Arts and Humanities Commons^™

Decency And Responsibility: Preserving Egyptian Tally Cloth Cultural Heritage And Protecting The Intellectual Property Of Egyptian Artisans., Noha Fawzy Ph.D, Marwa Zein Ph.D, Ahmed Elseragy Ph.D, Catherine Harper Ph.D

Arts and Design

Tally is an exquisite Egyptian netting fabric, cotton or linen with nickel silver, copper or brass strip embroidery, a powerful symbol of Egypt's opulent textile and artisanal culture. Traditionally handmade, it originated in Upper Egypt’s Asyut region where ancient Egyptian makers pioneered embellishment of translucent cloth with metallic threads. Its iconography - geometric flora, fauna, humans and camels – in black, white or ecru. With beautiful drape and fluidity, it is a highly valued part of Egypt’s rich cultural heritage.

Preserving Tally and protecting the intellectual property rights of its artisans is urgent to ensure sustainable livelihoods, safeguard this unique …

Transatlantic Connections: Reconsidering The Outcomes Of The Arts And Crafts Movement Through The Women's Experience, Britain And The United States, 1860-1920, Tiffany B. Beasley

<strong> Theses and Dissertations </strong>

The British Arts and Crafts movement (1860-1914) was a call for the return to artisan craftsmanship as a response to mass-production driven by the Industrial Revolution (1760-1830). Historically, the movement has been viewed as a socialist concept developed by men. However, in 1979, a feminist intervention in women's history challenged this masculinist perspective. As the movement spread to the United States (1870-1920), first to New England and then to the South in New Orleans, it also expanded into concepts that moved beyond craftsmanship and into women's issues, such as education, suffrage, and professional work opportunities. It is now evident that …

Crafting 21st-Century Trend-Compliant Fashion Collections For Muslim Women: Ghana In Perspective, Rashida Abdulai, Ninette Afi Appiah, Isaac Abraham

Journal of Art, Design and Music

Purpose: The study examined the integration of global fashion trends with Islamic modesty principles in clothing design for Ghanaian Muslim women. It explored the blending of contemporary styles with the requirements of Islamic dress codes, considering the increasing diversity and modernization of Muslim women’s fashion preferences.

Method: The study utilized art-based studio research and the double Helix Praxis-Exegesis Model, which involves customer profiling, concept creation using mood boards, and design techniques. Ten respondents were purposively selected and interviewed. Feedback from interviews ensured the designs resonated with the target audience.

Findings and Conclusion: The study discovered that contemporary Islamic fashion combines …

Naming And Interpretative Meanings Of Selected African Prints And Ankara Fabric Designs, Adeola Abiodun Adeoti

Journal of Art, Design and Music

Ankara fabric has colourful designs, but both the colours and the designs on the fabric have hidden meanings with proverbs and events attached to them. As much as the fact that the paper is art historical, the naming system of Ankara fabric is yet to attract scholarly interest. Therefore, the ephemerality of the fabric and the changing nature of fashion call for immediate and chronological record of the histories of the designs before it fades out of memory. The study adopts qualitative approach of analyzing data with the use of both primary and secondary sources of data collection which were …

Urban Looms, Recoloring City, Ella Son

Masters Theses

The metropolis has been a dominant and defining aspect of my life. Acutely aware of visual illusions created by the choreographed and unchoreographed movements of people in the streets and the distortions of light and shadow on the glass facades of skyscrapers, I reinterpret the patterns and colors that are in constant interplay into a collection of architectural textiles.

With an emphasis on optical layering, these immersive installations recreate the quality of being spellbound in the city. Scaled to emphasize verticality and activated through transparent overlays and dense color interplay, a rich visual field is activated. In their application, the …

Wild Joy: An Exploration In Queer Spatial Dynamics, Kipper Thomas Reinsmith

Masters Theses

What does it mean to feel represented in a space?

What does a trans space look like?

How can we queer our interior spaces?

Our world is crafted by the many designers that have come before us. These systems, products, and spaces are built upon assumptions of the bodies that will use and occupy them—namely cisgender, able-bodied, straight folks.

Designing and creating objects as a trans person is an act of radical nature. To take up space, to design for trans luxury, for the sake of beauty, for joy itself, feels counterintuitive to the narratives we’ve been served: that of …

Costumed Culture: Influences And Preservation On Broadway, Amanda L. Padilla

Publications and Research

This research talks about into the preservation and evolution of costuming in Broadway productions, and exploring how historical and contemporary designs intersect in certain productions. Through articles and an interview with an IATSE worker, it examines the socio-cultural influences shaping costume choices and the technical advancements driving innovation. By tracing the trajectory of Broadway costuming, from its roots to modern adaptations, this study talks about theatrical storytelling and its broader impact on fashion and cultural trends. It shows the significance of costuming as an art form reflective of constantly changing societal norms and artistic expressions on the Broadway stage.

The J In Danger, Zachary Delamater

Theses and Dissertations

“The J in Danger” merges autobiographic and formal concerns in sculpture and installation to describe the existential hazards contemporary life poses to Queer and Disabled individuals. The paper utilizes silent letters as thematic device to connect notions of precarity to a broader sense of contemporary “doomerism.”

The Catholic Runway: Examining The Representation Of The Chasuble In Modern Couture, Brendan Baehr

Honors Thesis

In Catholic tradition, the chasuble is a central garment worn by clergy members originating as far back as the 6^th century, albeit under a different name. The chasuble is the outermost form of vestment for members of the clergy and takes the general shape of a cone, leaving room for the head to be placed in a circular opening. The changes in form of the chasuble will be something I exam within this paper, as although often relatively minor, still reflect changing attitudes towards fashion sensibilities within the Catholic church over time. I will be primarily examining these changes …

Development Of Woven Blouses For Women Living Flat, Ailish Leahy

Apparel Merchandising and Product Development Undergraduate Honors Theses

Breast cancer is one of the most common cancers in women, with millions of survivors in the United States today. A mastectomy surgery is the most recommended treatment for breast cancer. A mastectomy removes the entire infected breast area, and it can be necessary for women to receive a double mastectomy to have both breasts removed. After receiving a mastectomy, women are faced with a decision: to receive breast reconstruction or to opt out of it.

Recently there has been an increase in the number of women who are opting out of breast reconstruction, also known as choosing to ‘live …

The Phygital Design Process: Using Emerging Technologies To Create A Phygital Fashion Brand Rooted In Nostalgia, Madeline M. Mcdaniel

Creativity and Change Leadership Graduate Student Master's Projects

This Master's Project is a comprehensive exploration of the intersection of digital fashion design, nostalgia, and sustainable practices. Its primary objective is to create 'project CYBERBAE,' a phygital fashion collection that draws inspiration from early 2000s video game characters, trends, and aesthetics. The project utilizes advanced digital tools like Clo3D to demonstrate a comprehensive digital fashion design process that emphasizes inclusivity and sustainability. It also pioneers the development of a 3D virtual world, providing users with an immersive environment to interact with and experience digital fashion. This virtual space serves as a platform for a community of fashion, technology, and …

Clothing, From Textiles To Pixels: Exploring The Possibilities Of Design With Clo3d Software, Tina Shetabi

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

This project explores the application of Clo3d software as a transformative educational tool in couture fashion design instruction. Despite couture's rich tradition of meticulous craftsmanship and personalized design, its teaching methodologies have yet to fully leverage digital advancements. This project examines the integration of Clo3d into the apparel design program curriculum, specifically focusing on the undergraduate course Digital Apparel Design at the University of Nebraska Lincoln. Through a combination of theoretical knowledge and practical application, this project aims to determine how digital tools like Clo3d can enhance the learning outcomes of fashion design students by providing a more interactive and …

From Field To Fashion: A Journey In Sustainable Design And Regional Understanding, Lily Turner

Individually Designed Interdepartmental Major Honors Project

As the fashion industry became globalized over the past century, it has become a major environment polluter and exposed laborers to hazardous conditions. This honors project considers sustainability in the textile industry at large and at the regional scale of the Upper Midwest. Its scholarly component offers an overview of the current textile production, details how the industry may become sustainable, and suggests practices of environmentally-conscious and ethical design. The creative component is a soil-to-soil seasonless capsule collection titled From Field View that incorporates biomimicry and interrogates the concept of place by referencing the Midwest’s flora, wool, and linen fibers.

Uprising, Issue 17 [Spring 2024], University Of Northern Iowa. Northern Iowa Student Government.

Uprising

Contents:

The 60s
Beyond the Apron --- 8
Art of the 60s --- 9
The Sea Itself --- 10
Menaces --- 13
It Girl --- 14
Behind the Blonde --- 16
Dandelion Child --- 19
The 70s
Glam Rock --- 21
Art of the 70s --- 22
Glitter, Guitar Riffs, and Glam Rock, Oh My! --- 24
Menaces --- 26
Peace: Echoes of Change --- 27
The Smell of Lavender in the Morning --- 28
What if UNI had a Dress Code Today --- 31
Metamorphasis --- 32
The 80s
Delinquent Love --- 34
Menaces --- 36
Art of the …

“An American Versailles:” Cold War Diplomacy And The Branding Of The American National Image Through The Fashion Of First Lady Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, Holly Carew

History & Classics Undergraduate Theses

HIS 490 History Honors Thesis

Japanese Fashion Legacies, Emily C. Guerry, Patricia B. Metcalf

Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

Exploration of Japan's contributions to fashion is highlighted in our research presentation. Silhouettes, textiles, and accessories that originated in ancient Japanese culture are analyzed throughout their evolution. From these findings, a 10-piece capsule collection was made to bring these ideas further into the modern day. We displayed them from traditional to modern to highlight this evolution through the culture. Popular garments such as the Kimono were used as inspiration for details such as thick belts, ties, and wrap-style shirts. Additionally, the textile stitching technique, Sashiko, is a main source of inspiration in the collection. Sashiko started as a mending technique …

Long Story Short, Hannah M. Varghese

Graphic Communication

Long Story Short and is a vintage up-cycling art brand. Our mission is to breathe new life into vintage pieces, crafting them into modern wearable art. As the name suggests, each creation tells a story while being revitalized for today’s fashion forward community.

Fast fashion and trend cycling has been a growing problem in today’s society. Things are going ‘in’ and ‘out’ quicker than they ever have. Trend cycling usually operates on a 20-year timeline. But, today’s sped up cycle encourages people to constantly over-consume in chase of the next cool thing. It’s unsustainable and an impossible chase. With a …

Fashion, Freedom, And Feminism: The Transcendent Work Of Rosa Genoni And Her "Tanagra Dress" Reimagined, Christina Trupiano

Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects

The fashion industry itself is broad in scope and dependent upon numerous sub-industries to produce its garments. It is heavily dependent upon machinery of all kinds, yet unlike many industries today, it is still also largely reliant on manual labor, specifically minority women labor. This dependance upon manual labor correlates with its long history of worker exploitation and sweated labor. The concentration of exploitative labor practices in the fashion industry have made it a focal point in the ongoing struggle between workers and the downward pressure capitalism and industrialization placed on worker compensation, quality of life and job security.

This …

Digital Transformation In Swimwear Pattern-Making: A Comparative Study Of Traditional Vs. Digital Methods Using Adobe Illustrator, Soha Rafek Ibrahim Afifi, Wafaa Abdel-Rady Qurashi, Bahira Gebaly Gabr

Journal of Art, Design and Music

The fashion industry is going through a major transformation with the advent of digital technologies. This study presents a comparison of the traditional and digital methods of making swimwear patterns using Adobe Illustrator. The study aims to identify the benefits and challenges of using Adobe Illustrator as a digital tool for patternmaking. The study compares traditional and digital methods’ efficiency, accuracy, and sustainability by studying and applying the basic principles of drafting swimwear patterns. The results show that digital methods using Adobe Illustrator can significantly reduce production time, increase pattern-making accuracy, and improve the sustainability of the production process. The …

Costuming The Californian Apocalypse: Sartorial Speculations Of Los Angeles's Future, Isabel Kramer

Scripps Senior Theses

With this project, I use fashion design as a medium to visually speculate a range of futures that exist in relation to different temporal apocalypses and dystopian world endings under the current capitalist structure. Three questions guided my thinking and creation of this project: What will people be wearing in 100 years in Los Angeles if we continue down our current path of late capitalism-induced climate change? How will this look differently for people who exist alongside different axes of oppression and who are affected by environmental racisms that manifest in the built environment of Los Angeles? How do dystopian …

Body. Freedom. Choice: Creating Artwork In Post-Roe America, Erin Sedra

MSU Graduate Theses

I knew from a young age that I never wanted children. Whenever I expressed my disinterest in motherhood, I was often met with bewilderment, disapproval, and hostility. The church I was raised in taught me that my value and worth as a woman directly correlated with the power of my birthing hips. This fundamentalist upbringing has significantly shaped my relationship with my femininity, my body, and my artwork. When I feel powerless, turning to my art gives me a sense of control and self-expression. This body of work began as a reaction to the overturning of Roe v. Wade and …

Energy Harvesting Face Mask Using A Thermoelectric Generator For Powering Wearable Health Monitoring Sensors, Ugur Erturun, Cansu Yalim, James E. West

Engineering Management & Systems Engineering Faculty Publications

A wearable energy harvester (EH) incorporating a face mask with a thermoelectric generator is demonstrated. The function of this device is to generate electrical power from the heat produced by the human body, particularly breath, with the specific aim of powering wearable sensor applications. A prototype was built using a commercially available N95 face mask, a thermoelectric generator, and a heatsink. The performance of this EH device was assessed using experimental and numerical methodologies. The experimentally tested power output of the prototype was found to be ≈100 µW, with a corresponding power density of ≈30 µW/cm3, for a temperature difference …

The Role Of Shopping Orientations And Intrinsic Experiential Value In Consumer's Willingness To Follow Embodied-Ai's Advice In Fashion Shoe Stores, Christina Soyoung Song, Ji Young Lee, Dooyoung Choi

STEMPS Faculty Publications

This study employs a synthesis of Intrinsic Motivation Theory with three shopping orientations, namely “adventure,” “idea,” and “personalized” shopping, in order to examine their potential influence on individuals' motivation towards shopping. We proposed that consumers’ experiential value of intrinsic enjoyment is an indispensable mediator that affects their willingness to follow EAI’s advice. The study offers novel insights into the way that consumers’ characteristics of influencing others’ clothing consumption affect their shopping motivations to find adventure and stimulation, keep up with new fashion trends and products information, and their preference to patronize stores and interact with store staff on a personal …

Ai-Designed Clothing And Perceived Values: What Can Move Consumers' Minds With The Ai-Designed Clothing?, Choi Dooyoung, Ha Kyung Lee

STEMPS Faculty Publications

This study investigates the perceived values of AI-designed clothing (quality, emotion, ease) and their impact on willingness to pay (WTP) and word-of-mouth (WOM), with the moderating effect of gender differences. A total of 314 respondents completed the survey via MTurk. Participants watched a video clip demonstrating how an AI system creates various clothing designs by altering garment elements (e.g., style, size). After watching the video clip, they were asked to answer a series of questions about the AI-designed clothing and themselves. The collected data were analyzed using AMOS 26.0. Results showed that, for male and female consumers, the quality value …

Will The Scarcity Of Ai-Designed Clothing Influence Consumers To Purchase?, Choi Dooyoung, Ha Kyung Lee

STEMPS Faculty Publications

This study explores how perceived scarcity of AI-designed clothing influences purchase intention, mediated by perceived monetary value. Fashion involvement's moderating role is also examined. Participants (N = 311), sourced from Amazon Mechanical Turk, watched an AI clothing design video, and evaluated a jacket that is designed by AI. Responses on perceived scarcity, monetary value, purchase intentions, and fashion involvement were collected using Likert scales. Analyzing data with SPSS 28.0 and the PROCESS Macro Model 8 with 5,000 bootstrap samples suggested that although the scarcity of an AI-designed clothing alone may not significantly increase purchase intentions, fashion brands can leverage the …

Assessment Of Instrument Exploring Underwear Preferences Of Incontinent Geriatric Women In Assisted Living, Cassandra M. Stewart

Graduate Theses, Dissertations, and Problem Reports

Urinary incontinence is a urologic condition commonly occurring in geriatric individuals and often results in disability. This affects not only physical functioning, but also psychological and emotional implications. Prior research focused on prevention and using smart technology to improve the current products available to help manage urinary incontinence. Little research has been completed to examine the preferences of geriatric individuals and assess what they are looking for in incontinence products. The purpose of the study was to create an instrument to assess the individual preferences of older adults for these products in a community living environment. Research questions included: (1) …

Exploring Hedonic And Utilitarian Aspects Through Perceived Warmth In Human-Designed Vs. Ai-Generated Fashion, Dooyoung Choi, Ha Kyung Lee

Educational Leadership & Workforce Development Faculty Publications

Among various ways in which artificial intelligence (AI) is used in the fashion industry, its utilization in design has sparked public discussion about the potential replacement of human designers by AI. Along with this critical question, it is imminent to examine how consumers would respond to designs by AI. The purpose of this study is to explore consumers’ perceptions toward a fashion product labeled as generated by an AI system, comparing it to the same product labeled as designed by a human designer. Specifically, drawing from existing literature, we examine if the design source affects consumers’ perceptions of a product …

Green Is The New Black: Exploring How A Philosophical Approach To The Fashion Industry Will Reduce Its Environmental Impact, Darion A. Gibbs

Student Theses and Dissertations

The fashion industry is the third largest contributor to pollution globally, behind only oil and agriculture. It also accounts for one-fifth of the plastic produced annually. Despite its impact, it is hard to trace accountability. For example, mega-retailers often outsource production to developing countries, without strong structures of accountability for their environmental impact. In addition, companies often claim to be environmentally sustainable, but it is easy to inflate the truth, and entities designed to protect consumers have limited enforcement. In this context, who should be held responsible for the fashion industry’s contribution to climate change?

In response, this thesis delves …

Marisa Kalil-Barrino Final Project, Marisa G. Kalil-Barrino

Capstones

Around the world, Black and Brown fashion designers are underrepresented in the media and fashion industry. Often, fast fashion companies like Shein, Zara, and H&M imitate or steal designs from Black and Brown designers who handcraft their clothes while factories mass produce them. Marisa Kalil-Barrino created 1202 Magazine, an arts and culture publication highlighting emerging artists, events, and concepts, especially her community, Black and Brown fashion designers.

Uprising, Issue 16 [Fall 2023], University Of Northern Iowa. Northern Iowa Student Government.

Uprising

Inside This Issue:

Letter from the Editors --- 5
Still Water in the Sink --- 8
Ripple Effect --- 10
Everyone Needs a Butch --- 16
On a Walk --- 18
How to be Your Own Gardner --- 20
In Limbo --- 22
Where is Home? --- 26
My Friend Claire --- 28
Dream Meanings --- 30
Brain, Heart, and Courage --- 32
Hide and Seek --- 36
phonographic memories --- 38
Funny Quotes --- 40
Bleeding/Performance Art --- 42
Sweet 16 --- 44
Social Atrophy --- 50
Sweetest Honeys --- 52
Church Hurt --- 54
Time Paradox --- 58 …