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Officers; Events In 2016; Fellows & Members; Editor's Note, Stephen L. Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This content includes the front cover, the table of contents, a list of the Burgon Society's Officers, Burgon Society events of 2016, a list of Fellows & Members, and a note from the editor.

The Hitherto Unknown Source And Artist Of Oxford Academic Dress Engravings Identified, Alex Kerr

Transactions of the Burgon Society

A lawsuit in 1808 leads to evidence of the artist who created unpublished drawings intended for a lavish picture book.

Mckinlay’S People: A Study Of The Academic Dress Of The University Of Bradford, Peter William Clarke

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Introduction: On the morning of Friday, 19 February 1965, the Vice-Principal of the Bradford Institute of Technology, Robert McKinlay, and seven other members of the academic staff convened the first meeting of the Academic Dress Sub-Committee. This was the start of what was to be a year-and-a-half-long process of creating the academic dress of the institution.

Stitched Into History: A Brief Review Of Some Tailors’ Labels In Academic Dress, Stephen L. Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Introduction: What tales do tailors tell? In the cut of the clothes and the drape of the cloth are stories that come together like grammar and syntax to express the style of the person wearing them. Messages like these are seen from the outside. Your friends recognize you in your favourite blazer because when you wear it, the blazer becomes part of who you are.

Authors; Burgon Society On-Line Bibliography; Burgon Society Shop; Transactions Published On-Line For Researchers, Stephen L. Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This content includes a list of contributors authors for this volume, the Burgon Society On-line Bibliography, the Burgon Society Shop, and Transactions Published On-line for Researchers.

Dressing By Degrees: Academic Dress In British Columbia 1866–1966, John Lancaster

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Introduction: Before leaving his quarters at Fort Victoria in the recently established Colony of Vancouver Island on Sunday 18 March 1849, the Revd Robert John Staines took clerical vesture from his trunk. Yesterday, after a six-month journey from England, he came ashore from the Hudson’s Bay Company barque Columbia. Today his Sunday duties as Company Chaplain and Schoolmaster begin with the conduct of Divine Service. For his ministrations, he likely donned Anglican choir dress: cassock, surplice, scarf and his Cambridge BA hood.

Academic Dress In China From 1994 To 2011, Peter P.K. Chiu

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Introduction: This article reports the development of academic dress in China from the year 1994 to 2011. China has two self-governing special administrative regions (Hong Kong and Macau), and claims sovereignty over Taiwan; these three areas are not included in this study because the laws of China do not apply directly in them. As a result, academic dress in these areas has been influenced by different parts of the world.

Officers; Events In 2015; Fellows & Members; Editor's Note, Stephen L. Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This content includes the front cover, the table of contents, a list of the Burgon Society's Officers, Burgon Society events of 2015, a list of Fellows & Members, and a note from the editor.

How Academic Dress Is Mobilized In Degree Ceremonies And To What Effect, Sandra Wearden

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Academic dress is perceived by many to be fixed and unchanging, yet this study illuminated how rich, diverse, dynamic and changeable it can be. Using a socio-material approach called actor-network theory meant that the focus of attention in this study was on how academic dress was mobilized in relation to degree ceremonies and to what effect. By focusing on academic dress in this particular way, the aim was to highlight how academic dress contributed to making and shaping degree ceremonies.

This study found that academic dress generated similar and different effects across degree ceremonies held at different institutions, and concluded …

Authors; Burgon Society Shop, Stephen L. Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This content lists the authors' biographies and provides a list of items to purchase from the Burgon Society Shop.

A Portrait Of An Oxford Nobleman, Circa 1705, Bruce Christianson, Joan Kendall

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The clothing and style of wig in a portrait of an Oxford nobleman hanging in Hatfield House, Hertfordshire, make the captioned subject and artist questionable .

French Influence On The Dress Of Scottish Doctors Of Medicine, Jonathan C. Cooper

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Two paintings may show how sixteenth-century Parisian academical dress influenced that of King’s College, Aberdeen, in the seventeenth century.

The Iridescent Web: American Degree Colours (1895–1935), Kenneth L. Suit Jr

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Introduction: The general history of American academic dress has been extensively chronicled in the pages of this journal, but aside from noting that the faculty colours currently in use were added piecemeal during the hundred-odd years the 1895 Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume and the 1935 Academic Costume Code have been in force, a detailed study of these colours has not been made.

The Tradition Of Academic Costume At Acadia University, John N. Grant

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Introduction: In the history of post-secondary education in Canada, the creation of Acadia University in Wolfville, Nova Scotia, might appear to be part of the pattern of denominational colleges in Nova Scotia. More accurately, however, Acadia helped to establish that pattern. In 1838, despite the 1818 founding of Dalhousie University in Halifax, the University of King’s College (est. 1789) in Windsor was the only chartered institution of higher learning that was active in Nova Scotia.

The Church And The Trencher: An Examination Into How England’S Changing Theology And Church Have Influenced The Evolution And Design Of The Square Cap Causing Its Use As Academic Attire, Seamus Addison Hargrave

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Square academic caps, or ‘mortarboards’, as they are affectionately known, have declined in use remarkably since the 1940s, even compared to other academic items, like the gown and hood. Despite this, they remain one of the most iconic elements of academic dress, enjoying an evocative academical symbolism in most countries. The cap retains its current form in the changing modern world of academic dress (at least within the UK), whilst other components, like the hood, have continued to develop. [Excerpt].

The Academical Dress Of The Ionian Academy, 1824–1864, Jonathan C. Cooper

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The Ionian Academy was founded in 1824 at Corfu, then part of a protectorate of the British Empire. However, its academical dress bore little resemblance to that of British universities but, rather, was based upon the costume of Classical Greece, largely due to the influence of the first Chancellor, a notable philhellene. Context will be given through a brief consideration of the Protectorate and of the organizational structure of the University; an account of the first Chancellor will follow. We shall examine the classically inspired dress of students, graduates and university officers worn at the institution during its early years. …

The Centenary Eucharist And Presentation Of The Lambeth Diploma And Ma Degrees, Noel Cox

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Ten years ago, on Tuesday, 3 May 2005, I was privileged to attend the Centenary Eucharist and Presentation of the Lambeth Diploma and MA Degrees in the Lambeth Palace Chapel. Looking back, it was an occasion of great moment, not just for me personally. We were fortune that the date of our graduation coincided with the centenary of the creation of the Lambeth diploma, a qualification now superseded by the MPhil and PhD—and indeed the MA itself was also later to be phased out. [Excerpt].

The Development Of Academic Dress In China, Charles Ko Ka Shing

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This article includes a series of pieces on the themes of Chinese academic dress and on the topics of design, history and practice. It covers the motives leading to the development of academic regalia of modern Chinese tertiary institutions, the history and development of academic regalia in China, and how and why the design of academic regalia has changed from ancient China to today. China is a valuable research target as it has had periods of economic reform, a change of its political attitudes, and the establishment of Westernized and modernized degree system.

Officers; Events In 2014; Fellows & Members; Editor's Note, Stephen L. Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This content includes the front cover, the table of contents, a list of the Burgon Society's Officers, a list of Burgon Society events of 2014, a list of Fellows & Members, and a note from the editor.

The Introduction And Contemporary Practice Of Academical Dress In Japan, Jason T. Testar

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The history of the introduction, evolution and contemporary—albeit limited—practice of academical dress in Japan is a story that parallels the revolutionary changes which swept across the once feudal nation as it emerged into the twentieth century. In the clash of East and West that characterized the rise of modern Japan, the parallel story of academic dress is one which debunks the model notion that conventions of Westernization and the process of modernization are inextricably linked. Set apart from the conventions of popular fashion, academic dress in the West represents the highest scholastic achievement. However, prior to Western contact, the wearing …

Glasgow Gown With Three Bands On Each Sleeve, Neil K. Dickson

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In my history of the academic dress of the University of Glasgow I recorded that major changes to gowns and hoods took place in 1893. When the proposals for the various degrees were under consideration by a committee, the University Court instructed the committee to design a gown for its members. However no design appeared. In 1901 a new committee was appointed with the result that in 1902 the following design was approved: ‘a black doctor’s gown with collar and yoke and faced all with MA silk and with three bands of MA silk on each sleeve’. [Excerpt].

The Present And Future Of Academical Dress In Spain: Catalogue Of Guidelines On The Use Of Academical Dress And Its Colours In Spanish Universities, María Teresa Galino Mateos, Jerónimo Hernández De Castro, Francisca De Paula Saravia González, Jonathan C. Cooper

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The Association for the Study of University Protocol, founded in 1997, brings together professionals in Spanish universities who are responsible for the organization of academic ceremonies, university traditions, as well as the new activities derived from those traditions which maintain the university in its place. In the course of the activities of the Association it soon became apparent that it was necessary to understand with the greatest possible degree of accuracy ways in which academical dress was used and that it was important to establish a catalogue of suggestions on its use and of the current use of colours. The …

‘A Pleasure And An Honor’: Students’ Writing On Academic Dress At Columbia University, 1820–1950, And Updates On Previous Notes, Stephen L. Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

College records from centuries past tell us the rules that students followed when they put on their academic dress. Collections of engravings and photographs show us how they looked. When dressed for class, exams and chapel, how did they feel? That’s harder to say. So when the archives of the student newspaper at Columbia University were digitized recently, I was hopeful that students had committed to ink their thoughts about the ancient costume in the years following the paper’s 1877 founding. I was happy to find that they wrote about cap and gown frequently. [Excerpt].

From Concept To Ceremony: Insights Into The Design And Making Processes For Officers’ Robes Of The University Of Divinity, Melbourne, Kenneth Crawford

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The University of Divinity is an Australian collegiate university awarding degrees exclusively in divinity and has ten constituent colleges from eight denominations. With the chancery and administration located in Kew, a suburb of Melbourne in the state of Victoria, the University of Divinity is the direct successor of the second oldest degree-granting authority in the State of Victoria, the Melbourne College of Divinity. [Excerpt].

Authors; Burgon Society Shop; Burgon Society On-Line Bibliography, Stephen L. Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This content lists the authors' biographies and provides a list of items to purchase from The Burgon Society, which includes books, individual print journal volumes, and the Burgon Society Member's Tie; and a link to the Burgon Society On-line Bibliography for those researching the design, history and practice of academical dress.

Academical Dress In Sweden, Klaus Solberg Søilen

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The first academic ceremonies in Sweden date back to Uppsala and the 1480s. The first concrete evidence of a doctoral ceremony is documented on 22 January in the year 1600. Today the academic ceremony (akademisk högtid) has become broader and includes doctoral promotions (doktorspromotion), promotions of honorary doctors (hedersdoktorer) and installations of professors (professorsinstallation). [Excerpt].

An Act To Avoid The Excess In Apparel 1554–5, Noel Cox

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In an earlier paper it was proposed that the author would—over time—collect and publish the texts of all ancient sumptuary laws of the United Kingdom, at least the principal ones. This has proven to be slower than expected. But in this article, An Act to avoid the excess in apparel 1554-5 is transcribed in full, with a commentary. [Excerpt].

The Academic Robes Of Graduates Of The University Of Cambridge From The End Of The Eighteenth Century To The Present Day, Nicholas Groves

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The aim of this article is to examine the developments in the academic dress of the graduates of the University of Cambridge from the end of the eighteenth century (where Hargreaves-Mawdsley ended his account) to the present day. (Undergraduate dress has been largely a matter for college regulation at Cambridge, and thus does not come within our remit.) Without doubt, the most important development was the complete revision of the scheme in 1934, of which a very biased account is to be found in Franklyn’s Academical Dress of 1970; it does however have useful transcripts of the various Reports of …

The Development Of The Academic Dress Of The University Of Oxford 1920–2012, Andrew James Peter North

Transactions of the Burgon Society

One might expect that the well-trodden ground of Oxford academic dress would yield nothing new or surprising, but this is far from the truth. With an institution as old as Oxford, many onlookers assume that because they know Oxford’s traditions that they know Oxford’s rules and so do not need to consult statute. An excellent example is the number of undergraduates these days who profess that one may not wear the square cap until graduation, whereas the most cursory glance at University regulations would show their belief false. Also, I would argue that the academic dress of Oxford is of …

Authors; Burgon Society Shop; Burgon Society On-Line Bibliography, Stephen L. Wolgast, Paul Coxon, John Horton

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This content lists the authors' biographies and provides a list of items to purchase from The Burgon Society, which includes books and individual print journal volumes; and a link to the Burgon Society On-line Bibliography for those researching the design, history and practice of academical dress.