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X-Ray Rock Art Of Australia And Southeast Asia, Paul Faulstich Nov 1990

X-Ray Rock Art Of Australia And Southeast Asia, Paul Faulstich

Pitzer Faculty Publications and Research

Throughout the world, cultures have expressed social, economic, and religious concerns through art. As the oldest surviving artistic form, rock art illustrates mankind's continuing effort to understand his place in the material and immaterial worlds. The study of rock art can lend an important insight into prehistory, as it provides the earliest illustration of beliefs, technologies, and activities.


Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:3 – November 1990 Nov 1990

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:3 – November 1990

Textile Society of America Newsletters

From the President
Notices
Books
Classes, Conferences, Lectures, Symposia
Exhibitions
Pertinent Names and Addresses


Beyond Memos: A Journal Of The Umf Faculty, Volume 3, Issue 1, Fall 1990, University Of Maine At Farmington Oct 1990

Beyond Memos: A Journal Of The Umf Faculty, Volume 3, Issue 1, Fall 1990, University Of Maine At Farmington

Beyond Memos: A Journal of the UMF Faculty

Beyond Memos is meant to be just that -- a forum where UMF faculty can share ideas and creative work that go beyond the day-to-day campus routine of teaching, advising, committees, and memos. We welcome submission of anything of general interest: poems, stories, essays, drawings, photographs, interviews, humorous pieces, etc.


Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:2 – June 1990 Jun 1990

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:2 – June 1990

Textile Society of America Newsletters

From the President
Late News Flash
The Symposium: Textiles in Trade
Pertinent Names and Addresses
What’s New
Calls for Manuscripts and Papers
Fellowships
Employment Opportunities
Exhibitions
The Network: An International Directory of Textile Scholars


Ua51/3/4 Piece By Piece: A Sampling Of Logan County Quilts, Wku Kentucky Museum Apr 1990

Ua51/3/4 Piece By Piece: A Sampling Of Logan County Quilts, Wku Kentucky Museum

WKU Archives Records

Exhibition catalog from the Piece by Piece: A Sampling of Logan County Quilt exhibit.


Challenging Patterns, Rose Marie Tondl Apr 1990

Challenging Patterns, Rose Marie Tondl

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

In "Challenging Patterns" you can build on basic construction skills you learned in Sewing for Fun and Clothing Level 1 and Clothing Level 2. You will practice new skills by working with more detailed and intricate pattern designs. You will learn more about:
* Wardrobe building
* Selecting challenging patterns
* Coordinating pattern and fabric
* Design elements - line, color, texture
* Design principles - proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis and harmony
* Face shapes - hair styles, necklines and accessories
* Selecting accessories
* Serger sewing
* Western wear
* Careers in textiles and clothing


Beyond Memos: A Journal Of The Umf Faculty Volume 2, Number 2, Spring 1990, University Of Maine At Farmington Apr 1990

Beyond Memos: A Journal Of The Umf Faculty Volume 2, Number 2, Spring 1990, University Of Maine At Farmington

Beyond Memos: A Journal of the UMF Faculty

Beyond Memos is meant to be just that -- a forum where UMF faculty can share ideas and creative work that go beyond the day-to-day campus routine of teaching, advising, committees, and memos. We welcome submission of anything of general interest: poems, stories, essays, drawings, photographs, interviews, humorous pieces, etc.


The New School Of Wood Engraving, Edward A. Gokey Apr 1990

The New School Of Wood Engraving, Edward A. Gokey

The Courier

This article traces the history of modern wood engraving, including the argument in the art world that took place regarding whether wood engraving could be considered "art" in the first place. As the art form gained popularity with print publishers due to its convenience and beauty, internal debates took place about which direction the art form should take, especially within the "New School" of wood engraving that had emerged. Research for the article was aided by Syracuse University's Special Collections.


Evaluating Uv Absorbers , Patricia Cox Crews, David J. Clark Mar 1990

Evaluating Uv Absorbers , Patricia Cox Crews, David J. Clark

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

UV absorbers and antioxidants topically applied to upholstery fabrics to reduce fading, separately and in conjunction with soil repellent finish formulations containing UV absorbers, were evaluated in this study. Over fifty upholstery fabrics were initially evaluated and fourteen were selected for further study. The fabrics were then topically treated with commercially available soil repellent finishes (a fluorocarbon and a silicone finish) containing UV absorbers or immersion-treated with one of thirteen UV absorbers or antioxidants. Following light exposure, color changes were evaluated visually and instrumentally. The results showed that neither the fluorocarbon nor silicone-based soil repellent finishes containing UV absorbers significantly …


Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:3 – February 1990 Feb 1990

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:3 – February 1990

Textile Society of America Newsletters

From the President
A Call for Papers
What’s New
Exhibition
Fellowships
Lectures, Symposia, Seminars, Workshops
Study Tours
The Network: An International Directory of Textile Scholars


The American Market For Indian Textiles, 1785-1820: In The Twilight Of Traditional Cloth Manufacture, Susan S. Bean Jan 1990

The American Market For Indian Textiles, 1785-1820: In The Twilight Of Traditional Cloth Manufacture, Susan S. Bean

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A brisk trade in Indian cloth developed soon after the end of the American War of Independence in 1783 and continued to flourish until Congress enacted a prohibitive tariff in 1816 to protect the nascent U.S. textile manufacturing industry. For the period 1795-1805, U.S. trade with India well exceeded trade with all European nations combined for all commodities (Furber 1938:258). Cloth was the centerpiece of this trade: The piece goods imported in 1804-05, for instance, were about three times the value of all other goods from India, chiefly sugar, indigo, ginger, and a variety of spices and drugs (Bhagat 1970:42). …


Contents- Textiles In Trade- 1990 Jan 1990

Contents- Textiles In Trade- 1990

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

CONTENTS

Preface

A Brief History of the Textile Society of America. Milton Sonday

Speakers

Keynote Address: Silk in European and American Trade before 1783: A Commodity of Commerce or Frivolous Luxury? Natalie Rothstein

British Exports to the USA, 1776-1914: Organization and Strategy.

The British Linen Trade with the United States in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries. Negley Harte

Transatlantic Trade in Woollen Cloth 1850-1914: The Role of Shoddy. David T. Jenkins

Cottons and Printed Textiles. Stanley Chapman

The American Market for Indian Textiles, 1785-1820: In the Twilight of Traditional Cloth Manufacture. Susan S. Bean

The Manufacture and Trade of Luxury …


Preface- 1990, Mattiebelle Gittinger, Rita J. Adrosko Jan 1990

Preface- 1990, Mattiebelle Gittinger, Rita J. Adrosko

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

"The Textile Society of America provides a forum for the exchange and dissemination of information about the historic, cultural, socio-economic, artistic, and technical aspects of textiles." One of the ways the society addresses this mission is in its biennial symposium and the promise of quick publication of the papers presented

Although the name of the organization may suggest a Western Hemisphere orientation its membership is international and the topics for presentation global in their selection.

The themes selected for the biennial symposium are weighed with a keen eye on their ability to provide a matrix for many disciplines-those of the …


Indian Textiles For The Thai Market: A Royal Prerogative?, John Guy Jan 1990

Indian Textiles For The Thai Market: A Royal Prerogative?, John Guy

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The historical trade in Indian textiles to Thailand can be well documented from the beginning of the seventeenth century. Archaeological as well as textual sources allow our understanding of this trade to the region to be pushed back to the late thirteenth century, when Indian textiles had already assumed a high status at the court of Angkor.

In the course of the Ayudhyan period the control of this trade appears to have been secured by the Thai king and nobility. The earliest European accounts of trade with Thailand refer to the central role the king assumed, as both the dispenser …


Trade And The Post War Textile Industry In The United States, Lynn Felsher Jan 1990

Trade And The Post War Textile Industry In The United States, Lynn Felsher

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A large portion of textiles designed for the United States are no longer being made in this country. Instead they are manufactured in Europe, the Pacific Rim, including Japan, China, Hong Kong, South Korea, the Philippines, Southeast Asia and the Caribbean.

The initial design source of these textiles may still be the United States, but even this in light of my current research is ambiguous. I intend to show several textiles which though made for the U.S. market were not manufactured in this country. Their provenance is based upon interviews conducted with the textiles' designers, the country of origin labels …


Textiles In The Tourist Trade: Woollen Textile Production In Momostenango, Guatemala, Anne M. Lambert Jan 1990

Textiles In The Tourist Trade: Woollen Textile Production In Momostenango, Guatemala, Anne M. Lambert

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

Textile production in Guatemala has been the focus of a considerable amount of twentieth century literature in the English language. Guatemalan textiles have been avidly collected by museums, universities and private collectors in North America and Europe. Our belief as researchers and collectors is that we are recording and preserving the valuable textile traditions of the indigenous people of Guatemala.

What we often don't realize is that collectively, over time, we are saying as much about our own perspective as outsiders as we are about the Guatemalan people and their textiles. Our choices of what to document and what …


Allegories Unveiled: European Sources For A Safavid Velvet, Mary Anderson Mcwilliams Jan 1990

Allegories Unveiled: European Sources For A Safavid Velvet, Mary Anderson Mcwilliams

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Woven in Iran during the seventeenth century, the magnificent velvet that is the subject of this paper (figure 1) testifies to the splendor of the reign of the Safavid Shahs (1501-1722). A curious blending of Persian and European elements, it features four women holding various objects against the backdrop of a flowering landscape.

The figures stand along the weft axis. The fragment in figure 1, from the collection of the Cooper-Hewitt Museum in New York, features a full technical repeat unit, measuring over seven feet in warp direction, and 28 inches, or the full loom width, in weft direction. For …


The Impact Of The Mediterranean Silk Trade On Western Europe Before 1200 A.D., Anna Maria Muthesius Jan 1990

The Impact Of The Mediterranean Silk Trade On Western Europe Before 1200 A.D., Anna Maria Muthesius

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Silk, trade and politics were common spokes in an intricate wheel, propelling Mediterranean influence towards the West. At a time when Western Europe lacked the ability to manufacture silk cloth, Eastern silken stuffs were eagerly sought for secular and ecclesiastical purposes. Byzantium in particular, in return for silks, demanded Western military and naval aid, and her silk trade concessions bore the hallmark of powerful political bargaining counters. The survival of more than one thousand silks in church treasuries of Western Europe, provides unspoken insights into the complex impact of Mediterranean silk trade on the West before 1200 A.D. The …


Moccasins Into Slippers: Traditions And Transformations In Nineteenth-Century Woodlands Indian Textiles, Ruth B. Phillips Jan 1990

Moccasins Into Slippers: Traditions And Transformations In Nineteenth-Century Woodlands Indian Textiles, Ruth B. Phillips

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Towards the middle of the nineteenth-century a swift and dramatic transformation occurred in textiles and other kinds of art made by Woodlands Indians in northeastern North America, This transformation was accomplished in part by a wholesale replacement of indigenous materials with Euro-American manufactures— cloth for hide, glass beads for porcupine quills and silk ribbon for paint. It also encompassed the introduction of entirely new object types and the substitution of a new vocabulary of floral imagery for older iconographic traditions.

It is not, of course, coincidental that this change in iconography and materials occurred simultaneously with the rapid growth of …


Of Cabbages And Kings, Ellen S. Smart Jan 1990

Of Cabbages And Kings, Ellen S. Smart

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper attempts to relate a small number of Mughal furnishing fabrics to their 17th C prices and to the purchasing power of Mughal money. There is no intent to give a comprehensive overview, but rather to see a few 17th C textiles, which today are rare and fabulously expensive, in terms of their original comparative cost. Information about the fabrics comes from the goods themselves and from contemporary Mughal paintings. Although inscriptions on the textiles contain some information about prices, several tables of textiles and prices are found in the Ain-i Akbari, a compendium on the mode of …


A Brief History Of The Textile Society Of America Summary Report By The President, Milton Sonday Jan 1990

A Brief History Of The Textile Society Of America Summary Report By The President, Milton Sonday

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

After The Textile Museum decided to discontinue its Irene Emery Roundtables and die Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Anciens finally admitted it was not interested in an American branch, it became clear that an independent American group of textile enthusiasts should be formed to satisfy the many requests for such an organization. There had been an attempt to form a group which was called WHATS, but it never got off the ground. Peggy Gilfoy at the Indianapolis Museum of Art, one of the original organizers, was left guarding its small fund when it folded.

On April 3, 1987 a small …


Studio And Soiree: The Use And Misuse Of Chinese Textiles In A European Setting, Verity Wilson Jan 1990

Studio And Soiree: The Use And Misuse Of Chinese Textiles In A European Setting, Verity Wilson

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

George Smith's painting, ‘The Rightful Heir’, exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1874, serves as a melodramatic introduction to this paper. Sombre-suited gentlemen are depicted sitting around a table studying the disputed will. Two frightened ladies in crinolines and a small boy in a velvet suit confront the wicked usurper who is wearing a Chinese dragon robe. This angry Victorian was not unique in his choice of dressing gown.

The dragon robe, familiar from museum collections all over Europe and North America, was used in China in the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as an hierarchical garment. It was worn …


Modern Traditions: The Impact Of The Trade In Traditional Textiles On The Sakaka Of Northern Potosi, Bolivia, Elayne L. Zorn Jan 1990

Modern Traditions: The Impact Of The Trade In Traditional Textiles On The Sakaka Of Northern Potosi, Bolivia, Elayne L. Zorn

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

An elegantly dressed woman, wearing the handwoven clothing characteristic of her ethnic group, stands in front of a vendor displaying the latest machine-woven shawls from Bolivia's capital city, La Paz. The women, her daughter, and friends have just walked five hours from their rural home to attend an annual festival in the region's only town. The merchant, a young man of indigenous origin, wearing jeans, a jacket, sneakers, and a baseball cap, urges her to try on his merchandise. Glancing at her women friends for support, she opens the large safety pin holding closed her handwoven shawl and deftly slips …


Portfolio, Donald Kurka Jan 1990

Portfolio, Donald Kurka

Historical Material

The Fall 1990 newsletter for the Ut Department of Art covers the establishment of student-run Gallery 1010, the grand opening of The Knoxville Museum of Art, the dedication of the Sculpture Tour permanent collection to Chancellor Jack Reese, a Ewing Gallery exhibition by Mary Beth Edelson, and the retirement of painting professor Richard Clarke.


Sculpture Tour 89 90 (Exhibition Catalogue), John Quinn, Dennis Peacock, Leeann Mitchell Jan 1990

Sculpture Tour 89 90 (Exhibition Catalogue), John Quinn, Dennis Peacock, Leeann Mitchell

Sculpture Tour

Curated by UT Department of Art sculpture professor, Dennis Peacock, and LeeAnn Mitchell, the 89/90 Sculpture Tour features twenty-five works by twenty-four artists from fourteen different states.

Participating artists were: Norman Keller, Christopher J. Saucedo, Stephen Montague, MIchael Aurbach, Thomas F. Shepherd, Alvin Frega, Mary Brownstein, Florence Neal, Jack Gron, Dan MIllspaugh, Robert Michael Smith, Virginia Van Horn, Greg Edmondson, Marcia Kaplan, Nick Taylor, Thomas Koole, John Payne, Mary Scrupe, Tom Gibbs, William Harrington, Robert Craig, John Mishler, Dirck Cruser, and Bill Barrett.


Habits Of Industry: White Culture And The Transformation Of The Carolina Piedmont (Book Review), Edward L. Ayers Jan 1990

Habits Of Industry: White Culture And The Transformation Of The Carolina Piedmont (Book Review), Edward L. Ayers

History Faculty Publications

Review of the book, Habits of Industry: White Culture and the Transformation of the Carolina Piedmont by Allen Tullos. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1989.


Fantastic Figures Of Ocumicho, Joe Molinaro Jan 1990

Fantastic Figures Of Ocumicho, Joe Molinaro

Art and Design Faculty and Staff Scholarship

No abstract provided.


A Moment's Notice, Daphne Anderson Deeds Jan 1990

A Moment's Notice, Daphne Anderson Deeds

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

A Moment's Notice: Still Lifes From the Sheldon Memorial Art Gallery was selected and organized by Daphne Anderson Deeds, Curator/ Assistant Director of the Sheldon Gallery. Ms. Deeds was assisted by fellow staff members, Karen Janovy, Education Coordinator; Janice Roberts, Community Programs Coordinator; Kay Williams, Secretary to the Curator/Assistant Director; and Gregg Lanik, Assistant Preparator for the Statewide Traveling Exhibitions Program. Student intern Susan Robinson provided additional valuable assistance.

A Moment's Notice is the Sheldon Gallery's third annual statewide traveling exhibition. The 1989-90 statewide traveling exhibition program has been sponsored by the Statewide Council of the Nebraska Art Association. Additional …


Barns And Farms, Christin J. Mamiya Jan 1990

Barns And Farms, Christin J. Mamiya

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

The art of Ed Ruscha has been a consistent and important presence on the art scene since 1960. Yet his works have not received the high visibility media coverage that the work of many of his peers, such as Jasper Johns and Andy Warhol, have garnered. This situation can, in part, be attributed to the fact that contemporary art criticism has tended to center around clearly defined movements, and Ruscha's work has resisted easy categorization. In addition, interpretations of his work have shifted over the past few decades--his work has been cited in discussions of Pop art, Conceptual art and, …


Native Visions: Art By Folks, Karen O. Janovy Jan 1990

Native Visions: Art By Folks, Karen O. Janovy

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

Among the prestigious holdings of 20thcentury American art at the Sheldon Memorial Art Gallery, University of Nebraska-Lincoln, are outstanding examples of folk art that visitors frequently refer to as their favorites. Native Visions: Art by Folks includes Sheldon's sensitively rendered 19th-century shop sign Horse, the 18th-century limner portrait Girl with Rose and Book, and the 19thcentury watercolors Ship and Whale, both of the latter undated, by unknown artists, and found in whaling log books. In addition to these familiar pieces, the exhibition features 18th-, 19th- and 20th-century folk art objects selected primarily from private collections throughout Nebraska. Works …