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Egyptian Pit-Looms From The Late First Millennium Ad — Attempts In Reconstruction From The Archaeological Evidence, Johanna Sigl

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

In discussions on the development of weaving technology, specifically treadle looms in the Mediterranean area, Egypt is often referred to as one of the earliest countries in which people used foot-powered looms for producing cloth. It is thought to have been in regular use in the production of cloth as early as the second half of the 1st millennium AD. This belief is built on results from excavations undertaken during the early 20th century by the Egypt Exploration Fund at the hill of Sheikh Abd el-Qurna in Luxor, as well as on textile studies. Unfortunately, none of the postulated looms …

Tackling The Technical History Of The Textiles Of El-Deir, Kharga Oasis, The Western Desert Of Egypt, Fleur Letellier-Willemin

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

The site of El-Deir is situated north of Kharga in the “Great Oasis” of the Egyptian Western Desert (fig. 1). The site was occupied between the 6th century BC and the 6th century AD. A complex history emerged with the influence of many cultures: Persian, Greek, Roman and early Christian. Archaeological finds in both El-Deir and the oasis itself (the site of Dush and the temple of Darius in Hibis, a city north of Kharga) confirm that the Great Oasis was a wealthy region. This is also substantiated by texts from Ain Manawir and Dakhleh. The presence of an artesian …

Reconstruction Of A Deconstructed Tunic, Anne Kwaspen

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

Tunics of the 1st millennium AD can be classified into two main groups according to the direction of the warp in the finished tunic. The first group of tunics has horizontal warp threads in the finished tunic. This means that the cloth as it is worn is rotated 90° from the weave direction on the loom. In the second group of tunics the warp runs vertically in the finished tunic. Each group of tunics has their typical technological features and finishing methods, with additional distinctions between wool and linen tunics. This article focuses on the study of a tunic belonging …

What Flaws Can Tell: A Case Study On Weaving Faults In Late Roman And Early Medieval Weft-Faced Compound Fabrics From Egypt, Barbara Köstner

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

Silk samites from Late Roman and Early Medieval Egypt are well-known objects in museum collections all over the world. One group of fragments, the so-called Akhmim silks, show a mechanically repeated floral pattern. More than 100 examples with this design are known; the fragments bear striking similarities in design and technique. Were they woven in the same workshop? If all or at least a large number of pieces could be traced back to several batches of production, this would lead to further insights concerning the economics of early silk weaving. A detailed analysis of two exemplary pieces reveals features that …

Ancient Greek Dyeing: A Terminological Approach, Peder Flemestad

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

The Oxford English Dictionary defines dyeing as: “to impregnate (any tissue or the like) with a colour, to fix a colour in the substance of, or to change the hue of by a colouring matter”. In ancient Greek this operation is in general expressed by the verb βάπτειν, but the process of dyeing could be designated by a multitude of other terms. The following contribution provides an overview of the extensive ancient Greek terminology for the action of dyeing. The focus therefore lies primarily on the verbs designating the dyeing process itself, while wider dye terminology is only occasionally touched …

Dyeing In Texts And Textiles: Words Expressing Ancient Technology, Ines Bogensperger, Helgo Rösel-Mautendorfer

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

The complex chaîne opératoire of ancient textile production in various stages has been frequently discussed by textile scholars. According to documentary papyri, textile manufacturing represented the highest taxed industry after agriculture. This emphasises its importance as a significant sector in the ancient economy. A highly specialised branch within the chaîne opératoire is the dyeing industry. Ancient dyers used natural and animal dyestuffs, as well as different dyeing techniques to achieve their colourful results. They were also aware of the specific properties of the different textile fibres. In ancient times, wool and linen were the characteristic materials for manufacturing textiles, but …

How (Not) To Organise Roman Textile Production. Some Considerations On Merchant-Entrepreneurs In Roman Egypt And The Ἱστωνάρχης, Kerstin Droß-Krüpe

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

For almost the last 100 years, various ancient historians have suggested that organisations comparable to the “putting- out” system existed in the Roman Imperial period. They are most commonly believed to have occurred in textile production. As early as 1913, Theodor Reil assumed that the production of textiles in Roman Egypt was organised through the putting-out system. This idea can subsequently be traced through more than a century to recent publications. However, as this assumption is rarely based on genuine source material, it seems appropriate to get to the bottom of this hypothesis. In this context, special attention will also …

Textile Production In The Papyri: The Case Of Private Request Letters, Aikaterini Koroli

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

Throughout the “papyrological millennium”, that is from the 3rd century BC to the 8th century AD, both administrative and private life in Egypt were largely based on letters. Apart from oral communication, letter writing, mostly on papyri and ostraca, was the only available form of communication for the inhabitants of the land of Nile when they needed to get in touch and exchange information with people who did not live in their immediate surroundings. Papyrus letters, written by and sent to private, ordinary people and not to the authorities, composed in the Greek vernacular and intended to fulfill a wide …

Domestic Textile Production In Dakhleh Oasis In The Fourth Century Ad, Jennifer Cromwell

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

Ancient Kellis, modern Ismant el-Kharab is located in Dakhleh Oasis in Egypt’s Western Desert. The main occupation of the village was from the early to late Roman period (late 1st century to the beginning of the 5th century AD). Excavated as part of the Dakhleh Oasis Project, the site has revealed textual and archaeological evidence from which a detailed picture of life can be painted. To date, the main publications of the village’s finds have focussed on the textual remains, of literary and documentary texts in Coptic, Greek, and Syriac.1 A comparable publication of the archaeological evidence from the site …

Conclusion: Egyptian Textiles And Their Production, Dominique Cardon

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

This book, “Egyptian textiles and their production: ‘word’ and ‘object’ (Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods)” is both very useful and… frustrating. Indeed, all volumes of transactions of a scientific symposium are bound to be so, since research is a never-ending story. However, this is particularly true of textile research, which involves so many different approaches. Most of the relevant scientific domains are represented in this volume. There is a good combination of several reports on new research – recently studied archaeological textiles and iconographic documents on weaving – with attempts at syntheses of available evidence, both archaeological and textual, alongside …

Gallucci's Commentary On Dürer’S 'Four Books On Human Proportion': Renaissance Proportion Theory, James Hutson

Faculty Scholarship

In 1591, Giovanni Paolo Gallucci published his Della simmetria dei corpi humani, an Italian translation of Albrecht Dürer’s Four Books on Human Proportion. While Dürer’s treatise had been translated earlier in the sixteenth-century into French and Latin, it was Gallucci’s Italian translation that endured in popularity as the most cited version of the text in later Baroque treatises, covering topics that were seen as central to arts education, connoisseurship, patronage, and the wider appreciation of the studia humanitatis in general.

The text centres on the relationships between beauty and proportion, macrocosm and microcosm: relationships that were not only essential to …

Flax Growing In Late Antique Egypt: Evidence From The Aphrodito Papyri, Isabelle Marthot-Santaniello

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

While flax culture was a major economic sector in Egypt throughout antiquity and the medieval period, one can only agree with John R. Rea, the editor of P. Coll.Youtie II 68, when he says: “it has not escaped notice that surprisingly little information about [flax and linen] has been recovered from the Greek papyri”. By way of example, the specific word for the flax plant, linokalamē, appears in Greek papyri only in around 60 of more than 60,000 published texts. More specifically, the agricultural conditions set to produce flax are seldom visible in the texts: little more than twenty documents …

Etymologies Of Chinese Hànzì And Japanese Kanji: Explanations On Liùshū 六書 And Rikusho 六書, William P.M. Funk

Chinese Language Teaching Methodology and Technology

This paper outlines Liùshū 六書 interpretations of Chinese character etymology to help co-create a better approach for educators in supporting character literacy development in students of the East Asian languages that utilize Chinese writing. The Liùshū 六書 Rikusho 六書approach to character instruction can be interpreted as a strategy to spark interest in western learners providing more detailed explanations that deal with the pictographic and compound nature of Chinese character formation. All non-English words are italicized or bolded, Chinese based terms are in Mandarin Pīnyīn 拼音, and Japanese terms are written in Romaji ローマ字 representing their differences phonetically to integrate foreign …

The Proto-Portraiture Of North Etruscan Cinerary Urns And The Philosophy Of Elite Self-Worth, Sydney Kennedy

Undergraduate Research Awards

The Etruscans did not leave behind a written philosophy on the self, but their funerary culture communicates a value placed on identity in their society. In the Orientalizing period of North Etruria, elites conveyed their status with idealized representation of themselves on cinerary urns. Due to limited outside influences, their emphasis on personhood must originate from an indigenous relationship between status and physicality that began in the Villanovan period. While the reasoning behind why they elevated their individualism with proto-portraiture is uncertain, the attention to individualization coincides with a simultaneous need for the visibility of the elite self. In the …

The Modern Formulation Of Chinese Art History And The Building Of A Nation In Early Twentieth-Century China, Chennie Huang

Dissertations and Theses

At the dawn of the twentieth century, the Chinese formulation of art history underwent dramatic changes. It moved away from the traditional narratives that did not follow a strict chronology to adopt the Western linear model which emphasizes progress and national identity. Based on the premodern tradition, the modern formulations of Chinese art history began as a political strategy for nation building amid the political upheavals, including military attacks on China that led to the end of Qing imperial rule and the beginning of the Republican era (1912-1949).

In the early 1900s, while exiled in Japan, Liang Qichao 梁啟超 (1873-1929), …

Preliminary Report On The 2017 Season Of The American Excavations At Morgantina: Contrada Agnese Project (Cap), Andrew Tharler, D. Alex Walthall, Elizabeth Wueste, Christy Schirmer, Ben Crowther, Jared Benton, Randall Souza, Katharine P.D. Huemoeller

Art Faculty Publications

In its fifth season, the American Excavations at Morgantina: Contrada Agnese Project (CAP) continued archaeological investigations inside the Southeast Building, a modestly-appointed house of Hellenistic date located near the western edge of the city. The 2016 CAP season had revealed the full extent of the property’s boundary walls and allowed us to propose a cohesive phasing scheme for the building’s construction, occupation, and abandonment. We suggested that the house was occupied for approximately 60-75 years, beginning in the second quarter of the third century BCE. The 2017 CAP excavations resolved a number of remaining questions, particularly those concerning the phasing …

The Roman Toga: Construction And Cultural Implications, Natalie Houliston

Classics Ancient Science Fair

This poster discusses the Roman Toga, its modern impact, and a wide variety of aspects about the article of clothing. These other aspects range from the various types, process of making one, materials they are made of, and its role in society among other details.

Lost In Translation, Presumption, And Interpretation: Adam, Noah, And The Ancient Mesopotamian Mythology Of The Creation And The Flood, Saad D. Abulhab

Publications and Research

The common, biblical believes in an initial, single human creation, and a subsequent survival of a punishing, catastrophic flood were among the key forming pillars of the Near East monotheist religions. The other key pillar was, arguably, the belief in the existence of a one, supreme god and creator. However, neither the two stories of human creation and catastrophic flood, nor the belief in one supreme god, were originally introduced by these monotheist religions. Key inscriptions from ancient Mesopotamia have clearly indicated that various versions of these beliefs were commonplace for thousands of years before. Despite the differences in details, …

From Viewer To Voyeur: Victimizing The Barberini Faun, Quentin Clark

Bridges: A Journal of Student Research

This essay explores the connection between the Barberini Faun and sexual predation. Often referred to as a hypersexualized statue, the Barberini Faun is a Hellenistic piece that relies on viewer-statue interaction to communicate ideas involving ancient Greek sexuality. By utilizing literary and material evidence, this essay suggests that the highly sexual yet vulnerable depiction of the Barberini Faun forces its viewer into a position as voyeur, transforming him or her into a potential sexual predator. The Barberini Faun turns the traditional depiction of a satyr on its head, making the statue an object of sexual desire – a potential sexual …

Textiles From A Late Roman/Byzantine Ecclesiastical Centre At Abu Sha’Ar, Egypt, Lise Bender Jørgensen

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

Around AD 400 a group of Christians were looking for a new home. An abandoned Roman military fort at what is now called Abu Sha’ar, c. 20 km north of Hurghada on the Egyptian Red Sea coast, became the answer to their prayers. Steven Sidebotham of the University of Delaware excavated the site in 1987-1993. The fort had been established in AD 309-311 to house a mounted unit, the Ala Nova Maximiana, guarding the Via Nova Hadriana. The military phase was however short-lived: the soldiers abandoned the fort before AD 400. The new settlers turned the former military headquarters into …