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Textile Society Of America Newsletter 1:1 — January 1989, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
In Memoriam, Peggy Stolz Gilfoy (1936–1988)
What's New [by state and province]
Obituary [Florence Lewis May]
CIETA [invitation to Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Anciens 13th General Assembly]
Positions Announcements
1988 Symposium Papers
TSA Board Meeting
Membership in the Textile Society of America
Textile Society of America 1990 Conference
About the Newsletter
Membership and Mailing Lists
TSA Textiles in Trade: A Symposium, September 14–16, 1990, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC [announcement of second biennial symposium]

Ethnic Women Homesteading On The Plains Of North Dakota, H. Elaine Lindgren

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

Women as well as men took advantage of government land policies that encouraged settlement on the Great Plains. Researchers have replaced earlier stereotypes that emphasized the reluctance of women to participate in the settlement process by more dynamic and realistic conceptualizations that portray women as courageous, enthusiastic, and adventuresome. ¹

Review Of Among The Sioux Of Dakota: Eighteen Months' Experience As An Indian Agent, 1869-70, Elizabeth S. Grobsmith

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

This brief narrative was written by DeWitt Clinton Poole, Indian agent at the Whetstone Agency in Dakota Territory from 1869 to 1870. In a rather extensive introduction, Raymond DeMallie describes the establishment of the Agency and the difficulties Poole encountered there and admonishes the reader about Poole's paternalistic and racist view of Indian life. DeMallie reports: "Among the Sioux of Dakota is not a memorable book for its insight into American Indian culture . . . Poole failed to achieve any understanding of Sioux religion, admitting that he could see in it only 'selfishness and vindictiveness'" (lii). But DeMallie rightfully …

Review Of Renewing The World: Plains Indian Religion And Morality., J. Baird Callicott

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

Although at midcentury the distinguished anthropologist A. Irving Hallowell suggested a new field, "ethnometaphysics, " at the interface of philosophy and anthropology, there was no stampede to explore it. Philosophers for the most part remain Western cultural narcissists and chauvinists, while anthropologists labor to become scientifically "respectable."

The Art Museum As Personal Statement: The Southwest Experience, Keith L. Bryant Jr

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

The museum boom in this country since World War II has been easy to observe and document. Almost as many museums were constructed in the 1960s as in the previous two decades, and the erection or expansion of cultural palaces has continued into the 1980s. The rising importance of museums has been signaled not only by new buildings and massive additions but also by attendance figures. The leading public attraction in the United States is neither professional football nor baseball; it is the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. This overwhelming public response is not limited to the …

Review Of The Way To Independence: Memories Of A Hidatsa Indian Family, 1840-1920 And A Coloring Book Of Hidatsa Indian Stories: Based On The Life And Drawings Of Edward Goodbird, Joseph C. Porter

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

The Way to Independence exhibition and catalog appeared in 1987 to mark the centennial of the passage of the Dawes Indian Severalty Act of 1887, legislation intended to "civilize" American Indians by abolishing tribes as legal entities and allotting reservation lands to individuals. With the disappearance of the tribal land base, proponents of the Dawes Act assumed that Indians would be compelled to "assimilate" into the mainstream of American life.

The Challenge To Critical Thinking Posed By Gender-Related And Learning Styles Research, M. Neil Browne, Nancy K. Kubasek, Julie A. Harris

To Improve the Academy: A Journal of Educational Development

Gender-Related Research and Critical Thinking

Learning Styles Research and Critical Thinking

Evaluating the Challenge to Critical Thinking

Gender-Related Research

Learning Styles Research

References

African Marriage Systems: Perspectives From Evolutionary Ecology, Patricia Draper

Department of Anthropology: Faculty Publications

There are many characteristics of contemporary African societies that puzzle demographers and others concerned with economic and social modernization. One of the most prominent is that the birth rate remains in both urban and rural areas of sub-Saharan Africa in spite of the presence of several factors that supposedly promote lowering of fertility (McNicoll 1980). Some of these factors are increased survivorship of children into adulthood, increased availability of education and levels of educational attainment (for both sexes), increased urbanization, and increased monetarization of the economy via migratory wage labor and cash cropping. Each of these is normally thought to …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 10 (1989), Laurel Horton, Eleanor Hamilton Sienkiewicz, Barbara Brackman, Suellen Meyer, Elizabeth Weyrauch Shea, Patricia Cox Crews, Debra Ballard, Virginia Gunn, Jane Przybysz, Nancilu Burdick, Gail Andrews Treschel, Bets Ramsey

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Laurel Horton

Research Papers

The Marketing of Mary Evans by Eleanor Hamilton Sienkiewicz

Signature Quilts: Nineteenth~Century Trends by Barbara Brackman

Early Influences of the Sewing Machine and Visible Machine Stitching on Nineteenth~Century Quilts by Suellen Meyer

Nebraska Quiltmakers: 1870-1940 by Elizabeth Weyrauch Shea and Patricia Cox Crews

The Ladies Aid of Hope Lutheran Church by Debra Ballard

Quilts for Milady's Boudoir by Virginia Gunn

The Body En(w)raptured: Contemporary Quilted Garments by Jane Przybysz

The Julia Bayer Reinstein Collection by Nancilu Burdick

Mourning Quilts in America by Gail Andrews Trechsel

Special Presentation

A Tribute to Mariska Karasz (1898-1960) by …

Roscoe Pound And American Sociology: A Study In Archival Frame Analysis, Sociobiography And Sociological Jurisprudence, Michael R. Hill

Department of Sociology: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

Roscoe Pound (1870-1964) was a noted botanist, jurist, and sociologist who founded the American school of sociological jurisprudence. Pound's sociological ideas originated at the University of Nebraska. Pound developed numerous ties to other sociologists, joined the American Sociological Society, and published in the American Journal of Sociology. Pound's modern erasure from sociological chronicles is attributed in part to hegemonic processes. The collection of archival data for this study in the history of sociology is generalized (by extending Erving Goffman's metatheory of meaning) as "archival frame analysis." Pound's intellectual milieu is analyzed using Mary Jo Deegan's theory of "core codes" …

The Transition From Infancy To Early Childhood: A Difficult Transition, And A Difficult Theory, Carolyn P. Edwards

Department of Psychology: Faculty Publications

The transition from infancy to early childhood was observed in households in rural Zinacanteco households in the Highlands of Chiapas, Mexico, in 1968-1969, and found to be a fairly lengthy period of upset, disturbance, listlessness, and apathy for the children, leading eventually to their accepting a new position in the family. The transition involved three abrupt and harsh changes: (1) abrupt weaning from the mother’s breast; (2) simultaneous change in sleeping arrangements from lying next to the mother to sleeping with siblings; and (3) more gradual transfer of the child’s primary care from the mother to older siblings or courtyard …

Labor Force Participation Of Rural Farm, Rural Nonfarm, And Urban Women: A Panel Update, Jane C. Ollenburger, Sheryl J. Grana, Helen A. Moore

Department of Sociology: Faculty Publications

In this paper, we analyze the paid labor force participation rates and continuity patterns of rural farm, rural nonfarm, and urban women. Specifically, we trace the labor force participation of a panel of approximately 800 women in Nebraska from 1977 to 1985. This paper has a twofold purpose. First, we examine changes in the work status of the cohort of Nebraska women during the farm crisis years. Second, we identify individual factors influencing labor force participation and continuity, contrasting all three residential groups of women.

A loglinear model isolates differences in participation rates for rural and urban women as well …

Mari Sandoz’ Sociological Imagination: Capital City As An Ideal Type, Michael R. Hill

Department of Sociology: Faculty Publications

This paper examines Mari Sandoz' (1939) novel Capital City from the perspective of sociology. ‘I outline Sandoz' data collection methods and consider her use of ideal-type analysis and sociological imagination. From the perspective of literary critics it may be, as Helen Stauffer (1982: 131) judged, that Capital City "is not a successful novel." It is not my purpose, however, to contest the merit of Sandoz' work on literary grounds. Rather, I invoke the viewpoint of the sociologist and note the criteria on which I conclude that Capital City is a complex and well-executed sociological study.

Empiricism And Reason In Harriet Martineau’S Sociology, Michael R. Hill

Department of Sociology: Faculty Publications

The architecture and evolution of Harriet Martineau's sociological epistemology epitomize an essential tension between abstract theory and concrete empiricism. The body of Martineau's intellectual work demonstrates a major conceptual shift, from early religious convictions to subsequent rejection of all metaphysical systems. How to Observe Morals and Manners lies midway in this journey. The epistemological and biographical route to Martineau's adamant repudiation of metaphysics was long, personally tumultuous, and grounded fundamentally in empirical studies of social conditions. I focus here on the give-and-take between metaphysics, empiricism, and rationality in Harriet Martineau's sociological work. Part one of this essay highlights the major …

Transactions Of The Nebraska Academy Of Sciences Volume Xvii (1989): Table Of Contents

Transactions of the Nebraska Academy of Sciences and Affiliated Societies

Editorial Contents

Nebraska Academy of Sciences, Officers, Policy Committee .......... ii

Editorial Board .......... v

Membership Objectives and Friends of the Academy .......... vi

Biological Sciences

The biology and ecology of the tiger beetles (Coleoptera: Cicindelidae) of Nebraska (Mark R. Carter) .......... 1-18

Effects of substrate on density of aquatic insects in a southeast Nebraska stream (Patrick O. Darrow and Kenneth P. Pruess) .......... 19-22

Distribution of Amoebidium and Smittium species (Trichomycetes) in mosquito larvae on the Platte River floodplain of central Nebraska (Roger D. Grigg and Marvin C. Williams) .......... 23-28

Diversity of coprophagous Scarabaeidae (Coleoptera) in grazed versus …

A Mimbres Burial With Associated Colon Remains From The Nan Ranch Ruin, New Mexico, Harry J. Shafer, Marrianne Marek, Karl J. Reinhard

Karl Reinhard Publications

The skeletal remains of an adult male associated with desiccated tissue and a coprolite were recovered from an apen-air midden deposit at the NAN Ranch Ruin (LA15049)) a large Mimbres site in Grant County) New Mexico. The find dates to about A.C. 1000-1100. Identifiable macroscopic elements in the caprolite consist offi nely fragmented corn and tiny seed fragments of an unknown plant. High amounts of willow (Salix) and mustard (Brassicaceae) pollen may indicate the ingestion of medicinal plants to combat a deteriorating health condition. The individual was approximately 35 -40 years old at the time of death and suffered from …

Bioarcheological Synthesis For "From The Gulf To The Rio Grande: Human Adaptation In Central, South, And Lower Pecos Texas", Karl Reinhard, Ben W. Olive, D. Gentry Steele

Karl Reinhard Publications

One of the main problems encountered in the review of the bioarcheology of Region 3 has been the limited number of sites where human skeletal material has been adequately recovered and analyzed. In the preceding chapter it was documented that less than 30% of the burials recovered from recorded sites have been reported in published literature. It was further estimated that of the 323 sites with burials, no more than 80 sites have published detailed bioarcheological reports on the burials recovered. Only 50 of these 80 reports provide individual descriptions of each burial which facilitate subsequent analyses and evaluation.

Four …

Roscoe Pound’S Sociological Library: The Foundations Of American Sociological Jurisprudence, Michael R. Hill

Department of Sociology: Faculty Publications

Roscoe Pound was an interdisciplinarian of the first order. His active reformation of legal thought and administrative practice in the United States was grounded in careful study of European and American legal and social theorists. He read widely in the discipline of sociology, as the following bibliography of his personal sociological book collection attests. Pound's study of sociology reached more widely and deeply than cursory examination of his published work reveals.

This bibliographic essay introduces modern scholars to the theoretical and intellectual contributions of the discipline of sociology to the foundations of twentieth-century juristic thought in the United States as …

The Relations Of Pubertal Status To Intrapersonal Changes In Young Adolescents, Lorah D. Dorn, Lisa J. Crockett, Anne C. Petersen

Department of Psychology: Faculty Publications

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relations between pubertal development and adolescents’ perceptions of their physical and emotional states. Two research questions were posed: (a) What are the effects of pubertal status upon satisfaction with appearance and mood states of the adolescent; and, (b) What are the patterns of those pubertal effects in sixth, seventh, and eighth grades? A nonclinical group of adolescents (N = 253) was selected from two cohorts and was followed from sixth through eighth grade. Multiple measures were used to assess satisfaction with appearance and mood states. Significant multivariate findings were limited to …

Hopewell Archeology: Volume , Number 1, July 1998, Mark J. Lynott

United States National Park Service: Publications

1. Weymouth Awarded Fryxell Medal by SAA

Dr. John Weymouth, Professor Emeritus of Physics, University of Nebraska, Lincoln, was recognized by the Society for American Archeology (SAA) at its 63rd Annual Meeting in Seattle on March 27, 1998. Weymouth was presented the Fryxell Award for Interdisciplinary Research, which was initiated in 1977 to recognize excellence by a distinguished scientist whose research has contributed significantly to American archeology.

Each year the award is based on performance in one of five disciplines: earth sciences, physical sciences, general interdisciplinary studies, zoological sciences, and botanical sciences. The award, which consists of a citation and …

Values, Beliefs, And Attitudes In A Sociotechnical Setting, F. Gregory Hayden

Department of Economics: Faculty Publications

Yngve Ramstad has recently inquired about how to define the components of the social fabric matrix and digraph system [Ramstad 1986; Hayden 1982a, 1982b]. To answer that question with regard to three of the matrix's components is the purpose of this article. The article will present, expand, and refine the author's introductory work on values, beliefs, and attitudes for the social fabric matrix [Hayden 1977, 19851. There are numerous meanings the word "values" evokes among institutionalist readers; for examples: social value, instrumental valuing, technological values, and valuation. Those concepts are concerned with "what ought to be," while the definition of …

A Sociobiological Perspective On The Development Of Human Reproductive Strategies, Patricia Draper, Henry Harpending

Department of Anthropology: Faculty Publications

Humans show a great deal of variability in their reproductive behavior, including types of sexual activity, types of ties between males and females, and ways of arranging for the rearing of offspring. We will consider three principal topics: (1) Father absence versus father presence, contrasting children who are reared in a family system in which there is a closely involved and economically contributing father in contrast to a family system in which women rear their children in cooperation with other women (usually kin) and without consistent help from a man who is father to children. (2) Peer rearing versus parent …

Frugivorous And Animalivorous Bats (Microchiroptera): Dental And Cranial Adaptations, Patricia W. Freeman

University of Nebraska State Museum: Mammalogy Papers

The most derived fruit-eating bats have small canines, wide palates and molars with a distinctive labial rim. Paracone and metacone have moved from a dilambdodont position in the middle of the tooth to the labial side of the tooth where they form the labial cutting edge. Along with the well-developed and close fitting labial cutting edges of the premolars and canines, this cutting edge skirts nearly the entire perimeter of the palate. The labial rim of the lower teeth fit inside the labial rim of the upper teeth like two cookie cutters nesting one inside the other. Frugivores have a …

Pod 13th Annual Conference Program

Professional and Organizational Development Network in Higher Education: Conference Materials

Welcome, by the Colorado Conference Team

Materials Display

Evaluation

Tracks for Concurrent Sessions

Program

Core Committee

Conference Team

Special Thanks

Wringing It Dry: The Challenge Of Prehistoric Textiles, Elizabeth Barber

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Some time ago I embarked on a "short little project" to find out what I could about Bronze Age Aegean textiles, which I had come to suspect were more elaborate and more important than anyone was giving them credit for. I knew the project could not take very long, and would not take more than maybe ten pages to write up, because virtually nothing in the way of textiles has survived from Greece—even in the Classical period, let alone the prehistoric era. But my father, who was a physicist, had instilled into me a question that changed everything: namely, "(If …

Index To Authors- 1988

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INDEX TO AUTHORS

A-Z pp.165-69 (6 pages)

Anderson, Clarita

Baizerman, Suzanne

Barber, Elizabeth

Beardsley, Grace

Cooper, Arlene

Davis, Virginia

El-Homossani, M. M

Elliott, Lillian

Felsher, Lynn

Femenias, Blenda

Fisher, Abby Sue

Frame, Mary

...

Washbum, Dorothy K

Westfall, Carol D.

Wilson, Laurel Elizabeth

Techniques And Production Complexity Of Mississippian Period Textiles From Spiro, Oklahoma, Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The archaeological site of Spiro, which is located in eastern Oklahoma, was a major civic-ceremonial center of the Mississippian cultural period from approximately A.D. 900 to 1400. These prehistoric peoples developed an extensive trade network, a highly developed religious center, and a political system which controlled the region. An exceptionally rich assemblage of artifacts has been recovered from the mounds at Spiro, and Craig Mound has produced the most extensive collection of preserved prehistoric textiles in the southeastern United States (Brown 1976, King & Gardner 1981, Kuttruff 1988).

METHODS:

A purposeful sample of 71 Spiro textile specimens from burial context …

The Kings As Gods: Textiles In The Thai State, H. Leedom Lefferts Jr,

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

If one observes the principles of Theravada Buddhist art, Thai textiles appear to pose a paradox. On the one hand, Buddhist art is defined as progressing hierarchically from representational to aniconic motifs, replicating movement from worlds of lesser merit to worlds of greater merit. On the other hand, we have the gloriously figurative and expensive garments worn by Thai royalty and adorning gods as depicted in temple murals. How is this seeming discrepancy to be explained?

A recent translation of a section of a larger work by the noted French scholar on Southeast Asia and Buddhism, Paul Mus, titled "The …

Analysis Of Pattern Structure By Geometric Symmetries, Dorothy K. Washburn

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

While a large literature exists on the technologies different peoples use to manufacture woven fabrics (cf. Emery 1966), little attention has been given to developing equally systematic ways to study the patterns produced. This paper outlines one approach to pattern analysis which utilizes mathematical symmetries to describe the way design parts are arranged in a pattern. The advantages of this method are discussed and examples of a number of problems that such an analysis of pattern structure can address are described.

SYMMETRY ANALYSIS:

Symmetry analysis is a mathematically based description of the structure of a pattern. It specifies the …

Piecing In Twill Tapestry Shawls Of Persia And Kashmir, Grace C. Beardsley

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The 19th century witnessed the development of considerable piecework in the manufacture of twill tapestry shawls in both Kashmir and Persia. Modes of construction parallel so closely as to be indistinguishable. This is not surprising considering the centuries-long lively cultural intercourse between the two areas and especially their exchange of designs, weavers and textile technology. In both regions piecework was a response to pressure for faster production, the culmination of a gradual shift from atelier weaving toward a mass market.

Among construction modes, the weaving and subsequent assembly of many rectilinear shapes is to be found especially among long shawls. …