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Symposium Program- Contents

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Plenary Session

Handwork

Costume

Trade

Power of Pattern: Textiles, Politics & Persuasion (Panel)

Individual Papers—South America

Symbols of Influence

Threads of Change: The Transformation of Textiles in the Lao People’s Democratic Republic (Panel)

Mexico and Guatemala

Weaving

Embroidery

Vilhelm Hammershøi, Auguste Renoir, And The Problem Of Innovation, Robert Jensen

Art and Visual Studies Presentations

Consider the following eulogy offered the Danish painter, Vilhelm Hammershøi, by one of his own countrymen upon the artist’s untimely death in 1916. “Renoir is an artist for the entire world; Hammershøi, name and repute notwithstanding, only for a small country.”1 The Danish critic offered no criteria for his judgment; it was too obvious to him. Even in his own country Hammershøi could be no more than a minor artist. His diminished posthumous reputation within the history of art might be summed up by the decision in 1931 of the director of the Statens Museum in Copenhagen to return a …

Fall 2004, Valparaiso University

The Lighter, 1958-2019

No abstract provided.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 16:3 — Fall 2004, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Oakland Beckons! TSA Symposium, October 7–9, 2004
From the President
TSA News
TSA Study Tours
TSA Member News
Symposium Exhibition: The Past in Present Tense: Four Decades of Baskets by Julia Parker
Member Reports
Collections News
Exhibition Review: The 11th Triennial of Textiles, Central Museum, Lodz, Poland
Book Reviews
Opportunities
Grants and Awards
Call for Papers
From the Editor
Calendar-Exhibitions, Lectures, Seminars, Tours
Conferences and Symposia

Agribusiness Sheep Updates - 2004 - Part 1, Mark Dolling, Len Stephens, David Thomanson, Norm Adams, Shimim Liu, Peter Buchman, Mike Paton, Dianne Evans, John Edwards, Scott Champion, Alan Langford, A. C. Schlink, J. C. Greeff, M. E. Ladyman, Kimbal M. S. Curtis, John Stanton, Stuart Adams, Neal Fogarty, Matthew Kelly, James Skerritt, Ian Mcfarland

Sheep Updates

Proceedings of the Agribusiness Sheep Updates - 2004 Forward Dr Mark Dolling Manager, Sheep Industries and Pasture, Department of Agriculture Western Australia Keynotes Australian Wool Innovation Limited DR LEN STEPHENS AUSTRALIAN WOOL INNOVATION LIMITED (AWI) Commercialisation of Sheepmeat Eating Quality Outcomes, David Thomason, General Manger Marketing Meat & livestock Australia Limited PLENARY The Fitness of the Future Merino, Norm Adams and Shimin Liu, CSIRO Livestock Industries Ovine Johne’s Disease – Managing the Disease, Managing the Issues, PETER BUCKMAN, CHIEF VETERINARY OFFICER, DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE WESTERN AUSTRALIA Animal Welfare – Changes in Latitudes Changes in Attitudes, Michael Paton and Dianne Evans, …

Agribusiness Sheep Updates - 2004 Part 2, Anyou Liu, Clinton Revell, Phil Nichols, Brad Nutt, Darryl Clements, Lucy Anderton, Stephen Gherardi, Chris Oldham, Paul Sanford, John Gladman, G. E. Donald, A. Edirisinghe, D. A. Henry, S. P. Gittins, R. C. G. Smith, Roy Butler, Kelly Pearce, David Masters, David Pethick, Andrew Thompson, Ken Hart, Johan Greeff, Beth Paganoni, Rachel Kirby, Matt Ryan, Kira Butler, Roger Heggarty, David Hopkins, Samantha Giles, Tom Plaisted, Mark Ferguson, Darren Gordon, John Young, Sandra Brown, Ian Mcfarland, John Archer, John Milton, Rob Davidson, Graeme Martin, David Lindsay, Johnathan England, Mandy Curnow, Karina P. Wood, Ashley K. White, B. Lloyd Davies, Paul M. Carberry, Mark Hyder, Mike Freer, Andrew Van Burgel, Kazue Tanaka, Andrew Peterson, Roger Wiese, Gonzalo Mata, Evan Burt, Amanda Miller, Anne Bennett, Felicity Flugge, Amir Abadi, Perry Dolling, Dean Thomas, Mike Ewing, David Lindsay, Emma Kopke, E. A. Dowling, E. K. Crossley, Brien (Ben) E. Norton, John Karlsson, Geoff Pollott, Diana Fedorenko, Darryl Clements, Robert Beard, Brown Besier, Una Ryan, Caroline Bath

Sheep Updates

Precision Pastures

Using Species Diversity to Improve Pasture Performance Anyou Liu and Clinton Revell, Department of Agriculture, Western Australia

New Annual Pasture Legumes for Sheep Graziers Phil Nichols, Angelo Loi, Brad Nutt and Darryl McClements Department of Agriculture Western Australia

Pastures from Space – Can Satellite Estimates of Pasture Growth Rate be used to Increase Farm Profit? Lucy Anderton, Stephen Gherardi and Chris Oldham Department of Agriculture Western Australia

Summer-active Perennial Grasses for Profitable Sheep Production Paul Sanford and John Gladman, Department of Agriculture, Western Australia

Pastures From Space – Validation Of Predictions Of Pasture Growth Rates DONALD, G.E^{.A …}

Anticipating Artistic Behavior: New Research Tools For Art Historians, Robert Jensen

Art and Visual Studies Faculty Publications

The author applies David Galenson's work on the life cycles of modern artists to the study of the paintings of old masters, from about the early fifteenth to the late seventeenth centuries. Both the potential use of technical examination of paintings and the role of drawings for preconceiving compositions are explored as means for interpreting artistic behavior among premodern artists. Using a study of illustrations in texts to establish a list of canonical painters and the relative dates in which they are believed to have contributed their most important paintings, the author then analyzes a series of old master painters' …

Doodles To Drawings: The Creative Process Of Drawing & Thinking For Cartooning, Kyle Lindholm

Critical and Creative Thinking Capstones Collection

Doodles to Drawings: The Creative Process of Drawing & Thinking for Cartooning invites the reader into the cartoonist’s mind at work. The author guides the audience through his cartooning process by presenting work from his sketchbook which includes illustrations, sketches, various notes, and final drawings. Diagrams graphically organize the key thinking strategies of the drawings as they progresses. From these illustrations the author extrapolates seven recurring patterns which characterize his own process include: Mental Work, Take-in Information, Free Flowing, Sudden, & Rapid Appearance of Ideas, Sketching as Many Ideas as Possible, Creating Multiple Versions, A Messy Process, and the Need …

The View Finder: Discovering My Artist Path Through Photography, Ivy Frances

Critical and Creative Thinking Capstones Collection

This is a personal narrative of how I applied Critical and Creative Thinking skills to photography and, in the process, found my artistic self. As a young girl, I was an emerging artist under the tutelage of creative parents. I took photographs of my family and of the beautiful landscape where we lived. Tragedy struck my child’s world twice; first, when my father died, and a second time when developers destroyed the natural areas where I played. These events shut down my inner awareness, stunted my growth as a risk taker and the artist in me went dormant. The Critical …

Creating A Life Of Art: A Personal Journey Towards Creative Freedom, Kristen Hanks

Critical and Creative Thinking Capstones Collection

This paper is a journey through my life as a Creator, from early childhood to the present. As I have moved through the process of writing my creative history, I have been able, for the first time, to take an introspective, reflective look at who I am as a person and an artist/creator. Using skills introduced to me in the Critical And Creative Thinking Program, it has been possible for me to undertake the task of confronting my past, my present and my future. My journey towards creative freedom begins in early childhood as I struggle with being a creative …

Holy Cross Students And Neighbors To Gather For Dedication Of Community Mosaic, College Of The Holy Cross

Civitas Branching Documentation

Press release announcing the dedication of Civitas Branching, a 5-panel mosaic depicting scenes from the College Hill neighborhood. The mosaic was created as a collaborative art project by students of the College of the Holy Cross and residents of the College Hill neighborhood in Worcester, Massachusetts. It was originally installed on the College Hill Civic Association building located at 79 Kendig Street in Worcester, Massachusetts.

In 2016, the mosaic was relocated to the east patio of Dinand Library on the campus of the College of the Holy Cross in Worcester, Massachusetts. A rededication ceremony was held April 20, 2016. …

Effects Of Accelerated Heat And Light Aging On Textiles Marked With Fabric Marking Pens, Janet Evenson, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

Despite reasonable concerns that fabric marking pen inks may prove damaging over time, some quilters use them to temporarily mark quilting designs on quilt tops. Unfortunately, no published results concerning long-term effects of these products exist. The purpose of this study was to determine whether marking pen inks contribute to degradation or discoloration over time. Samples were marked with one of three brands of marking pen and subjected to ink removal treatments, followed by heat or light aging. Changes in color and breaking strength were measured before and after heat or light aging. Results showed that a water immersion ink …

Spring 2004, Valparaiso University

The Lighter, 1958-2019

No abstract provided.

Book Review. Crafting Tradition, Jo Farb Hernandez

Faculty Publications

No abstract provided.

Foglio, Syracuse University

School of Architecture - All Scholarship

Foglio is a publication that covers the work produced by students and faculty of Syracuse University during their time in Florence. This edition covers the topics of Futurism and Fascism in architecture, Teaching Architecture, Mapping Rituals, and the general student work from 1998-2003.

Image And Enlightenment: Illustrated Books From The Age Of Reason To The Romantic Era, Trinity College

Watkinson Publications

Guide to exhibit held by Watkinson Library, 2004.

This exhibition grew out of an art history class taught by Professor Alden Gordon entitled “The Sublime, the Picturesque and the Romantic,” which focused on 18th century art with special emphasis on the book arts and printing. Supported by a Mellon Foundation course development grant for information literacy, the class aimed at developing the students’ visual literacy as the ability to understand art images and objects in their broader cultural and intellectual context.

Students were asked to select an illustrated book from the Watkinson Library printed during the 18th or early 19th …

Improving Knit Fabric Upf Using Consumer Laundry Products: A Comparison Of Results Using Two Instruments, Jihyun Kim , Janis Stone , Patricia Crews , Mack Shelley Ii, Kathryn L. Hatch

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

This study investigated the use of two instruments to measure the ultraviolet protective factor (UPF) of T-shirt knit fabrics. After various laundering treatments, specimens were cut and UPF was measured from the wale, course, and bias directions with the ISO MET® UV-Meter and the Cary UV-Visible Spectrophotometer. Similar results were found between the two instruments and among repeated measures. Before UPF measurement, the shirt fabrics were repeatedly laundered using various household detergents and laundering additives commonly available to consumers. Statistically significant effects on the mean UPF values were found related to type of fabric, type of detergent/laundry additives, number of …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 16:2 — Spring 2004

Textile Society of America Newsletters

TSA Symposium, Oakland, CA Oct. 7-9, 2004, by Inez Brooks-Myers
President's Letter
New TSA Board Slate
TSA Study Tour of Ghana, Jan 7-20, 2005 (Dr. Lisa Aronson)
TSA Study Tour to Turkey (Walter Denny)
News: Mona Berman, Deborah Corsini, Virginia Davis, Genevieve Duggan, Judy Frater, Judith Poxon Fawles, Jane Hoffman, Suzanne MacAulay, Deborah McClintock, Elin Noble, Teresa Paschke, Fran Reed, Bela Shanghvi, Ruth Scheuing, Karen Searle, Myra Serrins, Barbara Shapiro, Carol Westfall, Patricia Williams, John Barker, Francis Concato, Sophie Desrosiers, Elana Dickson, Elizabeth Wincott Heckett, Edward M. Franquemont
Textile Conservation in the Kingdom of Bhutan -- Julia M. Brennan
Exhibition …

Traveling Stitches: Origins Of Fair Isle Knitting, Deborah Pulliam

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The beginnings and "invention" of knitting has long fascinated knitters and amateur historians. Only recently has it come to be studied seriously, and there is still much folklore and fantasy repeated and published as history.

This paper (and discussion) considers some of the best known and most popular stories about the origins of Shetland and Fair Isle knitting and compares those with more recent considerations of color patterning in northern Europe, especially in the Baltic states and eastern Europe.

Fair Isle color patterning has been explained for many years as having been inspired by a wreck of the Spanish Armada …

Art, Sport And The Sweet Spot, John Strassburger

Publications

This is the seventh in a series of occasional papers about the challenges confronting students and what Ursinus is doing to help them enter adult life.

Javanesque Effects: Appropriation Of Batik And Its Transformations In Modern Textiles, Abby Lillethun

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

American batik practice emerged in the early twentieth century based on traditional techniques from Java and those filtered through Dutch Nieuwe Kunst. The promotion of batik through the Arts and Crafts movement in North America fostered egalitarian endorsement from artisans, individual practitioners, and consumers, across geographic locales, social milieu, and skill levels. Encouraged by manuals, magazine articles, and exhibitions, enthusiasm for batik grew across the nation and in the avant-garde enclave of Greenwich Village. While practitioners were cautioned to avoid excessive veining or crackle in their works in emulation of fine tradition, commercial enterprises helped to transform the aesthetic …

A Ping-Pong Example Of Cultural Authentication And Kalabari Cut-Thread Cloth, Joanne B. Eicher

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The concept of cultural authentication was first introduced to analyze the check and plaid textile called Indian madras used by the Kalabari people of the Niger Delta of Nigeria to produce a design by subtraction on the cloth which they subsequently call pelete bite (Erekosima, 1979; Erekosima and Eicher, 1981). Although the Kalabari are part of a much larger group of Niger Delta peoples, this cut-thread cloth is original and peculiar to them. They depend on the supply of madras from India to produce pelete bite to wear as men’s and women’s wrappers, to cover the face of a masquerader, …

Pattern Power: Textiles And The Transmission Of Knowledge, Carol Bier

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

If one makes an ontological distinction between patterns and textiles, an argument can be developed to assess the potential role that textiles may have played in the transmission of mathematical knowledge, concerning the spatial dimension. This paper seeks to address early Islamic textiles within the context of contemporary advances in the history of mathematics from the 8th – 10th centuries, which may have influenced, or been influenced by, technical developments in the production of pattern-woven textiles.

In particular, this paper explores patterns in woven textiles ascribed to the Sasanian Empire and its aftermath in Iran and Central Asia, with a …

Appropriation, Acculturation, Transformation, Janet Stoyel

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Investigation of high-tec processes for the manufacture of decorative materials for use in contemporary textile and fashion design. Photon Laser and Ultrasound techniques explored via engineered substrates to create patinated colour, structural surfaces, repetitive pattern, etched detailing and modernistic construction possibilities. Keywords: Photon Laser, Ultrasound, Ecological, Environmental, Sustainability, Substrates.

‘Rafoogari’ Of Najibabad, Priya Ravish Mehra

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper will discuss the still continuous and centuries old skill of “Rafoogari” or the Darning and Maintenance of Pashmina Shawls by the Rafoogars or Darners of Najibabad, an historical town in western Uttar Pradesh. It is the home of several ‘Rafoogar’ families and the hub of the kani shawl trade. While Kashmiri pashmina shawls have been elaborately researched, the important role of darners in the maintenance of these priceless shawls has not yet been recognized. Although darning is a highly intricate and laborious task necessary to the maintenance, restoration, and renewal of the shawls, the role of the darners …

Dissolving The Objective Grid: Cultural Excavations In The Work Of Sharon Marcus, Mary Lane

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Sharon Marcus’ tapestries reflect her training in anthropology and archaeology. Her investigation into the notion of site and the human traces that remain within a site reveals the complex, layered and inherently ambiguous nature of the meaning embedded in fragmentary remains. Her artistic exploration also involves a critical investigation of the methods of scientific inquiry that underlie the disciplines of anthropology and archaeology. Her tapestries examine the notion of objectivity and the ordering system of the grid. In exposing the limitations of those paradigms, Marcus has adopted a subjective and multifaceted approach to representation that rejects the notion of transparency, …

International Textile Works: A Laboratory For Experimental Artists From Around The World To Create Cutting- Edge Design, Grounded In Textiles, Wendy Weiss

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Located at the University of Nebraska, our textile department launched the International Textile Works (ITW) in 2002. The department built on existing resources of a Mimaki Textile Jet Tx-1600S direct inkjet 65” fabric printer and an industrial steamer. The competitively awarded University’s Arts and Humanities Enhancement Fund provided start-up funds to invite an artist to design and print on this equipment. Internally we began applied research to test the best use of this technology for artists.

This initiative enables our design faculty, in collaboration with our scientific faculty, to create a fertile environment for developing innovative applications of digital technology. …

Transformative Prospects: Textile Structure And The Social Organization Of Pre-Columbian And Colonial Andean Production, Blenda Femenías

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The pre-Columbian Andean material culture record is especially crucial for trying to understand social organization because Andean societies apparently did not employ what Europeans recognized as “writing.” The evidence contained in the objects themselves thus bears a larger burden in helping scholars analyze how social life was structured to enable a huge volume of cultural production. For pre-Columbian textiles in particular, the analysis of embroidered figures and their relationship to the ground fabric on which they were positioned has played crucial roles. In effective and original ways, Anne Paul used the evidence in textile objects, especially from the Paracas culture, …

Changes In Nomadic Arab Weaving Due To Outside And Internal Influences, Joy May Hilden

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Centuries of tradition in the weaving of the Bedouin, using sheepswool and goat hair, has changed dramatically in the last fifty years. With the decline of nomadism, due directly and indirectly to the discovery of oil, techniques and products have fallen to disuse or have been transformed with new materials and put to new uses.

Bedouin weaving was formerly used for tents, rugs and animal gear by nomadic Arab tribes in Saudi Arabia, Oman, Qatar, Iraq, Syria, Jordan, Palestine/Israel and Egypt. Lifestyles among and influences on the bedu vary by region, but the decline of nomadism is common to all. …

The Distribution Of Cultural Identity A Canadian Case Study, Jennifer E. Salahub

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A banner like this, hung in the central passage of a training institute … cannot fail to impress itself on the character of some, giving their tastes a bent in those directions which you would desire to push them into.

Albert Henry George, 4th Earl Grey (b.1851-d.1917). Letter, National Archives of Canada, Dated 13 March 1906.

This illustrated presentation introduces a series of early twentieth-century embroidered and appliquéd banners that were the inspiration of Lord Grey, Governor General of Canada between 1904–11. The medium – needlework – was specifically chosen because of its historic connotations. By literally fabricating material memories …