Art and Design Commons^™

Review Of: Australian Rock Art: A New Synthesis, Paul Faulstich

Pitzer Faculty Publications and Research

Rock-art studies have now come of age, and are among the most fertile explorations of expressive culture. Through an interdisciplinary approach to its study, we have expanded our knowledge into the realms of aesthetics, belief systems, and social structures. Australian rock an is particularly significant, since it is a visual expression that has been practiced by contemporary as well as prehistoric Aboriginals. Robert Layton's most recent book -his "new synthesis" of Australian rock art- is an ambitious and successful analysis of Aboriginal rock art from across the continent.

Gloria Patri, Gender, And The Gulf War: A Conversation With Mary Kelly, James Castonguay, Amelie Hastie, Lynne Joyrich, Christopher Lane, Kathleen Woodward

Communication, Media & The Arts Faculty Publications

Mary Kelly's gallery size installation, entitled Gloria Patri, was first shown at the Herbert F. Johnson Museum, Cornell University in 1992. Gloria Patri focuses on the issues of heroism, mastery, and war within the context of a pathologized masculinity; that is, on the identification by both men and women with masculine ideals of mastery, domination, and control, and their simultaneous physical and psychological collapse. This crisis of masculine mastery is set against the backdrop of the Persian Gulf War.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 6:17 – Fall 1994

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Our New President: Mattiebelle Gittinger
Expanding TSA Membership Goals
Board of Directors
Letter from the President
Symposium Highlights
Special Interest Group Meetings in Los Angeles
Letter from the Editor
Announcements
Calls for Papers
Electronic Communication
National Museum of the American Indian
Pacific Textile Arts
The Medieval Dress and Textile Society
Complex Weavers
Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science
Positions Available
Study Tour to Morocco
Travel
Study Tour to Japan
Weaving Tour of Bolivia
Lectures/Symposia/Conferences/Seminars
Exhibitions- Past, Present, and Future

An Investigation Of Small Apparel Retailers’ Definition Of Customer Satisfaction Using A Naturalistic Approach, Sandra L. Cardillo

Open Access Master's Theses (through 2010)

This study uses an inductive research design to approach customer satisfaction from the perspective of the small apparel retailer. Social exchange theory served as a theoretical framework. The small apparel retailers interviewed in this study had businesses in non-metropolitan communities located in counties with an agricultural, trade, or diversified economic base. Using a qualitative methodology, hypotheses were generated for future study of small apparel retailers’ definition of customer satisfaction. The work done in this study proposes that customer satisfaction, from small apparel retailers’ perspective is a dynamic, multidimensional process requiring the constant evaluation of exchanges that take place between the …

Caid Currents: The State Of Caid Art, Del Coates

Faculty Publications

No abstract provided.

Beyond Memos: A Journal Of The Umf Faculty, Volume 6, Spring 1994, University Of Maine At Farmington

Beyond Memos: A Journal of the UMF Faculty

Beyond Memos is meant to be just that - a forum where UMF faculty can share ideas and creative work that go beyond the day-to-day campus routine of teaching, advising, committees, and memos.

Conservation Of Textile Items, Shirley Niemeyer, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

Textile heirlooms and keepsakes require special care to preserve them for future use. Conserving textile keepsakes and heirlooms involves an understanding of light, temperature, humidity, insects, storage, display, and cleaning.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 6 – Spring 1994

Textile Society of America Newsletters

TSA’s Fall Symposium
Letter from the President
1994 Nominees Approved by the Board
In Memoriam
Letter from the Editor
Lillian Elliott: A Profile
Joanne Segal Brandford: A Profile
Announcements
Calls for Papers
Memorial Fund Established
Symposia/Conferences/Seminars – Past/Present/Future
The Eastern Region’s Late Spring Tour of the Renwick Gallery’s Exhibition of Contemporary Navajo Weaving
TSA Bibliography Announced

Table Of Contents - Contact, Crossover, Continuity - 1994

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Table of contents from Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings of the Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, September 22–24, 1994

Discussion Of "Textile Transformations And Cultural Continuities In West Africa", Christopher B. Steiner

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

I have divided my discussion of these papers into two parts. First, I would like briefly to address each of the papers individually—highlighting what I find to be some of the most important issues raised by each. And second, I would like to put forth two dichotomies—(1) regarding the relationship between the sacred and the profane, and (2) on the relationship between aesthetic value and commercial value—both of which strike me as critical organizing principles that join these four papers [those of Judith Byfield, Kathleen Bickford, Lisa Aronson, and Elisha Renne and Joanne Eicher in this proceedings] into a coherent …

Green Labels With Golden Elephants: Western European Printed Cottons For Malaysia And Indonesia, Frieda Sorber

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In the second half of the 19th century, several Belgian cotton printing firms were involved in the production of imitations of African and Southeast Asian textiles for markets in West-Africa, the Dutch East Indies, and Malaysia. Extensive records of one firm, the Societe Anonyme Texas, owned by the Voortman family in Ghent, have been preserved in the Ghent public records office and the Vrieselhof Textile Museum (Oelegem, near Antwerp). Frans de Vos and Abraham Voortman started a cotton printing establishment in Ghent in 1790. At that time cotton printing was a relatively new type of enterprise in Flanders. The first …

Bolong-Bolong And Tirtanadi: An Unknown Group Of Balinese Textiles, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff, Monika Palm-Nadolny

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

On late 19th- and early 20th-century photographs, South and East Balinese people clad in traditional adat wardrobe for rituals, temple ceremonies, and dances often wear transparent, netlike open-work textiles as breastcloth (anteng), shouldercloth (cerik) girdle (selendang), or headcloth (destar, lelunakan). Information given by elderly Balinese concerning the situation before World War II confirm their use as part of their ceremonial wardrobe but also as important items in offerings and rituals. Such textiles could be laid over several fabrics, covering the body of a toothfiling candidate, or serve as curtains (langse …

From The Ancestors Or The Portuguese: Exotic Textiles In Flores And The Solor Archipelago, Robyn Maxwell

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Throughout the eastern Indonesian island of Flores and the neighbouring Solor archipelago, village treasuries usually contain considerable numbers of highly valued textiles and some items of costume. These consist predominantly of important local products clearly made within the particular village or district.

Other heirloom textiles have been acquired from outside the local regions in the distant or not-so-distant past. These exotic heirlooms are often awarded a special place in the hierarchy of textiles found throughout Flores, Solor, and Lembata and, where possible, examines local histories and myths associated with the origins of particular objects or types of cloth.

Further, an …

Market Effects On The Design And Construction Of Carpets In The Milas Region Of Southwestern Turkey, 1963–1993, Charlotte A. Jirousek

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Beginning in 1964 my husband and I were involved in the development of a village carpet weaving cooperative in Southwestern Turkey. We lived with the weavers of Çömlekçi from 1964 to 1966, as part of the first Peace Corps rural community development program in Turkey. Between 1966 and 1969 we continued to work with the cooperative in its efforts to develop markets and quality control standards while working as Peace Corps staff. Since leaving Turkey in 1969, I have visited Çömlekçi periodically, most recently in 1992 and 1994.

The success of the Çömlekçi cooperative in tum generated carpet cooperatives throughout …

Anni Albers: Pre-Columbian Resonances: The Significance Of Pre-Columbian Art In Her Textiles And Writings, Virginia Gardner Troy

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Anni Albers is known primarily for her contribution to the Bauhaus Weaving Workshop and her woven prototypes for industrial production; she has rarely been acknowledged for her role in reviving and redefining the Pre-Columbian fiber art tradition. She researched, analyzed, collected, and extensively wrote about Pre-Columbian textiles. Her seminal text, On Weaving, 1965, is not only dedicated to Andean weavers, "my great teachers, the weavers of ancient Peru," but is essentially a textbook of Andean weaving techniques, revived and meticulously analyzed by Albers. Furthermore, she and her husband, Josef Albers, amassed an important collection of ancient Mesoamerican sculpture, acquired …

Dressing The Part: Indigenous Costume As Political And Cultural Discourse In Peru, Katharine E. Seibold

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In Latin America, indigenous clothing has often been equated with indigenous cultural identity. When we speak of indigenous fashion as being a marker of cultural identity, we must also examine the more fluid roles of the indigenous individual and community within the state. How is individual, community, and state identity represented? What form does the discourse between the individual, the community, and the state take? Many anthropologists have written of the flexible and strategic use of ethnicity, and costume as a primary tool in the manipulation of ethnic identity. Indigenous, handwoven dress legitimates community as well as ethnic group membership …

Continuum...The History Of The Department Of Art At The University Of Tennessee, Knoxville, Sam Yates, Dale G. Cleaver, Donald Kurka, Norman Magden

Faculty Catalogues

Faculty members: Sandra Blain, Michael Brakke, Sally Brogden, Richard Daehnert, James F. Darrow, Joe Falsetti, Marcia Goldenstein, William C. Kennedy, Baldwin Lee, Richard J. LeFevre, Whitney Leland, Philip Livingston, Pam Longobardi, Beauvais Lyons, Norman Magden, Susan E. Metros, Philip Nichols, Dennis Peacock, Thomas J. Riesing, Cary Staples, F. Clark Stewart, David Wilson, Dorothy Metzger Habel, Timothy W. Hiles, Fred H. Martinson, Frederick C. Moffatt, Amy L. Neff, and Sam Yates.

Design Education And The Quest For National Identity In Late Imperial Russia: The Case Of The Stroganov School, Wendy Salmond

Art Faculty Articles and Research

Traces the history of the Russian arts and crafts school in Moscow, from its prehistory (1825-1859) as a drawing school founded by Count Sergei Stroganov, through the directorships of Victor Butovsky and Nikolai Globa, to the years after 1917 when the school was subsumed into the VHUTEMAS. Explores the theories of design and craft taught at the school, and the art nouveau-like style developed there in the later years of the 19th c.

0596: C. Clifford Caverlee Collection, 1895-1981, Marshall University Special Collections

Guides to Manuscript Collections

The collection consists of two boxes containing 12 three-ring notebooks, a third box containing file folders of postmarks and envelopes from states other than West Virginia, also two scrapbooks containing other postmarked envelopes. The bulk of the collection consists of 12 three-ring notebooks containing postmarks and postcards of West Virginia towns and post offices. These notebooks are organized by West Virginia county. Many of the postmarks are on the complete, original envelope, but many have been cut off the envelopes. The postcards fall into three classes: plain blank postcards with just a postmark, holiday or greeting postcards, and the scenic …

Characters: Portraits By Robert Weaver, George W. Neubert

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

character n -S 1: a distinctive differentiating mark: ... d: a conventionalized figure, representation, or expression ... 2: CHARACTERISTIC: as a 0): one of the essentials of structure, form, materials, or function that together make up and usually distinguish the individual: any feature used to separate distinguishable things (as organisms) into categories ... (3): the aggregate of distinctive qualities characteristic of a breed, strain, or type b: the complex of accustomed mental and moral characteristics and habitual ethical traits marking a person, group, or nation or serving to individualize it c: main or essential nature esp. as strongly marked and …

Steinbeck's Portraits Of Prostitutes: Progression Of An Author's Vision, Rhonda Jenkins

Mahurin Honors College Capstone Experience/Thesis Projects

No abstract provided.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 6:15 – Winter 1994

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Technical Issues
Fiber Identification
Letter from the President
In Memoriam
Letter from the Editor
Travel
Announcements
Calls for Papers
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Wanted: Saris to Photograph
Lectures, Workshops & Classes
Fellowships, Grants, Internships
People
Exhibitions
Membership Information
Symposia/Conferences/Seminars – Past/Present/Future
The Eastern Region’s Late Spring Tour of the Renwick Gallery’s Exhibition of Contemporary Navajo Weaving
TSA Bibliography Announced

Preface - Contact, Crossover, Continuity - 1994, Louise W. Mackie, Patricia R. Anawalt

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Inc., was hosted by the Fowler Museum of Cultural History, University of California, Los Angeles, California, September 22–24, 1994. The papers addressed a broad theme which was chosen in order to accommodate the diverse interests of members. The proceedings contains the thirty papers and two abstracts of papers presented at the symposium, plus a video script, and a list of the two hundred and forty participants.

Contact, Crossover, Continuity highlights the causes and effects of change on textiles around the world. The proceedings provides an opportunity to identify and evaluate …

Technology And Change: The Incorporation Of Synthetic Dye Techniques In Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria, Judith Byfield

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In the oriki (appellations) of an 18th-century oba (king) in Okuku, references to cloth and indigo were included in the verses that attested to the oba's wealth and greatness,

Abioye, my father, Olugbola, one who takes the image and all its children to dance

The beauty of cloth dyed in indigo does not fade

Adewale, the indigo is what gives the cloth its worth

The references suggestively point to the aesthetic as well as commercial value of indigo in Yoruba society. Scholars and travelers have long noted the importance of indigo dyed cloth in Yoruba society, and Yoruba women, the …

Akwete-Igbo Weavers As Entrepreneurs And Innovators At The Turn Of The Century, Lisa Aronson

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In his discourse on trade commodities, Igor Kopytoff argues that commodities assume what he calls a "cultural biography" through which one sees "the social system and the collective understanding on which it rests" (Kopytoff, 1986:89). What Kopytoff means by this is that commodities take on a life of their own based on the social and economic factors that have come to affect them. This paper will address the "cultural biography" of cloth in Southeastern Nigeria from its origins through trade to its various levels of assimilation both in use and production.

The biography discussed in this paper reaches an important …

Wreath And Cap To Veil And Apron: American Modification Of A Slavic Ritual, Patricia Williams

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores a wedding custom practiced for more than one hundred years in the Chicago area by the descendants of Czech, Polish, and Slovak immigrant women. Through the custom's existence and perpetuation in America, the role of a transitional rite of passage is chronicled in both the process of assimilation and the preservation of ethnic heritage. The original textile symbols used in the ritual were modified to reflect the differences in culture in the United States but with the "echoes" of European folk tradition still heard. Chicagoans today have continued to modify the custom as the role of women …

The Conversion Of Chinese Court Robes Into Japanese Festival Hangings, Gloria Granz Gonick

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Decorated silken robes historically worn in China to garb the emperor and his family were disassembled and resewn in Japan into hangings for Kyoto's Gion Festival during the 16th to 18th centuries. The twenty robes, which were converted into coverings for festival carts called yama and hoko, include silk tapestry weaves (kesi), brocades, and embroidered examples. Eleven date from the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) and nine from the early to mid Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). This distribution contrasts with other world collections of Chinese imperial robes, in which Qing Dynasty examples are far more numerous. In addition to the …

Micronesian Textiles In Transition: The Woven Tol Of Kosrae, Ann Deegan, Ross Cordy

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper presents findings on the major steps in the transition of the Kosraen tol from traditional clothing, to tourist souvenir, to the end of tol manufacture. An extensive study of the German, French, and English literature of the 19th and 20th centuries was done to piece together the history of the Kosraen tol.

The island of Kosrae, located in the Pacific (4–10°N latitude, 140–163°E longitude), is part of the Federated States of Micronesia. Since earliest European contact it has seen numerous changes in its traditional culture. One of its most beautiful and complex traditional crafts is the woven …

The "Severed Shroud": Local And Imported Textiles In The Mortuary Rites Of An Indonesian People, Penelope Graham

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores the significance of local and imported textiles as these interact forming complex categories in the mortuary rites of the Lamaholot-speaking people of the traditional district Lewolema in eastern Flores, Indonesia. Within this regional framework, my account draws primarily on field work in the village of Lewotala. There a person's physical demise elicits diverse social and ritual practices, depending on the deceased's achievements during his or her lifetime and the circumstances surrounding the death. As regards the mortuary sequence that commonly occurs, I will argue that various uses of cloth for exchange purposes mark both the severence—consequent on …

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: The Emergence And Development Of The Two Basic Lace Techniques, Santina Levey, Milton Sonday

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

According to the present understanding of the term, lace is a soft pliable fabric, most often white, with a pattern composed of solid and open areas, made either with a needle and thread in a looped structure or with a variable number of threads wound on bobbins and interlaced in a form of braiding. Laces matching that description survive from the mid 17th century onward, with some needle and bobbin-made examples that at first glance appear indistinguishable. Yet each of these totally unrelated techniques has its own history. The purpose of our project is to trace how it happened that …