Open Access. Powered by Scholars. Published by Universities.®
Articles 1 - 27 of 27
Full-Text Articles in Entire DC Network
Alpina: A Semiannual Review Of Mountaineering In The Greater Ranges
Alpina: A Semiannual Review Of Mountaineering In The Greater Ranges
Appalachia
Among the many updates on mountaineering in the greater ranges in summer and fall 2023: Samson Zebturiah Barner is arrested near Smith Rock in central Oregon for taking several weapons to a climbing event. Three climbers open a new route on Pik Alpinist in Kyrgyzstan. A brief review of the New York Times article on the discovery of Janet Johnson’s camera on Aconcagua 50 years after she and John Cooper died there. On Everest, 3,600 climbers attempted the peak in 2023; eighteen died, 100 years after the biggest Everest mystery of all: the disappearance of Mallory and Irvine. Three Americans …
Alpina
Appalachia
Among the many updates on mountaineering in the greater ranges in late 2022 and early 2023 is a report of a record 479 permits issued for Mount Everest in spring 2023; seventeen died. In May 2023, climbers establish a new route on India’s Meru. Updates on Kristin Harila’s record time of completing all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in 2023. Three climbers establish a new route, Technicolour Superdream, on Alaska’s Mount Huntington. A new route on the East Face of Mount Dickey. German Jost Kobusch tackles a hard route up Denali. A new route by Czechs up Suru Peak in Nepal. An …
Alpina: A Semiannual Review Of Mountaineering In The Greater Ranges
Alpina: A Semiannual Review Of Mountaineering In The Greater Ranges
Appalachia
Among the many updates on mountaineering in the greater ranges is a report of Griffin Post’s discovery of a 1937 equipment cache left by Bradford Washburn and Robert Bates in the St. Elias Mountains. Hordes of climbers, and garbage, land on K2. An all-Black party, the Full Circle Everest Expedition, climbs the world’s highest peak. Colin Haley makes the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Cerro Fitz Roy in Patagonia. Climber Ed Webster is memorialized.
Alpina
Appalachia
Among the many updates on mountaineering in the greater ranges: More information on a Denali climber who in May 2021 called for a rescue he did not need. Clint Helander and Andres Marin climb Shaft of the Abyss on Golgotha in Alaska. Among many “firsts” on Everest in 2022, Lucy Westlake, 18, becomes the youngest American woman to summit. Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbs a new route on the North Face of Polar Sun Arm on Baffin Island. Three climbers achieve a new route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia. Reviews of eight mountaineering films, including Infinite Storm (Bleecker Street …
Alpina
Appalachia
Climber Barry Blanchard suffers a head injury on some stairs in Saskatchewan. French climbers summit Sani Pakkush. British alpinists make it up the North Pillar of Tengkangpoche. In memoriam, Rick Allen (1954-2021). Mingma Gyalje Sherpa leads climbers to the true summit of Manaslu. A climber calls for a rescue on Denali, lying about his condition. Climbers are robbed at a base camp in the Caucasus. Ukrainian climbers summit Annapurna III.
Alpina
Appalachia
Four climbers died attempting K2 in February 2021. An attempt on the North Pillar of Tengkangpoche. Everest opened up after the pandemic—partially. Brief appreciation of two climbers (Edward Norton and T. H. Somervell) who attempted Everest in 1924 just before George Mallory and Sandy Irvine. A remarkable traverse of Fitz Roy. Near Denali, the Muldrow Glacier surges for the first time in many years
Alpina
Appalachia
The 2013 pre-monsoon season in the Nepal Himalaya included first ascents of Jagdula, Dragmorpa Ri, and others, and a record number of deaths on several peaks, including eight on Everest. Briton Kenton Cool and Sherpa Dorje Gyalzen traversed three peaks in the Everest group. Sixteen Nepalese died in the Khumbu Icefall below Everest on April 18, 2014.
Alpina
Appalachia
Denali’s 2014 season: 1,204 attempted the highest peak in North America in 2014. Six out of twelve who tried Mount Foraker reached the top. In the Nepal Himalaya’s post-monsoon 2013 season, 180 expeditions attempted 35 mountains; 260 team members summited with the aid of 185 hired supporters. An avalanche on Manaslu killed eleven. Five died: two on Baruntse and three on Himlung. Swiss climber Ueli Steck pioneered a new south-face route on Annapurna; two French climbers followed a few weeks later and were evacuated afterwards. In pre-monsoon 2014, an April 18 avalanche on Mount Everest killed sixteen Nepalese, mostly ethnic …
Alpina
Appalachia
Jeffery Parrette writes of events in 2014 and 2015 in the Nepal Himalaya, with end notes listing numerous sources. The essay covers the 2014 cyclone Hudhud; Everest climbers in spring 2015; the April 25, 2015 earthquake in the Everest region; earlier earthquakes in Nepal; a comparison of the 1934 and 2015 earthquakes; and how the 2015 earthquake affected Nepal and its mountaineering and trekking.
Alpina
Appalachia
Jeffery Parrette, the longtime editor of this section, retired in winter 2016. During the transition to a new editor of this section, Steven Jervis gives a report on Denali.
Alpina
Appalachia
Nepal struggles to rebuild after the 2015 earthquake. Everest summiters numbered 456 in spring 2016. Three climbers make the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Reflections on Tommy Caldwell, Keith Jorgeson, and Alex Honnold’s climbing in Yosemite. In Patagonia, Honnold and Colin Haley attempt the Torre Traverse and then climb it in reverse. In Memoriam: Nick Clinch. Jeffery Parrette resigns as Appalachia's Alpina editor after 29 years, and four who worked with him write tributes.
Alpina
Appalachia
A quick summary of new routes on big mountains. Six climbers died and two lied about their summit success in spring 2016 on Everest. The first woman to ascend Everest (in 1970), Junko Tabei, has died of cancer. A British pair ascended the formerly unclimbed Gave Ding in 2015. Americans Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson died attempting Pakistan’s Ogre I and Ogre II. Colin Haley climbed Mount Foraker solo. A solo climb of Mount Robson in Canada. New records on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. Accidents and deaths mar the 2016 season in the Tetons. Michael Levy profiles Ken …
Alpina
Appalachia
The review of mountaineering in the greater ranges includes: a winter ascent of K2. A new measurement of Mount Everest. Hard climbs in Pakistan. Two climbers ascend Mount Roraima in Guyana. Jeff and Priti Wright ascend K6 Central and K6 West. Nepal’s economy struggles during the pandemic. Emily Harrington free-climbs the Golden Gate route on El Capitan. In memoriam: Ang Rita Sherpa, Doug Scott, Hamish MacInnes, George Whitmore, and Cesare Maestri.
Alpina
Appalachia
Teams fail to climb K2 in winter 2017. American climber Conrad Anker suffers a heart attack on Lunag-Ri. Everest’s spring 2017 season brings 373 permitted climbers, including two women who make records: Uto Ibrahimi becomes the first woman from Albania to summit, and Tsang Yin Hung of Hong Kong sets a female speed record. Ueli Steck dies in a fall on Nuptse. In Memoriam: Royal Robbins, by Michael Wejchert. And more.
Alpina
Appalachia
The strange science of grading climbs is explained. Tributes to the late Norman Dyhrenfurth and Fred Beckey. After an avalanche in Montana kills young skier Inge Perkins, her surviving companion Hayden Kennedy ends his life. Female Sherpas and several women climbers achieve many feats in the Nepal Himalaya. Journalist and Himalayan Database creator Elizabeth Hawley dies.
Alpina
Appalachia
Climbers on Everest in 2018 verified that the rock formation called the Hillary Step is gone. Trash mars the world’s highest peak. A Polish team tried K2 in winter. Denali institutes a new human waste policy. Tribute to Jim "The Bird" Bridwell. Steven Jervis’s tribute to Leif-Norman Patterson.
Alpina
Appalachia
Climbs in 2017 include the South Ridge of Mount Huntington in Alaska, Cerro Kishtwar in India, Rungofarka in Kashmir, and more. Tributes to the late Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe. Discussion of films released in 2018 of the free climbs of Yosemite’s El Capitan.
Alpina
Appalachia
A 10-year-old climbs the Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in June 2019. A dog summits Baruntse in Nepal in November 2018. Everest’s buy 2019 season. Eight die on Nanda Devi. Climbers fail to summit K2 in winter. Fitz Roy is free-soloed. American Jess Roskelley and Austrians David Lama and Hansjorg Auer die on Howe Peak.
Alpina
Appalachia
Nirmal Purja of Nepal climbs all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in under seven months. Climate change alters routes in the Alps. David Lama summits Lunag Ri in October 2018 but dies in Canada six months later. And more.
Alpina
Appalachia
Tributes to Joe Brown, Dee Molenaar, John Evans, and Mark Powell. Most climbing in the greater ranges halts in early 2020. Reports of climbs and attempted climbs on Ama Dablam, Everest, and in Patagonia.