Fashion Design Commons^™

Digital Transformation In Swimwear Pattern-Making: A Comparative Study Of Traditional Vs. Digital Methods Using Adobe Illustrator, Soha Rafek Ibrahim Afifi, Wafaa Abdel-Rady Qurashi, Bahira Gebaly Gabr

Journal of Art, Design and Music

The fashion industry is going through a major transformation with the advent of digital technologies. This study presents a comparison of the traditional and digital methods of making swimwear patterns using Adobe Illustrator. The study aims to identify the benefits and challenges of using Adobe Illustrator as a digital tool for patternmaking. The study compares traditional and digital methods’ efficiency, accuracy, and sustainability by studying and applying the basic principles of drafting swimwear patterns. The results show that digital methods using Adobe Illustrator can significantly reduce production time, increase pattern-making accuracy, and improve the sustainability of the production process. The …

Innovator - Spring 2023

Innovator

03 - The President’s Column

06 - Time Machine: Fabric of the Heart

10 - The Nexus: News at Jefferson

20 - Student to #Philebrity: Influenced by Jefferson

24 - The Light Fantastic

30 - We Are One Jefferson

34 - Question & Innovate

36 - Reimagine

40 - Ram Roundup

44 - Class Notes

56 - In Memory

58 - Trivia

Innovator - Summer 2022

Innovator

05 - The Provost’s Column

08 - Time Machine: John K. Mitchell’s Automaton Chess Player

12 - The Nexus: News at Jefferson

22 - Empowering Amputees to Conquer the Seas

26 - The Legend: Coach Herb Magee ’63, HOF ’11

34 - Common Threads

38 - Pitch Please

44 - Question & Innovate: Natasha A. Trice ’14

48 - The Future is Now Farewell to Dr. Stephen K. Klasko

52 - A Father’s Life Inspires a Son’s Giving

54 - Reimagine

60 - Ram Roundup

64 - Class Notes

72 - In Memory

Creating A 1940s Costume: A Historical Investigation, Jennifer Mott

The Confluence

The purpose of this Art History research investigation was to create a costume from the 1940s by immersing myself in a time period when people often made their own clothing. This was done to better understand what it means to have a personal connection to the items I wear. Our experiences as consumers in the twenty-first century are vastly different than those belonging to the people that lived during the mid-twentieth century because almost all of our clothing is purchased from corporations and created by people that we will likely never meet. For this investigative study, I shopped for and …

A Historical Overview And Description Of The University Of Kwazulu-Natal’S Ceremonial And Academic Attire, Andrew-John Bethke

Transactions of the Burgon Society

he University of KwaZulu-Natal was legally constituted in 2004 when the University of Natal was amalgamated with the University of Durban-Westville. In the early 2000s, the South African government sought to decrease the number of higher education institutions in the country from thirty-six to twenty-one through amalgamation. This article describes the process by which the current university developed its ceremonial and academic dress.

Peculiar And Proper Habits: The Use And Production Of Academic Dress In Colonial, Revolutionary, And Federal Philadelphia, Nicholas Heavens

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This is a study of the adoption and use of academic dress at the University of Pennsylvania and its predecessor institutions, the College of Philadelphia and University of the State of Pennsylvania from approximately 1750–1830. Despite early interest of the College’s founder, Benjamin Franklin, to use academic dress to monitor student activities outside college bounds, there was soon contentious debate between the institution’s founding senior academics about whether academic dress should be used at all. By sheer force of will of its leading proponent, academic dress came into use at public ceremonies. These public ceremonies became a model for public …

A Study Of The History And Use Of Lace On Academical Gowns In The United Kingdom And Ireland: Updates And Corrections, Charles Rupert Tsua

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This article is a supplement to my 2012 article in the Transactions. In the last few years research has answered some of the questions I raised in the original article, and has uncovered some ambiguities that may require further study. I shall follow a similar format to the original article, but list only the laces which need updating due to new information.

Coloured Velvet Is Too Gaudy: The 1861 Reforms To The Academical Costume Of The University Of London, Bruce Christianson

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The University of London’s original system of academic dress was adopted by the Senate in 1844, and made extensive use of velvet on both gowns and hoods. In 1861 London adopted a radically new system, which eliminated the use of velvet and which has (with various amendments and additions) remained recognizably in use to this day. This article tells the story of how the revision came about, by tracing its progress through the Minute Book of Convocation.

Bristol Blue: A Search For The Origins Of Academic Dress At The University Of Bristol, Paul Hayward

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This article gives the results of research into the origins of academic dress at the University of Bristol, and is principally concerned with the regulations surrounding that subject. As such, it does not look into the actual use of academic dress. For example, undergraduate gowns still form part of the official regulations, but they are not to be seen in the University today. This falls outside the scope of this research.

Erratum: The Lack Of A Theology Hood At The University Of The West Indies, Mitchell A. Nicholls

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In the printed edition of Volume 20, p. 162, Mitchell A. Nicholls’ article ‘The Lack of a Theology Hood at the University of the West Indies’ erred in spelling out the degree BCL. It is a Bachelor of Civil Law, not Canon Law. The error was corrected before the digital edition of Volume 20 was uploaded.

The Curious Case Of A Women’S Academic Collar, Valentina S. Grub

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In mid-nineteenth century America, women’s seminaries were established as a counterpoint to men’s colleges. However, while their male counterparts immediately adopted various iterations of academic gowns, these seminaries struggled to formalize their own academic attire. One element of it was a ‘collar’ made of fine mesh and, most unusually, sectioned into panels by lengths of boning. The ends would have been drawn around the back of the neck and fastened by a row of tiny, cumbersome hooks and eyes. As an academic accessory, such a collar has hitherto been unknown to the academic dress academe. Moreover, it offers a scholarly …

Front Matter, Editorial Board

Transactions of the Burgon Society

No abstract provided.

Fossils In Silk: Historical Hoods Of Trinity College, Toronto, Colin Fleming

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The hoods used by Trinity College at the University of Toronto bear out to some extent what Groves and Christianson suggested, namely that ‘colonial universities initially borrowed their [academical dress] from the mother country, and particularly, in the case of British colonies, from the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge.’ The hoods we saw at the conference provide evidence that Trinity College may represent an archaeological record of Canadian interpretations (or adaptations) of historical UK usage. The robes of the College have been described in various catalogues and other publications from 1875 to the present, and these sources provided valuable clues …

The Invention Of Tradition: The Cambridge Benefactors’ Gowns, Simon Morris

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This article examines the emergence of a new phenomenon in academic dress that has developed over the past twenty years—the awarding of special gowns by some colleges of the University of Cambridge to recognize individual donors and reward their munificence. This appears to be predominantly—albeit not exclusively—a Cambridge phenomenon, and for reasons advanced below not replicated at Oxford University. This article considers in turn whether benefactors’ gowns qualify as academic dress, the reasons for their institution and the criteria for their design. It then looks at the two types of design that have been used, paying particular attention to the …

University Of Portsmouth Academic Dress, Philip Goff

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The University of Portsmouth has its origins in the Portsmouth and Gosport School of Science and Art (1870), the Portsmouth Municipal Technical Institute (1894) and Portsmouth Municipal College (1908), which replaced the earlier Institute. The College also took under its wing the College of Art, Portsmouth Day Training College for teachers and a public library.This article examines the development of academic dress at the University of Portsmouth.

History And Development Of University Doctoral Academical Dress In Aotearoa (New Zealand), Scott Pilkington

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In 2018 it was announced that Auckland University of Technology (AUT) would join the other seven universities in Aotearoa (New Zealand) in offering a higher doctorate qualification. As part of this process it became apparent that new academical dress would need to be designed and created. Working in the university’s Graduate Research School gave me an opportunity to provide input, and as a result, I designed a new set of academic dress for these qualifications in conjunction with the university’s official robemaker, Paul Fielder (FBS).

This provided a prompt to examine what academical dress exists for existing AUT doctorates – …

Fashsim Lab: Learning About Cotton From Field To Virtual Fashion, Kelly Cobb, Angela Beckett

Frameless

The global pandemic is clearly illuminating the value and even necessity of online education and remote learning for students around the world (IIIE, 2020.) Virtual modules engage students, substituting valuable learning experiences that are not possible to recreate due to constraints on time and/or materials, or physical meeting ability, demonstrated by the pivot due to COVID. In the virtual lab, students are able to work together, applying course concepts to new situations and contexts, as well as develop data analysis skills. Common in the sciences, this novel concept embeds state-of-the art learning into the textile and apparel curriculum. In the …

Everyone: Costumes, Hair, And Makeup: Minerva Teichert Award Winner 2021, Karaleigh Garrison

AWE (A Woman’s Experience)

No abstract provided.

Reaping The Whirlwind: American Degree And Subject Colours (1962–Present), Kenny Suit

Transactions of the Burgon Society

A committee of representatives from several universities in the U.S. East Coast, called the Intercollegiate Commission on Academic Costume, standardized the American system of academic costume in 1895. The keystone of the standards was the hood, in its shape, edging, and colours. This article looks at changes to the colours assigned to degrees and areas of study from 1962 through the present. Charts showing when the colours started, and in some cases stopped, being used make up the appendices.

The Lack Of A Theology Hood At The University Of The West Indies, Mitchell A. Nicholls

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Established in 1948, The University of the West Indies offers a course in theology but has no hood for those who complete it. This article examines the history of the programme and considers the reasons no hood has been approved.

The Hoods Of The Three Senior Doctorates At Edinburgh, Nicholas Groves

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The article tracks changes to the hoods of Doctor of Divinity, Doctor of Laws, and Doctor of Medicine at the University of Edinburgh from various sources from 1843 to 1970 in a chart with illustrations.

In Memoriam: Robin L. D. Rees, Nicholas Groves

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Obituary of Robin L. D. Rees, 1946–2021. He was a Fellow of the Society and designed the hoods of the Institute of Physics and for the Archbishop’s Certificate in Church Music.

Editor’S Note, Stephen Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

No abstract provided.

Cap And Gown? Use Of Headgear At Graduation In Uk Universities In The Twenty-First Century, Martin J. Hardcastle

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Academic headwear, partticularly in the form of the square cap or mortar-board, is perhaps the most widely recognised symbol of educational achievement in the world. This article surveys the current practice of wearing academic caps of all types at graduation ceremonies in UK universities, to understand whether there are common factors in the use or disuse of headwear, and thus tentatively to explain the wide variation in practice that is seen in the twenty-first century.

The Evolution Of Undergraduate Academic Dress At The University Of Cambridge And Its Constituent Colleges, Brian M. Newman

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This paper charts the development of the distinctive academic costume worn by undergraduate members of England’s second oldest university, Cambridge. It follows the evolution in undergraduate academic dress from differentiation based upon social class and wealth (and regulated as such by the University) to one of differentiation, in most historical cases at least, by the college of which undergraduates are members, about which the University’s only current stipulation is that gowns should be knee-length.

Primary Source: Examining Official Dress In Universities In Aotearoa New Zealand, Scott Pilkington

Transactions of the Burgon Society

No abstract provided.

‘Different Forms Of Gowns For All Sorts Of Scholars In Their Several Ranks’: Academic Undress At Oxford In 1635, Alex Kerr

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This is a study of a one-page manuscript in the Oxford University Archives with the title ‘Different Forms of Gowns for All Sorts of Scholars in their Several Ranks’, dated June 1635. It was clearly written in connection with the Laudian Code of statutes, which was drafted in 1634 and adopted in 1636. The Code included regulations on university dress and its use at Oxford that would remain in force for 134 years. The document gives a concise specification for Oxford gowns at a time when other written records providing such detail are lacking and pictorial evidence is sparse. This …

A Grave Decent Gown: The 1690 Glasgow Gown Order, Neil K. Dickson

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In 1690 the University of Glasgow ordered gown for two of its officers, the invoice for which is in the University’s archives. This article relies on the document to examine the designs of the gowns in details, to see how they influenced academic dress at the University to the present day, and to understand the political statement they made at the time, when newly appointed officers were seeking to exercise their authority in the context of a changed national political scene.

Reflections Of Designing The Academic Dress Of The University Of Hertfordshire, Bruce Christianson

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Thirty years ago the authors were involved in the design of the academic dress for the new University of Hertfordshire. In this article they reflect upon the process and describe the conversations and discussions that led to the university’s dress for graduates, staff, faculty and officers.

Innovator - Fall 2021

Innovator

05 - Message from the President

09 - The Provost's Column

10 - Time Machine: A Glorious Stride

14 - The Nexus: News at Jefferson

22 - Fabric Wins

28 - Mind Over Matter

36 - A Designing Woman

42 - Celebration of Innovation

48 - Question & Innovate: Tracy Durkin, Esq. '83

52 - New Curriculum Nurtures Students' Creative Side

56 - Answering the Call (of Duty)

58 - Reimagine

60 - An Extraordinary Everywoman

62 - Ram Roundup

64 - Class Notes

72 - In Memory

74 - Trivia