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The Evolution And Changes Of Moche Textile Style: What Does Style Tell Us About Northern Textile Production?, María Jesús Jiménez Díaz

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although Moche textiles form part of the legacy of one of the best known cultures of pre-Hispanic Peru, today they remain relatively unknown. Moche culture evolved in the northern valleys of the Peruvian coast (Fig. 1) during the first 800 years after Christ (Fig. 2). They were contemporary with other cultures such us Nazca or Lima and their textiles exhibited special features that are reflected in their textile production. Previous studies of Moche textiles have been carried out by authors such as Lila O'Neale (1946, 1947), O'Neale y Kroeber (1930), William Conklin (1978) or Heiko Pruemers (1995). However, in spite …

Preface, Marjorie Senechal, Pamela Parmal

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Silk Roads, Other Roads, the Eighth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, was held September 26-28, 2002 at Smith College in Northampton, Massachusetts. Anthropologists, archeologists, artists, art historians, conservators, curators, designers, historians, and other professionals contributed to the rich and varied program featuring silk and other textiles around the world and through time. Topics included archaeology along the silk road; textile artisans and sustainable development; textiles along the spice routes; acculturation; silk in medieval Europe; silk production in mainland Southeast Asia; the American silk industry and, more generally, its textile industry; Andean textiles; silk traditions in Japan; new …

Re-Inventing Cultural Heritage: Palestinian Traditional Costume And Embroidery Since 1948, Jeni Allenby

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Prior to 1948, when the State of Israel was declared, Arab society in Palestine consisted of three main groups - the townspeople, a small percentage of nomadic or semi-nomadic bedouin tribes, and the villagers or "people of the land" who made up three quarters of the population. Over eight hundred villages were scattered from the coastal plains to the Jordan River. While costume in the urban regions historically reflected the current occupiers of the country (for example, Turkish styles during the Ottoman period, and European fashions under the British Mandate) Palestine's many villages were economically and socially independent, and difficulties …

Contemporary Embroideries Of Rabar1s Of Kutch: Economic And Cultural Viability, Judy Frater

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Monghiben Rabari is attending an exhibition and sale in Mumbai. Her traditional embroidery has taken her from Vandh, her village of mud huts and camels on the seacoast of Kutch to India's most cosmopolitan urban metropolis. She is thrilled by the glittering bustle, and by the customers' enthusiastic response. She deals directly with them, as a professional artisan. And not only do the customers buy; one woman is so impressed that she wants to learn embroidery. She engages Monghi as a teacher during the afternoon lulls of the exhibition.

Surely, we have succeeded in the transition from tradition to profession. …

The Hand Of The Maker: The Importance Of Understanding Textiles From The "Inside Out", Beverly Gordon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This is a position paper of sorts, arguing that the experience of making a textile is an important component of understanding it, and we should be encouraging textile researchers to include hands-on experiments as part of their investigation. Some TSA members will take this idea for granted because they have first-hand experience with textile making, and may find it overly obvious. The point is hardly new, and archeologist Elizabeth Barber made a strong case for the value of textile "reconstruction" in her 1994 book, Women's Work: The First 20,000 Years. Nevertheless, this is not a universally shared assumption, and …

Siguas 1: A Newly Identified Early Horizon Culture, Department Of Arequipa, Peru, Joerg Haeberli

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

My interest in the valleys of Arequipa began in 1994. A curious set of textiles labeled Nasca was attributed to the "Sihuas" Valley, Nazca region, Peru, south coast." The iconography of these textiles was not Nasca but belonged to unidentified traditions. They most likely came from the Sihuas Valley in the department of Arequipa. In 1997 and 2000 I went to Arequipa to establish if their provenance indeed was the Sihuas Valley and other valleys in the department of Arequipa. This was confirmed in the field for the valleys of Sihuas and Vitor at four heavily looted cemeteries. In addition, …

Appropriated Threads: The Unpicking And Reweaving Imported Textiles, Jessica Hemmings

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Silk Route has become synonymous with the movement of knowledge that accompanies the trade of objects. Many of the textiles discussed here were not traded along the Silk Route, but all are representative of the associations that are made with this artery of cultural exchange. The examples cited arrive from a range of cultures and geographies: Indonesia and Nigeria, the Southwest United States and New Zealand. From these vastly different regions, using a variety of materials, weavers painstakingly unpicked yams from woven fabrics for use in other weavings.

The term 'raveled yam' refers to threads that have been unpicked …

Clothing Styles From A Provincial Inca Outpost, Grace Katterman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

My recent study of Inca Period clothing has involved textile collections from three south coastal areas of Peru (Figure 1): Pachacamac, a large Inca center and temple complex just south of Lima (Uhle 1903/1991: Ch XXI: 89-96); Rodadero, a storage facility overlooking the Inca center of Tambo Viejo in the Acari Valley (Katterman and Riddell (1992:141-167); and Burial House #2, the western hillside cemetery affiliated with the Inca outpost of Quebrada de La Vaca in the Chala Drainage (Katterman 2003b). From the burial house (Figure 6), Dorothy Menzel and Francis Riddell collected and documented 120 burials plus an additional 140 …

Why Embroidery? An Answer From The Ancient Andes, Anne Paul

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In her meticulous classification of fabric structures, Irene Emery wrote that needlework "is basically one of the simplest crafts, a homely activity that can be practiced by almost anyone on almost any material. But, with fine and carefully chosen materials plus a high degree of skill and imagination in handling them, needlework can be raised almost to the rank of a fine art" (1966:246). I suspect that Emery would not object to my deletion of the word "almost" when discussing the examples of fine art embroidered by certain pre-Conquest Andeans.

Within the ancient Andean world, needlework is not exclusively identified …

Contributors

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Contributing Authors

A-W

Nettie Adams

Monisha Ahmed

Gloria Seaman Allen

Jeni Allenby

Elizabeth Wayland Barber

...

Bobbie Sumberg

Rebecca Trussell

Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Stephen Wagner

Marketplace Handwork Of India: Impacts On Artisan Capabilities, Mary A. Littrell, Marsha A. Dickson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

At the 1998 TSA Symposium in New York City, we presented a paper that documented the work of three textile artisan enterprises. All embraced a fair trade approach to their work. Known as Alternative Trade Organizations (ATOs), these enterprises are deeply committed to a mission of sustainable, people-centered development (Littrell and Dickson 1997). More specifically, this fair trade partnership between textile artisans and retailers involves joint commitment to:

• paying fair wages within a local context,

• providing healthy and safe working conditions,

• sustaining the environment,

• promoting capacity building through business and technical training, and

• honoring cultural …

Threads Of Resistance: Unraveling The Meanings Of!9ih Century Tlingit Beaded Regalia, Megan A. Smetzer

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although not the first to make the connection, Ensign Albert Niblack of the U.S. Navy wrote most succinctly in 1888: "There seems nothing unreasonable in tracing the origin of much of the dance and ceremonial paraphernalia to customs originating in war." Since that time, numerous scholars have suggested and disputed links between Tlingit carved and painted armor and ceremonial regalia. Beaded regalia, on the other hand has been almost entirely neglected in Northwest Coast ethnographic literature due to notions of authenticity and cultural degeneration. In 1945, anthropologist Erna Gunther for example, explained beaded dance collars as a mere disguise for …

Re-Inventing Cultural Heritage: Palestinian Traditional Costume And Embroidery Since 1948, Jeni Allenby

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Prior to 1948, when the State of Israel was declared, Arab society in Palestine consisted of three main groups - the townspeople, a small percentage of nomadic or semi-nomadic bedouin tribes, and the villagers or "people of the land" who made up three quarters of the population. Over eight hundred villages were scattered from the coastal plains to the Jordan River. While costume in the urban regions historically reflected the current occupiers of the country (for example, Turkish styles during the Ottoman period, and European fashions under the British Mandate) Palestine's many villages were economically and socially independent, and difficulties …

Marketplace Handwork Of India: Impacts On Artisan Capabilities, Mary A. Littrell, Marsha A. Dickson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

At the 1998 TSA Symposium in New York City, we presented a paper that documented the work of three textile artisan enterprises. All embraced a fair trade approach to their work. Known as Alternative Trade Organizations (ATOs), these enterprises are deeply committed to a mission of sustainable, people-centered development (Littrell and Dickson 1997). More specifically, this fair trade partnership between textile artisans and retailers involves joint commitment to:

• paying fair wages within a local context,

• providing healthy and safe working conditions,

• sustaining the environment,

• promoting capacity building through business and technical training, and

• honoring cultural …

Contemporary Embroideries Of Rabaris Of Kutch: Economic And Cultural Viability, Judy Frater

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Monghiben Rabari is attending an exhibition and sale in Mumbai. Her traditional embroidery has taken her from Vandh, her village of mud huts and camels on the seacoast of Kutch to India’s most cosmopolitan urban metropolis. She is thrilled by the glittering bustle, and by the customers’ enthusiastic response. She deals directly with them, as a professional artisan. And not only do the customers buy; one woman is so impressed that she wants to learn embroidery. She engages Monghi as a teacher during the afternoon lulls of the exhibition.

Surely, we have succeeded in the transition from tradition to profession. …

The Hand Of The Maker: The Importance Of Understanding Textiles From The “Inside Out”, Beverly Gordon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This is a position paper of sorts, arguing that the experience of making a textile is an important component of understanding it, and we should be encouraging textile researchers to include hands-on experiments as part of their investigation. Some TSA members will take this idea for granted because they have first-hand experience with textile making, and may find it overly obvious. The point is hardly new, and archeologist Elizabeth Barber made a strong case for the value of textile “reconstruction” in her 1994 book, Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years. Nevertheless, this is not a universally shared assumption, and …

Why Embroidery? An Answer From The Ancient Andes, Anne Paul

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In her meticulous classification of fabric structures, Irene Emery wrote that needlework "is basically one of the simplest crafts, a homely activity that can be practiced by almost anyone on almost any material. But, with fine and carefully chosen materials plus a high degree of skill and imagination in handling them, needlework can be raised almost to the rank of a fine art" (1966:246). I suspect that Emery would not object to my deletion of the word "almost" when discussing the examples of fine art embroidered by certain pre-Conquest Andeans.

Within the ancient Andean world, needlework is not exclusively identified …

The Evolution And Changes Of Moche Textile Style: What Does Style Tell Us About Northern Textile Production?, Maria Jesus Jimenez Diaz

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although Moche textiles form part of the legacy of one of the best known cultures of pre-Hispanic Peru, today they remain relatively unknown. Moche culture evolved in the northern valleys of the Peruvian coast (Fig. 1) during the first 800 years after Christ (Fig. 2). They were contemporary with other cultures such us Nazca or Lima and their textiles exhibited special features that are reflected in their textile production. Previous studies of Moche textiles have been carried out by authors such as Lila O'Neale (1946, 1947), O'Neale y Kroeber (1930), William Conklin (1978) or Heiko Pruemers (1995). However, in spite …

Land Use And Ceramic Distributions In Western Rough Cilicia, Turkey, Jennifer Ferrell

Nebraska Anthropologist

The Rough Cilicia Survey Project (RCSP) has been collecting data on the southern Mediterranean coast of Turkey (known as Rough Ci/icia) since 1996. This paper is a preliminary analysis of how the architectural and ceramic data collected by the survey team may be utilized. It is theorized here that the frequency of certain ceramic types may be linked to amount of architecture. However, this paper is not meant to be conclusive, but is rather a starting point for future studies of this data.

Nebraska Anthropologist Volume 17: 2001-2002 Table Of Contents

Nebraska Anthropologist

1 Battlefield Oddities: Explaining Two Minie Balls from Pea Ridge National Military
Park (156) (DonArp, Jr.)

7 Reliability Assessment of Surface Archaeological Survey Results from Western
Rough Cilicia, Turkey (Melissa Kruse)

18 An Exploration of Possible Causes of High Dropout Rates in Native American
Reservation Schools (Mary Cornelius)

24 Analyzing Anthropogenic Landscapes with GIS and Remote Sensing: A Literature Review (Andi O. Kraft)

29 The Nazis' Archeology (Megan Young)

36 Qumran: Archaeology and Theories of Identification (Ann Putz)

47 A Study of Sign Language in Chimpanzees (Kelli Bacon)

57 The Mythological Role of Gender Ideologies: A Cross-Cultural Sample of
Traditional …

Title And Contents- Winter 2002

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

Great Plains Quarterly

Volume 22/ Number 1 / Winter 2002

CONTENTS

THE MAKING OF LITTLE SWEDEN, USA Steven M. Schnell

A SLAVE TO YELLOW PERIL: THE 1886 CHINESE OUSTER ATTEMPT IN WICHITA, KANSAS Julie Courtwright

THE BEGINNING OF THE END: THE INDIAN PEACE COMMISSION OF 1867-1868 Kerry R. Oman

BOOK REVIEWS

Bruce E. Johnson

Shapers of the Great Debate on Native Americans - Land, Spirit, and Power By ROBERT L. BEE

Tom Dunlay Kit Carson and the Indians By ROBERT S. MCPHERSON

Amanda J. Cobb Listening to Our Grandmothers' Stories: The Bloomfield Academy for Chickasaw Females, 1852-1949 By MARY JANE …

Review Of Shapers Of The Great Debate On Native Americans- Land, Spirit, And Power: A Biographical Dictionary By Bruce E. Johansen, Robert L. Bee

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

This useful compilation of biographical sketches spans about 375 years of conflict. The basic issue is Native land rights versus unremitting colonial expansion. The eight chapters are arranged as separate chronological periods, beginning with seventeenth-century New England, and generally track the westward movement of the frontier. Each chapter presents a biographical sketch of its period's key players. The actors are juxtaposed to present both Native and non-Native views of Native land rights and sovereignty. Sequoyah and John Ross appear in a chapter with Andrew Jackson and John Marshall; Custer is set against Sitting Bull and Red Cloud. Lakota spokesmen Black …

Review Of Voices Of Wounded Knee By William S. E. Coleman, Christer Lindberg

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

I did not know then how much was ended. When I look back now from this high hill of my old age, I can still see the butchered women and children lying heaped and scattered all along the crooked gulch as plain as when I saw them with eyes still young. And I can see that something else died there in the bloody mud, and was buried in the blizzard. A people's dream died there. It was a beautiful dream.

The heartbreaking words of Black Elk and the tragic events at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in December of 1890, …

Review Of Collecting Native America, 1870-1960 Edited By Shepard Krech Iii And Barbara A. Hail, Margaret A. Mackichan

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

Setting out to explore the roles of private collectors in founding North American public museums of American Indian materials, the editors of Collecting Native America have assembled discussions of Sheldon Jackson (1834-1909), Alaska's best known late-nineteenth- century missionary collector; David Ross McCord (1844-1930), founder of the McCord National Museum, Montreal, which opened in 1921; Charles Fletcher Lummis (1859-1928) of the Southwest Museum, Los Angeles, chartered in 1907; Rudolf F. Haffenreffer (1874-1954), of Rhode Island's King Philip Museum, established during the 1920s; Phoebe Apperson Hearst (1842-1919), mother of newspaper publishing magnate William Randolph Hearst and founder, in 1901, of the Museum …

The Ogoni Of Nigeria, A. Olu Oyinlade, Jeffery M. Vincent

Department of Anthropology: Faculty Publications

The Ogoni are a minority ethnic people who live in the Western Niger Delta Region of southern Nigeria. During the 1970s, Ogoniland, or the Ogoni Nation, became part of the Rivers State of Nigeria. There are approximately 500,000 Ogoni who represent less than 0.05 percent of Nigeria's 100 to 120 million people. The population density of this region equals 1,233 people per square mile, making it one of the most densely populated areas of Nigeria. Reliable information about the origin of the Ogoni is limited. Archaeological and oral historical evidence suggests that the Ogoni have inhabited the area for over …

Evolving Questions And Comparative Perspectives In Cultural/Historical Perspective: Lessons From Research In Ngecha, Kenya, Carolyn Pope Edwards

Department of Psychology: Faculty Publications

In studying human development in cultural-historical context, we must integrate multiple levels of analysis and strive to identify culture’s imprint inside the contexts of socialization. Issues of methodology are complex. This paper argues that both comparative and historical-interpretive studies are valuable and indeed generative for each other, using as an example an international, collaborative research project focused on East African women and changing childrearing values. The site was Ngecha, a Gikuyu-speaking community in the Central Province of Kenya, during a period of rapid social change from an agrarian to a wage earning economy shortly after national independence (1968-1973). The experiences …

The Archeology Of Mummy Cave, Wyoming: An Introduction To Shoshonean Prehistory, Wilfred M. Husted, Robert Edgar

United States National Park Service: Publications

Contents

Dedication ................................................................................i
Acknowledgments ................................................................................................ ii
List of Figures ......................................................................................................iv
List of Tables .....................................................................................iv
Foreword Thomas A. Foor .......................................................................v
Preface Mummy Cave: Retrospect and Prospect ...................................ix
Chapter I: Introduction ..................................................................1
Chapter II: The Geology of Mummy Cave ..................................................7
John H. Moss
Chapter III: Pollen Analyses at Mummy Cave and Nearby Areas, Northwestern Wyoming ...............13
H. E. Wright, Jr.
Chapter IV: Stratigraphy ..........................................................................19
Chapter V: Radiocarbon Dates ...........................................................23
Chapter VI: Climatic Considerations .............................................................29
Chapter VII: Excavation Techniques ................................................................31
Chapter VIII: The Evidence ...................................................................35
Chapter IX: Comparisons ................................................................................95
Chapter X: Interpretations .....................................................................113
Chapter XI: The Great Basin and Birch Creek Valley As …

A Study Of Sign Language In Clump Anzees, Kelli Bacon

Nebraska Anthropologist

One of the hot topics in anthropology concerns the debate over chimpanzee communicative and lingual abilities. This paper will offer evidence gatheredfrom studies by Allen and Beatrice Gardner, Roger Fouts, Maury and Jane Temerlin, Herbert S. Terrace, T G. Bever, and Sheri Roush who all used American Sign Language (Ameslan) to teach their students Washoe, Lucy, Bruno, Booee, Cindy, Thelma, Nim, Moja, Pili, Tatu, Dar, Loulis, and Ally. Each of the studies lfas tailored differently, but many of the results were the same. This, in itself, might be evidence for some level of lingual ability, but some scholars such as …

An Exploration Of Possible Causes Of High Dropout Rates In Native American Reservation Schools, Mary Cornelius

Nebraska Anthropologist

Native American reservation schools have significantly higher dropout rates and lower graduation rates than the national average. Significant problems behind high dropout rates on Native American reservations in the United States include poverty, lack of support from elders and differing expectations and ways of communicating between teachers and students in the classroom. The history of Native American education includes many efforts at assimilation and the destruction of native cultural practices and languages. This still impedes today 's youth in that many elders still see schooling as a tool of assimilation and do not encourage or support success in what they …

Analyzing Anthropogenic Landscapes With Gis And Remote Sensing: A Literature Review, Andi O. Kraft

Nebraska Anthropologist

Anthropogenic landscapes are those that have been modified, to varying degrees, by human. Their development is affected by the over-use of natural landscapes in the past such as overgrazing, frequent fires, or excessive depletion of forests. Anthropologists analyzing land-use intensification are now realizing the promise of geographical information systems (GIS) and remote sensingfor their research. A literature review of case studies done on varying anthropogenic landscapes will highlight how GIS can give practical integration of geographic spatial structures (habitation, soils, river drainage) to past and current relationships between the environment and human systems when combined with local-level knowledge. Research of …