Arts and Humanities Commons^™

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 12:3 – Fall 2000

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Learning to Weave in Ghana by Emilia Karr
TSA Symposium 2000 Activities
Textile Study at UMass
Members Honored
Letter from the President
TSA News
Conference Reviews
Exhibition Reviews
New Members
Fellowships
Calls for Papers
Conferences
Exhibitions Calendar
Tours/Courses
Lectures/Workshops
Publications
Virtual Textiles
Membership Application
TSA Calendar

Influence Of Nitrogen Gas And Oxygen Scavengers On Fading And Color Change In Dyed Textiles, Judy J. Brott Buss, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

Unexpected and undesired color changes in paper materials following the use of anoxic treatments for killing insects that infest col­lections have been reported. This observation and attendant concerns prompted this research. This study examined the influence of a nitrogen gas purge and oxygen scavengers on color stability of dyed textiles in the presence and absence of light. Earlier studies showed that while most dyed tex­tiles exhibit less fading and color change when oxygen is removed from the atmosphere via a nitrogen purge, a small number of dyes exhibit greater amounts of fading and color change in the presence of a …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 12:1 – Spring 2000

Textile Society of America Newsletters

TSA Symposium 2000 Activities
Textile Study at Iowa State University
Collections News
Letter from the President
Calls for Papers
Exhibition Reviews
Conferences
Exhibitions
Lectures/Workshops
Tours/Courses; Publications
Membership Application
TSA Calendar

Review Of Islamische Textilkunst Des Mittelalters: Aktuelle Problemne, Edited By Karel Otavsky., Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Islamische Textilkunst des Mittelalters: Aktuelle Problemne. Edited by KAREL OTAVSKY. Riggisberger Berichte 5. Riggisberg, Switzerland: Abegg-Stiftung, 1997. Pp. 219 + 214 figs.

Focusing on textiles of Egypt and North Africa in the Fatimid period (A.D. 909-1171), this volume presents the edited proceedings of a scholarly conference on medieval Islamic textiles held at the Abegg-Stiftung in Riggisberg, Switzerland, 10-11 November 1995. Eighteen papers (published in English, French, or German) by fourteen authors are organized in three sections that deal with the functions, inscriptions, and weaving techniques, followed by a bibliography of references cited, a list of illustrations, and the authors' …

University-Wide Departmental Teaching Award, Department Of Textiles, Clothing, & Design, University Of Nebraska-Lincoln

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Department Information

This award is intended to recognize an academic department within the Universityof Nebraska for an outstanding record of accomplishment in its teaching program. The award carries a $25,000 grant to the department. It was created in 1992 to emphasize the importance of quality instruction throughout the university. The selection committee for the award is composed of senior faculty members representing all four campuses of the University of Nebraska. Criteria used in the selection process include: how the department uses incentives to encourage teaching excellence; faculty participation in professional conferences on instruction; research and publications by faculty members related to instructional …

Embodying Embroidery: Researching Women's Folk Art In Western India, Michele Hardy

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

South Asia is home to an incredibly rich variety of embroideries that include folk, courtly, ritual, and commercial traditions. The scholarly literature on South Asian embroidery has been meagre however and historically emphasized professional embroideries at the expense of the folk^l. With few recent exceptions² folk embroidery in the Sub-Continent has most often been described and classified without reference to the women who make it or the specific cultural traditions that support and give meaning to it³. These 'characterising' accounts of folk embroidery are likely the result of historic circumstance and ancient bias⁴ but …

Food For Thought, Daniel A. Siedell

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

The Sheldon Memorial Art Gallery and Sculpture Garden is pleased to present Food for Thought, the thirteenth annual Sheldon Statewide exhibition. Sheldon Statewide is a unique collaboration between the Sheldon Gallery, the Nebraska Art Association (a nonprofit volunteer membership organization dedicated to the advancement of the visual arts in Nebraska) and the efforts and cooperation of the many Nebraska communities that serve as exhibition venues. The mission of the Sheldon Gallery is the acquisition, exhibition, and interpretation of 19th-20th-century American art. Sheldon Gallery has achieved a national reputation for this collection. Each year twenty works from this collection are …

Judith Burton: Visual Nuances, Daniel A. Siedell

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

The history and development of the pictorial tradition in the West is punctuated by many formal and conceptual tensions, among them the tension between representation and abstraction, between mimesis and personal expression, between objectivity and subjectivity, between the artist and the viewer. The Sheldon Memorial Art Gallery and Sculpture Garden is pleased to present Judith Burton: Visual Nuances, a solo exhibition featuring twenty-four paintings and two monotypes by an important Nebraska artist whose aesthetic expression succeeds in celebrating these many tensions and formal subtleties that are such an important part of our visual arts tradition.

However, much attention-perhaps too …

Conrad Bakker: Art And Objecthood, Daniel A. Siedell

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

The Sheldon Memorial Art Gallery and Sculpture Garden is pleased to present Conrad Bakker: Art and Objecthood, an installation that engages many of the most important aesthetic and cultural issues in the contemporary artworld. This exhibition is part of a semesterlong focus at the Sheldon Art Gallery on the significance and influence of Marcel Duchamp, one of the most influential artists of the twentieth century. In addition to this exhibition, the permanent collection galleries of the Sheldon Art Gallery include Duchamp's famous Boite-en-Valise, an etching of his infamous Fountain, and the work of other artists, both historical and contemporary, who …

Trains That Passed In The Night, Thomas A. Garver

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

Winston Link was a young practitioner of an old photographic tradition, one still much used, but which now commands little public notice. He developed a strong personal style within the technique of using cameras that were usually fixed in place, mounted on heavy tripods and using large negatives, typically 4 x 5 inches in size. The dynamic qualities of photographs made this way came through their careful planning: the precise placement of the camera, and equally careful placement of the lighting sources, with people and objects also being arranged with an eye for the final effect. Photographs using this technique …

Black Image And Identity African-American Art From The Permanent Collection, Daniel A. Siedell

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

T he presentation of Robert Colescott's groundbreaking solo exhibition, which represented the American Pavilion at the 1997 Venice Biennale, offers a unique opportunity for the Sheldon Memorial Art Gallery and Sculpture Garden to display a selection of African-American art from its permanent collection. This exhibition, entitled Black Image and Identity, serves several important purposes. First, it locates Robert Colescott, one of the most important and influential African-American artists of the twentieth century, within the broader historical context of a dynamic and diverse African-American visual arts tradition. Second, it focuses attention on the important influence that Colescott has exerted on younger …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 12:1 – Winter 2000

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Santa Fe to Host TSA 2000 Symposium
TSA Calendar
TSA News
Letter from the President
Collections News
Member News
Exhibition/Conference Reviews
Conferences and Symposia
Exhibits
Lectures and Workshops
Publication Opportunities
Tours and Courses
Info Exchange

Japanese Kimono Fashion Of The Early Twentieth Century, Annie Van Asche

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper examines the development of popular kimono fashion from the late 19th century through the mid-20th century. I focus on kimono worn by modem-thinking young women whose wardrobes, by the 1920's, included both new Western and recreated Japanese garments and accessories. The meisen kasuri kimono, the most popular new style of kimono among women living in the growing urban metropolitan centers, is highlighted. It covers an unprecedented historical period of rapid modernization and Westernization of Japan, which brought about societal changes that dramatically--and positively--transformed the lives of Japanese women. I begin with a historical sketch of the industrialization of …

Textiles, Scholarship, And Art Education: An Art College Perspective, Wendy Landry

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In many communities the art college is the last formal refuge of active textile-making knowledge and heritage. This location appears to value playful, risky, or challenging material explorations which might result in creative design or meaningful visual expression. This should be the best environment for cultivating adventurous students able to integrate a wide range of experience and resources towards generating new ideas for interesting contemporary textiles. It could be a good place in which to discover how textiles contribute to human experience and history, and how they are meaningful. However, I submit that this art environment is still detrimental to …

"Gabba" In Encyclopædia Iranica, Jean-Pierre Digard, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

GABBA (gava in Kurdish and Lori, Īzadpanāh, s.v.; ḵersak in Baḵtīārī, Digard, pp. 128-31), a hand-woven pile rug of coarse quality and medium size (90 x 150 cm or larger) characterized by an abstract design that relies upon open fields of color and a playfulness with geometry. This kind of rug is common among the tribes of the Zagros (Kurdish, Lori-speaking ethnic groups, Qašqāʾīs). The first known reference to gabba is found in a farmān by Shah Ṭahmāsp (r. 930-84/1524-76) dating to the middle of the 16th century (Opie, 1992, p. 124). Gabbas were said to have originated in …

Choices And Constraints: Pattern Formation In Oriental Carpets, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Patterns in nature result from dynamic relationships of forces and constraints. What is analogous for patterns in art? Art is created by human hands motivated by inspiration and thought. It is the product of creativity and skill. Creativity is constrained by cognitive processes and skill by the limits of technology. Based upon the author’s studies of Oriental carpets, this paper suggests that patterns in art result from dynamic relationships of choices and constraints. Typically, traditional Oriental carpets from historical rug-weaving regions of the world exhibit a multiplicity of patterns—field patterns and border patterns that express a vast array of designs …

Circles And Centers: A Review Article, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Review of: Geometric Patterns from Islamic Art & Architecture, by Robert Field. Tarquin Publications, Norfolk, UK, c1998. AND "The Nature of Islamic Ornament, Part III: Geometric Patterns," exhibition on view March 17-July 18, 1999 in the Hagop Kevorkian Fund Special Exhibitions Gallery at The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Circles of equal radius, when tight-packed, naturally combine in two ways. One method yields centers that form a triangular grid; the other method yields centers that form a square grid. These basic mathematical considerations underlie the play of pattern in Islamic art. By selecting centers in a triangular grid, one may establish …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 21 (2000), Virginia Gunn, Laurel Horton, Xenia E. Cord, Phyllis S. Herda, Ethel Ewert Abrahams, Rachel K. Pannabecker, Susan Price Miller, Lisa Gabbert, Marsha Macdowell

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Virginia Gunn

Research Papers

An "Old-Fashioned Quilting" in 1910 by Laurel Horton

Textiles and Cooperative Commerce in Colonial America: The Example of William McCormick by Xenia E. Cord

Creating a New Tradition: Quilting in Tonga by Phyllis S. Herda

"Better Choose Me": Addictions to Tobacco, Collecting, and Quilting, 1880-1920 by Ethel Ewert Abrahams and Rachel K. Pannabecker

Hubert Ver Mehren and Home Art Studios by Susan Price Miller

"Petting the Fabric": Medium and the Creative Process by Lisa Gabbert

Quilts and Their Stories: Revealing a Hidden History by Marsha MacDowell

Authors and editor

In memoriam: Bill Charles Garoutte …