pp. 136-464 (=329 pages). 3. Colin Gunton (Editor) The Cambridge Companion to Christian Doctrine (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1997), paperback, 307 pages 1 4. One of these three: Either: Stanley J. Grenz, The Social God and the Relational Self: A Trinitarian Theology of the Imago Dei (Louisville & London: Westminster John Knox, 2001), hardback, 344 pages; Or: Jürgen Moltmann, The Spirit …

Wooster Magazine: Winter 2006, Lisa Watts

Wooster Magazine: 2001-2010

This edition of the Wooster Magazine was published in the winter of 2006. This edition highlights ten alumni and their "Trips of a Lifetime" including the Great Wall of China, Australia, the Ho Chi Minh Train, and Alaska. Professor Hayden Schilling has been awarded the Outstanding Baccalaureate College Professor of the Year. Pages thirty-three to thirty-four discuss the impact of the College of Wooster and Miles College exchange program that was offered from the sixties to seventies. The Class Notes section is from page thirty-five to seventy-one.