Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons^™

A Fragmented Treasure On Display: The Turfan Textile Collection And The Humboldt Forum, Mariachiara Gasparini

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In the summer 2012, thanks to the Department of Central Asian Art of the museum and the International Dunhuang Project (IDP) at the British Library in London, UK, the so-called Turfan textile collection--gathered during the last century Prussian Turfan Royal Expeditions in the Tarim Basin--held in the Museum of Asian Art in Berlin, Germany, was finally microscopically analyzed and digitized. Except for a couple of pieces taken into account in previous studies as examples of comparison, the collection as a whole (ca. 350 pieces) has not enjoyed particular attention from scholars in the fields of Chinese or Central Asian art …

Evolution Of Fashion: Clothing Of Upper Class American Women From 1865 To 1920, Lacey Johnson

Honors Theses

Changing economic, political and social pressures throughout history have impacted the way human beings live their daily lives. One of the many basic areas affected by these historical changes is the area of the wardrobe. The way a person dresses has traditionally shown his or her social status, occupation, and even political views. Political and social pressure particularly influence the clothing styles favored by women. In what way, however, does the average wardrobe reflect the cultural considerations of the time, and what can the prevailing fashions of bygone eras reveal about the pressures of those days? Specifically, what do the …

Dr. Who?: The Science And Culture Of Medical Wear Design, Patricia Duignan

Theses and Dissertations

The multi-million-dollar medical uniform industry has not utilized advancements in garment and textile technology that could positively impact the protection of healthcare professionals and patients. In most cases the uniforms meet basic requirements – they clothe the professional in a recognizable way. Little innovation in design, function and performance, has been applied to these garments. This is particularly evident in the case of the stereotypical white lab coat worn by many physicians, despite evidence indicating that these lab coats may carry contamination and play a role in the spread of deadly bacteria. Healthcare Associated Infections (HAIs) are among the most …

A Thematic Analysis Of The Material Culture Of Artwork Using Knit As An Artistic Medium, Rebecca Elaine Schuiling

Master's Theses and Doctoral Dissertations

This study provides insight and understanding into the artists who use knit as a medium to create art. In a historical context, knitting has had very specific purposes. Gradually, knits and knitting played an important role in a political sense at various points in history. Handcrafts in general surface as the focal point in several art movements. Knitting was included in only scant amounts within these art movements. The reasons for this are explored and illuminated in this thesis. I provide specific examples of contemporary artists who utilize knit materials as a medium, focusing on four pieces of artwork: City …

The Challenges Of Textile And Manufacturing Industries In Kano Metropolis, Ahmed Audu Maiyaki

Business Review

Industrialization is the engine of growth in any economy because it plays an important role in the provision of employment, foreign exchange earnings and general well being of a society. However, industrial growth is moving at a very slow rate in Nigeria and particularly in Kano state. This paper aims at unveiling the causes for poor performance of textile industry in Kano Nigeria In this study two textile companies were purposively chosen to represent both the functioning and non-function textile companies. To this end, structured and unstructured interviews and also practical observation were used to collect the data. It was …

Transnational Ikat: An Asian Textile On The Move, Susan Rogers, Hana Carey, Patricia Giglio, Martha Walters

Exhibit Catalogs

Ikat is a ‘textile on the move’ today: moving across borders from Southeast Asia to different parts of the world, moving from ritual use to American fashion wear and other marketplace forms, moving from Asian villages to international museum and art collecting circuits.

Over 40 of these remarkable textiles, both in their deeply ceremonial forms and in their vibrantly commercialized versions, were displayed for exhibition in the Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Art Gallery at the College of the Holy Cross. The exhibition focuses on ikats from eastern Indonesia, Sumatra, Sulawesi, and Malaysia’s Sarawak state.

Curator Susan Rodgers (anthropology, Holy …

Interweaving Media, Chris Quirk, Risd Xyz

RISD XYZ Fall/Winter 2013: Out of Bounds

Five artists working in wood, glass, clay, metal and fiber collaborate with Pollack’s design team to create a new line of fabrics. Pollack, the NYC textile design firm founded by Mark Pollack 76 TX, embarked on a two-year project with Rachel Doriss 99 TX, to collaborate with five artists and designers working in different media. The goal? To create a line of newly released fabrics—called simply The Makers Collection.

In the end, Pollack selected knit designer Liz Collins 91 TX/ MFA 99 TX in Brooklyn, ceramicist Nathan Craven MFA 08 CR in Roswell, NM, glass artist Katherine …

Gathering, Buying, And Growing Sweetgrass (Muhlenbergia Sericea): Urbanization And Social Networking In The Sweetgrass Basket-Making Industry Of Lowcountry South Carolina, Patrick T. Hurley, Brian Grabbatin, Cari Goetcheus, Angela Halfacre

Environmental Studies Faculty Publications

Despite the visibility of natural resource use and access for indigenous and rural peoples elsewhere, less attention is paid to the ways that development patterns interrupt nontimber forest products (NTFPs) and gathering practices by people living in urbanizing landscapes of the United States. Using a case study from Lowcountry South Carolina, we examine how urbanization has altered the political-ecological relationships that characterize gathering practices in greater Mt. Pleasant, a rapidly urbanizing area within the Charleston-North Charleston Metropolitan area. We draw on grounded visualization—an analytical method that integrates qualitative and Geographic Information Systems (GIS) data—to examine the ways that residential and …

Samplers, Sewing And Star Quilts: Changing Federal Policies Impact Native American Education And Assimilation, Lynne Anderson

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Illustrating the U.S. federal government's changing policies on the assimilation of Native American children is the role of needlework instruction in the schooling of Indian girls. Described and discussed are three examples of 19th and 20th century policy, with emphasis on the textiles resulting from those policies. Early 19th century policy supported mission schools for Indians. Learning to sew was a valued domestic skill in 19th century female education, culminating in the making of a needlework sampler. This focus was adopted in mission schools, illustrated by Christeen Baker's 1830 sampler stitched at the Choctaw Mission School in Mayhew, Mississippi. Shortly …

The Parenthetical Notation Method For Recording Yarn Structure, Jeffrey C. Splitstoser

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Until now, describing yarn structure has been more art than science, especially for complex yarns and cordage like those encountered at Cerrillos, a Paracas (ca. 900-100 B.C.E.) site in the Ica Valley of Peru, where yarns and cordage frequently involve multiple colors, sub-structures, and materials (e.g., Image 1). My early attempts at describing yarn structures using notation were essentially undecipherable to others. Likewise, narrative methods proved too wordy and no less confusing. (For instance, a narrative description of the structure of specimen 2001-L185-B1654- S001, a rope-like yarn pictured in Images 2 and 3, would be: Twelve Z-spun-singly-ply yarns Ztwisted with …

English King And German Commoner: An Exploration Of Sixteenth Century Clothing And Identity, Bradley Dale Moore

Graduate Theses and Dissertations

This paper will explore the connections of clothing and identity in the sixteenth century. The fit and construction of clothing can be directly related to how a person is perceived, or indeed, how one perceives one's self. Henry VIII (1491-1547) of England will be compared and contrasted with Matthäus Schwarz (1496-1574), a commoner from Augsburg, Germany. Tudor will represent how identity can be created for others, particularly through legislation and courtly life; while Schwarz' own words will assist in the exploration of the identity of the individual.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 24:2 — Spring 2012, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Textiles and Politics: Textile Society of America 13th Biennial Symposium, September 19-22, 2012, Washington, DC
From the President
TSA Member News
Textiles and Cultural Context: Ecuadorian Artesanía Vendors and Transnational Markets
The Mola: Imagery of Culture and Politics
Taiwan Aboriginal Textiles: Translations and Transformations: Background of Yushan Tsai's Exhibition
Book Reviews
Textile Community News
Featured Collection: Denver Art Museum Textile Art Department Expansion
Call for Papers
Calendar: Conferences & Symposia
Exhibitions: United States
Exhibitions: International
Lectures, Workshops, Tours

Handicraft Revolution: Ukrainian Avant-Garde Embroidery And Meaning Of History, Alla Myzelev

Art History faculty/staff works

No abstract provided.

Tradition And Humour: The Academic Dress Of The University Of Glasgow, Neil K. Dickson

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The University of Glasgow was founded in 1451. It is the second oldest university in Scotland and the fourth oldest in the UK (after Oxford, Cambridge and St Andrews). By the end of the sixteenth century Scotland had five universities, compared with England’s two. This situation continued for more than two hundred years: it was only in the nineteenth century that England finally caught up with Scotland. So perhaps one might expect that Scotland would have a long, continuous and colourful history of academic dress. However, as we shall see, that is not the case. The reason can be expressed …

Pencil Pushed: Exploring Process And Boundaries In Drawing (Exhibition Catalogue), Sam Yates, Creighton Michael, Barbara Macadam

Ewing Gallery of Art & Architecture

In Pencil Pushed, the word pencil functions simply as a metaphor or symbol for drawing and its activity. The selected artists are known for their drawing or drawing activity as their primary means of expression and have either pushed the material, process, or boundary of conventional drawing. Media included video, sculpture, animation, installation, and of course, works on paper. This exhibition is neither a survey nor the definitive grouping of mark-making artists. It is more a conversation about artists who have and continue to explore these regions in drawing.

Featured artists in Pencil Pushed are: William Anastasi, William Pittman Andrews, …

Crafts Of Color: Tupi Tapirage In Early Colonial Brazil, Amy Buono

Art Faculty Books and Book Chapters

"Tyrian purple. Lamp black. Lead white. Cadmium yellow. Ultramarine blue. The materiality of color, as it is often discussed, has a fixed quality. Pigments and dyes derived from many natural substances-minerals, earths, plants, and animals-have stable optic qualities. Lapis lazuli can be reliably counted upon to be blue. Dyes made from cochineal consistently fall within a certain range at the red end of the spectrum. Similarly, we might expect that the green feathers of a bird such as the Festive Parrot (Amazona festiva), after molting, would be replaced by equally green plumes. As the excerpt above suggests, from …

A Selection Of Artists' Books From Murray Library's Special Collections, Murray Library

Friends of Murray Library

Visually exciting and intellectually provocative, artists' books push to the outermost limits our assumed definition of what a book is, and turn the practice of reading into a novel experience. Simply defined, artists' books are a hybrid art form in which books and art intersect. Many of the over 100 artists' books in Murray Library's collection are the work of well-known book artists, including works by Messiah College art faculty. Friends funds new acquisitions to the collection each year, enhancing its use as an interdisciplinary teaching resource.

Wearing My Heart On My Sleeve, Sam Hunter

Masters Theses, 2010-2019

Wearing My Heart On My Sleeve is a collection of fabric and fiber works that focus on issues related to my recovery from a heart attack. Using the hospital gown and other garment forms as templates for self-portraiture, I explore the emotions surrounding the diagnosis and subsequent management of my chronic health condition. My art-making process combines tradition and technology, using modern, high-speed sewing machines and computers to create the fabric for contemporary interpretations of traditional garment and needlecraft forms. I am also concerned with the use of language and words as critical design elements for the fabrics I create. …