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University of Wollongong

Faculty of Creative Arts - Papers (Archive)

Efficiency movement

Publication Year

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Full-Text Articles in Social and Behavioral Sciences

Ordnance, Five Hats And Constantinople: Benjamin, Gustafsson And Lubitsch, Jon Cockburn Aug 2006

Ordnance, Five Hats And Constantinople: Benjamin, Gustafsson And Lubitsch, Jon Cockburn

Faculty of Creative Arts - Papers (Archive)

This paper concentrates on identifying intellectual, cinematic and commercial representations of the efficiency movement as embodied in the emergent mechanical-flâneuse (the term is an obvious combination of the adjective ‘mechanical’, as a Taylorist/Fordist signifier, with the noun ‘flâneuse’, which is a gender inversion of the masculine flâneur: the metropolitan wanderer profiled in Benjamin’s re-examination of Baudelaire and 19th century Paris). To articulate these representations of the ‘new’ woman, under the influence of Americanism in post-1918 Europe, this paper focuses on two passages in Benjamin’s One Way Street. Benjamin’s passages are then read in juxtaposition to advertisements, the first for hats …


Simmel, Ninotchka And The Revolving Door, Jon Cockburn Oct 2005

Simmel, Ninotchka And The Revolving Door, Jon Cockburn

Faculty of Creative Arts - Papers (Archive)

In this paper, Jon Cockburn examines the device of the revolving door employed by Ernst Lubitsch in the opening scene to the film "Ninotchka" (1939), in which the operation of this architectural mechanism metaphorically prefigures several key themes in the film. Specifically, these themes are first, the complementary necessity of coupling efficiency with desire and second, that firmly held principles should be balanced with mutual pleasure. In the late 1930s, in articulating these contrasting attributes the film described the balancing act that confronted self-sufficient modern women, who faced expectations that they be industrially efficient yet noticeably sensual. However, while recognising …


Clothing The Soviet Mechanical-Flâneuse, Jon Cockburn May 2005

Clothing The Soviet Mechanical-Flâneuse, Jon Cockburn

Faculty of Creative Arts - Papers (Archive)

Jon Cockburn looks at fashion trends on both sides of the Atlantic to examine images of and ideals for the modern woman. At the center of his analysis is a history of the Soviet “mechanical-flâneuse,” a distinctive twentieth-century variation upon the nineteenth-century European metropolitan “flâneuse” (or intelligent idler), that emerged through Soviet interpretations of the American efficiency movement. Cockburn traces the efforts of three avant-garde designers who tried to realize the mechanical-flâneuse in the Soviet Union, but shows that as Stalin rose to power, production of the mechanical-flâneuse was restricted to an increasingly theoretical realm. Politics eventually trumped the efficient …