Art and Design Commons^™

Heritage, Tradition, And Craft In Quiltmaking (Fa 1131), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1131. Collection contains Interviews, photographs, and informant data sheets relating to Sandy Staebell's project with quiltmakers in Allen County and Monroe County, Kentucky and Macon County, Tennessee for the 2017-2018 Osby Lee Hire and Lillian K. Garrison Hire Memorial Lecture Series.

Ohio River Survey (Fa 656), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 656. Kentucky Folklife Program project titled: “Ohio River Survey,” which includes interviews, tape logs, photographs and other documentation of folklife along the Ohio River in Illinois, Indiana and Kentucky. Interviews may include a description of belief, traditional occupation, practice, craft, or tool, informant’s name, age, birth date, and address.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 30:2 — Fall 2018, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Letter from the Editor

Letter from the President

TSA News
Welcome New TSA Board Members
Our Focus on Diversity: Vision Statement
R. L. Shep Ethnic Textile Book Award
Diedrick Brackens Honored with 2018 Brandford/Elliott Award

International Report
Featured Exhibitions
Centre for Heritage, Arts and Textile (CHAT)
Opportunity
The University of North Texas to Close Fibers Program by Spring 2019

TSA Symposium
The Social Fabric: Deep Local to Pan Global in pictures
TSA Members' Exhibition
Reports from Student & New Professional Awardees

A Long-Delayed Professional Conversation

Book Reviews
Art, Honor, and Ridicule: Fante Asafo Flags from Southern Ghana
Polychromatic Screen Printing …

Rawlins, Arline Mclean (Perkins), 1899-1962 (Mss 647), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

MSS Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Manuscripts Collection 647. Material about the hooked rug designs created and executed by Arline McLean (Perkins) Rawlins of Bowling Green, Kentucky. Includes correspondence, published and unpublished articles, and photographs

Stranded Cellular Automaton And Weaving Products, Hao Yang

Mathematical Sciences Technical Reports (MSTR)

In order to analyze weaving products mathematically and find out valid weaving products, it is natural to relate them to Cellular Automaton. They are both generated based on specific rules and some initial conditions. Holden and Holden have created a Stranded Cellular Automaton that can represent common weaving and braiding products. Based on their previous findings, we were able to construct a Java program and analyze various aspects of the automaton they created. This paper will discuss the complexity of the Stranded Cellular Automaton, how to determine whether a weaving product holds together or not based on the automaton and …

Richardson, Laura Elizabeth (Ferguson), 1908-1986 (Mss 645), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

MSS Finding Aids

Finding aid and full text scans of correspondence in box one (Click on the "Additional Files" below for Manuscripts Collection 645. Letters, photographs, and research notes belonging to quilt collector Laura Elizabeth Richardson. Includes letters and research materials from noted quilt authority Florence Peto.

Powell, Steve (Fa 1195), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1195. Student paper titled “Quilting for Frugality” in which Steve Powell interviews close family members and friends about their experiences with quilt making. Powell offers a brief biographical background on each informant along with individual motivations and inspirations for crafting quilts. The paper includes color photographs of various types of quilting patterns and one sample of a quilting square.

Jarvis, Brenda (Fa 1199), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1199. Student paper titled “The Quilting Art” in which Brenda Jarvis interviews her mother, Jane Jarvis, about her experiences related to crafting quilts. The author provides a biographical summary of her mother and describes her early forays into quilt making. Jarvis also describes the social aspects of quilting, patterns as a reflection of certain lifestyles, the process of quilt construction, and the materials necessary to complete the final product. Included in the paper are color photographs of various quilting styles along with samples of quilting handiwork.

Morris, Brenda (Fa 1166), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1166. Student paper titled “Quilting” in which Brenda Morris explains the process of piecing together a quilt. Morris, who worked directly with long-time quilter Oma Grant, includes step-by-step instructions along with photographs at various stages throughout the course of crafting. Also included are design patterns and completed samples of handiwork.

Clarke, Mary Louise (Washington), 1913-1999 (Mss 634), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

MSS Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Manuscripts Collection 634. Research, correspondence and photographs relating to the scholarly study of Kentucky author Jesse Stuart by WKU English and folklore professor Mary (Washington) Clarke. Includes correspondence with Stuart, editors and other scholars in connection with her book Jesse Stuart’s Kentucky and other publications. Also includes research and correspondence relating to Clarke’s book Kentucky Quilts and Their Makers.

Soheila Azadi Interview, Jillian Bridgeman

Asian American Art Oral History Project

Artist Bio: Soheila Azadi is an interdisciplinary visual artist and lecturer based in Chicago and Iran. Born in the capital of Islamic cities, Esfahan, Azadi absorbed story-telling skills through Persian miniature drawings since she was nine. Azadi’s inspirations come from her experiences of being a woman while living under Theocracy. Now residing in the U.S. Azadi is dedicated to transnational feminism with a passionate devotion to the ways in which race, religion, gender, sexuality, and ethnicity intersect. Azadi uses performance art and performative installations as methods to both materialize and narrate stories about women’s everyday struggle in the world. Her …

Los Productos Textiles De Los Andes Sur-Centrales: Guía Ontológica Centrada En La Región Aymara-Hablante, Denise Y. Arnold

Textile Research Works

El presente libro ofrece una organización ontológica de los productos textiles andinos. A nivel mundial, los museólogos están dando cuenta de la utilidad de este recurso para estructurar sus colecciones de objetos y para vincularlas con datos de respaldo (registros, catálogos, dibujos, fotos, etc.). Una ontología es una especificación explícita de una conceptualización, que proporciona una estructura y los contenidos que codifican las reglas implícitas de una parte de la realidad, en este caso del dominio textil. Aquí presentamos una representación del conocimiento del dominio textil centrada en las ‘formas’ textiles, por decir los tipos de prendas (ahuayo, acso, unco, …

Hoyt, Roy (Fa 1145), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1145. Student paper titled “Upholstery – A Folk Occupation” in which Roy Hoyt speaks with Frank Black, a resident of Burgin, Kentucky and “the last of the true ‘tufters’ in his portion of Kentucky.” In the interviews conducted by Hoyt, Black, who had been a craftsman for more than three decades, details the tools, materials, and processes used to upholster furniture. The paper also includes occupational anecdotes and color photographs of Black’s workshop, machines, and finished products.

How To Be The Perfect Asian Wife!, Sophia Hill

Art and Art History Honors Projects

“How to be the Perfect Asian Wife” critiques exploitative power systems that assault female bodies of color in intersectional ways. This work explores strategies of healing and resistance through inserting one’s own narrative of flourishing rather than surviving, while reflecting violent realities. Three large drawings mimic pervasive advertisement language and presentation reflecting the oppressive strategies used to contain women of color. Created with charcoal, watercolor, and ink, these 'advertisements' contrast with an interactive rice bag filled with comics of my everyday experiences. These documentations compel viewers to reflect on their own participation in systems of power.

Battle Of The Washita: Swosu Libraries Honor 150th Anniversary, April Miller

Faculty Articles & Research

SWOSU Libraries, the Art Department, and the Washita Battlefield National Historic Site Joined forces in 2017 to host a four-part workshop titled: Make Your Own Moccasins with Southwestern Cheyenne Artists, George Levi, and Creg Lee Hart. Due to Dr. Peters hard work, a grant was received from the Oklahoma Arts Council to pay for the majority of the supplies needed for attendees to make their own moccasins.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 30:1 — Spring 2018, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Letter from the Senior Editor

Letter from the Editor

Letter from the President

TSA News:
From the Nomination Committee
Slate of Candidates

TSA "Meet Up" at the Textile Museum, Washington, DC

R. L. Shep Ethnic Textile Book Award 2017 Nominees

Textile Society of America 30th Anniversary
A Personal Connection to TSA

Call for Submissions: Textile Month

RE: Gender Bend: Women In Wood, Men at the Loom

Coping with the Perils from Apparel

Book Reviews
Women Artisans of Morocco: Their Stories Their Lives
From Tapestry to Fiber Art: The Lausanne Biennials, 1962-1995
Inside the Royal Wardrobe: A Dress History of Queen …

Nicks, Sarah Elizabeth (Fa 1132), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1132. Student paper titled “Quilting: Past and Present” in which Sarah Nicks details the components of traditional quilt making. Nicks discusses piecing together patterns and the various motivations behind quilting. Information was collected by Nicks from family and friends. The collection contains color photographs of handmade quilts, a questionnaire related to quilting practices, and a sample piece of a quilt patch.

Processing The Theresa-India Young Papers: A Research Inventory Grant Project, Meghan Bailey

Joseph P. Healey Library Publications

The University Archives and Special Collections department in the Joseph P. Healey Library at UMass Boston was awarded a Research Inventory Grant from Mass Humanities in June 2017. This allowed us the opportunity to devote a significant amount of time and resources to acquire, arrange, and describe the papers of noted Boston fiber artist, educator, and artist activist, Theresa-India Young. View the finding aid for the Theresa-India Young papers here. An exhibit showcasing materials from the collection is planned for June 2018 at the Grossmann Gallery in the Joseph P. Healey Library. The following is a presentation that describes …

Cederquist, Nancy (Fa 378), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

FFinding aid and full-text scan of paper (Click on “Additional Files” below) for Folklife Archives Project 378. Multiple interviews with Mrs. James Hall conducted by Nancy Cederquist on 22 February 1985, 1 April 1985, and 22 April 1985. Hall, a resident of Bowling Green, discusses her passion for quilting, her preferred patterns, fabric care, and her experiences with a local quilting group.

Effect Of Knit And Print Parameters On Peel Strength Of Hybrid 3-D Printed Textiles, Ayushi Narula, Christopher M. Pastore, David Schmelzeisen, Sara El Basri, Jan Schenk, Subin Shajoo

Kanbar College Faculty Papers

The influence of knit fabric structure on the adhesion of three-dimensional (3-D) printed textiles was examined. 3-Dprinting was applied to different elastic knitted fabrics with different amounts of prestretch, typical for 4-D fabric construction. The quality of the bond was measured in terms of peel strength. Peel strength was measured by pulling the fabric at 180 degrees from the printed plastic to delaminate the 2 and recording the 10 highest peak values observed during the test. The printed width, the ratio of fabric width of print width, fabric washing, and fabric structure were varied. The specimens were then evaluated for …

Chilean Arpilleras: Writing A Visual Culture, R. Darden Bradshaw

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper highlights a recent inquiry into the contemporary visual culture of the Chilean arpillera from a cross-global perspective. This art form derived from political, social, and economic conditions of the times yet contemporary manifestations do not address these origins. Arpilleras, historically created in the home and sewn by hand, are constructions in which bits of discarded cloth and burlap were used to compose pictorial narratives. The art form arose in Chile during a period of intense political oppression. This manifestation of women’s fiber art has and continues to serve as both seditious and reconstructive forms of visual culture. While …

The Future Of Textiles: Disruption And Collaboration, Susan Brown, Matilda Mcquaid, David Breslauer, Suzanne Lee, Anais Missakian, Abby-George Erikson, Salem Van Der Swaagh

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The textile field, while not “local” in the geographic sense, is a community: a group of people with a shared language, history, and practices that date back thousands of years. As deeply-rooted as those materials and practices are, textiles is also an area that has historically experienced enormous disruptions due to changing technology and globalization. In the 21^st century, we are undergoing something like a second Industrial Revolution. Advances in digital and robotic technologies and shifting labor markets are driving a revolution in where and how things are made. Global climate change, lack of food security for much of …

Whitework: The Cloth And Call To Action, Sonja Dahl

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In the newly independent colonies of the American Northeast, styles of white-on-white quilting and embroidery became popular among women coming of age. Considered the epitome of their needleworking skills, whitework required patience, time, focus, precision, and a steady hand. Such detailed stitchwork on pure white cotton-then a booming industry in the American South-prepared these young women to make homes that were meaningful, full of symbolism and care. Drawing analogy between these historic textiles and current movements for decolonization and anti-racism, this talk expands the term Whitework to function as a call to action, for both myself and other white-identified scholars …

Shipibo-Conibo Textiles 2010-2018: Artists Of The Amazon Culturally Engaged, Nancy Gardner Feldman

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper considers the intersection of processes of making and cultural memory as contemporary Shipibo artists design, produce, and exchange of their contemporary textiles and art. One sees a continuation of traditional collaborative social networks both in Peru’s deep Amazon region and in new Shipibo communities of Pucallpa and Lima. In cities, they create new artistic networks and expressions of art in ceremony. In these artworks, one sees how Shipibo relationship to the natural world, the forest, plants, animals, and waters reflects deep spiritual beliefs, wisdom, and community knowledge. Shipibo communities in 2017 face ever-expanding challenges from intrusions into their …

A Virgin Martyr In Indigenous Garb? A Curious Case Of Andean Ancestry And Memorial Rites Recalled On A Christian Body, Gaby Greenlee

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The notion of “social fabric” has deep resonance in the Andes, where woven textiles have long been entwined with gestures of political alliance, marriage, or rituals marking key transitions in the life cycle. Within the life cycle pre-Conquest, what is more, textiles were heavily implicated in that most poignant of transitions-from life to death. Yet in the Andes, death did not remove one from the life cycle. The deceased remained present and active participants in communal life, seen as potent advocates for the next generation, consulted as oracles, and regularly re-dressed in traditional woven textiles. After the Spanish-Catholic conquest, however, …

Threads, Twist And Fibre: Looking At Coast Salish Textiles, Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Coast Salish textiles are: remarkable for their quality; unusual in the fibres used; notable in their designs; singular in the innovative processes used to manufacture them. Salish textiles were determined by geography, shaped by trade, and influenced by colonization. That the textile tradition has survived is a reflection of the prestige they hold and the importance of the textiles in the Coast Salish culture. Relatively unknown and underappreciated, the older textiles deserve to be looked at with fresh eyes and modern methods that bring to light the outstanding abilities of the Coast Salish women in the creation of these important …

Shepherds And Shawls: Making Place In The Western Himalayas, Jennifer Hoover

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Cars weave through the flocks of the Gaddi shepherds as they travel from the plains to high altitude deserts, winding along roads lined with shops selling Kullu shawls. In these ways and more, textiles are the face of the northern Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. Yet dominant discourses position both the shepherds and weavers of the region as the last hold-outs of endangered traditions. These discourses continue colonial-era assumptions of rural artisans as “primitives” in need of either protection from encroaching industrialization or motivation to modernize. Academic writings, popular visual representations, and government policies also reinforce monolithic identities of herders …

Kasb-E-Hunar (Skilled Enclave), Adil Iqbal

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Kasb-e-Hunar (Skilled Enclave) is a sensory film showing a visual documentation of Shu (woolen cloth) making a short interviews with an elderly artisan community for the village of Madaklasht. It invites the audience to engage with the past and present and seeks to provoke conversations about the future and the responsibilities we have, given past mistakes. The film was made over three weeks of anthropological fieldwork in Shishi Koh Valley, Chitral, Northern Pakistan. The film investigates the cultural significance of woolen craft skills, exploring memories relating to handiwork, and the challenges of globalization. It shows the value of traditional skills …

Weaving Authenticity: Artesanías Or The Art Of The Textile In Chiapas Mexico, Addison Nace

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

During my six months in Chiapas, I worked for the weaving cooperative Mujeres Sembrando la Vida (MSV), a partner organization to Natik. Natik works with grassroots organizations in Mexico and Guatemala with a focus on economic development and education. MSV is a cooperative of sixty women weaving from the municipality of Zinacantán1 founded by Doña Magdalena and currently run by her two daughters Yoli and Xunka. Zinacantán is a Tzotzil Mayan village in the highlands of Chiapas, Mexico. Chiapas has the highest population of indigenous people and is also the poorest state in Mexico with a poverty rate of 75.7 …

Ties That Bind: Finding Meaning In The Making Of Sacred Textiles, Janet Pollock

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

I was a novice weaver when I began constructing a Rakusua-Buddhist ceremonial garment-as an initiation into a spiritual community in my hometown. Years later, in the Jewish Museum in Amsterdam, I was drawn to an early 19^th century Tallit Katan, a ritual silk undergarment that had been made for a Jewish poet who later converted to Christianity. I had just inherited my father-in-law’s prized collection of silk neckties. He was a troubled man who had embraced his faith late in life. Those ties became the weft for three works-a handwoven tallit, a woven timeline, and a small keepsake for …