Digital Commons Network^™

Designing With Drafts And Cross-Sections: Reflections On How Representations Of Woven Structure Shape Design Practice, Deanna Gelosi, Laura Devendorf

Textile Intersections Conference Series

The draft, a grid of black and white squares used to specify where a particular warp crosses over or under a weft in woven cloth, is a common representation used to design and describe woven structures. The squares in a draft directly, or with a few modifications, translate to manufacturing instructions, which makes the draft a common representation used in weaving design software. In this paper, we describe how using a different woven structure representation, a cross-section, in a design tool that foregrounds different concerns. Specifically, we describe and reflect on our motivation, design, and initial testing of an interactive …

Textile Digital Drape Definition - Td3: Comparing Digital To Physical Design Considerations, Alexandra Kuijpers, Troy Nachtigall, Maarten Van Bommel

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Fashion design is, by nature, a very hands-on activity in which the touch and feel of a textile are considered vital to the design of the garment. Yet when designers work with digital fashion design software, they rely on digital textile definitions that are visual instead of tangible textile swatches. In this research, we created a new Textile Digital Drape Definition (TD3) that is heavily informed by textile drape properties. We compared the TD3 to traditional tangible textile interaction, via an intense workshop examining eleven textile sample swatches. The digital drape of the TD3 follows standardized textile science drape methods, …

Soft Shaping: Zonal Elasticity In Layered Woven Textiles, Ihab Jiryis, Arielle Blonder

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Body-shaping garments establish form through mechanical action at the textile-body interface: corsetry through rigid reinforcement and lacing, elastic shapewear through elastomeric recovery. This study shifts attention from how a textile acts on the body to how its form develops and is organised before application to the body. The Zonal Elasticity System (ZES) is a moisture-activated self-forming system based on differing moisture-responsive behaviour within bonded cotton-linen assemblies. Twenty-four specimens across three phases examined how grain orientation, cut topology, constraint geometry, bond routing, pre-stress, and interlayer coupling directed deformation towards a defined waist region. Connected cut units propagated deformation across the field, …

Reya: Reuse Yarn. Product, Process And Practice, Elizabeth Gaston

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Reya: Reuse Yarn is a practice-led research project that investigates scalable methods for reducing pre-consumer waste in commercial knitwear manufacturing. Positioned within a circular manufacturing framework, the study re-evaluates knit as product, process, and practice to generate new insights into sustainable production. The research addresses the environmental and economic impacts of deadstock yarn, particularly low-value synthetic blends that are typically discarded due to limitations in quantity, aesthetics, and material consistency. Drawing on interdisciplinary knowledge from knit and visual colour psychology, the project employs a Knit Thinking methodology, combining tacit material understanding with explicit technical knowledge through iterative, material-led enquiry. The …

Designing With Evolutive Colors: A Proof Of Concept For Bio-Based Dye Integration In Textile Design Digital Workflow, Clarisse Barbot, Camille Fuzier, Bertrand Loïc, De Visscher Emile, Panayotis Mavros

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Current industrial textile production relies on petrochemical dyes. This dependence has led to growing interest in bio-based alternatives, although their adoption remains constrained by technical and cultural factors. In particular, bio-based dyes do not meet typical industrial standards for stability, diversity of colour choices, and reproducibility. Textiles dyed with bio-based colourants tend to exhibit colour changes under light exposure. Current design software systems were built with the conventional expectation of stability of petrochemical dyes in mind, making them ill-adapted to bio-based dye behaviour and thus hampering their industrial adoption. To address this gap, we propose the prototype of a novel …

Warpform: An Accessible Loom Add-On For Weaving Non-Rectangular Textile-Forms, Savanne Klop, Manuel Carazo, Milou Voorwinden, Holly Mcquillan

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Textile-form Weaving, in which the fabric and form are created simultaneously on the loom, can support zero-waste, on-demand production of textile-based products. However, textile researchers and designers are limited in their ability to explore the full potential of Textile-form Weaving because most looms do not allow for all variables to be manipulated. In this paper, we present WarpForm, an accessible add-on for a standard hand-operated loom that opens up new possibilities for weavers. Specifically, through enabling the variable consumption of individual warp threads, WarpForm allows weavers to create 3D and non-rectangular forms directly on the loom. Through a description of …

Sketching Fast, Sketching Slow: Extending Sketchnoting Practices With E-Textiles, Anna Blumenkranz, Barbro Scholz, Irene Posch, Verena Fuchsberger

Textile Intersections Conference Series

As design researchers, we are often challenged to make sense of qualitative data without losing its nuances and situated character in the process. Sketchnoting is a widely used technique for transforming data into personal and memorable summaries. Typically practised with pen and paper, it involves a combination of drawings and text. However, what often remains underexplored is the formative role of materials in shaping sketchnoting practices, leaving open questions about the kinds of knowledge different materials enable to articulate. This paper explores e-textiles as a medium for sketchnoting, examining how their temporal, materially composite, interactive properties influence processes of data …

Towards Self-Powered Woven Triboelectric Textiles Using Commercial Yarns, Swarnalok De, Mithila Mohan, Matteo Iannacchero, Marie Vihmar, Jaana Vapaavuori

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Electronic textiles (e-textiles) are emerging as promising next-generation sensors with applications in sport, healthcare, defense, and human-computer interactions. On one hand, their soft interface with skin provides comfortable user experience and offers the advantage of tailoring the sensors to adapt to different body types. On the other hand, their dependence on external power sources such as electrochemical batteries for prolonged monitoring of physiological cues compromises these inherent advantages by incorporating bulky, rigid, and non-biocompatible components into the textile designing. In this context, textile-based triboelectric nanogenerators (T-TENGs) are gaining attention due to their ability to act as self-powering sensors. However, most …

Soft Shapeshifters: Thai Backstrap Weaving As Embodied Interaction And Soft System, Bine Roth, Wuthigrai Si

Textile Intersections Conference Series

No abstract provided.

Towards Textile Templating In Mycofabrication: Knitted Structures As Substrate And Scaffold, Romy Kaiser, Elise Elsacker, Martyn Robertson, Ben Bridgens, Jane Scott

Textile Intersections Conference Series

This study investigates the potential of knitted textiles as both substrate and three-dimensional scaffold for mycofabrication, contributing to the development of textile templating approaches in biofabrication. While textiles are commonly used as reinforcement in mycelium-based composites, their role as active, designable interfaces for growth remains underexplored. Two experimental approaches using Ganoderma lucidum were conducted: seeding-based inoculation and liquid-state fermentation. The first evaluated fibre substrates (namely acrylic, wool, cotton, and linen) on mycelial colonisation. Cellulosic fibres, particularly cotton and linen, supported more integrated and extensive growth, while wool enabled limited surface expansion and acrylic showed minimal colonisation. Overall, low biomass shows …

Hooked: Programmable, Capacitive Sensing Through Crochet As A Medium For Garments With Tactile Interaction, Juliette Hars, Josie Hughes

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Soft capacitive sensing in wearable textiles has many promising applications such as health monitoring, rehabilitation, or intelligent sports garments requiring sensitivity and sensory stability. Existing approaches either rely on rigid or semi-rigid components that compromise conformability, or on conductive yarn arrangements whose sensing geometry is fixed by the textile structure and difficult to adapt at design time. Crochet is an additive, stitch-by-stitch construction process which offers a largely unexplored route to programmable sensing surfaces, in which electrode geometry, baseline capacitance, and sensing range can be tuned directly through fabrication. We present a means of programmable capacitive sensing through crochet, enabling …

Colour Without Extraction: Towards Ethical Pigments, Tonya Meyrick, Jacinta Kay

Textile Intersections Conference Series

This paper investigates how recycled textile waste, reconstituted as particulate pigment, reshapes understandings of material intelligence in textile design, proposing a specifically chromatic account. Through iterative dyeing trials on cellulose substrates conducted within the Perpetual Pigments research initiative, the study examines what occurs when colour is treated as an active participant rather than a controllable output. Drawing on new materialist theory and circular economy frameworks, the paper argues that waste-derived pigments introduce relational dynamics that challenge industrial assumptions of chromatic stability and control. Despite growing interest in bio-colour, recycled pigment systems remain underexamined within design research. This paper responds to …

Beyond Softness: Examining How Vocabulary Marginalises The Material Narrative Of Native British Wool, Zoë Fletcher, Nicci James

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Softness has become the dominant metric through which wool is evaluated in knitwear design. This paper argues that such language privileges fibres associated with Merino and marginalises native British and regional wools with distinct breed-specific qualities. Drawing on practice-based research, material experiments with native British wool yarns, and literature on wool fibre and supply chains, we examine how existing terminology fails to support design engagement with these materials. In response, we propose a five-part framework, Place, People, Process, Properties and Practice, to support a more nuanced wool literacy. Developing richer vocabulary for native British wool is not simply a matter …

Developing An Industrial Microbial Colour System Through Textile Printing, Ruth Lloyd, Alice Taylor, James Ajioka, Carole Collet

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Emerging microbial colourants offer potential for more sustainable textile coloration, yet their integration into design and industrial production remains limited by the absence of systems that support their use. While existing biotechnology research has focused on colourant production and environmental performance, less attention has been given to how these materials can be applied within textile workflows. This paper demonstrates how microbial colour can be integrated into textile design through the development of reproducible protocols and a structured colour system. Drawing on practice-led doctoral research conducted in collaboration with the biotechnology company Colorifix, textile printing is used as a method to …

Designing Garments As Processes: Material Transformation, Temporality, And Care In Contemporary Fashion Practice, Zuzana Šebeková

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Recent discussions on sustainability in fashion have highlighted the limitations of approaches centred on material choices, technological innovation, recycling, and circular systems, which often fail to address the underlying issues of overproduction and overconsumption. In response, this paper proposes a shift from product-centred sustainability toward process-oriented approaches that engage with the temporal life of garments. The paper analyses a bachelor-level fashion design project as a case study of designing garments as processes. The project explores garment development through bio-based coatings, compost-induced degradation, cracking, repair, and material renewal. These processes introduce transformation, instability, and variability as intrinsic design conditions rather than …

Mechanically Recycling Metallicized Fabrics, Magdalena Kohler, Maya Herron, Tommaso Nieri, Daniele Spinelli, Ilaria Canesi, Zora Kutz, Berit Greinke, Rebecca Stewart

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Electronic textiles (e-textiles) are a problematic technology when designing for sustainability as they combine two of the most polluting industries - textile and electronics. While ‘design for disassembly’ is frequently proposed as a sustainability strategy for the end-of-life of e-textile devices, what happens after components are separated and whether they can still function in new contexts has not been sufficiently addressed. Metallicized fabrics are commonly used in the e-textiles space when crafting/designing to provide conductivity for an array of applications, thus this study is focused on the post-disassembly potential and limitations of these materials. We apply recycling techniques from conventional …

Looming Between Shaft Looms And A Tc2 Jacquard Loom - A Serendipitous Expedition With Live Weaving, Pei-Ying Lin, Alex Mclean, Helen Milne, Femke Vorselen, Kristina Andersen

Textile Intersections Conference Series

This paper describes an artistic exploration of the potential for more lively engagements with a TC2 digital Jacquard loom. We listened to the loom to enable control of every warp thread in real time, allowing live manipulation of the patterns. This exposed us to the cognitive challenge of designing live for 2 to the power of 1320 warp possibilities. To address this, we made a customised TC2 control software interface, LOOMIMG, that implements traditional shaft loom logic as a digital, interactive weaving draft. Our tests with two experienced weavers suggest that this facilitates not only a creative space that is …

Evolutive Textiles Design With The Variability Of Natural Dyes: A Color-Driven Approach Of Textile Design, Lou Ramage, Camille Fuzier

Textile Intersections Conference Series

In a context of over-standardized color production and stability-based evaluations of dyes, this article proposes a way to embrace and implement natural dyes’ temporal variabilities in evolutive textiles design and discusses how taking these into account modifies textile design practices. As a designer and a material scientist working with a dyer craftswoman, we present an adaptation of color characterisation methods and a chromo-chronological database, and how these tools result in a proof of concept of a tufted piece with pattern apparition, paving the way for a color-driven textile design.

Textile Commons Of Care: Intergenerational Mending And Temporalities, Sam Bennett, Gabriele Ferri

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Visible mending is increasingly recognized as both a functional and creative craft practice and a form of material intelligence, where knowledge emerges through tactile engagement. This paper adds an additional layer that visible mending in community, where the act of mending is also visible, functions as a materially grounded practice of ongoing care through which knowledge and learning are distributed across people, textiles, and time. Drawing on a multi‑sited qualitative study, including a nine‑month global mending cohort, a visible mending workshop, and interviews with experienced menders, the paper examines how care aesthetics helps clarify the social and epistemic dimensions of …

Shaped Circular Knitting For Zero Waste Design: A Material-Driven Approach To Knitted Textile-Forms, Sem Janssen, Holly Mcquillan

Textile Intersections Conference Series

While 3D knitting is proposed as part of a solution to the fashion industry's waste problem, circular knitting is primarily used in wasteful cut-and-sew manufacturing processes and is rarely explored for its shaping potential. Using material-driven design, this research investigates the dimensional and material properties of knit stitch patterns within defined rectangular artworks, enabling the shaping of circular knitted textiles for zero-waste design. To exemplify this approach, we developed a design method that addresses several aspects of the shaping process, highlighting the possibilities for zero-waste shaping and exploring potential applications. Finally, we discuss the implications, limitations, and opportunities of shape-change …

Threading The Line: Switchboard Labor, Bodily Knowledge, And The Textile Traditions Of Telephone Operating, Yuhanxiao Ma

Textile Intersections Conference Series

This paper positions telephone switchboard operating as a textile tradition in the full disciplinary sense: a practice organized around embodied skill, the transmission of bodily knowledge through community, and the production of relational connection as material output. Drawing on feminist labor history, textile theory, and Daniela Rosner’s framework of critical fabulation, it argues that the systematic erasure of switchboard labor by electromechanical automation constitutes a form of textile loss: one structurally identical to the suppression of feminized craft work in computing history. The paper then presents the design logic of This Is Vera, Hold Please, a performance installation in development …

Opportunities And Challenges Of Toolpath-Based 3d Printed Textiles: Insights From Digital Design And Craft Course, Yoav Sterman

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Advances in additive manufacturing (AM), particularly Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), have introduced new possibilities for textile and fashion design through toolpath-based fabrication. This paper examines the opportunities and challenges of 3D-printed textiles, drawing on insights from five iterations of a Digital Design and Craft course, in which 101 students designed and produced wearable artifacts using computational workflows. This paper examines students’ projects, analyzes application types, discusses assembly techniques and post-processing strategies, and highlights how traditional textile manufacturing inspires the toolpath structures. The paper further discusses the opportunities of 3D printed toolpath-based textiles, such as supporting sustainability and enhancing personalization through …

Textile Intersections 2026: Material Intelligence Exhibition Catalogue, Afroditi Psarra, Liza Stark, Sasha De Koninck, Larissa Kunstel-Tabet, Katharina Sand

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Catalogue of the Textile Intersections 2026 exhibition, Material Intelligence, presenting textile design research that explores intelligence through material behaviour, textile structures, more-than-human agency, material cycles, computation, craft and material commons.

Finding The Numinous: An Ecocritical Look At “Dune” And “The Lord Of The Rings” (2025), By Willow Wilson Dipasquale, Douglas Charles Kane

Journal of Tolkien Research

Book review, by Douglas Charles Kane, of Finding the Numinous: An Ecocritical Look at “Dune” and “The Lord of the Rings” (2025), by Willow Wilson DiPasquale

Lesson Plan: What Is Mei?, Jennifer Jolley

Open Educational Resources

This lesson plan provides background on the Music Encoding Initiative (MEI) and the process for converting digital .wav files from the Deborah Pacini Hernandez Bachata Music Collection housed at the CUNY Dominican Studies Institute to .mei using the application Sonic Visualizer.

A Philosophy Of Travel: Lonergan's Transcendental Method Applied To The Experience Of Not Belonging, Andrew Brei

San Jose - Lonergan Chair in Catholic Philosophy

Travel can be an exhausting thing, offering little time for reflection. Often, traveling involves a dizzying assortment of steps: we book flights, pack bags, find accommodations, and move through unfamiliar streets in search of “the sights.” Less often do we stop to ask what we are actually doing when we do this—what cognitive and existential work travel involves. This essay takes up that question by borrowing the structure of Bernard Lonergan’s transcendental method, the four-level account of human cognition and action that runs from experience through understanding and judgment to decision. Lonergan’s method is not a set of external rules …

Mentorship As A Catalyst For Change Readiness: A Qualitative Study Of How Effective Mentoring Mitigates Burnout And Turnover During Organizational Transformation, Jeffery M. Camp

Journal of Online Mentoring

This qualitative study examined how effective mentorship mitigates burnout and attenuates turnover intention during organizational change, foregrounding the perspectives of experienced mentors. Drawing on Biggs’s presage–process–product (PPP) model, data were collected through semi-structured interviews (n = 12) and two focus group discussions (n = 6 each), engaging 18 unique mentors employed in organizations with 1,000 or more employees. Thematic analysis following Braun and Clarke’s six-phase protocol yielded four themes: (1) mentorship as strategic facilitation of organizational change; (2) mentorship as provision of emotional and psychological support; (3) empowering mentees through relationship-building; and (4) applying adaptive and reflective strategies. …

Navigating Predominantly White Institutions: A Narrative Inquiry Restorying Native American And Indigenous Students' Lived Experiences Of Higher Education, Chandra Anderson

Doctor of Education Program Dissertations

Previous research has examined retention rates of Native American and Indigenous students within the United States in higher education; however, there remains a significant narrative silence regarding the lived stories and personal chronologies of these students (Brayboy et al., 2015; Davidson & Lopez, 2023; Oxendine et al., 2018). The purpose of this qualitative narrative inquiry was to elicit and restory the lived narratives of Native American and Indigenous students enrolled in predominantly White institutions (PWI) of higher education. This study’s literature review themes include: (a) history of Native American and Indigenous students, (b) contemporary research on Native American and Indigenous …

From Source And Summit To Parish Practice: A Qualitative Analysis Of Eucharist And Social Outreach, Erik Sorensen S.J.

Journal of Global Catholicism

A small-scale qualitative study in a Catholic parish situated in Ottawa, Canada, offers insights into the complex relationship between that community's worship and its commitment to social justice. This article brings the lived theology of this community into dialogue with the academic and magisterial perspectives on the Eucharist as the source and summit of Christian life. The dialogue is framed by the Theological Action Research Network's four voices of theology: operant, espoused, formal, and normative. This framework helps to center the marginalized theology of the faithful in the pews. In this case, the parish offered a dynamic theology of welcome …

The Lived Liturgical Experience Of Non-Catholic Participants In The Roman Catholic Mass: Tactical Ecumenism In Overlapping Ritual Systems, Sarah Kathleen Johnson

Journal of Global Catholicism

In religiously diverse social contexts, liturgical practices anchored in one reli-

gious tradition often gather diverse communities. In such contexts, it is wise to

assume that people who are not Catholic may be present at any Roman Cath-

olic Mass. This article explores the lived liturgical experience of non-Catholic

Christians who participate routinely in the Roman Catholic Mass through a

mixed-methods study of a religiously diverse treble vocal ensemble that sings

weekly at Mass on a Catholic university campus. It describes how Catholic and

non-Catholic Christian singers interpret practices surrounding the eucharistic

meal in contrasting ways: non-Catholic Christians experience the …