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Full-Text Articles in Art and Design

The Saudi Arabian Bride Shopping Experience, Wijdan Tawfiq Jan 2019

The Saudi Arabian Bride Shopping Experience, Wijdan Tawfiq

Graduate Theses and Dissertations

In Saudi Arabia, a wedding is a significant occasion requiring extensive preparation. However, researchers have not yet explored how bride-to-be consumption patterns might be shaped in a tradition-oriented culture like Saudi Arabia. Prior literature illustrates that planning a wedding in Western societies is a personal, deeply emotional experience in which tradition and cultural values are strongly emphasized (Carter & Duncan, 2017; Nelson & Deshpande, 2004; McEnally, 2002; Thomas & Peters, 2011). The purpose of this study was to explore the experiences of Saudi brides-to-be as they prepared for the wedding process – including the multiple social events planned around their weddings as well as their new lives after ...


“I Knew The Mechanics Of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies In The Works Of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979, Denise Nicole Green, Susan B. Kaiser, Kyra Streck, Kelsie Nicole Doty Jan 2018

“I Knew The Mechanics Of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies In The Works Of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979, Denise Nicole Green, Susan B. Kaiser, Kyra Streck, Kelsie Nicole Doty

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Since the late 1960s, Joni Mitchell has been best known for her remarkable music: her voice, compelling lyrics, and unusual guitar tunings, all of which have conveyed sentiments of her generation and have remained relevant to later generations. Although her lyrics and album covers are replete with references to fashion, textiles, dress, and appearance, they have not been critically analyzed in relation to her status as a cultural icon. The fashion industry is clearly aware of this status, as evidenced, for example, by her inclusion in a 2015 Yves St. Laurent campaign. In our study, we ask: (1) What does ...


Regional Cultural Differences In China Reflected On Men's Traditional Costumes, Leilei Jia, Yingjiao Xu, Hui'e Liang Jan 2018

Regional Cultural Differences In China Reflected On Men's Traditional Costumes, Leilei Jia, Yingjiao Xu, Hui'e Liang

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Notable differences were observed between the northern and southern regions of China in many different aspects, including lifestyles, personality, and culture. The main purpose of this study was to examine the Chinese North-South culture difference through a particular cultural item- man’s costume during the Modern Time in China. A convenience sample of 119 cross-shaped plane folk man’s costumes were used in this study. Using T-test analyses, the costumes were first compared on the structure and then a qualitative approach was taken to compare the color and pattern of the costumes between the North and the South. Significant differences ...


Using Historic Costume Collection Artifacts For Active Learning Of Strapless Eveningwear Internal Structure, Ellen Mckinney, Sunhyung Cho Jan 2018

Using Historic Costume Collection Artifacts For Active Learning Of Strapless Eveningwear Internal Structure, Ellen Mckinney, Sunhyung Cho

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Most students lack practical experiences with constructing the internal structure such as underlining, boning, and waist stays are essential to support strapless dresses (Khalje, 1997). Therefore, these concepts were taught in a junior-level draping course, which covered eveningwear. Active learning through analysis of examples is an effective way for students to more deeply understand new knowledge (Johnson, Johnson, & Smith, 1991), so we sought to teach these concepts through a combination of lecture and active learning, looking inside garments to analyze their internal structures. However, student closets rarely contain garments that exemplify the diversity of methods and materials that can be ...


Cheyenne Odyssey: Representing Removal In An Educational Video Game, Christina Gish Hill Jan 2018

Cheyenne Odyssey: Representing Removal In An Educational Video Game, Christina Gish Hill

World Languages and Cultures Publications

This articles reflects on the process of creating digital media in collaboration with Native communities, using the example of Cheyenne Odyssey, a game from Mission US, to argue that such media can illuminate the perspectives of Indigenous peoples for a wide audience while also creating digital repositories for both visual and narrative forms of knowledge. This game takes on the difficult challenge of portraying very sensitive moments of US history to middle school-age children. The game walks the player through the Battle of Little Big Horn, the forced removal of the Northern Cheyenne people, their harrowing journey home again, and ...


Amelia Gayle Gorgas: A Study Of The Woman And Her Dress, Chalise Ludlow, Virginia Wimberley Jan 2018

Amelia Gayle Gorgas: A Study Of The Woman And Her Dress, Chalise Ludlow, Virginia Wimberley

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This study was an attempt to reconstruct the original pleating of the deconstructed skirt which was part of a three piece day dress made of striped moire' taffeta. There are folds and tiny stitching lines from the waistband attachment but there is no clear indication of the depth of the original pleats. Five garments from a university collection were studied for waistline pleating. The mock-up has inverted box pleats on each side of center front, an inverted box pleat at side seam and set of four double-stacked pleats on either side of center back, giving the fullness that was popular ...


Meaning And Symbolism In Bridal Costumes In Western Saudi Arabia, Wijdan A. Tawfiq, Sara B. Marcketti Jul 2017

Meaning And Symbolism In Bridal Costumes In Western Saudi Arabia, Wijdan A. Tawfiq, Sara B. Marcketti

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

The western region of Saudi Arabia has its own unique traditional bridal garments. Little is known about these bridal costumes because they are handmade by a few families in the region. The purpose of this study was to investigate the history, significance, and meaning of the Hijazi bridal costumes. Symbolic interactionism was the theoretical starting point of this study. Qualitative data were collected via in-depth interviews from 22 married Saudi women. A purposive, snowball sampling strategy was used. The data were analyzed using the Miles and Huberman process. Four key themes emerged including (a) physical appearance and process of wearing ...


The Development Of The Designer Children's Wear Industry, 1920-1969, Jennifer Farley Gordon Jan 2016

The Development Of The Designer Children's Wear Industry, 1920-1969, Jennifer Farley Gordon

Graduate Theses and Dissertations

This research investigates the development of the children's ready-to-wear industry between 1920 and 1969 from the point-of-view of industry insiders, including significant manufacturers, designers, and trade journalists. The goal of this study was to analyze an idea proposed by industry designer Robert Love during the mid-1960s. Love believed that the first two phases of the evolution of the children's wear industry were (1) the establishment of large children's ready-to-wear manufacturing firms; and (2) the growth in influence of children's wear specialist designers during the 1950s and 1960s. This study draws from the history of children's ...


Hair And Beauty Choices Of African American Women During The Civil Rights Movement, 1960-1974, Ashley R. Garrin Jan 2016

Hair And Beauty Choices Of African American Women During The Civil Rights Movement, 1960-1974, Ashley R. Garrin

Graduate Theses and Dissertations

This research examined the Civil Rights Movement, specifically focusing on hair and beauty choices of African American women who were emerging adults (ages 18-25), between the years 1960-1974, which bridges both the classical period of the Civil Rights Movement and that of Black Power politics (Wilson, 2013). The specific time period corresponds with the adoption of African American hairstyles that were more Afrocentric, following the social climate of Black Pride (Walker, 2007). To achieve understanding of African American women's perspectives, seven participants were interviewed using Seidman's (2013) protocol for which a three-part, in-depth interview series was conducted. The ...


George Washington Carver: Textile Artist, Eulanda A. Sanders, Chanmi Hwang Sep 2014

George Washington Carver: Textile Artist, Eulanda A. Sanders, Chanmi Hwang

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Conference Proceedings and Presentations

Born a slave, George Washington Carver (1864-1943) is one of the most historically prominent African American scientists. Carver was a pioneer as an agriculturalist and botanist by introducing methods of soil conservation for farmers, inventing hundreds of by-products from peanuts, pecans, sweet potatoes, and soybeans, and practicing “zero waste” sustainability. Scholars have recognized Carver’s talent as a painter and his ability to develop paints and dyes from various natural sources; however, there is very little scholarship documenting his work as a textile artist. Holdings at the G.W. Carver National Monument and Tuskegee Institute National Historic indicate that Carver ...


"The New Costumes Of Odd Sizes:" Plus Sized Women's Fashions, 1910-1924, Carmen Nicole Keist Jan 2012

"The New Costumes Of Odd Sizes:" Plus Sized Women's Fashions, 1910-1924, Carmen Nicole Keist

Graduate Theses and Dissertations

The purpose of this research was to examine the fashionable styles available to women in the 1910s and 1920s, the advice, both prescriptive and proscriptive, given to plus sized women in the 1910 and the 1920s, and the apparel-related patents issued during the 1910s to 1929 to aid the plus sized woman. Primary sources analyzed included The New York Times, Vogue, Good Housekeeping, and utility patents. They provided multiple viewpoints regarding the plus sized woman during this period. The percentage of larger women grew during the early twentieth century, and it was estimated that by 1916 there were over 13 ...


The Story Of A Collector: Research And Exhibition Of One Woman's Passion For Fashion, Jean L. Parsons, Sara B. Marcketti Nov 2011

The Story Of A Collector: Research And Exhibition Of One Woman's Passion For Fashion, Jean L. Parsons, Sara B. Marcketti

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Conference Proceedings and Presentations

This paper focuses on the donation of one woman's historic fashion collection to the museum of a major land grant institution, and the initial research and exhibition the collection generated.


Representations Of The Antonine Empresses On The Nymphaeum In Olympia, Rachel Meyers Jan 2009

Representations Of The Antonine Empresses On The Nymphaeum In Olympia, Rachel Meyers

World Languages and Cultures Publications

Although sculpted portraits often receive more scholarly attention than the statue bodies they were set into, the different types of statue bodies can reveal more information about the portrait statue as a whole. This paper examines the Nymphaeum in Olympia, a monument which originally included an impressive array of statues of the imperial family as well as the family of its commissioner, Herodes Atticus. By analyzing the statue type of each individual represented, I show that, although the male members of the imperial family may be easily distinguished from those of Herodes’ family according to the type of clothing worn ...


A Sesquicentennial Exhibition Of Historic Garments And Textile Treasures, Sara B. Marcketti, Carmen N. Keist, Tekara Shay Stewart, Erica Michelle White Nov 2008

A Sesquicentennial Exhibition Of Historic Garments And Textile Treasures, Sara B. Marcketti, Carmen N. Keist, Tekara Shay Stewart, Erica Michelle White

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Conference Proceedings and Presentations

This presentation emphasizes the decisions regarding the selection of garments to best highlight the costume collection and gallery space and the ways in which the curators worked with the university community to promote the exhibition.


Artful Identifications: Crafting Survival In Japanese American Concentration Camps, Jane E. Dusselier Jan 2005

Artful Identifications: Crafting Survival In Japanese American Concentration Camps, Jane E. Dusselier

Jane E. Dusselier

"Artful Identifications" offers three meanings of internment art. First, internees remade locations of imprisonment into livable places of survival. Inside places were remade as internees responded to degraded living conditions by creating furniture with discarded apple crates, cardboard, tree branches and stumps, scrap pieces of wood left behind by government carpenters, and wood lifted from guarded lumber piles. Having addressed the material conditions of their living units, internees turned their attention to aesthetic matters by creating needle crafts, wood carvings, ikebana, paintings, shell art, and kobu. Dramatic changes to outside spaces of "assembly centers" and concentration camps were also critical ...


Design Piracy In The United States Women's Ready-To-Wear Apparel Industry: 1910-1941 , Sara Beth Marcketti Jan 2005

Design Piracy In The United States Women's Ready-To-Wear Apparel Industry: 1910-1941 , Sara Beth Marcketti

Retrospective Theses and Dissertations

This research investigates the economic conditions of the American apparel industry, as well as the complex interactions of apparel industry members, trade organizations, and the U.S. government to better understand the reasons cited for supporters of apparel style protection versus those who accepted design piracy. The purpose is to examine the concept of piracy within the historical context of the American ready-to-wear apparel industry. Through an analysis of journalistic coverage in trade and popular fashion periodicals, pertinent legal records, economic and census data, governmental hearings, archival sources, and the case study of the Fashion Originators Guild of America, this ...


"It Is A Profession That Is New, Unlimited And Rich!": The Promotion Of The American Fashion Designer In The 1930s , Sheryl Ann Farnan Jan 2005

"It Is A Profession That Is New, Unlimited And Rich!": The Promotion Of The American Fashion Designer In The 1930s , Sheryl Ann Farnan

Retrospective Theses and Dissertations

This study examines the American fashion designer portrayed through diverse publicity generated in various popular culture formats during the Depression era, 1930--1940. Through career literature, fiction, feature film, and promotion in magazine articles, the American woman came to know the creators of her fashions. Themes of wholesale design, retail design, income and perquisites, education and training emerged. Other themes such as client relations, selling, work process, and attitudes toward the French mystique were also discussed. A picture developed of a profession with unlimited opportunity which allowed women to rise to executive leadership, utilize creativity and artistic talent, earn a lucrative ...


Correct Clothing For Historical Interpreters In Living History Museums, Laura Marie Poresky Jan 1997

Correct Clothing For Historical Interpreters In Living History Museums, Laura Marie Poresky

Retrospective Theses and Dissertations

No abstract provided.


Women's Functional Swimwear, 1860-1920 , Maxine James Johns Jan 1997

Women's Functional Swimwear, 1860-1920 , Maxine James Johns

Retrospective Theses and Dissertations

Using periodicals, catalogs, extant garments, postcards, patents, photographs, and newspapers, I traced the origin and development of women's functional swimwear from the bloomer costume of the 1850s to the "tank suit" of the 1920s. To gain insight into exogenous or external forces that may influence the fashion process, I considered urban lifestyle, education and status of women, leisure activities, swimming facilities, renowned swimmers, the Olympics, knit technology, water travel, drownings, life preservers, and public baths;Initial findings supported the thesis that women's bathing garments followed the dominant outerwear silhouette of the era. Visual data indicated women generally adopted ...


Selecting And Adapting Clothing For Pregnancy In The Nineteenth Century, Cassandra Curry Moon Jan 1995

Selecting And Adapting Clothing For Pregnancy In The Nineteenth Century, Cassandra Curry Moon

Retrospective Theses and Dissertations

No abstract provided.


The Development And Use Of Bib Overalls In The United States, 1856-1945 , Ann Revenaugh Hemken Jan 1993

The Development And Use Of Bib Overalls In The United States, 1856-1945 , Ann Revenaugh Hemken

Retrospective Theses and Dissertations

In the past, costume historians have expended much effort researching fashionable dress. Now scholars are gaining in awareness of the need to also study common, everyday dress. Much of the research done to date has focused on women's clothing, but that, too is changing, with the realization of the need to consider men's clothing. Not only are costume historians beginning to look at everyday clothing, but clothing manufacturers are also interested in learning about the history of their products, because this information can be applied to advertising campaigns and company promotional literature. Perhaps the findings will also shed ...


Fine Bird Books, Becky S. Jordan Jan 1992

Fine Bird Books, Becky S. Jordan

Special Collections Exhibit Catalogs

The Department of Special Collections is fortunate to have a number of 19th Century illustrated bird books. These books, filled with hand-colored plates, were produced at a time when there was tremendous interest in the descriptions of new species of birds. At the same time, a new printing technique, lithography, made illustration of new species a simpler process. This combination of art and science resulted in lovely volumes like those on display.


Home Weaving, Professional Weaving, And Textile Mills In Southeast Iowa, 1833-1870, Deloris H. Connolly Jan 1982

Home Weaving, Professional Weaving, And Textile Mills In Southeast Iowa, 1833-1870, Deloris H. Connolly

Retrospective Theses and Dissertations

No abstract provided.


Dress Of The Oregon Trail Emigrants: 1843 To 1855, Maria Barbara Mcmartin Jan 1977

Dress Of The Oregon Trail Emigrants: 1843 To 1855, Maria Barbara Mcmartin

Retrospective Theses and Dissertations

No abstract provided.


Illustrated Botanical Books, Fifteenth, Sixteenth, Seventeenth Centuries, Stanley Yates Jan 1974

Illustrated Botanical Books, Fifteenth, Sixteenth, Seventeenth Centuries, Stanley Yates

Special Collections Exhibit Catalogs

No attempt has been made for a comprehensive coverage of the many outstanding illustrated botanical books for this three hundred year period. Rather the aim has been for a combination of interesting illustrators and famous botanists. Like the exhibit on fine bird books, these books on display have been taken from the Rare Books division of Special Collections.