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Full-Text Articles in Art and Design
Craftivism And Cottonian Bindings: “The Handiwork Of Greta Hall”, Helen Williams
Craftivism And Cottonian Bindings: “The Handiwork Of Greta Hall”, Helen Williams
Criticism
Edith Southey, Edith May Southey, and Sara Coleridge Jr. covered Robert Southey’s books in vibrantly printed dress fabrics, creating a collection that came to be called “the Cottonian Library.” This article is a manifesto for Cottonian bookbinding to be studied as feminist literary activism. It argues for the importance of looking beyond the book trades to the domestic and unremunerated ways in which women contributed to Romantic period book design, suggesting that the new feminist Craftivism can prompt us to historicize and to acknowledge the significance of Cottonian bookbinding as a practice that cannot be omitted from any history of …
The Making Of Everyday Hollywood: 1930s Film Influence On Everyday Women’S Fashion In Nebraska, Anna Naomi Kuhlman
The Making Of Everyday Hollywood: 1930s Film Influence On Everyday Women’S Fashion In Nebraska, Anna Naomi Kuhlman
Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research
This research examines the influence of film fashions on middle-class, Nebraskan women’s dress during the Great Depression (1932-1940). The Great Depression challenged the middle class: while standards of living remained high, the economic means to achieve those standards diminished. Despite the crisis, women strove to keep up with current fashion trends. While previous literature has examined how Hollywood directly affected trends and styles of the 1930s in major American metropolitan contexts, the manifestation of trends in the dress of middle to lower socio-economic classes in Middle America remains under-examined. Against the backdrop of Depression-era hardships specific to Nebraska’s agricultural economy, …
Atlantic Legacies: Free Women Of Color And The Changing Notions Of Womanhood In The Long Nineteenth Century, Marie Stephanie Chancy
Atlantic Legacies: Free Women Of Color And The Changing Notions Of Womanhood In The Long Nineteenth Century, Marie Stephanie Chancy
FIU Electronic Theses and Dissertations
This dissertation focuses on three free-born African-descended women who defied expectations and prejudices to live previously unthinkable lives in the nineteenth century. The project uses their biographies to illustrate how, as black and mixed-ancestry émigrés from the Americas living in Europe, they adopted and adapted the evolving notions of ideal womanhood. As a result they expanded who could be identified as a true, redemptive or new woman. The project shows how they used the tenets of these ideals to live life on their terms. The dissertation is set in an era dominated by white males, and defined by the enslavement …
Sins Against Our Soles: The Morality And Hygiene Of Nineteenth-Century Women's Shoes, Nicole Rudolph
Sins Against Our Soles: The Morality And Hygiene Of Nineteenth-Century Women's Shoes, Nicole Rudolph
Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research
Our understanding of the Victorian woman has long centered around the idea of the “Angel in the House,” made famous by Coventry Patmore’s 1854 poem. This mythical ideal to which a middle-class woman should endeavor can be found in endless numbers of nineteenth-century texts and has become an oft-referenced concept in modern historiography. Representations of the attributes of the ideal woman circulated widely in society, pictured in etiquette books, medical journals, and especially advertisements. They were an ever-present reminder to women of the social norms governing their roles and life trajectories. As consumers, women were responsible for the presentation of …
Progressive Commemoration: Public Statues Of Historical Women In Urban American Cities, Melanie D. Chin
Progressive Commemoration: Public Statues Of Historical Women In Urban American Cities, Melanie D. Chin
Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects
Women who made notable accomplishments are underrepresented in commemoration. Some American cities have brought women to the forefront of becoming visible through commemoration in statues. This thesis compares the commemoration of historical women in four different American cities. Stakeholders hold the key to implementing and changing public policy to increase the visibility of women and people of color in public monuments. Cities which lack representation of women and people of color may learn from and follow the efforts of a leading city to achieve lasting and effective change in representing those who historically been underrepresented.
Pilihan Kata Dan Konstruksi Perempuan Sunda Dalam Majalah Manglè: Kajian Linguistik Korpus Diakronik, Susi Yuliawati, Rahayu Surtiati Hidayat, F X. Rahyono, Deny A. Kwary
Pilihan Kata Dan Konstruksi Perempuan Sunda Dalam Majalah Manglè: Kajian Linguistik Korpus Diakronik, Susi Yuliawati, Rahayu Surtiati Hidayat, F X. Rahyono, Deny A. Kwary
Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya
Gender identity, one of the most important social categories in people’s lives, is socially constructed, and language is claimed to have a significant role in constructing the gender identity. This paper studies the construction of Sundanese women through five Sundanese nouns referring to women found in the corpus of Manglè magazine, published between 1958–2013. The research employs a mixed-method design in which quantitative analysis is combined with qualitative analysis to investigate how the nouns referring to women are used to construct Sundanese women from the periods of Guided Democracy (1958–1965) to Reform Era (2004–2013). The quantitative analysis is used to …
French Women In Art: Reclaiming The Body Through Creation/Les Femmes Artistes Françaises : La Réclamation Du Corps À Travers La Création, Liatris Hethcoat
French Women In Art: Reclaiming The Body Through Creation/Les Femmes Artistes Françaises : La Réclamation Du Corps À Travers La Création, Liatris Hethcoat
Student Scholar Symposium Abstracts and Posters
The research I have conducted for my French Major Senior Thesis is a culmination of my passion for and studies of both French language and culture and the history and practice of Visual Arts. I have examined, across the history of art, the representation of women, and concluded that until the 20th century, these representations have been tools employed by the makers of history and those at the top of the patriarchal system, used to control women’s images and thus women themselves. I survey these representations, which are largely created by men—until the 20th century. I discuss pre-historical …
Dress And Womanhood Of Ancient Rome, Eliza Burbano
Dress And Womanhood Of Ancient Rome, Eliza Burbano
Honors Theses
Fashion transcends its own role of imagery, as it becomes the medium through which individuals express their place in society. Fashion history would not consider the ancient world as part of the history of the discipline. Nevertheless, the function of dress in ancient cultures like that of Rome has definitely helped shape social hierarchies that are still present today. Clothing structured Roman society deeply, just as class, race, and sexuality did. Scholar Kelly Olson (2002) defines the function of clothing as part of a sign system. This study argues that dress in ancient Rome goes beyond this idea, in that …
Magic As A Form Of Oppression Towards Women: Gender Ideology In Maleficent (2014), Thalia Shelyndra Wendranirsa
Magic As A Form Of Oppression Towards Women: Gender Ideology In Maleficent (2014), Thalia Shelyndra Wendranirsa
Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya
Previous studies propose that female protagonists in Disney movies are represented based on gender construction that causes oppression towards women, but in 2014, Disney produces Maleficent which offers different characterization and theme opposing the aforementioned gender construction. By focusing on its different female main character and theme, this paper aims to see what kind of oppression occurs and how Disney presents their gender ideology in the movie. The findings reveal that even though Maleficent is portrayed as a powerful woman, she is also oppressed. Her magical power becomes a trigger of her oppression since men consider Maleficent’s power as a …
Evolution Of Fashion: Clothing Of Upper Class American Women From 1865 To 1920, Lacey Johnson
Evolution Of Fashion: Clothing Of Upper Class American Women From 1865 To 1920, Lacey Johnson
Honors Theses
Changing economic, political and social pressures throughout history have impacted the way human beings live their daily lives. One of the many basic areas affected by these historical changes is the area of the wardrobe. The way a person dresses has traditionally shown his or her social status, occupation, and even political views. Political and social pressure particularly influence the clothing styles favored by women. In what way, however, does the average wardrobe reflect the cultural considerations of the time, and what can the prevailing fashions of bygone eras reveal about the pressures of those days? Specifically, what do the …
A Memory Forgotten: Representation Of Women And The Washington D.C. Arsenal Monument, Melissa Sheets
A Memory Forgotten: Representation Of Women And The Washington D.C. Arsenal Monument, Melissa Sheets
School of Art, Art History, and Design: Theses and Student Creative Work
The Arsenal Monument in the Congressional Cemetery in Washington D.C. commemorates the twenty-one women who died while working as cartridge makers in the Washington Arsenal on June 17th, 1864. It utilizes both traditional and idealized memorial imagery, represented by an allegorical figure of Grief who stands atop the Monument’s shaft, as well as a realistic representation of the Arsenal explosion carved into the base. Erected only a year after the incident, the Monument can be interpreted as commemorating all twenty-one women by the inclusion of their names on the sides of the base. From this listing of names and the …
Mirror Of Culture: The Study Of A Nineteenth-Century Sewing Diary, Elizabeth M. Dellabadia
Mirror Of Culture: The Study Of A Nineteenth-Century Sewing Diary, Elizabeth M. Dellabadia
Senior Honors Projects
Hidden inside the library of the American Textile History Museum in Lowell, Massachusetts is wonderful resource for the study of late nineteenth-century America. When Ann Eliza Cunningham was middle aged, she compiled a sewing diary that included scraps of material from dresses she wore or China trade fabrics brought home by her father. Ann Eliza not only included assorted swatches; but she associated the fabrics with different events in her life. She includes swatches from dresses she wore on her wedding day in 1856, for Thanksgiving, and for various family celebrations like birthday parties. Similar to the work of a …
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 46, No. 1, Jean-Paul Benowitz, John Lowry Ruth, Paula T. Hradkowsky, Monica Mutzbauer
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 46, No. 1, Jean-Paul Benowitz, John Lowry Ruth, Paula T. Hradkowsky, Monica Mutzbauer
Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine
• The Mennonites of Pennsylvania: A House Divided
• "Not Only Tradition, but Truth": Legend and Myth Fragments Among Pennsylvania Mennonites
• Mennonite Women and Centuries of Change in America
• "It is Painful to Say Goodbye": A Mennonite Family in Europe and America
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 45, No. 1, Joan Saverino, Joseph Bentivegna, Nicholas V. De Leo, Catherine Cerrone, Janet Theophano
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 45, No. 1, Joan Saverino, Joseph Bentivegna, Nicholas V. De Leo, Catherine Cerrone, Janet Theophano
Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine
• "Domani Ci Zappa": Italian Immigration and Ethnicity in Pennsylvania
• A Study of the San Cataldesi Who Emigrated to Dunmore, Pennsylvania
• A Look at the Early Years of Philadelphia's "Little Italy"
• "An Aura of Toughness, Too": Italian Immigration to Pittsburgh and Vicinity
• Expressions of Love, Acts of Labor: Women's Work in an Italian American Community
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 43, No. 3, Thomas E. Gallagher Jr., Elaine Mercer, Kenneth E. Kopecky, Eric O. Hoiberg, Gertrude E. Huntington, Marilyn E. Lehman, Samuel S. Stoltzfus, William B. Fetterman, Bernadette L. Hutchison, John W. Friesen
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 43, No. 3, Thomas E. Gallagher Jr., Elaine Mercer, Kenneth E. Kopecky, Eric O. Hoiberg, Gertrude E. Huntington, Marilyn E. Lehman, Samuel S. Stoltzfus, William B. Fetterman, Bernadette L. Hutchison, John W. Friesen
Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine
• The Old Order Amish
• Amish Quilts: Creativity Supported by Rules and Traditions
• Conflict: A Mainspring of Amish Society
• Occupational Opportunities for Old Order Amish Women
• The Amish Taboo on Photography: Its Historical and Social Significance
• Our Changing Amish Church District
• Images of the Amish on Stage and Film
• Amish Gardens: A Symbol of Identity
• The Myth of the Ideal Folk Society Versus the Reality of Amish Life
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 34, No. 1, Hans Trumpy, William T. Parsons, Marion Lois Huffines, Robert P. Stevenson, Jane Adams Clarke
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 34, No. 1, Hans Trumpy, William T. Parsons, Marion Lois Huffines, Robert P. Stevenson, Jane Adams Clarke
Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine
• American News in Eighteenth and Nineteenth Century Swiss Almanacs: An Overview
• The Stuff of Which Folksongs are Made: Dialect Poetry of Lina Somer (1862-1932)
• Word Gain and Loss in the English of the Pennsylvania Germans
• The Autograph Album: A Victorian Girl's Best Friend
• Cobwebs on My Mind: Untangling Family Relationships
• Aldes un Neies
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 28, No. 1, Martha B. Kriebel, William T. Parsons, Phyllis Vibbard Parsons, Antje Sommer, Judith E. Fryer
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 28, No. 1, Martha B. Kriebel, William T. Parsons, Phyllis Vibbard Parsons, Antje Sommer, Judith E. Fryer
Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine
• Women, Servants and Family Life in Early America
• "Be it Remembered that these Indentured Servants and Apprentices"
• Gute Socha fer Hame tzu Nemma
• Taufscheine: A New Index for People Hunters
• Aldes / Neies
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 7, 1972-1973, Betty Wiseman
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 7, 1972-1973, Betty Wiseman
Scrapbooks
Betty Wiseman graduated from Belmont College and began teaching health and physical education in 1966. She was the founder and coach of the Belmont women’s basketball team, the Rebelettes (now Bruins), in 1968. At the time, it was one of the first women’s collegiate teams in the southeast. She was inducted into the Belmont Athletics Hall of Fame in 1981. She was also inducted into the Tennessee Sports Hall of Fame in 2004. Wiseman coached the women’s team for 16 years (1968-1984) before moving into athletic administration at Belmont. She served as Assistant Athletics Director until her retirement in 2013. …
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 21, No. 1, Earl F. Robacker, Eleanor Fein Reishtein, Ronald L. Michael, C. Frances Berman, Maurice A. Mook, Don Yoder
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 21, No. 1, Earl F. Robacker, Eleanor Fein Reishtein, Ronald L. Michael, C. Frances Berman, Maurice A. Mook, Don Yoder
Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine
• The Fraktur of Monroe County
• Minutes of the West Grove Housekeepers Association as Source Material for Folklife Studies
• The Searight Tavern on the National Road: An Archaeological Study
• The "Brown Sugar" Game in Western Pennsylvania
• Bread Baking in Mifflin County, Pennsylvania: Commentary for the Documentary Film in the "Encyclopaedia Cinematographica"
• Notes and Documents: Literature for the Allegheny Frontier: The Huntingdon Literary Museum and Monthly Miscellany (1810)
• Hunting and Food-Gathering: Folk-Cultural Questionnaire No. 21
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 6, 1971-1972, Betty Wiseman
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 6, 1971-1972, Betty Wiseman
Scrapbooks
Betty Wiseman graduated from Belmont College and began teaching health and physical education in 1966. She was the founder and coach of the Belmont women’s basketball team, the Rebelettes (now Bruins), in 1968. At the time, it was one of the first women’s collegiate teams in the southeast. She was inducted into the Belmont Athletics Hall of Fame in 1981. She was also inducted into the Tennessee Sports Hall of Fame in 2004. Wiseman coached the women’s team for 16 years (1968-1984) before moving into athletic administration at Belmont. She served as Assistant Athletics Director until her retirement in 2013. …
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 5, 1971-1972, Betty Wiseman
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 5, 1971-1972, Betty Wiseman
Scrapbooks
Betty Wiseman graduated from Belmont College and began teaching health and physical education in 1966. She was the founder and coach of the Belmont women’s basketball team, the Rebelettes (now Bruins), in 1968. At the time, it was one of the first women’s collegiate teams in the southeast. She was inducted into the Belmont Athletics Hall of Fame in 1981. She was also inducted into the Tennessee Sports Hall of Fame in 2004. Wiseman coached the women’s team for 16 years (1968-1984) before moving into athletic administration at Belmont. She served as Assistant Athletics Director until her retirement in 2013. …
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 4, 1971-1972, Betty Wiseman
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 4, 1971-1972, Betty Wiseman
Scrapbooks
Betty Wiseman graduated from Belmont College and began teaching health and physical education in 1966. She was the founder and coach of the Belmont women’s basketball team, the Rebelettes (now Bruins), in 1968. At the time, it was one of the first women’s collegiate teams in the southeast. She was inducted into the Belmont Athletics Hall of Fame in 1981. She was also inducted into the Tennessee Sports Hall of Fame in 2004. Wiseman coached the women’s team for 16 years (1968-1984) before moving into athletic administration at Belmont. She served as Assistant Athletics Director until her retirement in 2013. …
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 3, 1970-1971, Betty Wiseman
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 3, 1970-1971, Betty Wiseman
Scrapbooks
Betty Wiseman graduated from Belmont College and began teaching health and physical education in 1966. She was the founder and coach of the Belmont women’s basketball team, the Rebelettes (now Bruins), in 1968. At the time, it was one of the first women’s collegiate teams in the southeast. She was inducted into the Belmont Athletics Hall of Fame in 1981. She was also inducted into the Tennessee Sports Hall of Fame in 2004. Wiseman coached the women’s team for 16 years (1968-1984) before moving into athletic administration at Belmont. She served as Assistant Athletics Director until her retirement in 2013. …
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 2, 1969-1970, Betty Wiseman
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 2, 1969-1970, Betty Wiseman
Scrapbooks
Betty Wiseman graduated from Belmont College and began teaching health and physical education in 1966. She was the founder and coach of the Belmont women’s basketball team, the Rebelettes (now Bruins), in 1968. At the time, it was one of the first women’s collegiate teams in the southeast. She was inducted into the Belmont Athletics Hall of Fame in 1981. She was also inducted into the Tennessee Sports Hall of Fame in 2004. Wiseman coached the women’s team for 16 years (1968-1984) before moving into athletic administration at Belmont. She served as Assistant Athletics Director until her retirement in 2013. …
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 1, 1968-1969, Betty Wiseman
Betty Wiseman's Scrapbook, 1, 1968-1969, Betty Wiseman
Scrapbooks
Betty Wiseman graduated from Belmont College and began teaching health and physical education in 1966. She was the founder and coach of the Belmont women’s basketball team, the Rebelettes (now Bruins), in 1968. At the time, it was one of the first women’s collegiate teams in the southeast. She was inducted into the Belmont Athletics Hall of Fame in 1981. She was also inducted into the Tennessee Sports Hall of Fame in 2004. Wiseman coached the women’s team for 16 years (1968-1984) before moving into athletic administration at Belmont. She served as Assistant Athletics Director until her retirement in 2013. …
Susan Virginia Eblen's Scrapbook 1942-1943, Susan Virginia Eblen
Susan Virginia Eblen's Scrapbook 1942-1943, Susan Virginia Eblen
Scrapbooks
Susan Virginia Eblen
Ethel Mary Schwartz's Scrapbook 1941-1942, Ethel Mary Schwartz
Ethel Mary Schwartz's Scrapbook 1941-1942, Ethel Mary Schwartz
Scrapbooks
Ethel Schwartz atended Ward-Belmont during the 1941-1942 school year.
Mattie Palmer's Scrapbook 1935-1937, Mattie Palmer
Mattie Palmer's Scrapbook 1935-1937, Mattie Palmer
Scrapbooks
Mattie Palmer attended Ward-Belmont during the 1935-1937 school years.
Charlotte Sanders 1928-1929, Charlotte Sanders
Charlotte Sanders 1928-1929, Charlotte Sanders
Scrapbooks
Charlotte Sanders attended Ward-Belmont during the 1928-1929 school years.
Elizabeth Igler's Scrapbook 1927-1928, Elizabeth Igler
Elizabeth Igler's Scrapbook 1927-1928, Elizabeth Igler
Scrapbooks
Elizabeth Igler (1910-1995) went to Ward-Belmont during the 1927-1928 school year. She received her law degree from the University of Cincinnati Law School, graduating in 1932. She would go on to have a splendid law career and was one of the few practicing female lawyers in Cincinnati in the 1930s. She clerked for the Honorable Howard Bevis, Justice of the Ohio Supreme Court and became the first Solicitor for the Village of Glendale in 1934. She married Lawson E. Whitesides in 1935. She was a member of the Ohio State Bar Association for almost 60 years.