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"With The Commodity In The Hand": A Practical Investigation Of The Intersection Of Material Culture With Performance Theory, Katharine M. Given 2021 Virginia Commonwealth University

"With The Commodity In The Hand": A Practical Investigation Of The Intersection Of Material Culture With Performance Theory, Katharine M. Given

Theses and Dissertations

This thesis examines the intersection of performance theory and material culture through the practices of garment reconstruction. In chapter 1, I examine key theorists in the fields of material culture and performance studies and articulate the connections between the two fields. In chapter 2, Using practice as research, I recount the experience of building reproduction garments from the eighteenth century using historically appropriate tools and methods, as well as the experience of wearing those garments. Finally, in Chapter 3, I walk through a possible historical examination of my encounter with these reconstructed garments, and consider the way in which feminine …


Ties That Bind Us, Christine M. Orr, Christine M. Orr 2021 Virginia Commonwealth University

Ties That Bind Us, Christine M. Orr, Christine M. Orr

Theses and Dissertations

when objects converge in a space

they start a dialogue of their lives

lives that become entangled with your life

your memory

objects are the narrators of memory

a stain, a chip, a tear

materials embed meaning and metaphor within the process of creating

woven cloth, throwing lines, squeezed and pressed coils

all become remnants of the hand

as I make, play, and collect materials and objects

questions are brought forward

How do these components talk to one other?

What are they saying?

How do I listen?

knowledge is generated in the transformation of material through the process of

making …


Rift, Repair, And Resolution, Dayna E. Patterson 2020 Western Washington University

Rift, Repair, And Resolution, Dayna E. Patterson

The STEAM Journal

"Rift," "Repair," and "Resolution" is an embroidered triptych that reflects socio-political disharmony and manifests a hopeful trajectory for healing and wholeness.


Utilizing Repurposed Denim To Create Apparel For Those With Cerebral Palsy, Monique Rodriguez 2020 University of Arkansas, Fayetteville

Utilizing Repurposed Denim To Create Apparel For Those With Cerebral Palsy, Monique Rodriguez

Apparel Merchandising and Product Development Undergraduate Honors Theses

Cerebral Palsy (CP) is the most common motor disability in children. In the U.S alone one million children and adults live with a diagnosis of cerebral palsy. Due to the increasing life expectancy of individuals with CP, the number of adults with this disorder is increasing, thus their medical and social care needs are changing (Moreno-De-Luca et al., 2012). For years children and adults who live with CP struggle in finding clothing that works for them and their needs. Currently the market for adaptable clothing is small. For people with CP, the lack of adaptive clothing creates large barriers whether …


Perceiving Mathematics And Art, Edmund Harriss 2020 University of Arkansas, Fayetteville

Perceiving Mathematics And Art, Edmund Harriss

Mic Lectures

Mathematics and art provide powerful lenses to perceive and understand the world, part of an ancient tradition whether it starts in the South Pacific with tapa cloth and wave maps for navigation or in Iceland with knitting patterns and sunstones. Edmund Harriss, an artist and assistant clinical professor of mathematics in the Fulbright College of Arts and Sciences, explores these connections in his Honors College Mic lecture.


(Review) A Memorial To Those Who Mourn: Marie Watt’S Untitled (Mother, Mother) And Correlating Sewing Circle, Angie Rizzo 2020 University of New Mexico

(Review) A Memorial To Those Who Mourn: Marie Watt’S Untitled (Mother, Mother) And Correlating Sewing Circle, Angie Rizzo

Hemisphere: Visual Cultures of the Americas

No abstract provided.


Editor’S Note, Stephen Wolgast 2020 University of Kansas Main Campus

Editor’S Note, Stephen Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The novel coronavirus and COVID-19 are dramatically changing campus life. Most graduation ceremonies have been cancelled, leaving many thousands of academic gowns unused. The organisation Gowns 4 Good requests donations of gowns, which it donates to hospitals so their medical staffs can use them as personal protective equipment, which is in short supply.


Reforms To Scottish Academical Dress During The 1860s, Jonathan C. Cooper 2020 Kansas State University Libraries

Reforms To Scottish Academical Dress During The 1860s, Jonathan C. Cooper

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Although hoods were worn in the ancient Scottish universities during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, their use went into decline thereafter. This article focusses on the re-introduction of hoods in Scotland, mostly during the 1860s. After consideration of the academical dress in use earlier during the nineteenth century, the four ancient universities are treated in the order in which they adopted comprehensive hood schemes. Primary sources, in the form of university minutes and portraits, and secondary sources, mostly in the form of contemporary accounts, are examined.


Front Matter, Editorial Board 2020 Kansas State University Libraries

Front Matter, Editorial Board

Transactions of the Burgon Society

No abstract provided.


’Blithering Nonsense’: The Open University And Its Academic Dress, Philip Goff 2020 Kansas State University Libraries

’Blithering Nonsense’: The Open University And Its Academic Dress, Philip Goff

Transactions of the Burgon Society

With the largest number of students in Britain, one of its younger academic institutions celebrates fiftieth anniversary.


An Overview Of The History Of The Academic Dress Of The University Of Exeter, David C. Quy 2020 Kansas State University Libraries

An Overview Of The History Of The Academic Dress Of The University Of Exeter, David C. Quy

Transactions of the Burgon Society

University-level education in Exeter can be said to begin in 1922 when the Royal Albert Memorial College was recast as the University College of the South West of England. In 1955, a first reference to academic dress was made.


Lumen Ex Oriente: Academic Dress Of The University Of Hong Kong, 1911–1941, Alexander Yen 2020 Kansas State University Libraries

Lumen Ex Oriente: Academic Dress Of The University Of Hong Kong, 1911–1941, Alexander Yen

Transactions of the Burgon Society

A narrative of the development of the University of Hong Kong’s academic dress for officials and graduates from its founding in 1911 to the cessation of formal operations in 1941 with the Second World War. The article includes descriptions of the appearance of various items of academic dress at the University in this formative period.


Development Of Academic Dress In Kingston University: A University For The Twenty-First Century, Alice Hynes 2020 Kansas State University Libraries

Development Of Academic Dress In Kingston University: A University For The Twenty-First Century, Alice Hynes

Transactions of the Burgon Society

When the author was the Academic Registrar at Kingston Polytechnic in the 1990s, she worked on its transition from Polytechnic to University and as such was involved in the decision-making and practical implementation of the first academic dress of the University. This study describes the rationale for the academic dress and seeks to check how far the initial expectations have been fulfilled twenty-five years on from the original decisions.


A Brief History Of Academic Dress In The Middle East And The Maghreb, Valentina S. Grub 2020 Kansas State University Libraries

A Brief History Of Academic Dress In The Middle East And The Maghreb, Valentina S. Grub

Transactions of the Burgon Society

There are hundreds of universities in the Middle East and the Maghreb, yet the academic dress that they wear, if any, varies widely. Colour standards for hoods are non-existent, and gown shapes vary among British, American, and European shapes, sometimes incorporating elements of each into a single gown, and elaborated with local cultural details. This article examines the current, fluid state of academic dress in the region, where it is not indigenous and is one element of the after-effects of the imposed colonial educational systems.


Jenkins, Martha Ann (Combs) - Collector (Fa 1376), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives 2020 Western Kentucky University

Jenkins, Martha Ann (Combs) - Collector (Fa 1376), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1376. Weaving projects, chiefly for place mats, created by students in the Consumer and Family Sciences program at WKU. The projects usually include notes on materials and methodology, sketches, instructions, and a weaving sample.


Scandal And Imprisonment: Gold Spinners Of 17th Century England, Tricia Wilson Nguyen 2020 Thistle Threads

Scandal And Imprisonment: Gold Spinners Of 17th Century England, Tricia Wilson Nguyen

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

When looking at seventeenth-century silk- and gold-embroidered jackets or heavily wrought cabinets, most people focus on the embroiderer’s skill. Instead, my interest rests with the makers of the thread used to create such luxuries—silk thread, gold thread, and silver thread. Perhaps surprisingly, many early thread makers were women, owners, and managers of home-based industries in which spinning gold and silver was their business and livelihood.

Unfortunately, the history of gold spinning in seventeenth-century England is one of “scandal and imprisonment,” with women’s prominent role neglected by history. Beginning in the 1620s, women gold spinners were thrown in jail for refusing …


Kenyan Basketry (Ciondo) By Women From Central And Eastern Kenya, Mercy Wanduara 2020 Kenyatta University, Kenya

Kenyan Basketry (Ciondo) By Women From Central And Eastern Kenya, Mercy Wanduara

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The Kenyan baskets commonly known as kiondo/kyondo (s)/ciondo (p) are made by women in different parts of Kenya mainly as utilitarian items for carrying goods around. The baskets are made using traditional/indigenous fibers that are readily available near where people live. The fibers may be from plant stems of shrubs, barks of trees, or banana fibers. The fibers are manually harvested, processed (spun), dyed, and woven into baskets. Dye stuffs are produced locally from natural sources such as mud (brown), leaves from specific plants (green), tree barks (red and brown), and charcoal (black), among other sources. Even though basketry is …


A Tale Of Two Sisters: Invisibility, Marginalization And Renown In A 20th Century Textile Arts Revitalization Movement In New Mexico, Suzanne P. MacAulay 2020 University of Colorado at Colorado Springs

A Tale Of Two Sisters: Invisibility, Marginalization And Renown In A 20th Century Textile Arts Revitalization Movement In New Mexico, Suzanne P. Macaulay

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

While this presentation does not address oppression in the global textile industry and injustices to leagues of anonymous enslaved women workers, it does raise questions about the vicissitudes of fame and obscurity of two women relative to artistic creation and textile arts revitalization efforts. This is the story of two Varos sisters, who married two Graves brothers, and lived in Carson, New Mexico. In the early 1930s Frances and Sophie Graves with their extended families repaired Spanish colonial textiles for the Santa Fe market. At some point they began to recreate traditional Spanish colonial-type colcha embroideries from recycled materials salvaged …


Hidden Stories/Human Lives: Proceedings Of The Textile Society Of America 17th Biennial Symposium, October 15-17, 2020--Full Program With Abstracts & Bios, 2020 University of Nebraska - Lincoln

Hidden Stories/Human Lives: Proceedings Of The Textile Society Of America 17th Biennial Symposium, October 15-17, 2020--Full Program With Abstracts & Bios

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The theme Hidden Stories/Human Lives presents opportunities to reveal complex and hidden stories of global textile making and coincides with the 100th anniversary of the 19th Amendment to the United States Constitution. Yet, just as the voices of women of color, marginalized by the suffrage movement, are only now being recognized, the stories of the many human lives that have contributed—directly and indirectly—to textile making, including enslaved people, immigrant entrepreneurs, and industrial laborers, remain untold. With this symposium, we hope to get “behind the curtain” to explore the wider human network engaged in textile production, bringing to light hidden stories …


Signed In Silk And Silver: Examining An Eighteenth-Century Torah Ark Curtain And Its Maker, Genevieve Cortinovis, Miriam Murphy 2020 Saint Louis Art Museum

Signed In Silk And Silver: Examining An Eighteenth-Century Torah Ark Curtain And Its Maker, Genevieve Cortinovis, Miriam Murphy

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Around 1755, Simhah Viterbo (c. 1739-1779) completed a luxurious Torah ark curtain, or parokhet, in Ancona, an important port city on Italy’s Adriatic coast. The base fabric, a bright blue silk satin, is appliqued with gold and silver guipure embroidery, vellum sections covered with metal-wrapped threads, spiral wound wires, and flattened strips of metal. Paillettes punctuate the Hebrew inscription, which runs across the curtain’s lower edge. The central grotesque composition, a series of stacked, diapered cartouches in the vein of Daniel Marot (1661-1752), fans out towards the enclosed borders. Florist flowers—blousy carnations, roses, and campanula—delicately embroidered in blush-colored silk threads, …


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