History Commons^™

Sedimented For The Future: Can Technology Sustain Tradition?, Nihal Bursa

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Turkish coffee is unique in its brewing technique and deeply rooted in the culture developed throughout the Ottoman geography since the sixteenth century. The knowledge, skills and rituals of Turkish coffee are transmitted to new generations through observation, participation and practicing. Be it an elaborate ritual at the Ottoman court or a modest peasant pleasure, Turkish coffee requires dedicated time, manual skills and decorum. The pace of industrialization and urbanization in the twenty-first century forced people to acquire new lifestyles. This has put Turkish coffee service in jeopardy especially in public spaces. Owing to the Turkish coffee machine designed by …

The Creation Of An African American Jewish Culinary Tradition: Michael Twitty And The Passover Seder As A Vehicle For Remembering Trauma And Celebrating Survival, Samira Mehta

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The Exodus of the Israelites has long held meaning for African American Christians, as noted by scholars of African American religious history. Jewish studies scholars, meanwhile, have written about both Passover and Jewish relationships to the Exodus. Michael Twitty, public historian, James Beard award-winning author, and memoirist, has fused an identity for himself by drawing on the foodways of both traditions to remember and memorialize the trauma of both traditions While Twitty uses food to create meaning in the context of holidays, his memoirs, Kosher Soul and The Cooking Gene, explore how the food of trauma, poverty, and resilience provide …

Creating A Gastrolinguistic Space: Food In Language Learning Materials Of Jesuit Missionaries During The Sixteenth To The Eighteenth Centuries, Zhongyuan Hu

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This article investigates the intersection of language and gastronomy in European Jesuit missionaries’ language learning materials in China during the late sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries. Through the analysis of three key texts, the article emphasizes the significance of food-related content in fostering linguistic and cultural understanding. It provides a thorough examination of how these texts facilitated cultural exchange, highlighting the role of food in creating a space for dialogue between European and Chinese cultures. This article introduces gastrolinguistics, the combination and interaction of food and language, to explore how missionaries adapted to and learned about Chinese culture and introduced …

The Little Black Book: When Recipes Tell Stories, Cordula C. Peters

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

In post-war Germany in the 1950s my grandmother used to collect recipes from magazines, newspapers, and the backs of food packaging that she neatly cut out and saved. Other recipes were carefully copied with pen and ink. At some point, when my mother was still a child and my grandmother still alive, she and her sister compiled all these recipes and tidily pasted them into a black notebook for safekeeping. Growing up many of the recipes from this book became much-loved dishes prepared by my mother and expected by my siblings and I almost religiously for important holidays such as …

Catering And Hospitality Trade Press Periodicals: Their Emergence, Their Memories, Their Preservation, Carina J. Mansey

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

In Victorian England, cultural, industrial, technological, and financial flows led to two industries being subject to processes of professionalisation: catering and hospitality, and the independent press. As such, a new form of media emerged, the trade press, which catered for those working in the catering and hospitality industry. This press content documents not only the industry’s operations, but also the aspirations and attitudes of employees, their employers, and other key stakeholders. This allows for us to glimpse into past lifeworlds and extract forgotten memories. We are able to witness how ethnoscapes characterised the trade, but also led to integration conflicts. …

Obedient Bellies And The Coming Of Urbanization In Fourth Millennium Mesopotamia, Saikat Mukherjee

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Hunger has always been a persistent trauma of mankind in every age. As a matter of fact, “hunger” which according to Seth Richardson can be defined as the "routine and everyday sub-nutrition, less than a famine and more than a temporary inconvenience" is “one of the most powerful, pervasive and (arguably) emotive words in our historical vocabulary” (Richardson, 2016; Murton, 1988). Food has been the only way to satiate the mass cry and is overlooked by social and economic historians and/or archaeologists as a potent medium to understand an interdependent mass psychology. We seldom try to study food at the …

No Time For Tea: Hidden Figures Of The Dutch Tea Industry, Annette Kappert, Lysbeth Vink

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This paper explores the historical role women played in promoting, distributing, and establishing tea consumption in The Netherlands. Despite being the first nation to introduce tea to the Western world, and the abundance of literature and images documenting women as sapless tea drinkers, languishing their afternoons away, entertaining and sipping the amber brew in their tea houses, the latter is far from reality. Preliminary research indicates Dutch women were instrumental in establishing an elite tea industry in The Netherlands and beyond. Aptly the authors utilized the archives to explore visual and narrative data dating from 1610 to present, to find …

An Abundance Of Cakes: How A National Trauma Created A Unique Culinary Practice In Southern Jutland, Nina Bauer

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The southern part of Jutland has its very own distinct food culture and traditions. Its history differs from other parts of Denmark because this region was under German rule from 1864 until the Reunification in 1920. Special laws were imposed to curtail the population’s political and cultural ties to Denmark. Any political gatherings or sentiments were strictly forbidden. However, cooking was free of restrictions and cooking thus became one of the primary ways to hold onto a Danish identity. This led to a conservation of recipes and traditions that were disappearing in other Danish regions. The farm wives became the …

The Legacy Of The Humoral Theory In Modern Culinary Tradition, Andrzej Kuropatnicki

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The humoral theory, an ancient medical doctrine originating in Greece and championed by eminent physicians like Hippocrates and Galen, served as the cornerstone of medical understanding for millennia, preceding the emergence of modern medicine. This enduring theory postulated that an individual's health was intricately linked to the delicate balance of four bodily fluids or humours. Over the course of nearly two thousand years, it not only shaped medical practices but also profoundly influenced the choices people made regarding their diets and overall well-being. Its reach extended far beyond the realm of medicine, leaving an indelible mark on our culture and …

The Subconscious Of Traditional Practices: Turkish Cuisine, Serife Umay Cicik

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Turkey stands out among the leading countries, particularly in the consumption of meat, milk, and dairy products. In terms of climate and physical conditions, it has the capacity to produce these commodities domestically. Additionally, it is situated in a geographically advantageous position rich in seafood resources. Turkish cuisine is further enriched by dishes and desserts prepared with dough. However, food preparation and cooking methods, equipment, storage conditions, presentation styles, consumption habits, spices, and sauces bear traces of various culinary cultures. Wars, natural disasters, political events, trade routes, and religious structures are among the factors that most significantly influence these differences. …

The Appliance Of Science: Traditions And Change In Food Preparation Using Small Domestic Electrical Appliances, Susan Bailey

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Food preparation in a domestic context has evolved through the application of technology. When electricity became available and motors to power appliances were developed from the late nineteenth century onwards, this made a significant change to the use of appliances for food preparation from post-Second World War onwards. This paper explores the history of and increasing use of small domestic electrical appliances used for food preparation and their development and transition from a commercial to a domestic context. Between the 1950s and 1980s in Britain, the development and promotion of a range of new small domestic electrical appliances were important …

To The Taste Of Ghurba: Diasporic Food And Oral Memories Of Tunisia In Europe, Gabriele Proglio

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

During an oral history research on the larger European open-air market in Turin, called “Porta Palazzo,” Tunisian people replied to my questions using the Tunisian-Arab word ghurba in order to define their condition of being in diaspora. Ghurba is a specific emotion about the condition of separation and estrangement. It is used for describing the situation of being a foreigner, migrant, illegal, invisible in a land away from home. For this reason, it evokes a state of abandonment, loneliness, isolation but also it is used for yearning a reconnection and socialization with an idea of community based on memories of …

Pork Problems - Embodied Britishisms Onboard The First Fleet To Australia, Evelyn Lambeth

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Pigs arrived in Australia with British settlers onboard the First Fleet in 1788 and rapidly spread. As a product of British Imperialism, Australia has adopted many cultural consumption practices from its parent colony. Meat is on many tables, but not every table showcases the same animal, and these cultural differences illustrate that conditions of edibility are not equally defined. British values were attached to pigs, embedding them with transformative abilities to shape colonial ecosystems. Australian industries, jobs, and livelihoods are deeply connected to the past. The East India Company introduced Chinese pigs to Britain from 1685. The history of pigs …

“Praying And Eating”: The Preservation Of Jewish Food Traditions In The Wake Of Brexit Trauma, Angela Hanratty

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This research examines the impact that Brexit, the Northern Ireland Protocol, and the Windsor Framework have had on the food traditions of the Jewish population of Ireland, through focusing on the lived experience of the Jewish communities of Belfast and Dublin and their collective memory. While there has been much debate on the lasting effect of the UK leaving the EU on industry and agriculture, the deleterious impact on the kosher observant in Ireland has been less documented, with specific challenges for the preservation of food traditions in a community with a history “full of praying and eating” (Maurice Cohen, …

Collective Memory, Culinary Continuity, And Solemn Repasts: Lagana, Itria And The History Of Pasta In Southern Italy, Anthony F. Buccini

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Though today it is communis opinio that the Arabs introduced pasta, especially dried pasta, to Sicily and from there it spread to the continent, there is no evidence to support this theory (Buccini 2013, 2015b, 2024). There is, however, ample evidence both textual and linguistic that this food has been known in southern Italy at least since classical times. Here I argue that an examination of holiday foods, especially those of what I call “solemn holidays,” provides further evidence that pasta has been an integral part of southern Italian cuisine for a very long time.

Between Memory And History: Irish Pubs As Sites Of Memory And Invention, Perry Share, Moonyoung Hong

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The pub has been at the centre of Irish culture and identity for at least two centuries, has become a pillar of the Irish tourism “product,” and an export commodity as thousands of themed “Irish pubs” have been established across the world in the last number of decades, supplementing existing establishments that have served the global Irish community. This paper draws on key themes from the diverse material in our upcoming academic volume on the Irish pub, to be published by Cork University Press, later in 2024. The book brings together contributions from scholars of history, sociology, design, literature, culinary …

The Memory Of A Victory: The Spanish-American War Through Cocktail Names, “War Drinks” And The Art Of Mixing, Ilaria Berti

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The relevance of examining late nineteenth-century Cuba depends from its being a colony under two powers, one European and one extra-European: the formal Spanish empire that had the political power and the informal supremacy of the US economic influence. However, within the framework of of enlarging its authority in the American region, the US perceived Cuba as a strategic island that was under the Spanish dominion. For the US expansionistic aims, Cuba has, in fact, been defined as a laboratory for the US empire (Pérez 2008) Through the analysis of newspapers’ articles, images published in the satirical magazine The Puck, …

Cooking In Times Of Oppression, Dorota Koczanowicz

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

In 2017, Marije Vogelzang's interactive performance at the Museum of Rotterdam, 'Black Confectti', was designed to enable the experience of a difficult wartime past. Using authentic recipes from the war press, she prepared dishes based on the creativity of the crisis. In the face of starvation and the struggle for life, the selflessness of creative action in the kitchen and the effort of documentation in the form of recipes from the past and culinary fantasies from the past proved to be a helpful tool for surviving the most oppressive situation. The effectiveness of this strategy is clearly demonstrated not only …

Memories Of Recipes In Twentieth-Century Irish Cookbooks, Gary Thompson

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This paper analyses and categorises the ways in which authors and their publishers have chosen to include the author’s culinary, food and personal memories within the texts of twenty twentieth century Irish Cookbooks. Cookbooks are subjects of culinary nostalgia with the reading of a recipe capable of triggering in the reader a memory of a meal enjoyed, a dish cooked in times past by a loved one, or recollections of the disgust felt for a food hated in childhood. Independent from the reader, the culinary memories of the author can be captured at the time of publication in the text …

More Than Midnight Feasts?: A Gastrocritical Reading Of Enid Blyton’S Malory Towers, St. Clare’S And The Naughtiest Girl In The School Series, Rebecca Broomfield

Dissertations

Food is fundamental to life. It is also fundamental to culture; through our production, manipulation and consumption of foodstuffs, the way in which we eat has amassed a range of rituals and rules. This suggests that food can be used to indicate more than mere biological need. Food and foodways are a common occurrence throughout literature, not least children’s literature. This thesis applies gastrocriticism as a paradigm to investigate the use of food and foodways in Enid Blyton’s Malory Towers, St. Clare’s and The Naughtiest Girl school series. Gastrocriticism is an emerging form of literary criticism that considers the complex …

#Thisisirishfood - The Flavour Of Ireland's West Coast, Anke Klitzing

Articles

In the West of Ireland, a new awareness for quality ingredients and indigenous flavours are drawing out the potential of local produce and craftsmanship.

An Investigation Of Irish Culinary History Through Manuscript Cookbooks, With Particular Reference To The Gentry Of County Kilkenny (1714-1830), Dorothy Cashman

Doctoral

This thesis argues that Irish culinary manuscripts have a significant contribution to make to an understanding of Irish culinary history. It does so by identifying one particular manuscript, NLI MS 34,952 (Baker) as being representative of the genre but singular in terms of the archival and literary support available for an in-depth study. Analysis of the manuscript is undertaken using a methodology devised by the culinary historian Wheaton for researchers attending her workshops at Radcliffe College, Harvard. In these workshops Wheaton studies historic cookbooks to ascertain what these complex texts can reveal by breaking them down into five categories, that …

1916 And The Challenges Of Commemorative Exhibitions In Ireland, Siobhan Doyle

Conference papers

This paper examines how National Cultural Institutions in Ireland have demonstrated significant responses in facilitating collective, reflection, celebration and engagement with the 100th year anniversary of the 1916 Rising by discussing some of the broad tensions and issues facing three exhibition case studies at the National Museum of Ireland and National Gallery of Ireland in Dublin and at the Crawford Art Gallery in Cork City.

Commodification Of Cemeteries: Burial Grounds As Multi-Disciplinary Spaces, Siobhan Doyle

Conference Papers

My paper investigates how many cemeteries have overturned their original function and negative association as sites of death and mourning to be transformed into multi-disciplinary spaces which provide visitors with a meaningful experience. There are many burial spaces that are popular tourist sites- Stonehenge (UK), Taj Mahal (India), etc. However, these may not stand out directly to tourists as resting places of the dead because burials have not taken place at these sites for hundreds of years. Tourists may associate the above sites with their visual and iconic features rather than their original purpose as burial grounds. Working cemeteries such …

The Principles And Practices Of Bar And Beverage Management - The Drinks Handbook, James Peter Murphy

Books/Book Chapters

The bar and drinks business is hugely competitive. The key to success or failure between the many beverages and services offered in any bar is the employees who make, market, sell and serve them. Customer expectation and demand is constantly increasing and so it’s crucial for all staff to have comprehensive product knowledge and superior specialized service skills.

The Principles and Practices of Bar and Beverage Management - The Drinks Handbook is an authoritative resource and comprehensive training guide, essential for all students, bartenders, sommeliers, mixologists, waiters and food and beverage practitioners the world over. Written and configured in an …

Ireland, Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire

Books/Book Chapters

This book section provides a history of food in Irish culture from the early beginings to the present day.

The Role Of Revolution And Rioting In French Wine's Relationship With Place, Brian Murphy

Books/Book Chapters

French Wine: The role of revolution and rioting in establishing it’s relationship with “place”

Many of the rules and regulations surrounding the production of French wines have been heavily debated and criticised over the years. They have been accused of limiting French wine’s ability to compete with new world marketing successes. Appellation d’Origine Controlee represents France’s much imitated system of controlling both geographically based names and indeed production variables associated with these AOCs in terms of “place”.

Prior to the development of the Appellation d’origine controlee laws in 1937, France bore witness to two key wine related violent episodes in …