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A Dress Without A Home: The Unadopted Academic Dress Of The Royal Institute Of British Architects, 1923–24, Philip Goff
A Dress Without A Home: The Unadopted Academic Dress Of The Royal Institute Of British Architects, 1923–24, Philip Goff
Transactions of the Burgon Society
Following the death of Bill Keen, the Managing Director of Ede & Ravenscroft, in 1996, one of [Goff's] tasks, as Academic Consultant, was to sift through hundreds of files and letters at the Chancery Lane premises. On one occasion, a yellowing, quarto-size page fell out of a book. It was headed Supplement to the Journal of the Royal Institute of British Architects, and the bold title of the piece caught his eye: ‘Proposals for the Adoption of an Academic Dress for Members and Licentiates of the Royal Institute of British Architects’. This was followed by some illustrations of the costume …
How Can Academical Dress Survive In The Third Millennium?, Oliver James Keenan
How Can Academical Dress Survive In The Third Millennium?, Oliver James Keenan
Transactions of the Burgon Society
Academical dress enthusiasts have observed—with a mixture of sadness and consternation—the decline of academical costume during the last several decades. There can be little doubt that academical dress is now absent from such settings as grammar schools and university lecture theatres, where it was once regarded as the norm. For many, academical costume is regarded simply as an historical curiosity, the somewhat bizarre attire that garnishes the graduation day with the quintessential trappings of medieval English ceremonial. Despite this, special interest groups have emerged with the intention of promoting the wearing of academical costume over and above its use in …
American Universities’ Departure From The Academic Costume Code, David T. Boven
American Universities’ Departure From The Academic Costume Code, David T. Boven
Transactions of the Burgon Society
Academic dress in the United States of America began after the foundation of the colonial colleges. A gradual decline in its use continued from independence until the decades after the Civil War. It was halted by the creation of the Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume in 1895. Within a generation, though, the Intercollegiate Code was being abandoned in favour of distinctive academic dress. This paper looks more closely at some of the universities that have chosen not to follow the Code for their own academic costume, a practice seen especially in doctoral gowns. A notable example is the doctoral gown …
King’S Crowns: The History Of Academic Dress At King’S College And Columbia University, Stephen L. Wolgast
King’S Crowns: The History Of Academic Dress At King’S College And Columbia University, Stephen L. Wolgast
Transactions of the Burgon Society
Columbia University adopted cap and gown early in its history and embraced them earnestly. Its second president made gowns mandatory on campus every day, a practice that lasted until the American Revolution in 1776. They were still worn to commencements through most of the nineteenth century, their popularity ebbing and flowing, until Columbia established its own rules for academic dress in 1887, which included a scarlet gown for doctors on ceremonial occasions. It was the second coloured gown in use within the Ivy League, after Pennsylvania. Several years later, Columbia’s president hosted the meetings that led to the modern Code. …
Crow’S Feet And Crimson: Academic Dress At Harvard, Nichoals A. Hoffmann
Crow’S Feet And Crimson: Academic Dress At Harvard, Nichoals A. Hoffmann
Transactions of the Burgon Society
Harvard University, the oldest and perhaps most celebrated and prestigious university in the United States, has been a fixture of the Boston area for almost four hundred years. Founded a scant fourteen years after the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock, Harvard has grown from a small colonial school to one of the world’s foremost private research universities. Much has been written about Harvard’s history, but this article explores one small aspect of this vast subject: the history and practice of academic dress at this (by New World standards) ancient institution. Harvard dress as it now stands owes a good deal …
Peculiar Habits: Academic Costumes At Princeton University, Donald L. Drakeman
Peculiar Habits: Academic Costumes At Princeton University, Donald L. Drakeman
Transactions of the Burgon Society
Six years after its founding as colonial America’s fourth college in 1746, Princeton prescribed a design for ‘robes’ to be worn by the president and ‘as many of [the students] as shall see fit … .’ Perhaps not many students actually saw fit to wear them, for, in 1755, the trustees voted to require that ‘all students except freshmen be obliged to appear in Habits’. They recanted just three years later, and revoked the requirement that the students ‘wear peculiar Habits’, thus beginning the University’s own peculiar, nearly 300-year habit of continually revising its approach to academic garb. [Excerpt].
University Uniforms: The Standardization Of Academic Dress In The United States, Robert Armagost
University Uniforms: The Standardization Of Academic Dress In The United States, Robert Armagost
Transactions of the Burgon Society
There are a number of scholars tracing the labyrinthian turns that the history of academic dress has taken at specific schools. In a way, this paper is about one event—the meeting of the leaders of some colleges in New York on 16 May 1895. This paper analyses the influences on that meeting, the results of that meeting, the revisions of that meeting’s outcomes and how all of this has been interpreted from then to now. Most reference material giving the history of academic dress in the United States provides a short synopsis that can basically be summed up as follows. …
The Intercollegiate Code Of Academic Costume: An Introduction, Stephen L. Wolgast
The Intercollegiate Code Of Academic Costume: An Introduction, Stephen L. Wolgast
Transactions of the Burgon Society
The modern academic dress of American universities and of some in Canada is based on or departs from the 1895 Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume, which lives on as the Academic Costume Code. Researchers who describe a North American university’s cap and gown often look into the history of the Code and review the familiar story of its beginnings; they also uncover forgotten elements of the Code’s development. Five of the authors in this volume describe the Code in their articles. The editors believe that instead of printing each history in its respective author’s paper, inde-pendently of the others, a …
Many Coloured Coats: The Systems Of Academical Dress In Nova Scotian Universities, John N. Grant
Many Coloured Coats: The Systems Of Academical Dress In Nova Scotian Universities, John N. Grant
Transactions of the Burgon Society
This paper briefly examines the initial migration to North America of academical costume, describes three of the conventions of academical garb that exist in Canada (adapted respectively from Britain, the United States, and France) and provides a glance at the ancient tradition as it developed and changed in three Nova Scotian institutions.
The ‘Canadian Tradition’ Of Academical Costume In Nova Scotia: The Dalhousie University Model, John N. Grant
The ‘Canadian Tradition’ Of Academical Costume In Nova Scotia: The Dalhousie University Model, John N. Grant
Transactions of the Burgon Society
The eleven degree-granting institutions in Nova Scotia represent a variety of systems and traditions of academical costume. By 1807, the University of King’s College (1789), the oldest university in Nova Scotia, borrowed the academical dress of Oxford University, while l’Université Sainte-Anne, where the use of cap, toge, and épitoge is comparatively recent, is in the tradition of French and Quebec-based institutions. Several schools, including St Mary’s University, St Francis Xavier University, Mount St Vincent University, and the Nova Scotia Agricultural College, follow the rules of the Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume as developed in the United States in the 1890s. …
Authors And Editors; Burgon Society Shop, Stephen L. Wolgast
Authors And Editors; Burgon Society Shop, Stephen L. Wolgast
Transactions of the Burgon Society
This content includes a list of the authors and editors with brief biographies and a list of items available for purchase from The Burgon Society, which includes books, journals, and accessories.
The Development Of Academic Dress In The University Of Warwick, Nicholas Jackson
The Development Of Academic Dress In The University Of Warwick, Nicholas Jackson
Transactions of the Burgon Society
The University of Warwick received its royal charter on 8 March 1965, one of a number of new universities established in the 1960s in response to the Robbins report on higher education, which recommended an immediate expansion in the university sector in the UK. Warwick was one of the first wave of such universities—later dubbed ‘plate-glass universities’—which included Sussex (1961), East Anglia (1962), York (1963), Essex (1964), Lancaster (1964) and Kent (1965). The main proposed site for the new University was an area of farm land lying between Kenilworth Road on the south-east and Westwood Heath Road and the existing …
The Origins Of The University Of Wales Robes, William Gibson, Nicholas Groves
The Origins Of The University Of Wales Robes, William Gibson, Nicholas Groves
Transactions of the Burgon Society
For those of us who regard the range of University of Wales shot silks as among the most beautiful and dignified of silks that adorn academic robes, the fact that details of their origins are unknown has been a source of irritation. The University of Wales Registry has often denied any knowledge of the origins of the University’s robes, and the University of Wales archives in the National Library of Wales contain no papers relating to the design of the robes. However, the recent development of the British Library’s Nineteenth Century Newspapers digital project, available through the Gale Group, has …
Burgon Society Shop, Alex Kerr
Burgon Society Shop, Alex Kerr
Transactions of the Burgon Society
This content includes a list of items available for purchase from The Burgon Society, including books, booklets, The Burgon Society Member's Tie, and The Burgon Society Scarf.
Tudor Sumptuary Laws And Academical Dress: An Act Against Wearing Of Costly Apparel 1509 And An Act For Reformation Of Excess In Apparel 1533, Noel Cox
Transactions of the Burgon Society
In the United Kingdom, as in other modern liberal democracies, there are few, if any, restrictions upon one’s choice of habiliment. There have in the past, however, been repeated attempts in most countries and civilizations—from the Romans (and indeed earlier civilizations) onwards—to strictly control aspects of apparel, by legislation. They were motivated by political, moral or economic considerations. However, these sumptuary laws, as they were known, were generally a failure, for many reasons. Those who wished to ignore them often could do so with impunity. The frequency of such legislation is a sign both of the perceived importance of such …
The Academical Dress Of The University Of Stirling, 1967–2006, Colin Fleming
The Academical Dress Of The University Of Stirling, 1967–2006, Colin Fleming
Transactions of the Burgon Society
The University of Stirling, one of four universities established in Scotland in the 1960s, was the only new foundation; the other three were raised to university status from pre-existing institutions. Unlike the other three—Dundee, Heriot-Watt and Strathclyde—Stirling had no established programmes of study around which to develop a system of academical dress. This helps to explain why Stirling was unique among the Scottish 1960s foundations in not adopting a faculty colour scheme. Rather, the system of academical dress was allowed to evolve with the University itself. This has led to a few anomalies but no more than those at other, …
Doctors’ Greens, Bruce Christianson
Doctors’ Greens, Bruce Christianson
Transactions of the Burgon Society
Everybody knows that doctors wear scarlet, at least on red-letter days. Many are aware that, in addition to scarlet, Henry VIII’s Act lists cloth of the colours mulberry and violet as proper alternatives to black for the holder of a doctor’s degree, although considerably fewer know that this section of Henry’s Act applied only to the clergy. However, virtually nobody seems to be aware of the evidence that there was once a time when doctors, along with other important people, such as judges and bishops, sometimes wore green robes on formal occasions.6 The purpose of this short note is to …
Burgon Society Shop, Alex Kerr
Burgon Society Shop, Alex Kerr
Transactions of the Burgon Society
This content includes a list of items available for purchase from The Burgon Society, including books, booklets, The Burgon Society Member's Tie, and The Burgon Society Scarf.
Merging Traditions: Academic Dress And Nursing, Elizabeth Scott
Merging Traditions: Academic Dress And Nursing, Elizabeth Scott
Transactions of the Burgon Society
This paper will argue for an innovation in the field of academic dress, for nursing graduates. Various areas will be examined: the origin of the epitoge and its development in recent times; women and academia; changes to nursing education in the UK; parallels in custom between academia and the nursing profession; the significance of the custom of wearing caps (or not); and finally a proposal for a modern epitoge. Nursing has only very recently joined the echelons of higher education. Consequently academic dress was approved for, and allocated to, nursing graduates either pre-registration, or post-registration advanced level. The results were …
From The Editor; Burgon Society: Officers, Fellows And Other Members; Burgon Society Events In 2005, Alex Kerr
From The Editor; Burgon Society: Officers, Fellows And Other Members; Burgon Society Events In 2005, Alex Kerr
Transactions of the Burgon Society
This content includes a note from the editor, Alex Kerr; a list of Officers, Fellows, and Other Members of the Burgon Society, and a list of events in 2005.
Lambeth Degree Academic Dress, Noel Cox
Lambeth Degree Academic Dress, Noel Cox
Transactions of the Burgon Society
In the United Kingdom the right of universities and other institutions to confer degrees is strictly controlled by legislation.1 Lambeth degrees, also occasionally and perhaps misleadingly called Canterbury degrees (as in ‘DMus Cantuar’) are still awarded by the archbishop of Canterbury under the general authority of the Ecclesiastical Licences Act 1533–1534,3 although he is not a university nor an educational institution per se. The continued specific authority for the archbishop to grant degrees can however be found in the Education Reform Act 1988,4 and the Education (Recognised Bodies) (England) Order 2003.5 But unlike other degreegranting bodies, the archbishop of Canterbury …
Academical Dress In Germany: Part 1—A Historical Outline And The Development Of A New System, Thorsten E. Hauler
Academical Dress In Germany: Part 1—A Historical Outline And The Development Of A New System, Thorsten E. Hauler
Transactions of the Burgon Society
This paper will consider the higher education sector then and now and will give a summary of the present situation as far as graduation celebrations are concerned. The documentary evidence for medieval academical dress in Germany will form the basis on which a logical system of gowns, hoods and hats for use at present-day German state universities will be proposed. The focus of this paper is on the first degree and only touches on the doctorate degree where necessary. [Excerpt].
Academic Dress In The Oxford Dictionary Of National Biography, William Gibson
Academic Dress In The Oxford Dictionary Of National Biography, William Gibson
Transactions of the Burgon Society
The new Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, published to great acclaim in 2004, contains over 50,000 biographical articles of men and women who have contributed to the history of Britain. The printed edition runs to sixty volumes and has 60,000 pages; it was written by 10,000 specialist contributors and was a multimillion- pound project funded by the British Academy and Oxford University Press. It took over thirteen years to complete, replaces the Victorian DNB and the online edition has all the links and connections to the National Portrait Gallery and other sites you would expect of a major academic resource. …
Lined With Gold: London University And The Colour Of Science, Bruce Christianson
Lined With Gold: London University And The Colour Of Science, Bruce Christianson
Transactions of the Burgon Society
Faculty colours for academic hoods are a surprisingly modern development. London University seems to have invented the first British system of faculty colours, out of whole cloth as it were, in 1844.1 But in 1862 this first system was swept away and replaced by a second, radically different system which, amid other changes, altered the colours assigned to the various faculties.2 It is this second system which is (with some modifications) recognizably still in use at London University today. [Excerpt].
The Bcc Numbering System: Back To The Future?, Elizabeth Scott
The Bcc Numbering System: Back To The Future?, Elizabeth Scott
Transactions of the Burgon Society
The BCC (British Colour Council) colour standard is important as it was a very early attempt to standardize the thorny issue of describing colours, which are, by their very nature, subjective from person to person.1 Robemakers may use different shades of colour—for example, I have a ‘scarlet’ hood binding that is almost maroon and a scarlet hood lining that is a deep red. Palatinate Purple (of Durham) has seen various shades used, as has Beaton Pink in use at the University of East Anglia. [Excerpt].
Academical Dress At The University Of Sheffield: A Timeline, Nicholas Gledhill
Academical Dress At The University Of Sheffield: A Timeline, Nicholas Gledhill
Transactions of the Burgon Society
The timeline given is primarily concerned with tracing the official regulation of Academic Dress of the University of Sheffield since its foundation. However, various secondary sources have been used to interpret the regulations and place them in context. Although the regulations are now without anomaly this was not always so, and tracking down the specifics of when changes were made would not have been possible without access to the complete set of the Calendars of the University of Sheffield. Some enigmas remain. Why green for bachelors and masters? Why red and not scarlet, for doctors’ hoods? [Excerpt].
From The Chairman; Officers, Fellows And Other Members Of The Burgon Society; Bruno Neveu: An Obituary; Visit To Ede & Ravenscroft At Waterbeach; Garden Party; Annual General Meeting; Congregation, Alex Kerr
Transactions of the Burgon Society
This content includes the front cover, the table of contents, a letter from the Chairman, a list of Officers, Fellows, and other Members of the Burgon Society. In addition, an obituary of Bruno Neveu by John Rogister is included, as well as accounts of a visit to Ede & Ravenscroft at Waterbeach by Peter Durant, a garden party at St. George's College in Weybridge, the Annual General Meeting, and the Congretation's proceedings of a Ceremony for the Admission of Fellows and the President's Address.
A Fellow’S Progress, Torsten E. Hauler
A Fellow’S Progress, Torsten E. Hauler
Transactions of the Burgon Society
I joined the Burgon Society in January 2004 and contacted the Dean of Studies, Professor Bruce Christianson straight away, my proposal being for a critical study of academical dress in Germany. My intention was to investigate the history and to propose a new design, based on my findings. My second intention was to hand this in as a Fellowship submission, which if successful would be a great honour for me and would entitle me to my first hood in this country. [Excerpt].
In The Pink: The Strange Case Of Trinity College Dublin, Bruce Christianson
In The Pink: The Strange Case Of Trinity College Dublin, Bruce Christianson
Transactions of the Burgon Society
According to the frontispiece of Taylor’s history of the University of Dublin, published in 1845, the MA hood of Trinity College was once lined with pink.1 However in Gutch’s table of 1858 the MA lining is listed as dark blue, and it has been given as blue (with various qualifications of the shade) by every authority since then. It is natural to assume that the academic dress of Trinity College was, since the University’s eventual foundation in 1591, developed from and subsequently influenced (although not constrained) by that of Oxford and Cambridge. [Excerpt].
The Regulation Of Undergraduate Academic Dress At Oxford And Cambridge, 1660–1832, William Gibson
The Regulation Of Undergraduate Academic Dress At Oxford And Cambridge, 1660–1832, William Gibson
Transactions of the Burgon Society
Throughout the ‘long’ eighteenth century undergraduates at Oxford and Cambridge were differentiated into four principal classes: noblemen; gentlemen commoners (at Cambridge fellow-commoners); scholars (including pensioners at Cambridge); and servitors (sometimes known at Cambridge as sizars and also at Oxford as battelers.) At Oxford there was an additional group, commoners, between scholars and servitors. Each of these classes of undergraduates was entitled to a different form of dress. [Excerpt].