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Articles 121 - 149 of 149
Full-Text Articles in Art and Design
Wreath And Cap To Veil And Apron: American Modification Of A Slavic Ritual, Patricia Williams
Wreath And Cap To Veil And Apron: American Modification Of A Slavic Ritual, Patricia Williams
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
This paper explores a wedding custom practiced for more than one hundred years in the Chicago area by the descendants of Czech, Polish, and Slovak immigrant women. Through the custom's existence and perpetuation in America, the role of a transitional rite of passage is chronicled in both the process of assimilation and the preservation of ethnic heritage. The original textile symbols used in the ritual were modified to reflect the differences in culture in the United States but with the "echoes" of European folk tradition still heard. Chicagoans today have continued to modify the custom as the role of women …
The Conversion Of Chinese Court Robes Into Japanese Festival Hangings, Gloria Granz Gonick
The Conversion Of Chinese Court Robes Into Japanese Festival Hangings, Gloria Granz Gonick
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Decorated silken robes historically worn in China to garb the emperor and his family were disassembled and resewn in Japan into hangings for Kyoto's Gion Festival during the 16th to 18th centuries. The twenty robes, which were converted into coverings for festival carts called yama and hoko, include silk tapestry weaves (kesi), brocades, and embroidered examples. Eleven date from the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) and nine from the early to mid Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). This distribution contrasts with other world collections of Chinese imperial robes, in which Qing Dynasty examples are far more numerous. In addition to the …
Micronesian Textiles In Transition: The Woven Tol Of Kosrae, Ann Deegan, Ross Cordy
Micronesian Textiles In Transition: The Woven Tol Of Kosrae, Ann Deegan, Ross Cordy
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
This paper presents findings on the major steps in the transition of the Kosraen tol from traditional clothing, to tourist souvenir, to the end of tol manufacture. An extensive study of the German, French, and English literature of the 19th and 20th centuries was done to piece together the history of the Kosraen tol.
The island of Kosrae, located in the Pacific (4–10°N latitude, 140–163°E longitude), is part of the Federated States of Micronesia. Since earliest European contact it has seen numerous changes in its traditional culture. One of its most beautiful and complex traditional crafts is the woven …
The "Severed Shroud": Local And Imported Textiles In The Mortuary Rites Of An Indonesian People, Penelope Graham
The "Severed Shroud": Local And Imported Textiles In The Mortuary Rites Of An Indonesian People, Penelope Graham
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
This paper explores the significance of local and imported textiles as these interact forming complex categories in the mortuary rites of the Lamaholot-speaking people of the traditional district Lewolema in eastern Flores, Indonesia. Within this regional framework, my account draws primarily on field work in the village of Lewotala. There a person's physical demise elicits diverse social and ritual practices, depending on the deceased's achievements during his or her lifetime and the circumstances surrounding the death. As regards the mortuary sequence that commonly occurs, I will argue that various uses of cloth for exchange purposes mark both the severence—consequent on …
Contact, Crossover, Continuity: The Emergence And Development Of The Two Basic Lace Techniques, Santina Levey, Milton Sonday
Contact, Crossover, Continuity: The Emergence And Development Of The Two Basic Lace Techniques, Santina Levey, Milton Sonday
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
According to the present understanding of the term, lace is a soft pliable fabric, most often white, with a pattern composed of solid and open areas, made either with a needle and thread in a looped structure or with a variable number of threads wound on bobbins and interlaced in a form of braiding. Laces matching that description survive from the mid 17th century onward, with some needle and bobbin-made examples that at first glance appear indistinguishable. Yet each of these totally unrelated techniques has its own history. The purpose of our project is to trace how it happened that …
The Influence Of Computer Technologies On Contemporary Woven Fiber Art, Cynthia Schira
The Influence Of Computer Technologies On Contemporary Woven Fiber Art, Cynthia Schira
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
It is generally agreed upon, by both the participants in the field and those few who have chronicled it, that the fiber art movement as we know it today began with Jean Lurcat in France in the late 1950s. He was among the first, if not the first, to make designs or cartoons specifically for the medium of tapestry. Previously, paintings were translated into the medium of tapestry. As well as creating the design or cartoon, he personally oversaw the actual weaving process. This direct connection between the process and the concept or image, the manual and the mind, laid …
The Pomegranate Pattern In Italian Renaissance Textiles: Origins And Influence, Rosalia Bonito Fanelli
The Pomegranate Pattern In Italian Renaissance Textiles: Origins And Influence, Rosalia Bonito Fanelli
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The term "pomegranate motif" includes a series of vegetal patterns—the pine cone, the artichoke, the thistle, variants of the tree-of-life motif, and, in particular, the lotus and the palmette. These last two patterns were closely studied by Alois Riegl in his 1893 work Stilfragen (Problems of Style). The term itself came into use during the period of historic revivalism in the latter half of the nineteenth century. At that time important design theorists and practitioners such as Owen Jones, William Morris, and Walter Crane dedicated space in their writings with accompanying plates to the reconstruction of Renaissance pomegranate patterns. The …
Byzantine Influences Along The Silk Route: Central Asian Silks Transformed, Anna Maria Muthesius
Byzantine Influences Along The Silk Route: Central Asian Silks Transformed, Anna Maria Muthesius
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Silks traded along the ancient Silk Route were precious, light, and easily transportable commodities that served as ideal vehicles for cross-cultural exchange. The survival of several hundred Central Asian silks, variously datable between the seventh and the eleventh centuries, presents an opportunity to trace patterns of trade, diplomacy and cross-cultural developments at the heart of the Silk Road. These silks perfectly mirror contact, cross over, and change fostered under the auspices of Mediterranean/Near Eastern economic and diplomatic exchange.
This paper will ask three questions:
1. What lay behind Byzantine influence in Central Asia along the ancient Silk Route?
2. What …
Raphael’S Acts Of The Apostles Tapestries: The Birth Of The Tapestry Reproduction System, Marjorie Durko Puryear
Raphael’S Acts Of The Apostles Tapestries: The Birth Of The Tapestry Reproduction System, Marjorie Durko Puryear
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
As a younger fiber artist at the beginning of my teaching career, I rarely found European tapestries of the 16th through 18th centuries to be more than copies of paintings in a woven mask. The weaver's hand and spirit were only apparent in finite details which were resplendent with meticulous hatching, shading, and delicate slit work, unchanged from the Medieval past. But it was against my art school training to separate art concept from process. I wasn't ready to accept that the weavers were not the artists, and that tapestry was in fact an industry.
More recently, my point of …
The Assimilation Of European Designs Into Twentieth Century Indian Saris, Linda Lynton
The Assimilation Of European Designs Into Twentieth Century Indian Saris, Linda Lynton
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Although so-called "Indian" designs of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century chintzes influenced Western European [Western] textiles almost from their introduction, Western patterns did not impinge on indigenous Indian fabrics, such as saris, until the last half of the nineteenth century.
They were superimposed upon an already complex mix of textile ornamental styles, which can be briefly categorized as: (i) Mughal, (ii) Hindu, and (iii) adivasi (aboriginal). The Mughal style consists of the elaborately patterned prints and brocades typical of western India. It shows strong Persian influences, such as the kalga (Paisley motif); intertwining floral vines (bel); and life-like depictions of …
New Twist On Shibori: How An Old Tradition Survives In The New World When Japanese Wooden Poles Are Replaced By American Pvc Pipes, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada
New Twist On Shibori: How An Old Tradition Survives In The New World When Japanese Wooden Poles Are Replaced By American Pvc Pipes, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The subject of my talk is arashi shibori or pole wrap resist Although at times it is hard to recognize some arashi effects as such, technically arashi shibori is one of many forms of tie-dye. After thirty years of its exploration through art-to-wear, dyed and painted tapestries, three dimensional sculptures, and mixed media in the United States, various forms of tie-dye have now become part of the lexicon of American fabric design and fiberarts vocabulary.
On the one hand, there has been much effort by textile specialists to circumvent the term "tie-dye," due to its association with the Grateful Dead, …
From Bohemian To Bourgeois: American Batik In The Early Twentieth Century, Nicola J. Shilliam
From Bohemian To Bourgeois: American Batik In The Early Twentieth Century, Nicola J. Shilliam
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
In 1919 Pieter Mijer wrote in his influential book Batiks and How to Make Them, "Batik is still a comparatively recent importation; brought here some ten years ago, it was met with absolute incomprehension and lack of interest, but its real merit as a means of decorating fabrics has earned it a place in the industrial art of the nation and year by year it is gaining wider recognition."
This paper briefly considers the rise and fall in popularity of batik in America in the period Mijer indicated: how it changed from being a foreign import chiefly seen in …
Charmingly Quaint And Still Modern: The Paradox Of Colonial Revival Needlework In America, 1875–1940, Beverly Gordon
Charmingly Quaint And Still Modern: The Paradox Of Colonial Revival Needlework In America, 1875–1940, Beverly Gordon
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Despite the self-conscious modernism of the early 20th century, American needlework was filled with images of flower baskets, cozy cottages, spinning wheels, and women in hoopskirts. It was dominated by seemingly old-fashioned and "quaint" techniques, such as cross stitch, patchwork, crewel, and rug hooking. In an era with teeming cities, radio, and cars pouring off the assembly line, needlework came to stand for a romanticized, seemingly simpler and nobler American past. And in an era when women were winning the vote and re-entering the professional work force, needleworkers, in turn, became identified with the domestic homebody of the past. In …
Paracas Cavernas, Paracas Necroplis, And Ocucaje: Looking At Appropriation And Identity With Only Material Remains, Ann Peters
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Paracas Cavernas, Paracas Necropolis, and Ocucaje are groups of burials made some 2000 years ago on the south coast of Peru. The Peruvian coast is a desert, and textiles, basketry, and other artifacts made from plant fiber and animal fiber and other organic materials are preserved there in ancient tombs. The Andes is known for funerary traditions that emphasize the dressing of the dead, with documented preservation of mummified ancestors or funerary bundles, and in some cases their participation as ancestors in kin group and community ritual.
. . .
It is clear that there are continuing relations of contact, …
(Re-)Fashioning Identity: Late Twentieth-Century Transformations In Dress And Society In Boliva, Elayne Zorn
(Re-)Fashioning Identity: Late Twentieth-Century Transformations In Dress And Society In Boliva, Elayne Zorn
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The members of most of Bolivia's large indigenous ethnic groups, such as the nearly 22,000 people of ayllu Sakaka of northern Potosi, continue to wear a distinctive daily dress. Such dress nationally and internationally is emblematic of the Sakaka's separate, and to many inferior, identity as Indians. To the wearers also, or perhaps fundamentally, such dress marks a division between clothed indigenous humans (runa) and naked foreign outsiders (q'ara). This interpretation coincides with hegemonic non-Indian evaluations of Indian separateness, but reverses the hierarchy.
Yet most members of these large indigenous ethnic groups, whom I refer to …
Peter Krasnow: Sculptor And Draftsman, Nora Eccles Harrison Museum Of Art
Peter Krasnow: Sculptor And Draftsman, Nora Eccles Harrison Museum Of Art
Exhibit Catalogues
Peter Krasnow was identified as a significant contributor to the ideas of modernism which were manifested in architecture, painting, sculpture, literature, and movie making.
The Body Temple, Laura Davidson, Special Collections, Fleet Library
The Body Temple, Laura Davidson, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Artists' Books
sculptural, hinged panels unfold to create a 3 dimensional architectural "temple"; exquisite corpse; box exterior; first opening; side views; angled viewss. Classical and Renaissance architects used parts of the human body as metaphors and inspiration for designing buildings.
A Hypothetical Analysis Of The Twinkle In Stars: (As Told By A Child To A Teacher), Katherine Ng, Special Collections, Fleet Library
A Hypothetical Analysis Of The Twinkle In Stars: (As Told By A Child To A Teacher), Katherine Ng, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Artists' Books
1 art work : color illustration. Consists of a single sheet of paper (5 x 64 cm.) folded into a pentagonal shape (9 cm.) that stores five folded paper colored stars (1-2 cm.) permanently constructed in the same manner. "Book structure based on the wishing stars (lucky stars) from Hong Kong. Handset in Centaur, letterpress printed on Mohawk"--Colophon. Library has copy 92 of 100. Initialed by the author. Curated title for Fleet Library Special Collections exhibition By Hand: Women & Books Exhibit fall, 2021.
A Passage, Buzz Spector, Special Collections, Fleet Library
A Passage, Buzz Spector, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Artists' Books
case bound in hard cover with silk covered boards; cover; top view of text block; interior pages and spreads, detail; colophon. Book consists of 181 identical pages bound and torn vertically by the artist. The page stubs gradually increase and the resulting text block forms a triangular shape. Content of the text is blurry until the full pages can be completely read. Curated title for Fleet Library Special Collections exhibition Stacked & Altered, summer 2022.
Index To The Encyclopedia, Scott Mccarney, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Index To The Encyclopedia, Scott Mccarney, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Artists' Books
perfect bound with soft cover, cover image foil stamped; cover; interior page and spreads. This book, though an artist book in itself, functions as an Index to "The Encyclopedia" a separate but related sculptural bookwork.
Reminder: An Open Book Test, Wilber Chip Schilling, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Reminder: An Open Book Test, Wilber Chip Schilling, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Artists' Books
accordion fold with 2 slipcases, one of which looks like the top of a pack of Marlboro cigarettes. Cover; interior pages, accordions, folded out; detail. Self-guided test to determine personality through color with an underlying suggestion that smoking addiction can be predicted based on psychological testing.
Measure Up, Ruth Laxson, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Measure Up, Ruth Laxson, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Ruth Laxson Artist Book Archive
[26] pages : ill. (some color) Cover title. "This book is no. 6"--Colophon. Signed by the artist. "Intaglio, aquatint, and chine colle - with typography. Printed summer 1994."--Colophon.
You Must Assimilate The Shifts In Perspective, Steven Hoskins, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker
You Must Assimilate The Shifts In Perspective, Steven Hoskins, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker
Culture
This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class.
India, Falza Khanani, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker
India, Falza Khanani, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker
Culture
This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class.
Keeping Things Whole, Anne Chequer, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Keeping Things Whole, Anne Chequer, Special Collections, Fleet Library
Artists' Books
14 pages. Title from cover. Edition of ten numbered copies. "Designed by Anne Chequer, Printed Books, RISD, Fall 1984, Text by Mark Strand."--Colophon. Cover and text pages made with heavy black craft paper. Text printed in black on white strips of paper. Accordion fold. This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class. Library has copy no. 2. Gift of Jan Baker.
Pictures On Stone: American Color Lithography, Daphne A. Deeds
Pictures On Stone: American Color Lithography, Daphne A. Deeds
Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications
Art is often defined as the mirror of society. Chromolithography fulfills that defmition because it was invented in response to the changing demographics of post -Civil War America. During the period 1860-1900 a variety of social changes transformed America from a small agrarian society to a giant industrial nation poised on the brink of joining the modem international world. Many aspects of American life were imbued with an egalitarian spirit. The new democracy was especially evident in the reformed educational system. For the first time in U.S. history, public schools were mandated for all U.S. children, and land-grant universities (including …
Synthesis As A Method For Elaboration, Polly Johnson
Synthesis As A Method For Elaboration, Polly Johnson
Theses and Dissertations
Before I began this thesis, I examined my previous work and a consistent quality emerged. l tended to assemble (synthesize) things (entities) that were seemingly unlike (disparate). I q u e s t i o n e d my approach and its validity as a design methodology.
I found, through investigation into the nature of my p r o c e s s and the process of other artists and designers that specific methods of synthesis could be defined. In this thesis I have outlined three synthesis methodologies. They are not the only methods that exist, but were the ones …
African-American Influence On The Chesapeake Bay Log Canoe: Evidence From Nineteenth Century Probate Inventories And Population Census Records Of York County, Virginia And Worcester County, Maryland, Albert James M. Mamary
African-American Influence On The Chesapeake Bay Log Canoe: Evidence From Nineteenth Century Probate Inventories And Population Census Records Of York County, Virginia And Worcester County, Maryland, Albert James M. Mamary
Dissertations, Theses, and Masters Projects
No abstract provided.
Tobacco And Cloth: A Century Of Virginia Clothing Acquisition 1607-1707, Barbara Anne Curran
Tobacco And Cloth: A Century Of Virginia Clothing Acquisition 1607-1707, Barbara Anne Curran
Dissertations, Theses, and Masters Projects
No abstract provided.