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Reproducing Laboratory-Scale Rip Currents On A Barred Beach By A Boussinesq Wave Model, Ke-Zhao Fang, Ji-Wei Yin, Zhi-Li Zou, Zhong-Bo Liu, Ping Dong

Journal of Marine Science and Technology

The pioneering work of Haller [8] on physically investigating bathymetry-controlled rip currents in the laboratory is a standard benchmark test for verifying numerical nearshore circulation models. In this paper, a numerical model based on higher-order Boussinesq equations was developed to reproduce the number of experiments involved in such an investigation, with emphasis on the effect of computational domain size on the numerical results. A set of Boussinesq equations with optimum linear properties and second-order full nonlinearity were solved using a higher-order finite difference scheme. Wave breaking, moving shoreline, bottom friction, and mixing were all treated empirically. The developed model was …