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Across The Sandhills, Randall Snyder

Randall Snyder Compositions

For Soprano and Piano

Poems: Roy Scheele.
Sandhill Cranes
August
Fishheads
A Bright Winter Morning
Seed Drop
The Gap In The Cedar

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:3 – November 1990

Textile Society of America Newsletters

From the President
Notices
Books
Classes, Conferences, Lectures, Symposia
Exhibitions
Pertinent Names and Addresses

Review Of Philippa Berry, Of Chastity And Power: Elizabethan Literature And The Unmarried Queen, Carole Levin

Department of History: Faculty Publications

Phillippa Berry has written a solidly researched and ambitious study of the impact of Elizabeth I and the cult of the Virgin Queen on Elizabethan literature. Berry's stated goal is to clarify contradictory relations of gender in the discourses of idealized love of Petrarchan love poetry and Neoplatonic philosophy, which so much influenced Renaissance literature. Berry wishes to explore the interrelationship between the love discourses and the cult of Elizabeth. As her title suggest, Berry is concerned to examine a number of literary texts that intertwine issues of sexual and political power. She argues that in sixteenth-century France as well …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:2 – June 1990

Textile Society of America Newsletters

From the President
Late News Flash
The Symposium: Textiles in Trade
Pertinent Names and Addresses
What’s New
Calls for Manuscripts and Papers
Fellowships
Employment Opportunities
Exhibitions
The Network: An International Directory of Textile Scholars

The All Souls Deuteronomy And The Decalogue, Sidnie White Crawford

Department of Classics and Religious Studies: Faculty Publications

4QDtn, the All Souls Deuteronomy, is the best-preserved of all the Deuteronomy manuscripts from Cave 4, Qumran. A photograph and partial translation of the manuscript were published by Frank Moore Cross in 1969 in the catalogue "Scrolls from the Wilderness of the Dead Sea." The manuscript consists of four complete columns and two partially damaged columns. Columns 2-6 are one continuous sheet of leather, with a sewn edge on col. 2. Column 1 has two sewn edges and was originally attached to the beginning of col. 2 (the columns were separated in the process of restoration). The manuscript was well …

Hermeneutica Gloriae Vs. Hermeneutica Crucis: Sebastian Franck And Martin Luther On The Clarity Of Scripture, Priscilla A. Hayden-Roy

German Language and Literature Papers

Martin Luther maintains throughout his work, and with special emphasis in On the Bondage of the Will, that Scripture is clear. Unlike Erasmus, who warns that we should avoid obscure parts of Scripture that, like the Cave of Corycos, would lure us too close to terrors beyond our comprehension, Luther argues that Scripture has been placed in the clearest light by the coming of Christ, in whom all of Scripture's mysteries have been revealed. If we were to look for a contemporary of Luther's to represent the opposite pole, the obscurity or ambiguity of Scripture, it would not be Erasmus …

Challenging Patterns, Rose Marie Tondl

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

In "Challenging Patterns" you can build on basic construction skills you learned in Sewing for Fun and Clothing Level 1 and Clothing Level 2. You will practice new skills by working with more detailed and intricate pattern designs. You will learn more about:
* Wardrobe building
* Selecting challenging patterns
* Coordinating pattern and fabric
* Design elements - line, color, texture
* Design principles - proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis and harmony
* Face shapes - hair styles, necklines and accessories
* Selecting accessories
* Serger sewing
* Western wear
* Careers in textiles and clothing

Review Of Susan Dwyer Amussen, An Ordered Society: Gender And Class In Early Modern England, Carole Levin

Department of History: Faculty Publications

Susan Dwyer Amussen has produced an extremely well-researched and gracefully written study on gender and class in early modern England. Amussen describes her work as in part a response to and continuation of the issues raised by the early classic study of Alice Clark, Working Life of Women in the Seventeenth Century. Amussen argues that "Clark's mistaken placement of the change from household to capitalist production in the seventeenth cen- tury - at least a century before it actually took place - makes it incumbent on students of early modern England to continue to study the family as the fundamental …

Evaluating Uv Absorbers , Patricia Cox Crews, David J. Clark

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

UV absorbers and antioxidants topically applied to upholstery fabrics to reduce fading, separately and in conjunction with soil repellent finish formulations containing UV absorbers, were evaluated in this study. Over fifty upholstery fabrics were initially evaluated and fourteen were selected for further study. The fabrics were then topically treated with commercially available soil repellent finishes (a fluorocarbon and a silicone finish) containing UV absorbers or immersion-treated with one of thirteen UV absorbers or antioxidants. Following light exposure, color changes were evaluated visually and instrumentally. The results showed that neither the fluorocarbon nor silicone-based soil repellent finishes containing UV absorbers significantly …

The Place Of Archery In Greek Warfare, Thomas Nelson Winter

Department of Classics and Religious Studies: Faculty Publications

Despite the ancient Greek equivalent of an Agincourt, the Greek military mind firmly retained the heavy infantry, rather than the archers, as the main force. Recognized uses of the archer in Greek warfare were to fend off heights of city walls, to perform commando raids, and to provide covering fire for commando-style operations. This essay, written after a fresh reading of the principle Greek historians, puts together all passages where one can see the ancient Greek archer at work and in his military setting.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:3 – February 1990

Textile Society of America Newsletters

From the President
A Call for Papers
What’s New
Exhibition
Fellowships
Lectures, Symposia, Seminars, Workshops
Study Tours
The Network: An International Directory of Textile Scholars

Review Of Heidelberg Im Säkularen Umbruch. Traditionsbewußtsein Und Kulturpolitik Um 1800, Edited By Friedrich Strack, Priscilla A. Hayden-Roy

German Language and Literature Papers

This twelfth volume in the Deutscher Idealismus Philosophie und Wirkungsgeschichte in Quellen und Studien series on aspects of German Idealism maintains the high quality set by earlier volumes in this series. It consists of 23 articles that originally were presented at a colloquium held in Heidelberg in the fall of 1985 on the occasion of the 600th anniversary of Heidelberg University. The collection focuses on the period of transition at the University after 1803 when, in the wake of the Napoleonic Wars, the Palatinate was divided and Heidelberg was incorporated into Baden.

The Capitals And Capitols Of Nebraska, Frederick C. Luebke

Department of History: Faculty Publications

When Europeans visit the Great Plains region of the United States, they are impressed by the newness of the place. Coming from communities that often are filled with physical evidence of great age, they are reminded that here virtually none of the visible marks of Euroamerican culture are more than a mere century old. Before 1854, the year in which Nebraska was legislated into existence, permanent residence in this place was technically illegal. Except for the never-numerous Indians, a few fur trappers and traders, and some soldiers and their camp followers clustered around Fort Kearny, Nebraska had no population. It …

Germans In The New World: Essays In The History Of Immigration, Frederick C. Luebke

Department of History: Faculty Publications

In some respects the new immigration history contrasts strongly with the old. Whereas the traditional was assimilationist and stressed the cultural contributions of the newcomers, the new is more often pluralist and focuses on cultural conflict. The old tended to describe individual accomplishment and, drawing upon readily available sources such as letters, speeches, diaries, and other qualitative sources, was unintentionally elitist; the new analyzes the relationships of the ethnic group (i.e., the masses of ordinary people of limited skills in communication) with elements of the receiving society, including other ethnocultural collectivities. It uses quantitative sources, such as census manuscripts, tax …

The American Market For Indian Textiles, 1785-1820: In The Twilight Of Traditional Cloth Manufacture, Susan S. Bean

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A brisk trade in Indian cloth developed soon after the end of the American War of Independence in 1783 and continued to flourish until Congress enacted a prohibitive tariff in 1816 to protect the nascent U.S. textile manufacturing industry. For the period 1795-1805, U.S. trade with India well exceeded trade with all European nations combined for all commodities (Furber 1938:258). Cloth was the centerpiece of this trade: The piece goods imported in 1804-05, for instance, were about three times the value of all other goods from India, chiefly sugar, indigo, ginger, and a variety of spices and drugs (Bhagat 1970:42). …

Contents- Textiles In Trade- 1990

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

CONTENTS

Preface

A Brief History of the Textile Society of America. Milton Sonday

Speakers

Keynote Address: Silk in European and American Trade before 1783: A Commodity of Commerce or Frivolous Luxury? Natalie Rothstein

British Exports to the USA, 1776-1914: Organization and Strategy.

The British Linen Trade with the United States in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries. Negley Harte

Transatlantic Trade in Woollen Cloth 1850-1914: The Role of Shoddy. David T. Jenkins

Cottons and Printed Textiles. Stanley Chapman

The American Market for Indian Textiles, 1785-1820: In the Twilight of Traditional Cloth Manufacture. Susan S. Bean

The Manufacture and Trade of Luxury …

Preface- 1990, Mattiebelle Gittinger, Rita J. Adrosko

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

"The Textile Society of America provides a forum for the exchange and dissemination of information about the historic, cultural, socio-economic, artistic, and technical aspects of textiles." One of the ways the society addresses this mission is in its biennial symposium and the promise of quick publication of the papers presented

Although the name of the organization may suggest a Western Hemisphere orientation its membership is international and the topics for presentation global in their selection.

The themes selected for the biennial symposium are weighed with a keen eye on their ability to provide a matrix for many disciplines-those of the …

Indian Textiles For The Thai Market: A Royal Prerogative?, John Guy

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The historical trade in Indian textiles to Thailand can be well documented from the beginning of the seventeenth century. Archaeological as well as textual sources allow our understanding of this trade to the region to be pushed back to the late thirteenth century, when Indian textiles had already assumed a high status at the court of Angkor.

In the course of the Ayudhyan period the control of this trade appears to have been secured by the Thai king and nobility. The earliest European accounts of trade with Thailand refer to the central role the king assumed, as both the dispenser …

Trade And The Post War Textile Industry In The United States, Lynn Felsher

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A large portion of textiles designed for the United States are no longer being made in this country. Instead they are manufactured in Europe, the Pacific Rim, including Japan, China, Hong Kong, South Korea, the Philippines, Southeast Asia and the Caribbean.

The initial design source of these textiles may still be the United States, but even this in light of my current research is ambiguous. I intend to show several textiles which though made for the U.S. market were not manufactured in this country. Their provenance is based upon interviews conducted with the textiles' designers, the country of origin labels …

Textiles In The Tourist Trade: Woollen Textile Production In Momostenango, Guatemala, Anne M. Lambert

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

Textile production in Guatemala has been the focus of a considerable amount of twentieth century literature in the English language. Guatemalan textiles have been avidly collected by museums, universities and private collectors in North America and Europe. Our belief as researchers and collectors is that we are recording and preserving the valuable textile traditions of the indigenous people of Guatemala.

What we often don't realize is that collectively, over time, we are saying as much about our own perspective as outsiders as we are about the Guatemalan people and their textiles. Our choices of what to document and what …

Allegories Unveiled: European Sources For A Safavid Velvet, Mary Anderson Mcwilliams

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Woven in Iran during the seventeenth century, the magnificent velvet that is the subject of this paper (figure 1) testifies to the splendor of the reign of the Safavid Shahs (1501-1722). A curious blending of Persian and European elements, it features four women holding various objects against the backdrop of a flowering landscape.

The figures stand along the weft axis. The fragment in figure 1, from the collection of the Cooper-Hewitt Museum in New York, features a full technical repeat unit, measuring over seven feet in warp direction, and 28 inches, or the full loom width, in weft direction. For …

The Impact Of The Mediterranean Silk Trade On Western Europe Before 1200 A.D., Anna Maria Muthesius

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Silk, trade and politics were common spokes in an intricate wheel, propelling Mediterranean influence towards the West. At a time when Western Europe lacked the ability to manufacture silk cloth, Eastern silken stuffs were eagerly sought for secular and ecclesiastical purposes. Byzantium in particular, in return for silks, demanded Western military and naval aid, and her silk trade concessions bore the hallmark of powerful political bargaining counters. The survival of more than one thousand silks in church treasuries of Western Europe, provides unspoken insights into the complex impact of Mediterranean silk trade on the West before 1200 A.D. The …

Moccasins Into Slippers: Traditions And Transformations In Nineteenth-Century Woodlands Indian Textiles, Ruth B. Phillips

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Towards the middle of the nineteenth-century a swift and dramatic transformation occurred in textiles and other kinds of art made by Woodlands Indians in northeastern North America, This transformation was accomplished in part by a wholesale replacement of indigenous materials with Euro-American manufactures— cloth for hide, glass beads for porcupine quills and silk ribbon for paint. It also encompassed the introduction of entirely new object types and the substitution of a new vocabulary of floral imagery for older iconographic traditions.

It is not, of course, coincidental that this change in iconography and materials occurred simultaneously with the rapid growth of …

Of Cabbages And Kings, Ellen S. Smart

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper attempts to relate a small number of Mughal furnishing fabrics to their 17th C prices and to the purchasing power of Mughal money. There is no intent to give a comprehensive overview, but rather to see a few 17th C textiles, which today are rare and fabulously expensive, in terms of their original comparative cost. Information about the fabrics comes from the goods themselves and from contemporary Mughal paintings. Although inscriptions on the textiles contain some information about prices, several tables of textiles and prices are found in the Ain-i Akbari, a compendium on the mode of …

A Brief History Of The Textile Society Of America Summary Report By The President, Milton Sonday

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

After The Textile Museum decided to discontinue its Irene Emery Roundtables and die Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Anciens finally admitted it was not interested in an American branch, it became clear that an independent American group of textile enthusiasts should be formed to satisfy the many requests for such an organization. There had been an attempt to form a group which was called WHATS, but it never got off the ground. Peggy Gilfoy at the Indianapolis Museum of Art, one of the original organizers, was left guarding its small fund when it folded.

On April 3, 1987 a small …

Studio And Soiree: The Use And Misuse Of Chinese Textiles In A European Setting, Verity Wilson

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

George Smith's painting, ‘The Rightful Heir’, exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1874, serves as a melodramatic introduction to this paper. Sombre-suited gentlemen are depicted sitting around a table studying the disputed will. Two frightened ladies in crinolines and a small boy in a velvet suit confront the wicked usurper who is wearing a Chinese dragon robe. This angry Victorian was not unique in his choice of dressing gown.

The dragon robe, familiar from museum collections all over Europe and North America, was used in China in the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as an hierarchical garment. It was worn …

Modern Traditions: The Impact Of The Trade In Traditional Textiles On The Sakaka Of Northern Potosi, Bolivia, Elayne L. Zorn

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

An elegantly dressed woman, wearing the handwoven clothing characteristic of her ethnic group, stands in front of a vendor displaying the latest machine-woven shawls from Bolivia's capital city, La Paz. The women, her daughter, and friends have just walked five hours from their rural home to attend an annual festival in the region's only town. The merchant, a young man of indigenous origin, wearing jeans, a jacket, sneakers, and a baseball cap, urges her to try on his merchandise. Glancing at her women friends for support, she opens the large safety pin holding closed her handwoven shawl and deftly slips …

Rev. Of "Mccarthy," Play By Jeff Goldsmith With James Pickering As Sen. Joseph Mccarthy, William Grange

Johnny Carson School of Theatre and Film: Faculty Publications and Creative Activity

Review of McCarthy by Jeff Goldsmith, directed by Frank Condon, with James Pickering as Sen. Joseph McCarthy.

Shalimar, Randall Snyder

Randall Snyder Compositions

For Flute, Viola, Cello, and Piano.

74 pages

Two Spender Songs, Randall Snyder

Randall Snyder Compositions

For Baritone and Piano.

Two Armies
Polar Exploration

poems: Stephen Spender

21 pages