Physical Sciences and Mathematics Commons^™

Spot1328 Meira Spit, Robert C. Mahon, Elizabeth J. Trower, Benjamin P. Smith, Tyler A. Lincoln, Juliana Olsen-Valdez, John S. Magyar, Cedric J. Hagen

2D Wave Spectral Data, South Arm, Great Salt Lake, Utah

Data in this folder are produced by a SoFarOcean Spotter wave buoy deployed along the south arm of the Great Salt Lake, near Antelope Island State Park from the period of July 13, 2021 through June 28, 2022, in relatively shallow water, approximately 1.6m.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Water depths for #1328 (Miera Spit) started at ~1.7 m, but dropped rapidly to 0.9 m on July 15, 2021 and dropped further to ~0.4 m on August 17, 2021. The timing of these rapid water depth changes matches the timing of buoy location changes when the anchor was dragged inshore by waves. When …

Spot1356 Black Rock Derived Data, Robert C. Mahon, Elizabeth J. Trower, Benjamin P. Smith, Tyler A. Lincoln, Juliana Olsen-Valdez, John S. Magyar, Cedric J. Hagen

2D Wave Spectral Data, South Arm, Great Salt Lake, Utah

Data in this folder are produced by a SoFarOcean Spotter wave buoy deployed along the south arm of the Great Salt Lake, near Antelope Island State Park from the period of July 13, 2021 through June 28, 2022, in relatively shallow water, approximately 1.6m.

Spot1356 Black Rock, Robert C. Mahon, Elizabeth J. Trower, Benjamin P. Smith, Tyler A. Lincoln, Juliana Olsen-Valdez, John S. Magyar, Cedric J. Hagen

2D Wave Spectral Data, South Arm, Great Salt Lake, Utah

Data in this folder are produced by a SoFarOcean Spotter wave buoy deployed along the south arm of the Great Salt Lake, near Antelope Island State Park from the period of July 13, 2021 through June 28, 2022, in relatively shallow water, approximately 1.6m.

Spot1328 Meira Spit Derived Data, Robert C. Mahon, Elizabeth J. Trower, Benjamin P. Smith, Tyler A. Lincoln, Juliana Olsen-Valdez, John S. Magyar, Cedric J. Hagen

2D Wave Spectral Data, South Arm, Great Salt Lake, Utah

Data in this folder are produced by a SoFarOcean Spotter wave buoy deployed along the south arm of the Great Salt Lake, near Antelope Island State Park from the period of July 13, 2021 through June 28, 2022, in relatively shallow water, approximately 1.6m.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Water depths for #1328 (Miera Spit) started at ~1.7 m, but dropped rapidly to 0.9 m on July 15, 2021 and dropped further to ~0.4 m on August 17, 2021. The timing of these rapid water depth changes matches the timing of buoy location changes when the anchor was dragged inshore by waves. When …

Quantifying Channel Change Following Post-Fire Debris Flows In A Steep, Coastal Stream, Big Sur, California, Telemak Olsen

WWU Graduate School Collection

Debris flows commonly occur following wildfire in steep landscapes, introducing large volumes of sediment to downstream fluvial systems. Fire-related sediment supply perturbations impact channel morphology, and importantly, fragile aquatic and riparian ecosystems downstream of disturbance. The Big Creek watershed drains 57 km² of steep chaparral and coast redwood forest along California’s Central Coast. Streams in the Big Creek watershed typically exhibit step-pool/cascade morphology and serve as vital spawning habitat for anadromous Steelhead Trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss). In 2020, 97% of the Big Creek watershed burned in the Dolan Wildfire. In January 2021, an atmospheric river event triggered a series of …

Factors Controlling Longshore Variations Of Beach Changes Induced By Hurricane Hermine Along Pinellas County Beaches, West-Central Florida, Wenhan Zhai

USF Tampa Graduate Theses and Dissertations

Hurricane Hermine, 2016, impacted the coast of west-central Florida and generated high waves superimposed on elevated wave levels which caused significant beach erosion. A total of 122 profiles, spaced about 300 m apart, were surveyed 2 weeks before and one week after the storm to examine the beach changes along three barrier islands along the coast of west-central Florida. including Sand Key, Treasure Island and Long Key. In order to investigates the longshore variations of beach/nearshore changes induced by storm, several parameters were defined and calculated including beach volume changes, berm height, beach width, foreshore slope, as well as sandbar …

Fine Grained Delta Front Sediment Transport, Sarah Noel

University of New Orleans Theses and Dissertations

Insights into transformative coastal processes are unlocked though understanding sediment transport mechanisms in fine-grained delta front environments. Movement of fine-grained sediments on delta fronts is not wholly explained through advection settling models. While advection settling models generally assume deposition into a still body, numerical modeling of sediment re-entrainment suggests there may be tidal, wave, and/or non-steady hydrograph influences allowing particles to reach greater distances by altering the decelerating velocity field. This research explores both an advection settling model and a mass conservation Rouse profile model to understand the irreducible delta front processes controlling sediment deposition. Using field data collected on …

The Morphodynamic Interaction Of River Deltas And Their Marshes, Kelly M. Sanks

Graduate Theses and Dissertations

Globally, many of the largest river deltas contain vast marsh platforms that are currently threatened due to a combination of anthropogenic alterations to rivers and increasing relative sea level rise. Restoration and management plans for river deltas depend on optimizing riverine sediment accumulation in marsh platforms. However, the accumulation of organic material in marsh platforms is often neglected in predictive models and the interaction of ecogeomorphic processes governing marsh accumulation with the physical processes governing river delta growth is poorly understood.

Herein, I investigate this complex relationship through a combination of field and experimental studies. I show that in coastal …

Sedimentary Processes Influencing Divergent Wetland Evolution In The Hudson River Estuary, Kelly Mckeon

Masters Theses

Consistent shoreline development and urbanization have historically resulted in the loss of wetlands. However, some construction activities have inadvertently resulted in the emergence of new tidal wetlands, with prominent examples of such anthropogenic wetlands found within the Hudson River Estuary. Here, we utilize two of these human-induced tidal wetlands to explore the sedimentary and hydrologic conditions driving wetland development from a restoration perspective. Tivoli North Bay is an emergent freshwater tidal marsh, while Tivoli South Bay is an intertidal mudflat with vegetation restricted to the seasonal growth of aquatic vegetation during summer months. Using a combination of sediment traps, cores, …

Boulders As A Lithologic Control On River And Landscape Response To Tectonic Forcing At The Mendocino Triple Junction, Charles Shobe, Georgina Bennett, Gregory Tucker, Kevin Roback, Scott Miller, Joshua Roering

Faculty & Staff Scholarship

Constraining Earth’s sediment mass balance over geologic time requires a quantitative understanding of how landscapes respond to transient tectonic perturbations. However, the mechanisms by which bedrock lithology governs landscape response remain poorly understood. Rock type influences the size of sediment delivered to river channels, which controls how efficiently rivers respond to tectonic forcing. The Mendocino triple junction region of northern California, USA, is one landscape in which large boulders, delivered by hillslope failures to channels, may alter the pace of landscape response to a pulse of rock uplift. Boulders frequently delivered by earthflows in one lithology, the Franciscan mélange, have …

Field Measurements Of Bed-Load Transport Distances Using Painted Sediment Tracers In An Urban Stream In The Missouri Ozarks, Kristen E. Breckenridge

MSU Graduate Theses

Predictions of bed-load mobility and transport in stream channels are useful for restoration and management purposes. This study uses native gravel tracers to determine transport distances for bed-load in an urban stream in the Ozark Highlands. The objectives of this project are to: (i) determine downstream transport distances of painted tracers of different sizes over a range of flow conditions; (ii) evaluate the influence of channel morphology and thalweg location on transport; and (iii) compare field results to those predicted by mobility equations. The study site is located on South Creek, which drains Springfield, Missouri. The study reach is 132 …

Probability Distributions Of Particle Hop Distance And Travel Time Over Equilibrium Mobile Bedforms, Robert C. Mahon, Ashley C. Thomas, Suleyman Naqshband, Kate C. P. Leary, Brandon Mcelroy

Earth and Environmental Sciences Faculty Publications

The joint probability distribution of streamwise particle hop distance, lateral particle hop distance, and travel time constrains the relationships between topographic change and sediment transport at the granular scale. Previous studies have investigated the ensemble characteristics of particle motions over plane bed topography; however, it is unclear whether reported distributions remain valid when bedforms are present. Here, we present measurements of particle motion over bedform topography obtained in a laboratory flume and compare these to particle motions over plane bed topography with otherwise similar conditions. We find substantial differences in particle motion in the presence of bedforms that …

Wave Runup And Morphologic Change On A Mixed-Sediment Beach In The Salish Sea, Wa, Avery Maverick

WWU Graduate School Collection

A primary threat to coastal regions is extreme water levels from tides, storm surges, and waves which drive coastal evolution. Predicting wave runup, the vertical extent of wave uprush on a beach above still water level, and the morphologic responses to storms within the Salish Sea is complex because of the high variability of shoreline exposure to waves and wind, morphology, coastal landforms, and tide range across the region. As part of a USGS study, this project was designed to assess how wave energy offshore drives runup, validate existing runup models (van der Meer, 2002; Stockdon et al., 2006; Didier …

Tracking Sediment Bypassing, Geomorphological Analysis, And Regional Sediment Management At Tidal Inlets, Tanya M. Beck

USF Tampa Graduate Theses and Dissertations

Tidal inlets on sandy shorelines separate barrier islands and serve as a conduit for transport of sand and water between embayments and oceans, seas, or other tidally influenced waterbodies. Tides and waves induce currents along the coastline that transport sediment across-shore and alongshore. Coastal managers must optimize barrier-inlet system stability while conserving limited sediment resources, and often base management decisions and engineering design upon geomorphic and numerical models that predict the morphological behavior of tidal inlets on short-to-medium timescales (years to decades). The overall goal of this study was threefold. First, to provide science-based practical guidance for regional sediment management …

Particle Size Specific Magnetic Properties Across The Norwegian‐Greenland Seas: Insights Into The Influence Of Sediment Source And Texture On Bulk Magnetic Records, Robert G. Hatfield, Benjamin H. Wheeler, Brendan T. Reilly, Joseph S. Stoner, Bernard A. Housen

Geology Faculty Publications

We make fundamental observations of the particle size variability of magnetic properties from 71 core tops that span the southern Greenland and Norwegian Seas. These data provide the first detailed regional characterization of how bulk magnetic properties vary with sediment texture, sediment source, and sediment transport. Magnetic susceptibility (MS) and hysteresis parameters were measured on the bulk sediment and the five constituent sediment particle size fractions (clay, fine silt, medium silt, coarse silt, and sand). The median MS value of the medium silt size fraction is ~3–5 times higher than that of the sand and clay size fractions and results …

Comparison Of Beach Changes Induced By Two Hurricanes Along The Coast Of West-Central Florida, Ruoshu Zhao

USF Tampa Graduate Theses and Dissertations

The beach profiles pre-and post-the Hurricane Hermine (2016) and Irma (2017) along the Sand Key barrier island were collected to quantify longshore variations in storm induced beach changes as well as to compare the beach changes caused by hydrodynamic conditions of the two different hurricanes.

Cross-shore beach profile are examined in 4 sections including dune field, dry beach, sand bar and whole beach to calculate beach change. The volume change for each section and shoreline contour change before and post the hurricane was computed. Hydrodynamic conditions were obtained from adjacent NOAA’s tide and wave gauges.

Both hurricanes generated high offshore …

Hydrodynamic Controls On The Morphodynamic Evolution Of Subaqueous Landforms, Timothy L. Nelson

University of New Orleans Theses and Dissertations

The southern Chandeleur Islands are an ideal setting to study shoal evolution given their history of submergence and re-emergence. Here, numerical models shed light on the attendant processes contributing to shoal recovery/reemergence following a destructive storm event. Simulations of a synthetic winter storm along a cross-shore profile using Xbeach shows that convergence of wave-induced sediment transport associated with repeated passage of cold-fronts initiates aggradation, but does not lead to reemergence. A Delft3d model of the entire island chain shows that as these landforms aggrade alongshore processes driven by incident wave refraction on the shoal platform, backbarrier circulation and resulting transport …

Investigation Of Sediment Ridges Using Bathymetry And Backscatter Near Clearwater, Florida, Lewis Stewart

USF Tampa Graduate Theses and Dissertations

Changes in sediment morphology on the West Florida Shelf is investigated over a 14-year time period using multibeam bathymetry and backscatter in water depths between 10 m and 20 m, off the coast of Indian Rocks Beach, Pinellas County, Florida. Bathymetric surveys collected in 2002 (Kongsberg EM 3000 at 300 kHz) and 2016 (Reson 7125 at 400 kHz) were processed using CARIS Hips and Sips to create bathymetric maps and backscatter images. These data were then interpreted and compared in order to test hypotheses and answer questions related to sediment migration and sediment volume change.

The following questions prompted this …

Validating A Universal Model Of Particle Transport Lengths With Laboratory Measurements Of Suspended Grain Motions, Robert C. Mahon, Brandon Mcelroy, Suleyman Naqshband

Earth and Environmental Sciences Faculty Publications

t The mechanics of sediment transport are of fundamental importance for fluvio-deltaic morphodynamics. The present study focuses on quantifying particle motions and trajectories across a wide range of flow conditions. In particular, a continuous model is presented that predicts particle travel distances for saltation and suspension based on Rouse number and relative grain roughness. By utilizing a series of eight video cameras in a plexiglass flume direct measurements of the distributions of particle travel distances (excursion lengths) were obtained. To this end, experiments were carried out in dark under black lights with fluorescent painted plastic and quartz sand particles. For …

Slope, Grain Size, And Roughness Controls On Dry Sediment Transport And Storage On Steep Hillslopes, Roman A. Dibiase, Michael P. Lamb, Vamsi Ganti, Adam M. Booth

Geology Faculty Publications and Presentations

Existing hillslope sediment transport models developed for low-relief, soil-mantled landscapes are poorly suited to explain the coupling between steep rocky hillslopes and headwater channels. Here we address this knowledge gap using a series of field and numerical experiments to inform a particle-based model of sediment transport by dry ravel—a mechanism of granular transport characteristic of steep hillslopes. We find that particle travel distance increases as a function of the ratio of particle diameter to fine-scale (1m) topographic variability associated with rocky landscapes. Applying a 2-D dry-ravel-routing model to lidar-derived surface topography, we show how spatial patterns of local and nonlocal …

Modern Fair-Weather And Storm Sediment Transport Around Ship Island, Mississippi: Implications For Coastal Habitats And Restoration Efforts, Eve Rettew Eisemann

Master's Theses

The Mississippi – Alabama barrier island chain is experiencing accelerated sea level rise, decreased sediment supply, and frequent hurricane impacts. These three factors drive unprecedented rates of morphology change and ecosystem reduction. All islands in the chain have experienced land loss on the order of hectares per year since records began in the 1840s. In 1969, Hurricane Camille impacted as a Category 5, breaching Ship Island, and significantly reduced viable seagrass habitat. Hurricane Katrina impacted as a Category 3 in 2005, further widening Camille Cut. To better understand the sustainability of these important islands and the ecosystems they support, sediment …

Stream Bank Erosion Trends And Sediment Contributions In A Southwestern Missouri River, Ezekiel Allen Kuehn

MSU Graduate Theses

Bank erosion can be a significant source of in-stream sediment that negatively affects water quality and aquatic habitat. However, assessments of the role that eroding banks play in suspended and bed sediment supply are rarely available to managers. The purpose of this study was to quantify bank erosion rates for a 7 km conservation easement the James River in southwest Missouri to evaluate the annual contributions of bank sediment to the channel. The objectives were to: (1) monitor an eroding 260 m bank to better understand short-term, reach scale bank erosion rates; (2) determine historical rates of bank erosion for …

Topographic Signatures And A General Transport Law For Deep-Seated Landslides In A Landscape Evolution Model, Adam M. Booth, Joshua J. Roering, Alan W. Rempel

Geology Faculty Publications and Presentations

A fundamental goal of studying earth surface processes is to disentangle the complex web of interactions among baselevel, tectonics, climate, and rock properties that generate characteristic landforms. Mechanistic geomorphic transport laws can quantitatively address this goal, but no widely accepted law for landslides exists. Here we propose a transport law for deep-seated landslides in weathered bedrock and demonstrate its utility using a two-dimensional numerical landscape evolution model informed by study areas in the Waipaoa catchment, New Zealand, and the Eel River catchment, California. We define a non-dimensional landslide number, which is the ratio of the horizontal landslide flux to the …

Particle Transport Over Rough Hillslope Surfaces By Dry Ravel: Experiments And Simulations With Implications For Nonlocal Sediment Flux, Emmanuel Gabet, Morgan Mendoza

Faculty Publications

Past studies of hillslope evolution have typically assumed that soil creep processes are governed by a linear relationship between local hillslope angle and transport distance. The assumption of “linear diffusion” has fallen out of favor because, when coupled with an expression of mass continuity, it yields unrealistic hillslope profiles. As a consequence, a better understanding of the mechanics of sediment transport is needed. Here we report results from a series of flume experiments performed to investigate sediment transport by dry ravel, a common soil creep process in arid and semiarid environments. We find that, at gentle slopes, transport distances follow …

Critical Thresholds For Sediment Mobility In An Urban Stream, Ross H. Martin

Geosciences Theses

Bed load transport measurements were made in a small urban stream in Decatur, GA, from which thresholds for motion were calculated using methodologies from the published literature. These methodologies are discussed in terms of their limitations and assumptions. Mobility frequencies were calculated for single grains of each grain size fraction to illustrate the transition from size selective transport to equal mobility. In general, urban streams behave differently than many gravel rivers in non-urban settings because of differences in the availability and character of sediment sources and altered flow hydrographs. This comparison allows for discussion about the way sediment is transported …

Paleotsunami Inundation Of A Beach Ridge Plain: Cobble Ridge Overtopping And Interridge Valley Flooding In Seaside, Oregon, Usa, Curt D. Peterson, Harry M. Jol, Thomas Horning, Kenneth M. Cruikshank

Geology Faculty Publications and Presentations

The Seaside beach ridge plain was inundated by six paleotsunamis during the last ∼2500 years. Large runups (adjusted >10m in height) overtopped seawardmost cobble beach ridges (7m elevation) at ∼1.3 and ∼2.6 ka before present. Smaller paleotsunami (6−8m in height) likely entered the beach plain interior (4-5m elevation) through the paleo-Necanicum bay mouth. The AD 1700 Cascadia paleotsunami had a modest runup (6-7mheight), yet it locally inundated to 1.5 km landward distance. Bed shear stresses (100−3,300 dyne cm−2) are estimated for paleotsunami surges (0.5−2m depths) that flowed down slopes (0.002−0.017 gradient) on the landward side of the cobble beach ridges. …

Analysis Of Channel Networks And The Potential For Sediment Transport In The Vicinity Of The North Polar Seas Of Titan, Richard Cartwright

Geosciences Theses

This study analyzes the available radar evidence in order to describe the morphology of channel networks around the north polar seas of Titan. Critical flow depths necessary to entrain water-ice grains, and denudation rates for a north polar channel network are discussed. The results indicate that channel networks on Titan have similar morphologies to channel networks cut by water on Earth. We also find that water-ice sediment should be readily entrained in the headwaters and downstream sections of the analyzed Titanian basin, given sufficient flow depths of liquid hydrocarbons. Also, the importance of slope and the elevated topography of the …

Influences Of Channel Dredging On Flow And Sedimentation Patterns At Microtidal Inlets, West-Central Florida, Usa, Tanya M. Beck, Ping Wang

Geology Faculty Publications

Four inlets (Johns Pass and Blind Pass; and New Pass and Big Sarasota Pass) in two multi-inlet systems along the West-central Florida coast were studied. Johns Pass, New Pass, and Blind Pass are dredged every 4-9 years, whereas Big Sarasota Pass has never been dredged. The goal of this study was to investigate the morphodynamics of the four inlets and the influences of channel dredging on the flow patterns over the ebb tidal delta and sediment bypassing. Time-series aerial photographs and bathymetric maps starting from the 1920s were analyzed to assess the pathways of sand bypassing and morphodynamics at the …

Beach Profile Evolution Under Plunging And Spilling Breakers, Ping Wang, Bruce A. Ebersole, Ernest R. Smith

Geology Faculty Publications

Beach-profile evolution, along with measurements of waves, currents, and sediment concentration, under spilling and plunging breakers of similar height were studied in the three-dimensional Large-Scale Sediment Transport Facility at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Unidirectional irregular waves were generated over a fine-sand beach. Beach-profile shape reached equilibrium after 1,330 and 280 min of spilling and plunging wave actions, respectively. Near the main breaker line, the profile evolved differently under plunging and spilling breakers. Across most of the midsurf zone dominated by surf bores, the equilibrium profile shapes were similar. Uniform energy dissipation per unit volume at equilibrium, …

Longshore Sediment Transport As A Function Of Energy Dissipation, Ernest R. Smith, Ping Wang

Geology Faculty Publications

Experiments to measure waves, currents, and sediment transport rate for two breaker types, plunging and spilling, were conducted in a large-scale three-dimensional physical model. It was found that there was a large difference in cross-shore distribution and total sediment transport rate between the two breaker types. Total transport rates compared to existing predictive equations. The equations generally did not predict the data well. With the exception of the Kamphuis (1991) equation, which included a dependence on wave period, the predictive equations did not differentiate between breaker types.