Art and Design Commons^™

Japanese Fashion Legacies, Emily C. Guerry, Patricia B. Metcalf

Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

Exploration of Japan's contributions to fashion is highlighted in our research presentation. Silhouettes, textiles, and accessories that originated in ancient Japanese culture are analyzed throughout their evolution. From these findings, a 10-piece capsule collection was made to bring these ideas further into the modern day. We displayed them from traditional to modern to highlight this evolution through the culture. Popular garments such as the Kimono were used as inspiration for details such as thick belts, ties, and wrap-style shirts. Additionally, the textile stitching technique, Sashiko, is a main source of inspiration in the collection. Sashiko started as a mending technique …

The American Debate Over Women’S Fashion In The Roaring ’20s, Hailey Downey

Development of Western Civilization Student Scholarship

Hailey Downey ’24
Major: Health Policy and Management
Faculty Mentor: Dr. Darra Mulderry, Center for Engaged Learning

After the Great War, Americans embraced change, especially women who had taken on a greater role at home during the war. As women gained more independence through the right to vote and roles outside of the house, their style choices reflected their lifestyle changes. Women would no longer be burdened by male-dominated government and societal restrictions. Their fashion cast of the added weight, demonstrated by lighter and shorter clothing styles, hairstyles, and a more liberal use of makeup.

Through the 20’s, women continued …

A Comparative Life Cycle Assessment Of Cork Versus Traditional Shoe Insole Material, Alexandra Lum

Independent Study Project (ISP) Collection

Shoes are conventionally produced from materials like plastic or rubber that have detrimental impacts on the environment such as exacerbating existing waste accumulation, increasing global amounts of greenhouse gasses, or releasing toxic chemicals into soils and groundwater. These impacts have pushed footwear companies to introduce more sustainable and ecologically-friendly materials in their products. Roughly half of all cork production occurs in Portugal. The present work employs a comparative life cycle assessment approach between traditional plastic and rubber insole material and cork insole material to investigate the environmental impact of each. Results show that during each stage of the insole life …

The Role Of Worker-Driven Regulation In The Global Fashion Industry, Jessie Wills

Independent Study Project (ISP) Collection

The global fashion industry continues to exploit workers at the bottom of its supply chains. Multinational brands pressure manufacturers to churn out products at increasingly fast rates for increasingly cheaper costs. Severe problems persist in enforcing labor standards in these factories, and methods like voluntary corporate social responsibility are aspirational at best. A newer method of enforcement, worker-driven regulation (WDR), shows promise in its improved enforceability methods and focus on worker voices. The main research question of this paper is: What are the conditions that trigger and sustain worker-driven regulation at the factory level in the apparel industry?

Research methods …

Exploring The Influence Of Globalization And Self-Expression In Shaping The Vietnamese Lgbtq+ Community In Urban Vietnam, Minh-Thy Tyler

Independent Study Project (ISP) Collection

The LGBTQ+ community is estimated to make up around 9% to 11% of Vietnam’s total population. Over the past few decades, Vietnam has undergone significant changes, marked by its increasing interconnectedness with the global community. These changes have also brought about a shift in perceptions and advocacy toward the LGBTQ+ community. Also bringing along a change in attitude towards the LGBTQ+ community in Vietnam is self-expression and fashion. Through drag or wearing gender-nonconforming attire, queer individuals are able to challenge the restrictive gender binary prevalent in Vietnamese society. Self-expression and fashion are also critical in helping queer individuals form and …

Study Of Fashion And Politics, Jacqueline Arena

Library Award for Outstanding Undergraduate Research

The purpose of this research is to analyze the way fashion has been used as a vessel for

political statements; specifically through studying the work of artists Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander Mcqueen and Vivienne Westwood. Gaultier and Mcqueen showcased shocking collections that caught the public eye by testing gender boundaries and reflecting historical events. Westwood’s work was a protest, and she was an activist. The sources included highlight the success of these unique designers. Furthermore, the research evaluates how political statements by fashion designers have become harmful because today newer designers are vying for the success of trailblazers such as …

Romantic And Victorian Era: Fashion Reimagined, Sara E. Pacheco

Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

This venture was about reimaginations of the Romantic and Victorian era fashion through the person of Audrey Hepburn, a famous 1960’s Movie star. The Romantic and Victorian eras were chosen because of their similarities and the beauty of those eras in expressing femininity for women. The colors served as a main source of inspiration because they conveyed a feminine vintage feel for the garments. Additionally, inspiration was drawn from the patterns and textures of fabric, especially silk textiles whose satin finish complemented the shiny, smooth, and silky feel of the fabrics. The reimagined fashion images on display illustrate how a …

African American Fashion Legacies, Yasmeen Orozco

Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

This was an exploration of how African American Designers, former and current have contributed to fashion legacies. Key points that will be presented will be – brief biographies of seven African American designers, that covers their upbringing, education, and their fashion legacies. The seven fashion designers that will be discussed include - Patrick Kelly, Willie Smith, Anna Lowe, Stephine Burrows, Laquan Smith, Dapper Dan, and Zelda Wynn Valdes.

The study further features fashion trends that originated from the African American community. Notably, African Americans have been a pioneering force with creative styles that have been ignored and rebutted. Finally, the …

A Modern Twist Based On The 17th Century And Victorian Era, Kenzie Styles

Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

This project was an exploration of the 17th Century and Victorian styles with a modern twist to suit Cher, who is an iconic famous signer and actress, in her teens and early 20s. Most of the inspiration for the designs was taken from undergarments and silhouettes inspired by both eras. As well as light feminine colors inspired by the eras, combined with dark greens and blues to create a modern effect. Details of the garments include lace and embroidery inspired by the artwork of the 17th century.

Between Specificity And Myth: An Analysis Of Carlos Mérida's 'Mexican Costume', Sofia Ortega-Guerrero

Kaplan Senior Essay Prize for Use of Library Special Collections

Sitting evenly upon close-toothed paper, vivid pigments compose harmonies of color and form (Fig. 1). Lines of cerulean wiggle upon a velvety cobalt blue. Between crisp boundaries of ink, veins of the white folio carve out a lattice and tapered fringe to impart legibility: a striped, blue shawl generously cloaks a figure, who nearly disappears beneath her dress. Cinched by a violet-vermillion belt, three bunches of black and white pleats fold in rhythmic lines. A small, low-heeled shoe peeks from below the voluminous skirt, recalling the figure beneath the fabric. From the abundant shawl, a head emerges in profile with …

You Need This: Global Fast Fashion, Environment, And Consumption Culture, Alexandra Lamm

Student Work

In looking at how global production of clothing has increased and shifted, we see the impacts in places like workers rights, environmental issues and cultural consumption. Although vastly different, through examination we will see how all are intrinsically linked. We have reached a truly global economy, and even when threatened with negative consequences of mass consumption in our daily lives, the road to actual change in the fashion industry becomes harder in time due to our dependency on the industry as a whole.

Vivienne Westwood And The Socio-Political Nature Of Punk, Ashley Rosato

Honors College Theses

Punk fashion, which helped define the punk movement in the 1970s, has been ever changing as it adapts to modern times. Before it was the watered-down, mainstream mass-produced aesthetic that it is today, punk style was full of counterculture meaning and signs that communicated counter-hegemonic ideologies to the public. Vivienne Westwood, one of the contributors to early punk culture and the mother of British punk style, designed clothing that was central to the ethos of the early punk movement. Through a semiotic analysis of five of Westwood’s designs from the 1970s, this study aims to demonstrate how Westwood’s early punk …

Sustainable Fashion Design Exploration: Transformation To Zero-Wash, Colleen Moretz

Sustainable Fashion Design Exploration

Sustainability has been at the center of my scholarship across the apparel and textile disciplines. Focusing my creative design scholarship on sustainability generates awareness of sustainable issues within the apparel industry to hopefully encourage change in fashion practices. This concentration on sustainability has been an evolution of investigating sustainable design processes through the exploration of transformation, aesthetics, zero waste, and up-cycling.

Taylor, Carrie (Burnam), 1855-1917 (Sc 3639), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

MSS Finding Aids

Finding aid and scan (Click on "Additional Files" below) for Manuscripts Small Collection 3639. Postcard advertising the spring opening, 10 February 1915, of the Mrs. A. H. Taylor Company, Bowling Green, Kentucky, inviting patrons to inspect fabrics and designs and offering samples by mail.

The Met Costume Institute: Evolution, Metamorphosis, And Cultural Phenomenon, Shelby Kanski

Senior Honors Projects

No abstract provided.

The Death Of Print Magazines In Fashion: The Fight To Stay Relevant During The Digital Era And A Look At The Future Of Fashion Print Magazines, Mary Shannon Donnelly

Honors College Theses

We have found ourselves in a digital era. For the past ten years, the public’s Internet usage per day has skyrocketed across all age groups, which in turn, has had an effect on the print industry (e.g. books, magazines, newspapers). As technology has progressed, many have turned to online magazines and journals to receive their fashion news. Given this rapid advance in digital technology, in my honors thesis, I plan to focus on the effect of digital media on print, specifically in the context of fashion magazines. Specifically, I will explore the history of the fashion magazine, its efforts to …

Sewing And Dressmaking In Martha Mcmillan's Day (1891), Elizabeth G. Allen

Martha McMillan Research Papers

This paper describes the process of sewing and dressmaking in America from the mid 1800s to the early 1900s and provides historical context for Martha McMillan's discussion of sewing and dressmaking in her 1891 journal.

An Inquiry Into Gradable Zero-Waste Apparel Design, Melanie Carrico, Sheri Dragoo, Ellen Mckinney, Casey Stannard, Colleen Moretz, Ashley Rougeaux-Burnes

Faculty & Staff Scholarship

he implementation of standardized grading production practices within the mass market has been challenging for scholars experimenting with zero-waste apparel design. The purpose of this research was to test the efficacy of the Carrico Zero-waste Banded Grading (CZWBG) technique, which utilizes bands inserted in strategic locations as a method of grading zero-waste patterns across various consumer categories. An additional purpose was to evaluate the ways in which this grading approach affected the aesthetic outcomes of garments across a size run, and to determine whether this method affected the overall design process of the designers involved. Through experimental research design, six …

The Influence Of Shoe And Cleat Type On Lower Extremity Muscle Activation In Youth Baseball Pitchers, Jacob R. Gdovin, Chip Wade, Lauren A. Luginsland, Charles C. Williams, Riley Galloway, John C. Garner

Human Movement Sciences Faculty Publications

Background: Baseball pitching is a dynamic movement where the lower extremities generate and sequentially transfer energy to the upper extremities to maximize ball velocity. The need for lower body muscular strength to produce adequate push-off and landing forces has been documented; however, the influence footwear and surface inclination has on muscle activation remains unknown.

Objectives: Determine how pitching in molded cleats and turf shoes from a pitching mound and flat ground affects stride-leg muscle activation in youth baseball pitchers while determining percent activation during each pitching phase.

Methods: Cross – sectional study analyzing mean muscle activity and percent activation of …

Can I Touch The Clothes On The Screen? The Touch Effect In Online Shopping, Ha Kyung Lee, Dooyoung Choi

STEMPS Faculty Publications

We examined the interplay effects of device types (touch vs. non-touch) and the tactile sensitivity (fur vs. woven) on the product attitudes mediated by the mental simulation for touch. The participants from MTurk were randomly assigned to one of two tactile conditions. Responses from those who used tablets (n=83, touch device) and laptops (n=96, non-touch device) were included in the analysis. The main effects of device types and tactile-sensitivity on the mental simulation for touch were significant. The interaction effect of device types and tactile sensitivity was also significant. Those participants seeing the less tactile-sensitive product showed greater mental simulation …

The King’S Fashion Reimagined, Callie J. Reeder

Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

Callie Reeder

The King’s Fashion Reimagined

This was a venture to reimagine the fashion of Elvis Presley, the king of rock and roll in the 1970s. Elvis was known for the bold jumpsuits he often wore while performing. His fashion style was reimagined through the lens of upper-class 18th century styles. The 18th century gave us permission to be luxurious. The18th century elements such as the ditto suit and cravat were combined with 1970s jumpsuits and bell bottoms to create a whimsical reimagined collection of stage costumes.

Relationships Between Dress And Gender Identity: Lgbtqia+, Alyssa Dana Adomaitis, Diana Saiki, Kim K. P. Johnson, Rafi Sahanoor, Arsha Attique

Publications and Research

No abstract provided.

Printed Repeat Pattern Development For Textiles: Design Theory And Process, Erin Kelly

Honors Theses

I created a collection of fifteen printed repeat patterns accompanied by a written description of the research and development process as a creative project to fulfill the requirements of a Senior Honors Project. Looking at this project from a traditional research standpoint, I sought out to answer several questions that would help me to develop as a textile artist. How do you find current, up-to-date, relevant trends, both ideological (macro) and material (micro)? How do you take these trends and communicate them visually, in an original fashion? How do you produce a collection of designs that is both diverse and …

Appropriation Of Artisans' Intellectual Property In Fashion Design Accessories: Piracy Disguised As Giving Back?, Clovia Hamilton

Technology & Society Faculty Publications

Creative industries are industries focused on the creation and exploitation of intellectual propert, including art, fashion design, and related creative services, such as advertisement and sales. During a trip to Burkina Faso in \Nest Africa, Keri Fosse was taught by an African woman how to wrap newborns with fabric in a manner that creates a strong bond and frees the mother's hands for other tasks. Burkina Faso has a craft culture and is known for its woven cotton and the textile art of Bogolan. Bogolan is a technique original to Mali and involves the tradition of dyeing threads with bright …

Final Experiential Learning Report: The Stratford Festival Archives & Ecuador Women’S Empowerment Trip, Julia Campbell

SASAH 4th Year Capstone and Other Projects: Publications

To fulfil my SASAH experiential-learning requirement, I worked as an intern at the Stratford Festival Archives in 2017 and travelled to Ecuador as part of a Women’s Empowerment trip in 2018. At the Festival, my colleague and I were responsible for designing the Archives’ first-ever digital catalogue. We researched the provenance of each costume piece, which often included looking through design bibles and conducting informal interviews. We then photographed and wrote detailed descriptions for each costume piece. By the end of the summer, my colleague and I had written over 300 complete entries, laying the groundwork for future interns. My …

History Through Fashion: The 2020 Collection, Alex Wiecking

WWU Honors College Senior Projects

When analyzing historical trajectory, it is essential to acknowledge that events are neither isolated nor spontaneous; rather, they are points on a dynamic historical continuum. Because these phenomena are often intangible, their public invisibility can be conflated with nonexistence. However, “History Through Fashion: The 2020 Collection” seeks to reimagine the history of 2020 as a wearable, material art. In doing so, the collection will not only increase the perceptibility of historical trends and human agency, but will rebrand history as an active and interdisciplinary domain.

Investigating How Qipao And Hanfu Dresses Are Representative Of China, Jennifer Tibberts

Senior Honors Theses

This research investigates why hanfu and qipao represent the nation of China. Previous sources have described the dresses, Chinese history, and Chinese fashion aesthetics, and have questioned why many people wear these dresses today. However, previous studies have not investigated what aspects of hanfu and qipao make both Chinese people and outsiders associate these dresses so strongly with China. This research looks deeply into the importance of fashion to expression of identity, characteristics and ideals of Chinese clothing, what hanfu and qipao are, how the dresses connect with Chinese history and traditions, and why the styles have phased in and …

Prejudiced Commodities: Understanding Knowledge Transfer From India To Britain Through Printed And Painted Calicoes, 1720-1780, Aditi Khare

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The eighteenth-century trade in calico between Europe and India was a function of global textile manufacture, exchange, and consumption on multiple levels. This trade had several political, cultural, and economic consequences— the most important of which, I suggest, was the transfer of useful knowledge from artisanal oral textile traditions in India to the receptive, commercial, and nascent cotton printing industry in Europe.

This paper explores the contribution of Indian cotton printing knowledge towards the development of Europe’s cotton industry and, consequently, its dissemination through European knowledge networks. In particular, the largely overlooked chemical knowledge pertaining to dyes and mordants responsible …

Arpilleras The Vessels Of Chile’S Resistance, Soledad Fátima Muñoz

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Most historians locate the beginning of the Chilean military government after the coup d’etat, which overthrew democratically elected President Salvador Allende, on September 11, 1973. However, I would like to focus on the ideological background that preceded this era through the investigation of arpilleras and their relationship to Western academic institutions in the making and writing of history—more specifically, to the University of Chicago as the “Ideological State Apparatus” responsible for the implementation of neoliberalism in Chile.

Arpilleras are patchwork-based textiles of narrative imagery, made with a technique of applique and embroidery on a burlap background. They are produced in …

Colcha Circle: A Stitch In Northern New Mexico Culture, Olimpia Newman, Rebecca Abrams

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Colcha embroidery is folk art, characteristic of northern New Mexico history, traditions, and a form of cultural expression that has not been researched and documented sufficiently. It has been practiced in private homes and small circles as a result of commissions or economic development programs, as has also been the case in the San Luis Valley, Colorado. Despite the exposure offered by local markets and demonstrations during events in New Mexico, the embroidery is in many ways an unknown technique, even to the next generation.

This video captures a candid discussion among eleven colcha artists, some of whom are entering …