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The Authors

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Short professional biographies of the Contributors: Dimitra Andrianou, Giacomo Bardelli, Magali An Berthon, Tina Boloti, Cecilie Brøns, Ana Cabrera-Lafuente, Francesca Coletti, Roxana Coman, Catarina Costeira, Cristina Cumbo, Camilla Cziffery Nielsen, Klara Dankova, Anna Maria Desiderio, Kerstin Droß-Krüpe, Arianna Esposito, Astrid Fendt, Nade Genevska Brachikj, Francisco B. Gomes, Judith Goris, Audrey Gouy, Karina Grömer, Morten Grymer-Hansen, Mary Harlow, Susanna Harris, Sophia Larissa Hayda, Angela Huang, Floor Huisman, Alina Iancu, Zofia Kaczmarek, Marisa Kerbizi, Meghan Korten, Tetiana Krupa, Karolina Anna Kulpa, Lena Larsson Lovén, Ronja Lau, Yuliia Lazorenko, Susanne Lervad, Petra Linscheid, Christina Margariti, Maria João Melo, Elena Miramontes Seijas, Leyre Morgado-Roncal, …

The Euroweb Textile And Clothing Terminology Network And The Digital Atlas Of European Textile Heritage: Some Reflections And Results, Louise Quillien, Alina Iancu, Meghan Korten, Susanne Lervad, Joana Sequeira, Catarina Costeira

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

One of the research areas of the EuroWeb project during the four years of the COST Action (November 2020 – October 2024) is the comparative study of textile and clothing terminologies in European languages across time. Inside the EuroWeb network, the research group on Textile and clothing terminologies has three topics of particular interest: 1. the specificities of these terminologies, and the strategies for naming textiles and garments; 2. the impact of European geography on textile and clothing terminologies, especially visible through textile terms formed after a toponym or through the circulation of loanwords; 3. the influence of textile and …

Displaying And Experiencing Dress Identities In Museums: Case Studies From The Etruscan Period To Modern Times, Karina Grömer, Astrid Fendt, Morten Grymer-Hansen, Anna Zimmermann, Kayleigh Saunderson, Camilla Cziffery Nielsen, Francisco B. Gomes

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Dress, clothes, and accessories receive and give meaning through their nearness to the human body. As P. Stallybrass writes: “Bodies come and go: the clothes that have received those bodies survive.” It is through the close interaction between dress and person that they both receive their meaning. Clothes shape the human body, and we in return shape our clothes. Dress communicates class, gender, nationality, and marital status, and we leave behind parts of us in its smell, wrinkles, wear, and tear: “Clothes receive the human imprint.” Archaeological and historical dress — no matter how ancient — remain intrinsically linked to …

Townsend, Rowan County Genealogical Society.

Rowan County Genealogy Collection

Genealogy of the Townsend family in Rowan County, Kentucky.

Lewis, Thomas, Rowan County Genealogical Society.

Rowan County Genealogy Collection

Genealogy of the Thomas Lewis family in Rowan County, Kentucky.

Walker, Rowan County Genealogical Society.

Rowan County Genealogy Collection

Genealogy of the Walker family in Rowan County, Kentucky.

How Did Anastasia Survive For So Long - A Conspiracy, Darya Mcdevitt

Student Research Poster Presentations 2024

This poster explains had the conspiracy about Anna Anderson being the long lost Romanov Grand Duchess Anastasia was able to last for so long. Also explaining what made it so captivating and interesting.

Alderson, Rowan County Genealogical Society.

Rowan County Genealogy Collection

Genealogy of the Alderson family in Rowan County, Kentucky

Red Dyes From West To East In Medieval Europe: From Portuguese Manuscript Illuminations To Romanian Textiles, Irina Petroviciu, Paula Nabais, Maria J. Melo

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Red is the color par excellence, its symbolism being linked with protection and magic through its primary attributes, fire and blood. It was the predominant color from the earliest times, certainly during the Greek and Roman periods and into Medieval Europe, until blue became a competitor around the 13th century. Mineral pigments, like iron oxides, were the first red sources, used to draw lines, dots, or spots on cave walls or stones. Later, other mineral red pigments were also exploited: Cinnabar, natural mercury sulfide, since the Neolithic, and realgar, arsenic trisulfide, in Ancient Egypt. Scientific investigation revealed that, although …

Clothing In Transition: Social, Symbolic, And Legal Aspects Of Garments From Prehistory To The Early Byzantine Period, Tina Boloti, Francesca Scotti, Cristina Cumbo, Petra Linscheid

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Since ancient times, garments served a wide range of purposes: Either functional, providing protection by covering the body, or symbolic, as an element of non-verbal communication and marker of identity. In particular, this stimulates the development of specific characteristics in shape, decoration, or material composition, which generate distinctions among garments, as acknowledged by Roman jurists too.

These distinctions are determined by various factors. One important factor is the social meaning of clothing: There are garments for public life, garments expressing rank, garments suited for special professions, or garments intended for sacred/priestly rites reflecting particular religious symbols. And, of course, clothes …

Dean-Creech, Volume 2-3, Rowan County Genealogical Society.

Rowan County Genealogy Collection

Genealogy of the Dean-Creech family in Rowan County, Kentucky.

Fannin, Hortense, Rowan County Genealogical Society.

Rowan County Genealogy Collection

Genealogy of the Hortense Fannin, née Whitt, family in Rowan County, Kentucky.

Hough, Bertha, Rowan County Genealogical Society.

Rowan County Genealogy Collection

Genealogy of the Bertha Ross Hough, née Poage family in Rowan County, Kentucky.

Mcclure, Rowan County Genealogical Society.

Rowan County Genealogy Collection

Genealogy of the McClure family in Rowan County, Kentucky.

Little, Isaac, Rowan County Genealogical Society.

Rowan County Genealogy Collection

Genealogy of the Isaac Little family in Rowan County, Kentucky.

Elam, Rowan County Genealogical Society.

Rowan County Genealogy Collection

Genealogy of the Elam family in Rowan County, Kentucky.

False Confessions And Police Torture In Mississippi, Chloe Ard

Merge

No abstract provided.

Logos-Sophia, Elliott Norman, Donald Wayne Viney, Keith Elliott Perkins, Addyson Kay Campbell, Hunter Hinds, Scott Squires

LOGOS-SOPHIA: The Journal of the PSU Philosophical Society

Logos-Sophia, Volume 17, Spring 2024. The Journal of the Pittsburg State University Philosophical Society has largely been a student publication with occasional faculty contribution

In The Eyes Of The Beholders: Understanding Public Perceptions Of Dungeons And Dragons And Its Players Using Visual Media, Mallory Hardesty

Mahurin Honors College Capstone Experience/Thesis Projects

Television can have a major impact on how groups of people are seen in shows. The media that people consume have an influence on how they view and interact with the world. Television also utilizes character creation of different types of people to create an array of characters for viewers to enjoy. However, how these characters are portrayed can influence how the public sees the groups that the character is apart of. The “Nerd” subgroup started for form as a subcultural identity in the 1970s and 80s, and as this group began to form, stereotypes about them quickly began to …

The Redwood, V.120 2023-2024, Santa Clara University

The Redwood

No abstract provided.

Strategic Rhetorics: Apartheid South Africa/Apartheid Israel: Address To Chapman University’S Gaza Solidarity Encampment, May 2024, Ian Barnard

English Faculty Articles and Research

"On 2 May 2024, Chapman University faculty were asked to participate in a 'faculty speak out' in support of the Chapman Students For Justice In Palestine’s Gaza solidarity encampment. We were invited to speak 'from our expertise and/or personal experiences in a call for a ceasefire in Gaza' (Leitz, 2024). This is a slightly expanded version of what I said[.]"

Communism As An Americanism: The Curious Case Of The Red Jeffersonians, Matthew H. Hill

[Archive] Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

The communist movement in the United States has struggled with many issues over its long history. One of these problems is the problem of American history itself. The United States, in many ways the quintessential capitalist state, would seemingly represent the ultimate enemy for a communist. It is more than a little bizarre, then, to see the, sometimes intense, admiration that many American communists had for men like Thomas Jefferson and Abraham Lincoln. While contradictory at first, this essay shows the logic behind this admiration, exploring the long history of American communism’s love affair with iconic figures of American history. …

Escaping The Peripherality: Local Experiences Of The Us Military Presence In Northeast Thailand, Wipawee Srifa

CGU Theses & Dissertations

From 1964 to 1976, the United States military deployed troops to Thailand as part of its strategic operations during the Vietnam War. Most of these military personnel were stationed in Isan, a northeastern region of Thailand, due to its proximity to key bombing targets in Indochina. Historically, Isan was affiliated with Laos and was assimilated into Thai governance in the late eighteenth century. Until the 1950s, most of Isan’s population resided in rural, agricultural communities and were politically, economically, and culturally marginalized by mainstream Thai society. The Thai state’s internal colonization exacerbated socioeconomic disparities for Isan peasants, severely restricting avenues …

The “Practitioner Of Physick And Surgery” And The Enslaved “Doctor”: Medicine, Slavery, Race, And Patriarchy In The Eighteenth-Century Jamaica, Elise A. Mitchell

History Faculty Works

In 1773, Alexander Johnston, a Scottish ‘Practitioner of Physick and Surgery’ in St. Ann, Jamaica, made a list titled ‘my slaves’. Beside the name ‘Galen’ he wrote ‘a Doctor’. Galen was the only enslaved person Johnston ever recognised with that title. Many slave owners called the people they enslaved and tasked with attending ill enslaved people, ‘Doctor’, ‘Doctress’, or ‘nurse’. Johnston’s records reveal that he sent Galen away to train under another white doctor before assigning him that role. Johnston and Galen both lived in a time when medical labour and expertise were increasingly masculinised in Jamaica. Juxtaposing the histories …

Túnicas Masculinas A Fines Del Horizonte Medio En La Costa Sur Central Del Perú, No Uno Sino Varios Estilos, Rommel Angeles Falcón

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Las excavaciones arqueológicas en Huaca Malena (valle bajo de Asia), en la costa sur central del Perú, han permitido recuperar una importante cantidad de textiles procedentes de tumbas y de contextos secundarios de fines del período Horizonte Medio (Siglos VIII-XI d.C.). Destaca la variedad de túnicas o uncus que permiten visualizar la vestimenta masculina de la época y conocer aspectos de su tecnología, iconografía y de las relaciones inter-regionales que se dieron durante el estado wari.

Archaeological excavations at Huaca Malena (lower Asia valley), on the south central coast of Peru, have allowed the recovery of a significant amount of …

Moche-Wari Textiles From Huaca Del Sol, Moche Influence In The Middle Horizon, Amy Oakland

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

This paper analyzes a selection of textiles excavated in 2013 in the destroyed late Middle Horizon (AD 800-1000) cemetery on Huaca del Sol, Huacas de Moche in the Moche Valley of northern Peru. The Huaca Sol textile group was woven with local, Moche style S-spun cotton yarns between AD 888-1050, calibrated radiocarbon dates along with a small number of Wari textiles, late Moche and Wari ceramics and ceramics in Casma and Cajamarca styles. Textile structure and design provide the basis for reconstruction into complete garment types known to other Middle Horizon collections on the central and southern coast where Moche …

An Examination Of An Inka(?) Aksu In The Collections Of The Textile Museum, Shelley Burian

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

This paper presents the preliminary results and conclusions from an examination of an exceedingly rare example of a weft-face and tapestry-woven aksu in the collections of The Textile Museum. Patterned with figurative butterflies, the garment closely resembles those depicted by Felipe Guaman Poma de Ayala in several of his illustrations of ceremonies and elite women. Its features present challenges for determining its dates and the level of social status it represents or confers. The similarity between the aksu’s butterflies and those in a checkerboard unku in the Field Museum provides suggestive evidence for its use in an official state setting. …

Inka Khipus, Thread Wrappings And Subject Markers, Lucrezia Milillo

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

This work aims to contribute to our current understanding of how information was organized in khipus, Andean colourful knotted cords used as writing. If the idea that khipu signs could work as a flow chart was common in the last two decades, it is not until the notion of kayte as subject marker was elaborated by Sabine Hyland on the basis of Julio C. Tello's notes that the theory could be discussed on more empirical grounds. So far, the term “kayte” applied to needlework bundles, pompons or tufts attached to the beginning of the primary cord. In this work, the …

Evidencias De Tecnología Textil En Un Basural Del Santuario De Pachacamac, Rommel Angeles Falcón, Susana Abad, Janet Oshiro

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Recientes excavaciones arqueológicas en el santuario arqueológico de Pachacamac, valle de Lurín, Costa Central del Perú, permitieron identificar un denso basural del período Inca (Siglos XV-XVI) que contenía una importante cantidad de elementos relacionados a la actividad textil: husos, piruros, ovillos, espadas, estacas y peines, entre otros que permiten visualizar la cadena operativa que se realizaba en el santuario de Pachacamac.

Recent archaeological investigations in the archeological site of Pachacamac (Lurin Valley, Central Coast of Peru) allowed us to identify a dense Inca garbage dump (XV-XVI centuries) that contained an important amount of textile artifacts: spindles, piruros, balls, swords, stakes …

Behind The Scenes In Museum Collecting: The Destinies Of Henry Wellcome’S Pre-Hispanic Textiles, Penelope Dransart

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

In this article, I explore the sale of pre-Hispanic textiles from Andean countries, especially Peru, demonstrating networks between collectors, auction houses and researchers. Sir Henry S. Wellcome (1856-1936) was a North American pharmaceutical entrepreneur. After transferring his commercial interests to London in 1880, he bought textiles and other antiquities at auctions. I outline the activities of Wellcome staff in registering the textiles in Wellcome’s store at Willesden, London. Textiles which preserve Wellcome labels now in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, University of Cambridge, and the National Museums of Liverpool are described. I examine the case of a distinctive Wari …