Digital Commons Network^™

The Documentary Value Of Repairs To The Hwarot, The Korean Bridal Robe, Kisook Suh

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Hwarot is the most sumptuous bridal costume in Korea. Only noble ladies and members of the royal family wore this robe until the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Later, commoners were allowed to wear the Hwarot and it is still worn in the contemporary wedding ceremony in Korea. Although the later Hwarot for commoners was plainer, it retained the same design and the structure of the early one.

The earlier Hwarot shows the excellence of gungsu (宮繡), the palace embroidery, of the royal workshop of the Joseon dynasty. Because of the delicate nature of the materials, not many of these …

Construction Of Social Relationships Through Clothes: Gender, Caste, And Inter-Religious Relationships In Kutch, India, Miwa Kanetani

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This study examines the manner in which the odhani—a head cover cloth used by women in the Kutch District, Gujarat State, India—is worn, in order to explain how clothes create social relationships, like gender, caste, and inter religious relations.

One of the limitations of previous studies on Indian Muslims is that this community -- a minority -- was discussed separately from Hindu society, which has a different social system and structure. However, in reality, both communities share a common culture to a large extent, and regularly interact with each other. Their clothes provide a new perspective for understanding the …

Messages From The Past: An Unbroken Inca Weaving Tradition In Northern Peru, Lynn A. Meisch

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The only documented unbroken Inca weaving tradition thrives today in the Huamachuco region of northern Peru (La Libertad Department), where females in several Andean communities weave belts chronicled in A.D. 1590 by a Mercedarian Friar Martín de Murúa. Murúa was entrusted with collecting tribute from and Christianizing the indigenous population of Yanaca in the Province of Aymarays (in modern Apurimac Department in central Peru). His contemporary Guaman Poma accused Murúa of exploitation of the Indians and drew him beating an elderly male weaver (Guaman Poma 1980 [1615]: fig. 647). In his manuscript titled, “History of the Origin and Genealogy of …

Nasca Needlework And Paracas Procession, Lois Martin

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Among the treasures in the Brooklyn Museum is an ancient cloth from the South Coast of Peru: 38.121, sometimes known as “The Paracas Textile,” and now more often as “The Brooklyn Museum Textile” (BMT) (fig. 1.). First acquired by a Peruvian collector around 1912, the cloth shuttled between New York and Paris in the 1920’s and 30’s, inspiring great interest and numerous studies. One of these, Raoul d’Harcourt’s Textiles of Ancient Peru and their Techniques (1934), has been in reprint since 1962, and continues to intrigue fresh audiences.

The BMT was one of several spectacular fabrics that spurred archeological exploration …

White Snake, Black Snake Folk Narrative Meets Master Narrative In Qing Dynasty Sichuanese Cross-Stitch Medallions, Cory Willmott

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The cross-stitch medallion in figure 1 was collected by my grandmother, Katherine Willmott, in the early 1920s when she was a missionary in Renshow, Sichuan Province, West China. Many years after I inherited it, I learned that it depicts a folk narrative called “White Snake; Black Snake” that was traditionally performed both on stage in the legitimate theaters and in Chinese shadow puppet dramas (Highbaugh n/d:6).

The story may be summarized as follows: There were two female snakes, White Snake and Black Snake, who were inseparable friends. They both changed into beautiful young women. White Snake got married and bore …

Author Biographies

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textile Society of America

10th Biennial Symposium 2006

October 11–14, 2006

Harbourfront Centre

Toronto, Ontario

A-Z pp. 1-26

About The Authors

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

About the Authors

A-Z

Nettie Adams

Monisha Ahmed

...

Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Stephen Wagner

Historical Memory And Empathy In Studio Art Classroom, Karen Hampton

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During the fall of 2002, I was a guest instructor at California College of Art and Craft in Oakland, California, and was asked to create a course inspired by my artwork and research. The course I created was titled, “Slavery, Internment and Transcendence,” subtitled "Artists of Color Who Use Historical Memory." The course involved the study of contemporary artists, their artwork and the historical context in which the artwork was inspired and fashioned

Students were taken inside the artist's world, learning to analyze artwork from the perspective of historical memory. By using "sense of place" curriculum, which included an understanding …

An Ethnographic Interpretation Of The Smoke Rising And Smoke Descending Ceremonial Attire Of The Sa'dan Malimbong Toraja, Maria Christou

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The modern Toraja ceremonial attire worn for the smoke rising and the smoke descending rituals are woven in the Sa'dan Malimbong villages on back strap looms with a continuous warp using both continuous and discontinuous two-faced supplementary weft decorative elements (Christou, 1997; 2005). The smoke rising, or Rambu-Tuka', and smoke descending, or Rambu- Solo', ceremonies are a body of rituals associated with the traditional Toraja religion, or Aluk Todolo; therefore, they form the belief structure of pre-Islamic and Christian Tana Toraja (Mattulada, 1978, p. 135). The style and design elements associated with the traditional religion persist despite changes in materials …

Weaving Messages Today: Three Decades Of Belts In Taquile Island, Peru (1976-2006), Elayne Zorn

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In studying the past, archaeologists examine change and continuity over time, but physical processes that affect the preservation of material remains make fine sequencing, at the level of decades, difficult or impossible. Cultural anthropologists and others who study present-day material culture frequently conduct short-term fieldwork, which makes it difficult or impossible to reliably study transformations over time. One solution to this problem is long-term ethnographic fieldwork, combining synchronic and diachronic data collection, to study processes of change and continuity in the production of individual weavers and extended families over generations, in communities and regions.

This paper is a preliminary analysis …

Symbolic Embellishment Of Ritual Textiles Used In Native American Burial Mounds, Harriet J. Taylor, Stephen A. Taylor

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Honouring the dead is a universal principle that has been evidenced since the dawn of time. Although burial of the dead has not been experienced universally, ritual burial practices have been widespread throughout millennia and it is through examination of burial sites that insight is gained into the manner in which tribute was paid to the dead. When humans became self-aware, understanding that there was a transition between life and the known world, to death and the unknown, those cultures that practiced burial rituals ensured that the dead were well equipped for what may lay ahead.

This paper discusses textile …

Hopewell Earthworks Of Southern Ohio: A Study Of The Purpose Of Earthworks, Erin C. Dempsey

Nebraska Anthropologist

Across the prehistoric landscape, the Ohio Hopewell constructed large mounds and earthworks, and though archaeologists have a general understanding of this phenomenon, questions remain as to the location, purpose, and construction of the earthworks. Answering them, however, is difficult due to the paucity of information, both written and archaeological, regarding the Hopewell and their culture. This paper attempts to discuss how the Hopewell chose earthwork locations, how the earthworks functioned within the culture, how culture affected the construction of the earthworks, and the logistics of time and labor that go into creating such large earthen structures.

Assessing Library Collections Using Brief Test Methodology, Jennifer Benedetto Beals

E-JASL: Electronic Journal of Academic and Special Librarianship (1999-2009, Volumes 1-10)

Abstract

The brief test methodology was developed by Howard White as an assessment tool to determine or verify the existing strength of a library collection. The relatively quick and inexpensive procedure utilizes the Research Libraries Group’s Conspectus levels, subject expertise, and cataloging records in WorldCat. In support of the University of Tennessee Libraries’ continuing efforts to encourage resource sharing with Information Alliance partners, I developed a project with art counterparts at the University of Kentucky and Vanderbilt University. Using brief tests, I completed an assessment of each institution’s collection in the subject area of African art. The results enabled us …

Subject Librarians In The Changing Academic Library, Louise Feldman

E-JASL: Electronic Journal of Academic and Special Librarianship (1999-2009, Volumes 1-10)

Abstract

This article overviews the literature and key topics surrounding the role of subject librarianship in the evolving environment of academic libraries. Subject librarians are looked at in the context of the broad trends affecting librarianship and in the context of the traditional roles they have held in collection development, instruction, and reference. The author opened a discussion on this topic entitled, “Subject Librarians: Viable or Vanishing?” for the RUSA-CODES Dual Assignments Discussion Group at the American Library Association Midwinter Meeting in San Antonio, Texas in January of 2006.

Editorial, Volume 2 - 2006, Ada Long, Dail Mullins

Honors in Practice Online Archive

Table of Contents:

Editorial Policy

Submission Guidelines

Dedication to Ted Estess

Editor’s Introduction by Ada Long

Honors in Chile: New Engagements in the Higher Education System by Juan Carlos Skewes, Carlos Alberto Cioce Sampaio, and Frederick J. Conway

Dominican University of California’s Honors Program and its Relation to University Heritage and Mission by Jayati Ghosh, M. Patricia Dougherty, and Kenneth Porada

Community Beyond Honors: Butler University’s Community Fellows Program by Margaret Brabant and Anne M. Wilson

Leadership in Scholarship Program by Matthew L. Smith and Jason C. Vallee

How to Develop and Promote an Undergraduate Research Day by Michael K. …

Honors In Practice, Volume 2 (Complete Issue)

Honors in Practice Online Archive

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Editorial Policy
Submission Guidelines
Dedication to Ted Estess
Editor’s Introduction-- Ada Long

HONORS DESIGNS
Honors in Chile: New Engagements in the Higher Education System-- Juan Carlos Skewes, Carlos Alberto Cioce Sampaio, and Frederick J. Conway
Dominican University of California’s Honors Program and its Relation to University Heritage and Mission-- Jayati Ghosh, M. Patricia Dougherty, and Kenneth Porada

HONORS INITIATIVES
Community Beyond Honors: Butler University’s Community Fellows Program Margaret Brabant and Anne M. Wilson
Leadership in Scholarship Program Matthew L. Smith and Jason C. Vallee
How to Develop and Promote an Undergraduate Research Day Michael K. Cundall Jr …

Review Of Conservation: Linking, Ecology, Economics, And Culture By Monique Borgerhoff Mulder And Peter Coppolillo, David Himmelfarb

Ecological and Environmental Anthropology (University of Georgia)

Guided by their extensive field experience in conservation research and practice, Monique Borgerhoff Mulder and Peter Coppolillo offer an encompassing introduction to some of the most pervasive and incendiary social and biological science debates concerning biodiversity conservation. As environmental conservation initiatives have expanded throughout the globe in recent decades, scholars primarily from the social sciences have begun to critically examine the often fraught social dynamics of such conservation. This body of work has ignited a series of fierce debates among those with a concern for local peoples who have found themselves marginalized by conservation, those with a concern for rapidly …

The Importance Of Integrative Anthropology: A Preliminary Investigation Employing Primatological And Cultural Anthropological Data Collectionmethods In Assessing Human-Monkey Co-Existence In Bali, Indonesia, James E. Loudon, Michaela E. Howells, Agustin Fuentes

Ecological and Environmental Anthropology (University of Georgia)

This study investigates the interplay between humans (Homo sapiens) and long-tailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis) living in sympatric associations at 11 Hindu temple sites on the island of Bali, Indonesia. Primatological methods were utilized to examine demography, habitat type, and record long-tailed macaque feeding, and ranging behavior. Additionally, interviews and questionnaires were conducted to ascertain Balinese individuals’ perspectives regarding the macaques, local folklores surrounding the macaques, the perceived level of human-macaque overlap, and the degree of crop raiding by the macaques. Ethnographic methods revealed that attitudes toward long-tailed macaques vary, suggesting that human perceptions are determined by religious/local folklores and potential …

Great Plains Quarterly Editorial Matter, Summer 2006

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

Table of Contents, Notes and News.

Book Review: Tell Me, Grandmother: Traditions, Stories, And Cultures Of Arapaho People, Loretta Fowler

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

Organized as a series of "imagined conversations" between Virginia Sutter and her great-grandmother Goes In Lodge (1830-76), Tell Me, Grandmother presents in alternating chapters Goes In Lodge's and Sutter's recollections of their life experiences.

Book Review: Horizons West: Directing The Western From John Ford To Clint Eastwood, Joanna Hearne

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

First published in 1969, Horizons West was one of the early structuralist treatments of a Hollywood genre and a pivotal text in American writing on the Western. Borrowing from anthropological studies of myth, Kitses outlined a series of binary oppositions between the individual and the community, nature and culture, the West and the East, and wedded this thematic outline to a stylistic exploration of three directors: Anthony Mann, Budd Boetticher, and Sam Peckinpah. The book signaled serious academic consideration of Westerns not only as a legitimate art form but also as a complex and meaningful expression of American cultural history. …

Book Review: Horizons West: Directing The Western From John Ford To Clint Eastwood, Joanna Hearne

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

The new edition is a useful overview of six major directors, a densely descriptive homage to the genre, and a touchstone in the history of film genre criticism. Critics familiar with the 1969 edition will appreciate the way Kitses has updated and elaborated on his initial premises. Readers new to Western genre criticism should see the work as an important strand in a broad range of critical discourses that now includes, among others, studies of gender in Westerns by Lee Clark Mitchell and Jane Tompkins, materialist, industry-based analyses by Peter Stanfield, Peter Lehman's extensive readings and re-readings of John Ford's …

Natural Areas, Regions, And Two Centuries Of Environmental Change On The Great Plains, David J. Wishart

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

A careful reading of recent issues of the Natural Areas Journal, the publication of the Natural Areas Association, will leave you with the conclusion that humans are not a part of natural areas. When humans do appear, it is either as disturbing agents, disrupting the naturalness through, for example, the introduction of exotic plants and animals, or as managers, enhancing the naturalness through, for example, prescribed burning. This is an explicit and purposeful exclusion: "We can probably all agree," wrote the editor of the journal in 2004, "that 'natural' places are areas where human actions have minimally changed the …

Book Review: The Cambridge Companion To Willa Cather, Mary R. Ryder

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

In this collection of thirteen essays Lindemann successfully meets her goal of offering recent criticism that recenters Cather as a writer who responded fully to the "changing social and demographic conditions" of her time. The essays indeed encourage reading "against the grain of Cather's escapism" in a range of "interpretative possibilities." Particularly useful are essays exploring little-examined areas of Cather scholarship, including the late Susan Rosowski's study of the comic sense of self in Cather's works and Lisa Marcus's discussion of Cather and the "geography of Jewishness." Rosowski resituates Claude Wheeler's yearning for something splendid in One of Ours within …

Book Review: True West: Authenticity And The American West, Ellen Baker

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

In the culture of the American West, the term "authenticity" comes close to "frontier" in its ubiquity, resonance, and elusiveness. The fifteen essays in this outstanding collection clarify how authenticity has functioned in cultural and literary settings. Instead of simply distinguishing the "fake" from the "authentic," they explore the nature and consequences of quests for and claims to authenticity. Readers interested in the Great Plains will find rewarding essays on literature, environment, and the uses of American Indian history.

Book Review: The Cherokee Nation: A History, James W. Parins

Great Plains Quarterly (through 2013)

This is an important book if only for the reason that it will make many reconsider what they think they know about the Cherokees. Their early history, like that of any people, is obscured in the dimness of the past. While some of the early story may be reconstructed through surviving myth and modern theory, much uncertainty clouds origins and early migration patterns. After white contact and the chronicles and accounts of traders, missionaries, and adventurers are written, the veil isn't entirely lifted. Many written records pose more questions than they answer. For example, when the British first came upon …

Helping Faculty Learn To Teach Better And “Smarter” Through Sequenced Activities, Barbara J. Millis

To Improve the Academy: A Journal of Educational Development

Faculty developers can help faculty learn to intentionally sequence assignments and activities to promote greater learning when they understand the convergent research—with its practical implications for teaching—on how people learn, on deep learning, and on cooperative learning. Such a sequence includes a motivating out-of-class assignment (homework), in-class “processing” that includes active learning and student interactions, and feedback and assessment, often given in multiple ways. This approach is modeled through two examples using graphic organizers.

The Legacy Of Ancient Technology (Uhon 222–009), Troy Lovata

Honors in Practice Online Archive

This course is based in the actual construction, use, and hands-on study of ancient technologies. The everyday, the mundane and the ubiquitous are keys to understanding the past. At the same time, ancient technologies set the stage for modern tools and artifacts, and they provide comparisons to how and why we use technology today. Students will construct and experiment with fire, stone tools, spears and atlatls, weaving and basketry, and adobe architecture. This course will also expose students to both historical and modern issues of resource use and preservation, consumerism and fashion, and the relationship between the natural and built …

Honors In Chile: New Engagements In The Higher Education System, Juan Carlos Skewes, Carlos Alberto Cioce Sampaio, Frederick J. Conway

Honors in Practice Online Archive

Honors programs are rare in Latin America, and in Chile they were unknown before 2003. At the Universidad Austral de Chile, an interdisciplinary group of scholars linked to environmental studies put forward a pilot project for implementing a new experience in higher education. Challenged by an educational environment where (i) apathy and mediocrity have taken over the classrooms, (ii) monodisciplinary training rules the university campus, and (iii) authoritarian teaching persists, this has been an experiment in new ways of approaching the classroom. Stimulated by experiences in the USA, a project proposal was written, finding support in the Chilean Ministry of …

Pollen Concentration Analysis Of Ancestral Pueblo Dietary Variation, Karl J. Reinhard, Sherrian Edwards, Teyona R. Damon, Debra K. Meier

Department of Anthropology: Faculty Publications

Previous coprolite research on the Colorado Plateau has shown that macrofossils are a useful way of statistically demonstrating prehistoric dietary variation of Ancestral Pueblos (Anasazi). Up until now, pollen concentration from human coprolites has not been used for comparative, statistical study. We present here the statistical analysis of pollen concentration values of coprolites from two Ancestral Pueblo sites, Salmon Ruin and Antelope House. The data show that although most pollen types do not show statistically significant variation, there are some types that show how different Ancestral Pueblo populations adapted to plant resources in different environments. The analysis indicates that future …